Here we go all the way through the installation and adjustment of a one-shot oiler. Bonus clips of riding bikes on the Virginia Creeper trail in Damascus, VA.
@@davemciver6577 Well, from what I can tell, New Zealand is the most beautiful place on earth (from pictures, I've never actually been there). So I bet you have some good trails over your way too. Best wishes!
That was like watching the real life version of a cartoon where something is leaking and they plug it up only to spring another leak and so on and so on! 😂Dang! Pretty cool to customize your mill, though. I’d like to see a tour of your shop sometime! There’s all sorts of stuff in there.
Thanks! You wouldn't want to see it right now. I put my car into the other side so I could work on it. And that has made me have to crowd everything on my shop side. But maybe I'll give a shop tour some time. I suspect it could take all of 45 seconds. Ha!
The oiler is a nice upgrade. I think I would have run a drill from the old zerk fittings into the center of the saddle, plugged them, and then run the tubing on the inside. I think Vactra #2 is what you want to use. The other stuff I think is too thin.
The drilling idea is a good one. I was thinking I would have to start from inside and hope I could line up with the zerk site. I didn't think about starting from the outside and heading inward. I have plugs and could still do this. I have to think about it. Thanks. Regarding oil, I just looked up and Vactra #2, according to McMaster-Carr's site is viscocity of 68 ISO, 20 SAE. The Mobile Velocite #10 I have in there is viscocity of 22 ISO, 10 SAE. I did a deep dive on oils when researching for my SB lathe, and 20W SAE (68 ISO) is the viscosity of oil for the SB gear box (according to Tubalcain). The SB literature from the time uses Saybolt units and it took awhile for me to find equivalents. I guess I'm just a little anxious about conflicting needs of thicker viscous oil to adhere to the sliding surfaces, and thinner oil to actually make it through the small tubes. I made the mistake on my last lathe of using oil that was too thick and it somewhat clogged up the tubes. Thanks for this feedback. I'm going to carefully consider it.
@@KevinToppenberg Consider that Vactra #2 is indeed Way Oil (I actually use Hangstefer's #2, which is essentially the same, ISO 68, Way Oil). Most of what you are lubricating are the ways. You don't want it to be too thin, I wouldn't think. Nothing in the knee, saddle or table is moving like a spindle would be. I use #2 on all my sliding surfaces, except the K&T, in which I use Mobile DTE Heavy Medium, which is still an ISO 68 oil. It's used in everything from the gearbox to the oiler.
@@MyLilMule I think you are correct and I'll work on getting that changed over. I did see comments on one of the machinist forums that Haas was no longer recommending Vactra#2, and that they were concerned that the replacement oil was even thinner. But since I don't have a CNC, that doesn't really matter. Thanks again.
@@KevinToppenberg I have learned so much from so many people on RU-vid and elsewhere, including from you I am sure. I am just passing on what I have gleaned. Some of it could be bogus. 😉😂
I would consider making a custom oiler, same principle, just a piston in a bore, but make it much more robust, its not a difficult project other than the bore and piston, and even those are aided by viton or whatever type seal you want to use to actually pump, so while precision is mandatory, its not like you have to have a perfect dimension differential, its just important for the bore and shaft to be precise down their lengths and for the difference to allow the seals to actually do the job along with the oil... That way you could make the pump have a common rail with a few outlets for each of the metering blocks to feed off of instead of having to run a single line essentially to connect pump to first block and then daisy chain the blocks thereafter in the same line, which by logic of physics lowers the pressure per unit of length... Tho, that part is a bit of lesser concern as this aint a hydraulic sliding surface akin to diamond lathe`s ways and such... One could however consider that type of mad modification for a machine of this caliber, tho that would be some demanding work and relatively extensive modding... It would however result in a monstrously precise machine that does not technically ever wear out the ways if all things work as they should... Regarding the oiler your got, I would try and route the main line down into the cavernous section of the knee and pull all the wires from inside out to minimize the exposed lines, not necessarily as an aesthetic job but to keep them safe from any possible yanking or other sources of damage... That would allow you to mount the X/Y axis block on the bottom flat of the carriage, and the knee(Z axis) block inside the knee, where from you could just pull the lines through an identical set of holes you had drilled for that one traversing line... Speaking of the carriage(X/Y table slide), i dont own a bridgeport, so i dont know the geometry of the works, but if those front facing oiler holes are straight or better said level, then you can drill through them - use the front hole as a drill guide, drill through, tap the front holes and plug them with brass threads... You get the holes on the inside, underneath the X table and routing the lines through the gaps around the nut carrier, you could connect them to the carriage block... You could also more easily contend with the nut oiling by just drilling a single hole in the lower section of the upper part of the nut carrier, pulling a line from below into that when the carrier is seated in its place, and drilling another hole in the lower section as you did, which would also be accessible from below through the knee cavern... The whole thing would require some more elaborate consideration of line length to accommodate for the travel of the parts that lines are connected to, but it would make for a much more sleek outcome that would shield the lines from most interference... The Y ways scraping is a bit fucky... You dont have to use a reference surface for it outside the machine, but you have to have a single axis(other than the X in your case) that you can work off of... Its how most tricky machines are refinished... You choose the a primary surface in line with the spindle, you make it square, flat, parallel and so on in relation to the spindle, from that point, you use that surface as a referent surface for all other surfaces... With bridgeport, i guess you would first have to contend with the ram and make sure its perfectly fitting, scrape in the head swivel surfaces to be square to the Y axis of the ram... From that point, you would either work off of the spindle quill or the head swivel surface to establish the Z axis ways, and from there you can establish the Y axis and the X thereafter... Its a bitch, but if done well, it can make the t.i.r. of the entirety of the axes be less than 1 tenth at any given combination of axis coordinates... Its great because you really only need a good straight edge, a good square block, even a square cyl. could do fine and a very good machinists precision box level with V groove sides... No need for enormous surface plates or any such nonsense... Sure, a lot of other metrology eq. that i didnt mention like indicators and gauge grade blocks for measuring across the scraped surfaces, maybe even precision ground stones, but it is a remarkably good technique that is most often used on larger machinery... And the stops for the axes i would definitely give some brass tips... A bronze shim or two may not be a terrible idea even if the stops rotate without interference with the lines, merely as a friction modifier... Sorry for the pocket bible, but you kinda gave me an opening :P All the best and kind regards! Steuss
Steuss, you have given me a lot to think about. I have never thought about having the oiler run inside the knee. But you are right, it would be neater and less prone to damage. I appreciate your feedback. Thanks!
