Thank you so much for posting this. I tore apart my carb linkages without taking a picture. Then 1 month later when I go to put it back together, I had no idea. Out of the many videos that I watched, yours was the only one to show the process for getting it connected correctly.
I build race car engines for a living...but I couldn't make my generator run right after I cleaned the dang carb....thanks to your video I figured out I blew the dang jet across the shop when I was cleaning the carb 🤣🤣🤣! I watched and said "Hey there's a jet missing from my plastic float holder" went back out there and found it laying in the floor lmaooo! Thank's buddy! subscribed...and if ya ever need big carb tuning help like Holley, I'm your guy lol
I always buy aftermarket.... I look for the carburetors that have a center bolt on the bottom of the bowl instead of 2 Phillips screws on the top of bowl. I really like the ones with a plastic elbow fuel inlet too. I ALWAYS TRY TO REPLACE NIKKI STYLE WITH WALBRO STYLE EVERY TIME. IF I CAN. THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS... I ALWAYS LEARN SOMETHING
You are absolutely right about ordering the Walbro style LMT 5-4993 with the bottom bolt. You have to look closely because some offerings are labeled as LMT 5-4993 but are the Nikki style with the Phillips.
Shor answer is No. 2 screws on bowl is a Nikki style. You want a Walbro style carb. The only thing holding the bowl on is the solenoid. Thanks so much for watching and commenting friends
I have to write and say thank you so much sir. My mower is a Craftsman with the exact same engine and was suffering in the same way too. I ordered the Walbro, switched it out with that sorry butt Nikki, changed my oil to get the gas out of the engine, and now it runs like a new mower again. What a relief to my mind. Thanks again T-Bone!
@@RaleysSmallEngines Thank you! I noticed that the NIKKI style carb has two screws on the side bow while the WALBRO carb has only one screw (or the solenoid) at the bottom bow, please confirm.
@@RaleysSmallEngines One commenter at that Amazon link wrote "this part number is, in fact, a Ruixing part number that is Walbro Style". For what its worth.
Great video. Thanks.Had same issue on my LT2000 tractor, 21yrs old.18hp Intek Smoking like hell, stalling out. I thought engine was screwed. New carb, fuel shut off , clear filter, change oil. Now runs perfect. No smoke.😊 BTY, the $25 carb saved me from buying a new $2500 tractor. Yee ha!
@@tonydelovski8088 he bought the cheap knockoffs which youll have a 50/50 chance of it working or not. Buying the real McCoy B&S Carb will burn the wallet $100-$115 but i guess is guaranteed to fix it. Hopefully at that price the carb will never surge again or give us any problems.
Thanks for this video I took your advice and went with the Walbro. Runs great. Did the same thing with the fuel lines too. I have a Troy Built Pony with the Briggs 17.5 horsepower and this worked great.
i have a swisher pull behind trail mower I use with my ATV, I have had a lot of trouble with the carb. I already added a fuel cut off to keep it from flooding so easily, a new filter because the factory one didn't do anything hardly. vie already ordered the new carb you showed and cant wait to get it put on there. great video & thank you
Nice video T-Bone. The 2 cameras worked well with great close ups! I wonder how many engines have been wounded because of Nikki carbs. The Walbro swap looks like the way to go.✌😎🇺🇸
I always fit a hyper filter on everything that comes through my shop. Need longer fuel hoses and get the filter angle right or it can fill with air, but works a treat. And you can see when it's getting dirty.
Ya and that's exactly the problem. It's a junk carb but here you are defending them. The walbro is a simple design and holds rpm far better than the Nikki.
Your a genius! I know about engines and that change over was genius and all the tips and tricks that is pretty cool. Thanks for sharing part numbers and brands. I have made a couple of mistakes in the past when putting things back together. Once was a linkage issue. I couldn’t tell that the spring was broken in it’s coil over linkage. I had a surging problem with it afterwards and I finally asked the guys at my local John Deere dealer and one of them said that it sounds like a linkage issue and that I should check the spring that slides over the link and attaches to the governor. I did it and found the spring was broken so I went back to JD and replaced it and problem solved. No more surging. I don’t understand how a spring can prevent surging when there’s already a link in place from the carb to the governor?
