You would not believe how helpful these videos have been to me. I watch them a few times, then get up the guts to work on mine. Successfully and knowledgeably. Thanks a Jillion !!
I will have to say H&W is a pleasure to work with called for some parts ( a few times) they knew what I needed before I finished my sentence. Great company and not cheep knock off parts highly recommend
Just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate that you do these videos. They were a huge help when I rebuilt my Bridgeport earlier this year (using your rebuild kit of course). I really wish we had this video back then, it probably would have saved me disassembling and reassembling it a few times. Again, thanks so much for taking the time to put these out.
This video saved my bacon. I have a SuperMax mill, but luckily it seems to be an exact copy of a Bridgeport. We have a couple of really old variable speed Bridgeports rebuilt by y'all. They run excellent! Thank You!
What a helpful series of videos. I had the shop Chromebook on this video as I reassembled my J-head - very handy. One thing to note. Like the machine in this video (at 21:04), my machine has 2 sets of cam-ring screw (and locking set screw) holes, but I can't figure out why. You didn't mention it specifically, but I looked to align the holes for the locking set screws that secure the cam-ring screws. I also had to re-tighten the upper bearing lock nut (18:06), because it went on hard, and if it's not completely tightened, the splined gear hub (1:24) will drag on the spindle pulley hub (15:34) when the back gear is selected.
They give you two sets of holes because when the first sets wears, you have another set to use. Bridgeport was aware that they tend to wear rather quickly so they gave you extra holes to use. -Heather
Thank you for the great video. Wish I had known some of the tips and tricks before I did mine. I put it together and took it apart 5 or 10 times until it was right. This video would have saved me so much work. Again, thank you for the great video.
Loved the video, thanks! In fact, I appreciate all of the videos. I've spent my life in the rebuild and retrofit industry, but it was only recently that I got my own Bridgeport. Many years ago, I did one series one and two series twos? (the bigger one), so this was a nice refresher course.
Packing the gears with grease would be great for me, sincce I am one of those people who are terrible about oiling my machine when I use it.Maybe if I get bored this winter I'll open it and have a look.
These are such awesome instructional videos. Just bought my 70 year old (1952) Bridgeport mill, and wanting to do a top to toe restoration eventually, but going to do it in manageable stages. These videos are beyond excellent. Can we buy these “parts kits” that match these videos through your company? I’m located downunder, so not sure if you ship internationally or I’ll just drop ship via a US address? I don’t know if you get the amount of heartfelt thanks that these videos deserve, but I’m subscribed & eternally thankful. 👍👍👍🇦🇺
We do ship to Australia. The easiest way would be to get on the website and go through the checkout process, you can see the shipping cost that way before you place the order. www.MachineryPartsDepot.com
@@HWMachRepair Thanks heaps. You make it look a lot easier than I’m sure it really is. I reckon if I mount a big TV screen in the shed and followed step by step, I could pull this off. Trying to figure all those steps out by trial and error, my head would explode about 20 minutes in. 😂😂👍🇦🇺
I have a Sharp YC 1 1/2 VA. Is this pretty much the same disassembly and reassembly? Any idea where I can get a replacement kit.? You guys are great at what you do by the way, thanks.
It's going to be similar enough. You can call if you run into any issues and we can help you through it. Unfortunately Sharp doesn't support the Step Pulley heads anymore so parts are limited. We can help with belts and bearings but that is about it. You can email me for more info: support@hwmachinerepair.com
love your videos. dont own a mill yet, but your videos make me realize that an old step pulley machine is OK. i wish folks selling machines would post detail pics of the ways. the most limiting factor to the value of the machine. i can buy most other parts anyway. you mention in another video that you wait to tighten the head bolts until the machine is actually running--why?
The Step Pulley heads are underrated. They are the easiest to maintain, and don't break down as easily as the Variable Speeds. Most sellers either know the ways are bad and don't want to show it, or they just don't have the knowledge to know if the ways are good or not. Many think that flakeing on the ways = good ways, but that is just not the case. To the tightening question, the way the machine runs generally self aligns everything. If you tighten them beforehand, the housing may not be properly aligned and you will have a vibration in the head and in the quill handle. Let me know if you have any other questions.
