Showing various coils associated with the ignition components on our beloved Briggs and Stratton Engines. Enjoy! Zippo Varga P.O. Box 2323 Muncie, IN 47307
Your videos are excellent. Thanks very much. I had issues with my john Deere 68 with 8 hp briggs. Runs great now converted from the points and condenser to the magnetron coil. Did the valves and it runs like a champ now. (Wouldn't start when hot and back fired) Ran it a full tank today. No issues. Started and idled hot. Never did that before. Always nice to have such great technical sharing. Thanks again for all your great videos
Shane Reilly I'm glad they helped out Shane! It's why I do them and why our little community of self help guys band together to provide the videos for the home do it your selfer. Besides that...isn't it awesome so get good results your self instead of sending something off for repairs? Cheers!! Zip~
Thank you, ZippoVarga , for this video. I have gotten this information over the years in "bits and pieces" though never all at once as you have presented it here. It is guys like you who make life easier for the rest of us. Thank you, sir.
Thanks, Zip. Just getting ready to replace magnetron and wasn't quite sure what part to get. I really like all your videos and help. Trying to keep my Dads' old AC fleet running. Kip.
Man, im glad i found your channel. Loved the flo jet videos, hopefully ill get mine to stop leaking. This video is also a big help. Keep up the good work sir!
That is great info' . I nearly had a heart attack when I took the flywheel of and there were no points. The other 3 engines I worked on had points . Relief is putting it mildly . Many thanks . Great video.
Hugh, I'm glad the video helped shed light on the different types of magnet fired ignition systems and that it put your mind at rest with your engine. Cheers! Zip~
Your comments on the mouse eaten ground wire were quite helpful to me. I looked and the mice were not at fault, but the wire was worn and shorting out my spark. My B&S motor is back in operation. Thanks for your video.
Having sorted an old Briggs engine with a carb kit and a points and condensor, I was wondering why the oldies needed points and the newer didn't, you just explained why, thanks.
That is great information! Very interesting. We need more videos like this! I did not know this. Very true about knowing if you have the right parts. I have found that starter generators and voltage regulators are also all different. Thus the wiring is different and polarization of the generators is different..
Thanks Zippo for the Video. I have a Briggs 26 hp twin that when I hook the ground wire from each Mag together, they ground out.( they are not attached to the ignition switch), if they are both unhooked from the spade on the mag/coil the engine will run with no way to shut it down. I guess what I am saying is that if only the grounding spade on the two mag's are connected to each other the engine will not start. Any ideas ? could one of the mags be bad?
cool, i just pulled my mag off to clean rust off wheel, and i was very curious what the button was until you said it replaced points , very good video, learned alot
The oldest coil shown can be from 2 hp to the 23 ~10hp as shown. Just have different holes. The next coil is also used with points or an add on point eliminator modal. I have split the lamentations and replaced coils from other sizes. Common 3 1/2 coils unto the much rarer 5 and 8hp. Also have ground 3-1/2 to fit the much larger 8-12hp. Just smack mushroomed coils back and try. They keep changing the hole patterns so you have to check the spacings.
I have Briggs 8R6, Part 702814, serial 173251 with a coil just like the first one. I was able to get the coil off to replace and reuse the 3 leg like you noted. Is there a part number I can search for to buy? Wish I could post a pic. Thanks for the great videos.
Could you please let me know where this coil alone can be sourced from. I have a 1960 simplicity with the briggs 23D. Started with intermitten ignition. Took the engine out ran some continuity and other simple test. Re installed cranked fine then after it sat for a few I reconected the positive battery lead and the mag went up in smoke. I had some weird ground issues when checking the flywheel rotation but shrugged it off for a 60 year old machine.