@@KevinToppenberg Anytime, as said, sorry for writing such a long text, but also, as said, you inspired me to share what came to mind from what i have seen in the past or considered at some point... Regarding the oiler lines, yeah, i kinda saw all that lovely space inside the castings, and though - why not? Its kinda how my Schau 22 has the stuff configured, the pump is on the side of the machine, and the rest of the stuff is hidden away... I would also consider an automatic oiling sys... I snagged a few Willy Vogels over the last 5 years since i gotten my first machine, and while i dont use them, they do really make for a great system that can be either timed or set to oil the machine when certain parameters are met, like putting a little toggle switch below the X axis, and having the pump squirt 1ml of oil every 1st, second or third time the table trips the switch or whatever other parameter you find most logical... Its always a pleasure to be able to share ideas with people who share the love for machines... So dont thank me, i`m grateful that there are other people who love machines, and writing a bit of text is never an issue when the topic hits home :P All the best!
Nice project Kevin, the oiler himself looks to be a good one. Where did you bye it, i'm looking for one to bild on my planer. A bojure is oke but very expensive. I wish you a quick recovery from covid.
I bought this one. www.ebay.com/itm/266130850205 Thanks for the well-wishes. I don't have anything objectively to complain about. I just feel crappy and want to complain. Ha!
Hi Kevin, really nice job. Just found some of your videos. I will subscribe. I am starting the same project. Stupid question. I’m looking to do basically the same kit you are but those hoses in the front won’t work for me unless it’s the only way. Is there a way you can DRILL a hole through the front hole, like a 1/8 drill bit and it will come out the other side. That will intercept the oil hole and when you are finished then plug the front hole. You have much more experience than me. If it works for you then I know to do it. Just a joke. But would love to see if it would work. Thanks. Keep the videos coming.
I have had several other commenters recommend this. I have not actually gotten back to the mill so see if I ran a drill through the hole, from the outside, where it would like up with on the inside. And remember that the hole will need to be tapped, presumably from the inside. So there will have to be clearance for that. Honestly, I don't love the outside lines, but for now it is not bothering me and I don't know if it is worth it to me to make the change. I just subscribed to your channel. We used to have a Boston Terrier, and the photos of your on your page remind me of her when she was young. Why not post your progress on your mill? Best wishes.
@@KevinToppenberg Your probably right, by the time you drill it and tap it would probably be a lot. I thought the factory did it with holes where the tubes just pushed in and were held by friction. I will probably post some videos. I have all the parts in the primer stage,except for the main frame and the top ram. I did have some videos but for some reason the card won’t read now but I will try in the next week or so to show my progress. My parents had a Boston terrier. The best dog ever. My Buddy is 12 and has a heart defect which we give him medication for and Bella is 6. They are best friends and I also watch my daughters dog on Wednesdays. I am a animal lover and dogs are my favorite. I’m a 54 year old disabled/retired car stereo technician, but also learned plumbing from my father who was a master plumber, and also restored a few classic cars. I just got into machining about 3 years ago. Everything I learn is from RU-vid. I really enjoy it. Anyway love the videos, I can’t tell you how many times I watched one of your videos and I see you running into a stupid problem and feel the same way you do. Hope you and your family are well. Take care Kevin…….. Rod.
Rod, Sounds like we are kindred spirits. I'm 55, so about the same age too. We had to put our Boston Terrier Maxie down due to cancer, and that was sad. Best dog we've every had. We have a chiwinnie right now. She's OK, but nothing like Maxie was. Best wishes.
I understand what you say about quality. But I just looked at there site, here: machinerypartsdepot.com/product/k1099/ The listed price is $440-1240. I paid $60 for the set I show but today's price is about $75. That means it could break and I completely replace it between 6 and 16 times. If I were a production shop, I would definitely go for the quality. But for now, I suspect I will be doing a replacement in about 2 yrs. I won't be happy about it then, but that's a problem for future Kevin. Ha! Thanks for watching.
Well, the old zerks just screw out. So one could just put a new oil system into those same holes. But in my case, someone had used the zerks to pump thick grease in there, so I really had to get it all cleaned out.