Thanks my cub cadet 33 walk behind had a niki carburetor flooded cylinder after watching I rebuild niki with parts and it happened again so I bought a Walboro carb and now it runs like new
I understand. I ask them "Do you want China junk? Or do you want me to fix it right?" And then I say... " have you priced new mowers lately?" 😆 works every time
Just got my Genuine B&S 594593 - I guess the key word you said is Walbro STYLE as this model number is a Ruixing not a Walbro. Eitherway I suspect this will be better than a Nikki. Thanks!
One bad leaking carb can ruin the whole damn engine. I have exact same mtd mower. Been Wondering where my gas was going. Seen gas leaking from the breather tube where it attaches to the intake. Put on china nikki knock off. Opened oil dran plug and 87 octane coffee raced out. Put in new oil. Ran it and it still floods and leaks gAs past the carb. Will look to do thus swap. Matching Part numbers make it all possible.
Thanks for video. The float on my Nikki 698945 carb was sagging just like this one. I tried the heat gun method but it didn't bend much. I used more heat and ended up losing alignment on the journal holes that the pin goes through, so now float will not drop. (So be really careful and patient if you try this.) My 28" Snapper rider has always started on first pull until the last time I washed it down, and then no-start, even after days of dry out. First thought it was electrical, but I get spark and have the right resistances on coil and new plug. Will not start even with safety harness wire pulled off coil. So now I think it's fuel problem. I have had the gasoline in oil problem for years. So maybe the carb finally gave out? Or, did water somehow get in the gas? Today I drained everything and washed out gas tank, but don't have a working carb to test out. I ordered a $21 replacement carb on Amazon. It costs about the same as a new float from Briggs. If it doesn't work, I guess I'll have to try the $109 Briggs genuine replacement carb.
Hi Raley, I'm replacing the Nikki carb to a walbro also. I have a snapper rear engine 12.5 Briggs but I don't need the backfire solenoid. What size screw do I need to replace it?
How do I know how much to adjust the air fuel mix screw? Also, I set it up so it idles at low rpm then when I mow the lawn for a while and try to set my rpm’s down with the speed cable it never goes back to low rpms. 🤷🏻♂️
Hello Sir! 😀 I'm french and I really wanted to thank you for this video which helped me a lot to understand that I needed to change my Nikki carburetor for a Walbro. My only "problem" is that I have a B&S motor Series 3 130 (344cc) and the model number is 21B807-0138-B1. Do you think the model you have showed (594593) will be ok for my motor or do I need an other one? Please just an other little question from the rookie I am 😅: You don't talk about it in your video: no adjustment is necessary on the screws of the new carburetor? Is it "plug and play" ? Many thanks for your help. Regards from France. 😉
Glad it helped you. Use the one I showed in the video, it's plug and play. It should work just fine. Thanks for subscribing, watching and commenting my friend.
So i just bought a mower dirt cheap, i want to get it going to do my yard. It looks like someone at some point did all of the conversations you did in theis video, the shut off, the same filter and the walbro carb. Although the previous owners definitely did let the thing sit with bad gas, the walbro carb was full of jelled up fuel. It was hydrolocked with fuel, i cleaned the carb but could not get the main jet out but its wide open, carb clean straw goes all the way through it. Now im still having the same issues, it will quickly hydrolock on its own fuel, its got fuel in the oil, oil coming out the pcv, oil out the exhaust. Should i just buy another new carb? Or is this one too far gone and will have other issues?
The nikki carb can be rebuilt and you bettet have a ultra sonic cleaner if the motor sat for anywhere neat a yeat ot two wirh gas. I have 5 of rhem that are being a pain in the butt. I will be switching to a walboro as soon as I get the money to. 😅
i have several briggs with the nikkis,they work great for several years then throw them away and buy another nikki from the interscreen from china for a few bucks
My Intek 12.5 does not have a fuel solenoid. Is there another model Walbro that doesn't require the wire? Perhaps a different model Walbro without the solenoid?
