Before I noticed the missing Romex connectors, another glaring code violation caught my attention. It appears the new LEDs are wired with 14/2 on a 20A circuit.14 gauge wire should only be used up to 15A. Either rewire with 12 gauge Romex or replace the 20A breaker with one that is 15A.
@@austinguiswite3137 good catch. I didn’t even think of that, mostly because when I add anything, I automatically get 12/2 w ground and not even bother with the 14.
Nice job but to avoid barriers use a stud finders to mark stud and fire block locations, also when fishing wire use a magnet to route the wire, this avoids having to cut extra holes in the ceiling. I'm an electrician, these are tricks of the trade.
ikr? Everything in the US is dry wall so it's easy to make changes, here in Europe the way you'd go about this would be to install what we call "fake ceilings" which is basically dry wall was well, but your regular concrete ceiling stays under it.
If your house's ceiling is wood panel it works just the same, the cutting just takes a little longer. Plenty of houses don't have concrete ceilings, flats, however, are a different thing.
I thought it was just me seeing that ceiling just like you said someone put mud on it like hell. Me as a DIY-er I can't install such beautiful lights with a horrible ceiling. I feel putting the fanciest suit on but with dusty or muddy shoes on.
Almost looked like it was supposed to be an Italian plaster finish. If it wasn't that, it really was a bad look and I could see where the holes were patched too! Better to get some all purpose mud and skim coat the thing and, for goodness sake, use flat paint on it!
Great informative video. But I believe I would use Romex connectors on my junction boxes. This holds the Romex in place and keeps it from being pulled out of the electrical connections. It also keeps it from rubbing on any sharp metal edges.
@@TechWithBrett I am curious about these lights; the junction boxes are very small. How many conductors are allowed in them? I am putting these in my bathroom renovation and I am using 12/2 cable. You appear to be using 14/2. NEC seems to indicate 2.25 sq inches per 12 gauge conductor in the box. If I do what you have done and use clamps, will I not have exceeded the provided box capacity? The ones I purchased do not have any description of the box capacity, they are very similar to the ones you installed. I wonder if a better way might be to use a transformer and supply only 24v DC to the lights in series.
You have to use non metallic push connector so the cable is secure in the jbox hole. Also will be better if you use wirenuts instead of those push in connectors. Lights are too close to the wall
What if you already have can lighting but you want to change them to these types of lights. I've already swit he'd them to led wafers but the screwed right into the light bulb socked so I didn't have to touch the wiring but I would like to switch to smart lights
Whoever it was did the same thing in my whole basement and I have considered ripping the whole thing out and starting over. I was the one that filled the holes.
I considered going with a traditional can and installing Philips Hue recessed lights in each can but that is around $55 per light where this was $30 per light and I didn't need to purchase a can. Long term I think this was a better option.
Dude nooooooooo you can run romex into a bare hole like that!!! I appreciate the DIY and project looks good but man make sure you are using the proper supplies. You can use the cheap plastic romex clamps and it will protect the wire from the metal edges of the box, surprised it didn’t come with them. Good job otherwise though!
How does this brand of led wafers perform with with the lutron caseta dimmer switch pd-6wcl...Do you get any issues...lutron site only have a few compatible led downlights...how did u know this onenwould work without any flickering or ghosting issues..thanks
not living in a drywall home sucks... every wall is basically solid concrete and installing cables is basically impossible after construction, scewing anything into the wall requires stone drill bits and a hammer drill
When you buy the romex push in connectors for the junction box knockouts, make sure you don't buy the Heavy duty types that I did. They were such a huge pain to install and then I changed the lights out for a different style and they were even worse to remove. I mangled the boxes going in and out because the sheet metal is so thin and the connector tabs were incredibly stiff. I guess I got the ones for breaker panels. However, I just found some that have a split in the side and they are really easy to install and then remove if you need to. they hold the wires really well. It made me cry and die inside when I tried them.
If that was the breaker for the room, you need to use 12 gage wire, as per code the 14 gage is only aloud to be "fused" up to 15 amps in most places. Also you need to use a box connector where ever the cable enters a box. Other than that nice work!
As others have mentioned the wires need to have the restraints in the cut out holes because you have cable against a sheet metal edge. If you ever get tired of that lighting, Globe electric makes a really nice dim to warm product line called Duo Bright. They’re water and dust rated, and insulation contact rated. They change color as you dim them, which is a very pleasing effect.