Enjoyed video. Just subscribed today. I have a 5 year old john deere riding mower with a briggs engine that fires easily and runs great until it gets hot after 10 minutes and then cuts out and dies. After cools down it will repeat the same scenario. I have not looked at coil but does that sound like a possible cause of the problem? Thanks
That would be my first guess, yes. I have a video showing how to make a home made positive Spark Tester that you can put in line on one of the spark plug wires (assuming it's a twin) and you will know for certain if you're losing spark. You can leave the spark tester on the engine while running it. You might also remove the top cover of the engine (blower housing) and make sure everything is clean and clear and free of obstruction. These engines, being air cooled, will overheat and shut down if the cooling fins are dirty/blocked. I would make it a habit of cleaning this area at least once a year as a means of preventative maintenance. Also, if the engine is new enough, it has a pressurized lube system with a low oil pressure cut off to protect the engine. Make sure the oil is changed every 25 hours with new oil filter and check the air filter after every few times you mow (depending on dusty conditions etc.) Hope some of this information helps! Cheers!! Zip~
just upgraded my 81' lawn tractor over to the new magneto, wired the ground connector to a switch so I can kill the engine, but the second I bolt it to the engine the connector is grounded out. Any suggestions. I used some thin none conductive gasket material and made small washers to fit between the engine and the magneto, but the screw heads grounded it out anyway. Though of making some washers to fit under the screw heads, but stopped cause if the screw shaft touches the hole walls its still going to ground out. What can I do here.
Hi Zippo, do you know which magnetron coil , I would need to use to replace my points and condenser on both a 1965 and 66 8 hp. briggs engines most lawn mower coils plug wires are to short to use. Or if nothing is out there in used equipment, what new part # to use.Thanks so much .I enjoy your videos
Bob Ledarney Vertical shaft or horizontal shaft engine? The numbers off the engine are needed to insure you get the right replacement part Bob. I have a video showing where to look for the numbers. Cheers!! Zip~
hey Zip! enjoying your videos. Been quite a few years since this video was made, but oh well. So on my coil, the output wire from the coil to the condensor broke. Is this repairable, or should i just get a new coil?
The wire you speak of. Is there a way for you to solder a new wire to the same output wire on the coil? If not, I would replace it. You can go to Briggs and Stratton to get the parts manual for your engine in which you can locate the correct part number. Then simply search the part number in google. Good Luck! Zip~
Great video. Question... Is it mandatory to have the magneto ground connection connected for an ignition to work? I know this video is afew years old, but was still hoping for an answer. Thank you Zip
Hi, Zippo... I hope you see this as your video is over 2 years old....... I am trying to reinvent the wheel and become a small engine mechanic at 65 and fix my 1980 B&S engine. I put a new magneto on the troy-bilt rototiller, converting it from points and condenser. I got the part from a reputable dealer that fixes small engines I took out that little bar thingy and put the plug in. Used a business card to gap the new mag, cut the extra wire off and used the correct one to go to the shut off connection. Put back on the fin "shield" that was to the left side of the old condenser. put every thing else back together.. fly wheel, cover ETC. STILL NO SPARK. New spark plug already also.. Then on top of that I bought a new carb because I thought that was another problem and the stinking thing leaks, over flowing out the bottom bolt hole. I reset the long needle so it "squeeks" and the slot where the end of the screw driver goes got messed up because of course I did not have the right sized screw driver to span the whole width of the slot . I don"t know if the slot needs to be unmarred or not. The second pointed needle still can screw in without a problem. And the carb still leaks!!!!!!!!!!! after I reset the long needle. Any suggestions on my 2 problems. 1: no spark. 2: still leaking carb.
Spark sounds like the flywheel may need to be re-polarized to match the new breakerless coil (Magnetron), and the leaking carb could very well be the needle and seat or the float isn't doing it's job. That's the best I can do for you from here. Briggs will re-polarize the flywheel free of charge. You just need to pay shipping in both directions. Zip~
Hey zipp.. can you install mag. upside down instead of reversing polarity on flywheel?.. or if you happen to accidentally install inverted would it still run?..
If you're installing a Magentron on a points engine, you can flip the magnetron around (Cylinder side OUT) and it will play nice with the magnets, yes. Zip~
Hi Zippo I stumbled upon your channel here and getting to the point inherited a old Bowlens lawn tractor with A 16HP TWIN opposing engine that says magnatron electronic ignition.It runs ok ,but seems like running a car engine with no spark advance.Are there any tricks maybe to advance the spark timing on these engines a little.The carb was just rebuilt and actually adjusts out now.Noticed the governor is very strong on these not allowing the throttle to open up maybe half way looking down the throttle trying to get some rpm;s out of it for a little more power.Printed on the engine says 16hp at 3200 rpm.It never gets there.Adjusted the throttle cable thing that it slipped but the gov just pulls it back if anything.Any Ideas?