The quill housing? We have the disassembly, but haven't done the reassembly yet: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SxyXd3QALbA.html&ab_channel=H%26WMachineRepairandRebuilding
Barry says as long as you can still shift without an issue it should be fine. It really depends on how big the crack is and if it's big enough it might finish breaking.
Just recently purchased a bridgeport. Was running well up until late today when it would lock up as it was turned off after on operation. As it deccelerated it would get to a certain speed before it would make a quiet click and lock the spindle. Few wiggles of the top collet nut and it would release but it's got worse as the day went on where it would be jammed for several minutes before it would play ball. I left it tonight with it all locked up again as I'd lost my patients with it by this point. Would the dog gear in and out toggle switch be causing the issue or the fork jamming in anyway? I'm sorry it's so long winded but I hope it makes sense and I thankyou for any help you may be able to give. I'm prepared to strip it but I hope theres an easier option. All the best Alex
Several different things could be causing this issue. Off the top of my head I’m thinking; bad bearing, misalignment issue, or a broken brake spring. Please give us a call and we can discuss the issue further. 1-800-285-5271 or 260-422-0020
My BP was very noise, so I did the top half rebuild, with all new bearing, double checked everything was right following the steps on the video, but now may machine is noisier than before, I don't know what is wrong. If I run it in back gear there is almost no noise, but in direct gear is super noisy. Any ideas of what could it be?
The spindle pulley hub and the splined gear hub are engaged in HI gear. If all of your noise is in HI gear then it will be coming from those. Please give us call or email us for further instruction on how to fix this issue. 1-800-285-5271 OR 260-422-0020
Another great video! Mine bangs a little when I face mill. Do you usually have to replace the shaft also, or just the gear? Machine is in good shape, normal wear. I can still see the scrapings
@@HWMachRepair the splines shaft that goes in the gear hub I think it’s called. The one that goes up and down when you lower and raise the quill. I’m pretty sure that’s what rattling around. Is it most common for the shaft and the hub to wear or just one or the other? I’m not gonna hold you to it of course. Just curious what’s more common. I will be tearing it down within the next couple months and will be ordering some parts. Shouldn’t need much though. I got lucky and found a machine with minimal wear. Thanks
@@kennyrmurray Generally the hub, for a Step Pulley that would be PN 1160 (Splined Gear Hub) wears first. You can pull out your spindle as well and check the splines on it to make sure it hasn't worn to much.
Every time I rebuild a step pulley head, I will sand the outside of the bearing housing and use a Dremel with a sanding flap wheel to clean out the bore in the belt housing. Usually, this is all it needs in order to get a nice smooth fit again. If you have any questions, please give us a call. 1-800-285-5271
H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding Thanks for the reply, I don’t think it’s too bad you can only hear it rattle slightly under no load, when cutting it’s obviously taken up. This is only a hobby machine which is used lightly and way over maintained, is there anything to sort it or just have to replace the upper and lower “castle gears”?
There could be many different things causing noise. It might need to be aligned, a new belt could be a bit noisy, the castle gears might need replaced. You can call and speak to a head technician and they might be able to help walk you though it.
@@HWMachRepair Thank you so much for u replaying i really need u help I am service engineer 👷 my doubt All round head machine have this type of problem Few old machines come only that noise
It does need re-greasing periodically, every couple of years or so. Barry says if you run it in low a lot, maybe check it once a year. You don't need to completely clean it out, but just add some new in there.
Hi David, depending on the Alliant it will either take Sharp parts or ATrump parts. What is the serial of your machine and I can let you know which you have.
Most Bridgeport parts, especially on the motor side, won't work in import machines. Some parts can be modified to work, but we usually handle them on a part by part basis on what we recommend.
@@davidd7226 Hi David, You have a Sharp Alliant (the 8 digit number is the serial). The Sharp LMV parts will work in your head. If you are needing something you can email me with what you need and I can quote it out for you: support@hwmachinerepair.com . I also have a parts manual if you need it.
