Tubalcain shows how to indicate (sweep) a hole on the Milling Machine prior to boring. part 2 will deal with enlarging the hole with a boring head. part 3 will cover drilling a bolt circle.
Thank you sir. I'm in school for machining, and we're dialing in lots of round parts in the mill lately, I have always struggled with that and my teacher was no help at all except for discouraging words. Seeing it done really makes a difference, and the way you did it made sense. Thank you!
Basic machining demonstrations like this are really helpful to people like me, who are not machinsts, have a simple mill, and need to learn the basics of setup, centering, boring and so on. Thank you!
thanks for the video, im in a machining class that i just started and we started indicating yesterday on the lathe and today on the mill, was a bit confusing today at school and this went a long way with me, thanks again, older machinists like yourself are precious in this world...
I haven't found a video of yours that wasn't either useful in the case of machining or interesting in the case of antique equipment. Thank you for all you do. These videos are a fantastic resource for those of us who are trying to learn at home.
Dear Mr. I´m amateur and I have no word to thank You for everything you ´ve learned alresdy seeing their videos. Grateful for getting me out of ignorance. (josé Eduardo)
Hi I just want to say thanks for your taking the time to share your Machining skills. I am new to machining and just purchased a mill and lathe. I am always referencing your videos to help improve my skills and parts I make Thanks again Ray Mc
hello mr. pete thanks for all the knowledge you transmited to us. it is very inportant to me cause i work in a big machine shop in san francisco california.. it never ends.. thank you...
Thank you for posting these videos. They are very well done. The quality is just outstanding. The video is well lit. The audio is great. And the information is presented in a clear easy to understand manner. Periodically, I check RU-vid for instructional videos on manual machining and usually find myself frustrated for lack of finding much worthwhile. This time, however, I struck gold. Thanks again. You are definitely one of the good guys.
Saw an Adam Savage video where he used a "wriggler," a big expensive gauge to do this and someone in the comments said "we use a Last Word indicator for that." Did a search and yours was the first result. Lovely video. Hope you're doing well.
Mr. Peterson, I have been starting on the punch and die set I told you about, today we cut material on the bandsaw forthe plates that will hold the dowels and the dowel bushings. My friends 1905 White steam car will be going to Pebble Beach in August. I get to do some simple maching projects for the car and am thrilled. His whole barn is full of steam stuff, just a cool thing to be part of. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Greg.
Another excellant video im looking forward to seeing how to use the boring head just bought one for my mill perfect timing ! Thank You for sharing your Knowlage with us
like other people say also new and i'm glad to learn so mush from your posts i like the way of explaining the conventional milling most are all cnc related many thanks for that
Tubalcain, nice video, you explained this very well. I have worked in a machine shop for almost 8 years now and this was one of the first basics I learned, although I learned on a CNC. A similar technique can also be used to set zero central on a square, rectangular, hexagonal or any shape with parallel opposing sides by swinging the needle across the surface until you find the high spot in the indicators motion, zeroing both the indicator and the DRO or collar on the machine, traversing to the opposite side of the work; again swinging the indicator across the surface and adjusting the axis until you find zero at the high point. Then, look at the distance moved and divide this number by two. The operator now moves the axis to whatever this value is, and the work is now centered under the spindle (stock must be machined on sides for precision, but this will get you close enough on saw cut stock if you need to find rough center. Also, backlash on a manual machine may make this tricky). I am sure this method is not new to you, but perhaps some of the viewers are unfamiliar with this method and would like to learn. Just an idea for an installment, and yes I understand you get many questions and can't answer them all. I love the videos, I could listen to you talk for hours. In fact, I have. Thanks, Mr. Peterson, and I apologize for the lengthy comment.
We are looking to take more of our repair processes in-house. Machining bearing journals for large motors is one of those items. I have seen some of your videos, and they are all top notch. Thank you for this video series.
Thanks, Mr. Pete. I am building my first CNC mill/router, and I need to know the elementary principles of machining. i have watched and learned a great deal from you and your videos over the years. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
I am new to the field and I find these videos helpfull but like beepcode said Mr Tubal did forget some important info. I will keep watching his videos but with a grain of slat. Good Job Mr. Tubal and keep the videos coming. Thank you
Great information! I'm new to machine work and I'm finding all your videos very helpful. I have the same Bridgeport J head mill you are using, and the exact same DRO!! I just won a Last Word indicator on Ebay. Thanks for all the info!
That was a very helpful and informative video for a complete beginner like myself. It was explained very clearly. Thanks for taking the time to show us.
i think these vids are awesome. helpful, clear, informative. it appears the vid poster hasnt commented in a couple years, and hes clearly an older guy. i hope hes uh.. still with us =/
hi I love your videos and they have tort me a lot and I have just got a Bridgeport milling machine and was wonting to no haw to milling channels thanks
Your going to indacate a hole and tram a vise,bridgeport or plate etc. Getting the shop lingo down helps alot. Not trying to belittle you or anything but my trade school teacher made it very clear to me that shop lingo is very important especially during a shop walk through.
The gremlins were in the shop today,, so came back to this older video to refresh,,and glad I did,,,(@@). Today will be my first time to set up the boring hear that came with the mill purchase. Hole is egg shaped and after boring, will receive a bushing,,wish me luck guys :)>
Brilliant! I am loving this new knowledge. I'll probably never need it but I feel more comfortable going into my mates' engineering shops. Best Wishes, Brendan
I like doing a lot of boring on round objects in the mill like this part you're doing, on a rotary table in the center of the table X&Y to eliminate the crush effect you mentioned. I love the 'last word' it really work and they are very accurate, even in a Jacobs drill chuck. I prefer collets, but drill chucks are ok.
OK. Mr. Tubal. Forget the 3/8 dowel to get the spindle center close to the bore center. just bring the indicator tip close to (above) the bore and visually estimate the difference in axis + or -. And of most importance. Shifting the mill spindle into NEUTRAL makes the spindle easier to turn. And to continue, snug the axis locks BEFORE you dial in the final setting. Ive seen worn mill tables move more than .01" when locking after final settings. Theres more here to discuss but I wont.
You may find that holding the part between two vee blocks will distort less and grip better with less force. There should be no need for parallels either as the vee blocks will hold the ring square to the o/d. It is worth noting that the ball joint does not guarantee the indicator is vertical to the spindle axis. The stylus is therefore not always automatically set to travel directly towards the spindle centre.
There are better (and faster) ways to indicate a hole. The new co-axindicators are very useful, but expensive. My favorite is the Gladwin indicator. They have been out of production for a long time, but you can find them on the internet. About $30, but worth it. The Gladwin only reads to .001, and that is pushing it, but since it reads from both sides, you can read either direction without all the moving around. Since you are going to bore the hole anyway, .001 should be close enough for 99% of all the work you do.
I found when center I will 0 the Y, then swing the indicator from center Y to X of both sides adjusting the X axis of the table until I get 0 on all 3 sides. All this of course after I find rough center. Works much better on small diameter holes/rounds.
Lyle thank you so much for your endless sea of knowledge. You are truly from the heart. Indicating videos from you are so important to me. How would I check my entire mill table surface to ensure that it is indeed perpendicular to my mill head?