+HARPO1ME Do you have a tachometer to check the engine RPM? And yes, the governor is very strong on the opposed twins, and they need to be in order to maintain engine RPM under load. Altering the factory settings can prove detrimental to the engine and worst case, can blow it up. They are fixed timed and for good reason and at the optimum timing. Again, altering the engine's factory settings can cause bad things to happen. If you want more power to the ground, I suggest putting a larger final drive pulley on the tractor and leave the engine alone. This is just my opinion of course. There are other channels that show how to alter the engines to get more out of them. That's up to you, but understand the risks. Sorry this doesn't give you tips and tricks to help you out, but I'm all about bone stock reliable performance. Cheers!! Zip~
Thanks for the info .I like the idea also of leaving them the way they should be.I like the idea of the final drive pulley change..This thing looks like it has over 500 hours on it by the meter and so not feel like blowing up a good motor that does not smoke!!.I ran it last winter plowing snow .It did well ,but earned a new fuel pump and a carb overhaul this summer cutting grass since the pump went out.May be just leave well enough alone and get some weight in this thing since over a foot of snow one day made it work little harder then it should.
+HARPO1ME When you hear the governor kicking in, listen for the engine to drag down instead of keep on going. Adjust ground speed to keep the engine growling, but not loosing RPM and that's where they are happiest. Cheers!! Zip~
Thanks 604....lots of years learning for a couple minutes of helping others. It's what I love doing and always glad to share my knowledge. Cheers!! Zip~
Thanks for stopping by John! I've got nearly 1000 videos with many dedicated to small engines. Feel free to peruse them. Who knows, you might find more useful information. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks for the vid. I just bought a briggs type N engine I think. Cute lil thing but the coil is bad. Any idea where I can source a slip on coil for this 3 leg armature? The 291617 seams to be gone.
Unfortunately Craig, they are NLA (No Longer Available). Your best bet is to source a good used coil through small engine collectors web sights or on collector groups on Facebook. There's many of us out there who collect these old engines, and most of us also hoards parts. Cheers and Good Luck! Zip~
I'm having a bad time sourcing a replacement coil for a Sears Craftsman Brigges and Stratton 6.5 hp mower (no points) approx. 25 years old. No model no. on the engine but a sticker on the deck showed a 944.363530 as a model #. And guess where to get one ?
I have a 1960's vintage Trail King motor bike with a 3 HP B.S. engine I'm restoring. 1) Only info on engine is plate on the block which says: TD NUMBER 2222198. Can you help identify this model? 2) I bought a coil/magneto conversion but the existing coil has four (4) bolts and of course the conversion has only two (2) bolts. In your video you mention/show a mounting bracket.....I need that bracket in order for the conversion coil to match up to the flywheel but I can't find a bracket anywhere and without a correct model that is recognized I'm stuck. What are your thoughts?
No spark in a Briggs & Stratton Model 243431 0123 Type 01 CC: 67100 61, in an Allis-Chalmers B-110 garden tractor. Can I convert that motor model to solid-state ignition? Would I need to get the flywheel re-polarized?
With the linked magnetron in this comment, it's plug and play. No other work is needed except to install. Zip~ www.ebay.com/itm/121148616567?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Hey Zippo, I have a 3hp B&S motor, numbers are: Type 0413-03 Code 9082101 Model ?30202? Do you know which magnetron would fit and where to buy one? Cheers, Phil. (Top Conker).
Heya phil! You can go to the Briggs web sight, go to the manuals section and download the manual for your engine and within will be all your part numbers at your fingertips. Then Google Briggs and the part number and you'll have dozens of choices. Hope this helps!!! Cheers! Zip~
Do you have knowledge and info on John Deere ignition systems. In specific 14SB. On the kill side of coil there is is a sealed unit inline and grounded with another wire coming out of it to the kill switch. Does this unit increment the grounding to minimize the ground spike at higher rpm's to minimize coil damage?