Hello, so I purchased a genuine OEM Briggs & Stratton carburetor online thru Amazon. Around 95.00 Part number on the box is 594593. Wanting to replace Nikki carburetor that’s surging. The Actual part on the carburetor is 595210. Is that correct? The part looks right The fuel solenoid is shorter then the Nickie I’m not sure if that makes a difference. Thanks!
I had my Nikki off today, for the third time this spring! Crank case was full of gas. I had known about bending the plastic float part, and did it a couple years ago. I am about to pull the trigger on a Walbro, and be done with playing with the carb, four, five, and ten times per mowing season! Do you have a video on re[placing the cam shaft on a that same engine? Everyone else seems to only show the v twin intek, not the single cylinder models, and they, show the process very vaguely. They use lots of jargon and assume I know all about the engine and small engine repair. Why would I watch their video, if I had all the knowledge already? Can you help?
Yes, I have a cam shaft video. They are all easy to do. Just scroll through my channel and you will see it. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend
Briggs and Stratton model number 594593 is "out of stock" as per 05/26/2024. Sooooo....I found a compatible one on ebay with the same machined threads to mount the electric choke onto the new carb. It will not arrive until Friday May 31st. I will post an update.
Hello! 😀 I'm a little disappointed because I ordered and received the original Briggs and Stratton part 594593, I received the same box as you. My problem is that the carburetor I received looks exactly like the one you show in the video but I have an inscription under the Briggs and Stratton badge: 595210 and behind the carburetor I have another writing: RUIXING. Do you think this is normal? If you wish I can provide you with a link to view the photos I took. Thanks for your help! Kind regards from France 😉
Hello, just for information: today I swaped the Nikki carburetor to the Walbro 594593 and... the engine runs much better than before! 👍👍👍 Thanks very much Mr Raley for your explanations !!! Kind regards from France
If you don't see Nikki stamped on it, it's probably an aftermarket version. A Nikki style carburetor has 2 Phillips screws holding the bowl on. A Walbro only has the solenoid holding the bowl on.
T-Bone, love the channel. It's both educational and entertaining. Got a question on my Ariens riding mower. It has the Nikki carburetor and it surges when the blades are NOT engaged but smooths out when cutting grass. Thoughts? Do you suppose replacing with this style from B&S would fix the issue? I appreciate any insight.
I didn't mention that because I'm a dealer. They can be ordered from Ebay or Amazon but make sure it's OEM. You can also get one from your local mower shop.
I put a new oem carb on my mower and the throttle wants to run wide open. Could you by any chance tell me what to do to it. I have never had that problem before. Thank you sir.
Have a Question My mom has a Crapsman R110 and it has a Briggs on it and the Nikki Carb the part number is a 592224 Now it does not have the Wire coming of the bottom of the Float bowl I know that is a Solenoid to open a Jet So Can i still use this Carb and just run a Wire. Because this mower will run for a while get hot then shut off, I now run non eth gas but still seems to be a pain in my A$$ every year Ps i Have the Solenoid on my Dixie chopper but that's a Koehler V Twin so i do Recognize it
you got the walbro made in china that you you recomend for 100 bucks or so-- then there are the "other" chine versions for 20 bucks w- what is the diffrence besides price? arent they made in teh same factories
You won't need to do any of this crap if you would've added Seafoam to the gas once in awhile during the working season and for winter for storage which is also a fuel stabilizer.
Gas prices are too darn high, especially for the good stuff!. So I'm on my way to the Flea Market,....already have a harness! No more repairs and all thanks to you. Soon be mowing for free, just gotta lube up the sickle bar and look for a, healthy one, at the Market! Keep up the greatly informative and many times, hilarious videos! LOL! Valuable stuff in numerous ways! Thank you, always enjoyable, another admirer, WJB. Nice, TORCH TOUCH!!!!!