You are describing a Resistor. A 6V coil needs the resistor to keep the coil from overheating. A 12V coil will be marked 12V, but the 6V will not have any discernible markings. Zip~
ZippoVarga thank you for info. I subsequently got my mower running and it was that control module. I found info on the electrical system and everything else via a Toro application that also uses the Kawasaki FC150V engine.
Great video! I need to replace my magnetron type (exactly like the 3rd one in your vid) I really need help finding one!! I have the engine model number, but online suppliers keep sending me the wrong one. Who do YOU recommend for parts sir? Help me Mr Wizard! 😬
What is holding you up in limbo is your engine and its numbers are for a points fired magneto. You need to figure out what a newer engine would have for a Magnetron. But there is a small problem with converting these earlier points engines to a Magnetron successfully. The polarity of the magnets on the points fired engine is opposite that of the Magnetron fired flywheel. So...the solution (If your existing coil is good) is a simple and inexpensive Nova II Module put in place of the points. Zip~
ZippoVarga Thank you. If there was a way to attach a pic I’m sure you’d get a better idea of what part I’m dealing with. The problem is no spark, so I’d like to replace the bad part and I’d be good to go I think. Google search of B&S 397358, then look at Amazon for $37.48, and that’s my part. What they sent looks similar to other ones that are about $15. (smaller) It did come in a B&S part box however. Thanks again Zippo! Udaman!
@@ZippoVarga does the nova 2 not require me to pop the flywheel and move the bracket to adjust the timing a fraction, as the bracket under the fw is slotted left and right?
What is the part number on the magnet magnetron for an older engine with the older flywheel - without having it go into the shop to have the magnet reversed
hey my good man. Jim here so ? question for you so what are the other wires off the back of my coil for you know the for that go into a screw bolts it's just a kill-switch on the singer things to 3.0 Briggs & Stratton horizontal what are the other ones for alright thank you like your video by Jim here peace
Hi ZippoVarga, I have a powerking 1616 garden tractor that has a B&S 16 hp engine. There is no serial number on the engine as I have looked everywhere and I called B&S customer support with no luck. I wasn't getting any spark so I took out the coil and the wire was broken, maybe eaten a little by a mouse. Any way I was wanting to put in the magnetron that doesn't require repolarization. I can't order the part without the engine info. Are there generic magnetrons that will work? Thanks, liked your video.
i saw older man use a flash light battery to test these coils , I tried it and it worked great! everybody should use this test method, I used a 9 volt Battery from a smoke alarm
Hi Zippo, I've been watching your posts with interest and am currently in a bit of a pickle! I'm unable to ID my engine type as the cultivator/tiller I have has no markings/serial/model numbers etc so identification is near on impossible for me to do. I'm trying to modify my machine so it uses an electronic ignition coil as opposed to the old points system. Would it be possible to email you some pictures of my machine to see if you're able to ID the engine?? Any help you can give would be very much appreciated! :) Thanks buddy!
+Skibba Dee Hello Skibba. You can find me on Facebook and there you can message me photos and I can see if I can help or at least point you in the right direction. Cheers! Zip~
+julio lausell Electronic ignition module built in. On the Magnetron, the little button is also a sort of electric ignition module, only it's a magnetic pick up. All engines made today are electronic ignition, and there are many varieties and appearances. The one's I am showing are Briggs and Stratton specific, but the concept is the same. Cheers! Zip~
+ZippoVarga THANK YOU for the reply. I was using a weed eater magneto ignition on a 4 stroke 90cc chinese 4-wheeler engine. You can see my video here in youtube ( Homemade two engine Go-kart ). I made it high compression, and could not get it to run with out miss firing. I tried changing the coil, changing the coil wire, changing to a colder plug, even going to the stock cdi ign. system. The miss fire never went away until I bought a nitro fuel mix to raise the octane of the fuel. It cost $16.00 for treating three gallons of fuel. It worked. I guess it was having pre ignition, but I never heard a ping sound from the engine. I never thought that a small engine (90cc) could ping or pre ignite with out hearing it. The problem is now solved. But, THANKS for your video and reply.
question, I have a 16 hp briggs and stratton cast iron that I was running off of points and a car coil because I could not get good spark (I think my magnets were weak) It ran great for a while then started acting up, so I pulled the flywheel and had it sent off and re-polarized, now it seem to be getting good spark but it will not run just backfires when I try to start it. Any suggestions?
KydexByParlusk Remove the flywheel. I think you'll find that you sheared the flywheel key. Replace with the correct shear key and tighten the flywheel to the crank shaft very tightly. Often, we don't tighten the flywheel enough...so tighten it, loosen it, tighten it again....do this a couple or three times to make sure the flywheel is fully seated to the crank shaft. I've had engines come in for repair and this was all that was wrong and most often, it was the owner who was performing maintenance that simply didn't get the flywheel retaining nut tight enough, then the first time the engine fires, it shears the key and throws the timing off. Keep me posted on your progress! Cheers!! Zip~
ZippoVarga another update...I pulled the flywheel today just to make sure the key was fine and that it wasn't a steel key. everything looked good. I re-installed the fly wheel with a new key. I changed the magnetron to another that i have laying around that is the newer style. after a couple of turns to get the carb primed she fired right up. It took a minute to warm up, but once it was warm she seemed to run good. I never get too excited when i get it running good because it never seems to last, but hopefully changing it over to electronic ignition will sold my problems. time will tell. Here is a youtube playlist of my build so far on the terramite that the engine is in ru-vid.com?lis...9Xf8Mj6q-txLG2
patricia lord You need the numbers off your engine in order to get the correct part for your specific engine. You can go to Briggs and Stratton to download the Individual Parts List for your engine and get the correct part number.
i have a yard man 20 horse power runs good when it turns on but when i turn on the blades and i turn it up it loses power and when i turn off blades it stays normal again. what can i do?
+Jose Rivera Check for worn pulleys, spindles and belts. IF the deck is drawing the engine down, there's something amiss with the deck it seems. Since I'm not able to be hands on your machine, I suggest finding the operators manual and looking in the maintenance section. Perform all the maintenance as outlined and if the problem persists, investigate further. Troubleshooting is hard to do from here, so this is the best advice I can give you, all things considered. Best of luck and I hope you find the problem! Cheers!! Zip~
Great Video, you are the only person to explain this. I have a 3 hp with a December 1970 date code, it uses the 2 legged coil with no pickup., not the 23D. Briggs And Stratton says the flywheel must be re-polarized. I think you are saying that if the engine uses the points system, the coil you show with the "Button" should work. Is that Correct? Thanks
The coil with the button is a solid state ignition type called a Magnetron. Many people convert their points fired older Briggs over to the solid state simply by eliminating the points and installing the Magnetron. The key is to make sure you're getting the correct size coil for your application. The smaller 1970's 3-5hp Engines use the same coil, so you can source a 5hp Magnetron and it should work fine for you. You can also leave the points in place and just don't connect the wire coming from the condenser to anything. You will notice a spade connector on the Magnetron, That is for your kill wire. But, your 3hp should have the kill at the spark plug. Good luck on your venture John! Cheers!! Zip~
I need help with my older Briggs I think it's a 16 HP I pulled the flywheel off but no key Crank has a spot for it but flywheel don't looks like it had a tab on the front I don't know what I should be looking for
If there is no key, and the flywheel has a small tab that nests into the notch on the flywheel that is removable with a small screw, then it's most likely a 9hp Model 23. Photos speak 1000 words. Email me at the address in the description below with photos of the engine and I'll try to help you. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga i put on a chevy truck coil on it and went with the points I'll try to send you a picture thanks for replying you know more than anyone I know about old Briggs
Go to Briggs and Stratton's web sight. There, you can enter the numbers off your particular engine to get the IPL (Individual Parts Listing) and within will be your part numbers. Zip~
I'd like to contact you about my B & S 8 hp motor and its magneto. I've watched this video 2 times and I have one just like the yellow looking one in your video. I'm pretty sure it's toast. I was hoping you could share where I would get a replacement. I don't have any information on the motor other than it's probably an early 80s or late 70s model engine. The plaque that usually has the motor info is missing and all I have is the info from the guy that owned it before my. He said it was a 8 hp. Let me know if you would like to text me on my phone.
What if there is no top cover, so I do not have the model number and type. Is there another place to find the numbers. Original motor blew (9 or 10hp) and was replaced with a newer motor (13hp?). The new motor was an electric start, old was pull start. Mechanic put old top cover with pull start on new motor. So i old have original motors model and type. I have a no spark senario, tried to order coil via top cover and still no spark. Can the coil be identified via the old coil? Should the coils look identical side by side? I asked the mower shop and they refused to assist. Because of the virus I have no way to transport the mower to the shop.
So Zippo, ur saying the 23 AFB has a whole different magneto set-up than the 23D? on mine, the magnets are under the flywheel and a coil on a core that looks like a horseshoe crab. The new point-less has an interesting metal piece next to one of the poles. as I understand it, there are 3 coils inside, the primary, secondary and a so-called trigger coil working with a diode or transistor.
Hi Raymond. You are correct. The 23AFB is not compatible with later Mags and cannot be converted to breakerless ignition. If your coil is bad, you CAN replace it with a remanufactured unit easily enough. I have yet to determine if the Nova II Ignition Module works on this type of coil/mag to eliminate the points, but they are cheap enough if you wanted to give one a try. Just Google Nova II and you'll get plenty of purchasing options. Your coil part number is 290880 and if you search that number on ebay you will find plenty of options. Zip~
Hi guy, I am trying to convert an 8hp briggs to electronic ignition. You show a coil with a button on the bottom and said that you don't have to have the flywheel repolarized if you use that coil. The local dealer sold me a 398811 stating it is all I need to change from points to electronic, but all it does is backfire and pop so I assume it is a candidate for needing repolarized. Do you know the part number of the coil you are showing that will work without repolarizing the flywheel? Many thanks in advance.
Flip the coil over. In other words, put the button on the opposite side. One side of the coil says something like CYL Side. Face that in the opposite direction away from the Cylinder and give it a go. Let me know your results. This trick usually works like a charm. Zip~
Getting rid of the points isn't as simple as just buying a Magnetron coil and putting it on. The polarity of the magnets on the flywheel is incorrect for the newer style and the flywheel should be sent back to Briggs & Stratton to be re-polarized, free of charge. You just pay shipping. Another option is a points eliminator. Either a Briggs & Stratton kit or a Nova II ignition module can be used. I have videos on both and it's a cheaper and simpler way to rid your self of the ignition points. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I ordered the nova ignition module and a stock replacement coil because mine is kinda rough and suspect. I'm hoping that will fix my issues. My dad inherited this edger from my grandfather and I inherited it from my dad so I world really like to keep it going and use it. The date code on the shroud says it was made in 1970 which makes it older than me!
I'm hoping you can help, I'm pulling my hair out. I have a 23D with a bad coil winding from what I can conclude. The armature laminates look good, so I'm hoping replacing the coil winding will solve my problem. I've researched a replacement but I'm lost. Do you know of a specific manufacturer winding that will fit?
296834 is your armature (coil) part number. They are no longer available, but if you search Briggs and Stratton collector sights on Google, you should find what you need with a little work. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I used to have a supplier, but when their stock ran out, that was it. Zip~
First off, thank you for such a speedy reply. The original armature 296834, is no where to be found so I'm trying to find another option. I've scoured many of the old B&S sites and have found many conflicting opinions. Would repolarizing the flywheel allow me to replace the coil with a 2 leg versions, or convert to an electronic system? Or possibly replacing the flywheel from another 23 model that uses a 2 leg coil work? I appreciate any help or opinion you may have.
Question,,, are the business cards a different thickness? If so that don't work all the time,unless you find a business cards of the same thickness that you need
Business cards are standardized believe it or not. There are two main thicknesses. .014 and .016. Both are absolutely fine for setting the gap on Magnetos. Zip~
How does the Briggs Magneto test meter work? Does it instill negative - 140v pulse into the primary to run the secondary?? I have an old Briggs ignition coil METER tester manual , but it only shows how to hook up to it's meter. No tech data. I thought the spinning magnet put in 8 volts pulse in Primary , that shorts with the SS trigger, then generates back EMF of -140 volts that runs the secondary side. I can run cycle coils and car coils on bench, but not Briggs magneto "electrically" without magnet. Is this suppose to be a secret from the public?
I have a Magnitron how do you test it with a volt ohm meter? I get 2.7K between spark lead and ground. I get 1.2 ohms between ground and the kill connection. Is this right?
@@ZippoVarga Thanks Zippo. I wire brushed off all the rust on the flywheel and cleaned up the Magnatron set the gap with a business card and I have spark!! Thanks for the video. Do you have a video on how to repair pull starts? I have a old 1980s Kholer 13 hp that some times wont't catch and won't retract. I think its missing a friction washer, or somebody replaced parts
I have a late 60's early 70's montgomery ward with a briggs 16 horse (model 38148 B) I can't find any info on this engine and I need to replace coil to a electronic and you seem to be the man on these engines can you point me in right direction thanks and you do a great job on videos.
The actuator magnet on outside of Briggs mower flywheel is all north pole, not N+S. Test it yourself with any magnet North , so that it repels each end of the outside FLYWHEEL magnet. The other guy on RU-vid says the embedded Briggs magnet has N + S at each end, so as AC is produced in primary.
question: i have a 3hp B&S and and i have no spark, one wire goes from the coil to the points, one to the sparkplug but i dont know where the third wire has to go.
The third wire is your kill wire. It grounds to the engine and disables spark to shut the engine down. There is usually a spring loaded capture on the throttle assembly where this wire connects. Zip~
Briggs ss Magnetrons + old Briggs magneto coil have different magnetic air flux gap on laminations. Why is this in theory, and how is timing changed by this, Can coil of different width gap be used to change timing on Briggs engine?
With the points fired coil, the timing is a marriage between the points and bridge of the coil in conjunction with the flywheel magnet orientation. Changing to electronic ignition coil or Magnetron, allows for the trigger point to be in time with the flywheel. So, whether the bridge is larger or smaller, the trigger point (or timing) is the same. The position of the button on the Magnetron is so situated to fire within a 5 degree timing point, benefiting both older engines that are retro fitted with the electronic ignition coil and current manufacturing. In the Magnetron's infancy, it was required to re-polarize the flywheel on older Briggs engines, not for timing, but to initiate the trigger point within the 5 degree buffer zone. That 5 degrees is key, because it allows for the use of the different coils and their widths between poles to be within the 5 degree window. Regardless, the points or electronic trigger fire according to the flywheel's position, which is in direct relation to the crank shaft position which is between TDC and 5 degrees before Top Dead Center. There is a sacrifice in certain configurations, but the power loss is negligible and not enough that it isn't overcome by torque, where the real power of a small engine truly lies. You might notice the power band difference on a static dynomometer where the power doesn't come in until slightly higher RPM, or it comes in sooner at a lower RPM, but again, unless you're building high power alcohol engines for a living, this slight difference in timing and where the power comes in is quickly absorbed through the governing system. Which is another ball game all together and where further power compensation is happening. So, can timing be changed to a point that matters using different coils...not directly, no. Off set flywheel keys, adjustable coil mounts and other tricks are used to move the timing for certain applications. But a simple swap won't gain any noticeable power either gained or lost. Zip~
Hi Stan. If it's the original engine, there will be a tag riveted to the grill side of the engine (forward facing) and should be an aluminum tag. IF it's the original engine, it will be a Model 19. If, by chance, it's a later model replacement engine, there are a number of other places they placed the information. I have a video showing Briggs identification locations. Cheers! Zip~
#####!!!!What is the POLARITY of each cable to the 2 cylinder engine spark plugs? How does the Magnetron work for both cylinders? One or two magnets on flywheel?>>>>
yep i got an old 3 horse edger with the magneto i have the model number type and code off the motor shroude and still having a hard time finding an exact match lol