I would have first redone the ceilings, somebody did a bad job with the sheetrock compound and sanding. At the very least paint it a flat white, looks like there is a sheen.
I get how to kill the center old light and just use the power that was powering the old light and string it to each pod light. BUT what if I wanted to keep the center old light working as well?
Nice work. I went with Nicor's DLE line (6" in the ceilings and 4" in the bedroom closets). Is there no need to secure the Romex to each driver box with the appropriate fasteners? (In the knockout)?
I did this project in my Living room because it was Dark at night so I installed Square LED Thin Can lights with a normal switch on the ceiling Close to the ceiling of the Dining room and 2nd Floor Upstairs Living Space, then I used a Smart plug with a plug because we want it to be wireless and not touch it at all and we used a Receptacle connector connected to the cans, I also had a 1 Ceiling speaker and 2 surface Mount speakers I installed before the can lights were installed, it was a high ceiling but it was installed in the edges close to the 2nd Floor Balcony, where you see The Downstairs Living room. Years later I installed LED RGBICW LED Strip to make it like a modern home and was only turned on if the Other lights were off and the TV was on as accent Lighting
I don't know who mudded your ceiling, but you need to get your money back. So bad! If you use the lights on the 3000-5000k setting, they will show every defect.
So funny watching American houses. They seem like playhouses where you can poke and make holes everywhere. I guess it makes DIY easier than in the reinforced concrete fortresses we have to build in my country :-)
Are all 9 cans on one switch, or on that one light outlet? I want to add some much needed light down in my basement, but there is only 2 lights attached to my switch. If I can replace the 1 (one is at the base of the stairs, the other is in a different room) at the base of the stairs with some cans like those spread out without overloading anything and still be safe then I might have to do that.
@@TechWithBrett Thanks for the update. If I do follow through it would be max 6, its mainly to replace 1 pull cord light further in the basement, and of course to replace the one bulb at the base of the stairs.
Nice work Brett, since it very simple to access the electrical boxes on the recessed lights, just get a dozen romex connecters and reset the romex wires in the boxes, Proper and Safe wiring. Before an electrical inspector on RU-vid see it, and I can stop worrying. Stay Safe.
So on the actually light that is only changing the color temperature and not the brightness of light. So you have to change temperature on the light but the brightness is from the switch.
@@TechWithBrett the Play Gradient wasn't out yet but here is my tik tok video of my setup vm.tiktok.com/ZMe1UDq92/ Also here is some additional lights I have in my setup. vm.tiktok.com/ZMe1U6AeP/
Replace it?? Should last more than 30,000 hours though. Even if you can't get that manufacturer any more, just pull down the old light and the junction box and buy a new, very similar one. Yeah, it's not unscrew and screw in easy like an incandescent or cfl bulb, but not terribly complicated either.
Works exactly the same in almost every house I've seen in Europe, flats are of course different thing as your ceiling is at the same time the floor of the upstairs neighbour. Which is also the same situation in the US 😉
@@iLoveTheseRemoras well dosn't work in my House and wont work in other houses I know around here. You can't drill such giant holes in concrete ceilings.
I’ve worked with these plenty of times. If you cut your hole to the right size with a hole saw, you won’t have any air gap issues. I keep my 4 inch and 6 inch hole saws in my box. Those two springs are very strong and will hold it snug against the drywall. They will snap your finger too so watch out. For those bulbs that are wet area rated, they come with a ring gasket that goes around the top lip of the wafer to work as a moisture barrier. I’ve installed those over my shower and bath tub.
I watch alot of these remolding videos. It seems I never see strapped ceilings in them. The drywall is screwed right to the joists. I did all my work in Massachusetts, and every ceiling is strapped with 3/4" pine perpendicular with the joists. For several reasons. Are we the only place in the country that does things right?
Yes I like the strapping especially for running the wires but new codes wouldn't allow batt insulation on the strapping in our new addition. Inspector said our options were cellulose fill or foam for the roof.
As a professional lighting designer, these lights are the worst way to light a room that isn’t a morgue! The beam angle is way too wide, there is excessive glare and the colour temperature is way too cool. Also a grid arrangement is very bad design, the only spaces this arrangement is good for would be a perhaps a workshop space with requirements for blanket illumination. This is terrible for a domestic setting. The light emitting elements should not be visible in the space, the light should be directed to where it’s needed and ideally should have some ‘rise and fall’ to help the room feel more homely. Also warmer colour temperatures such as 2700k is more suitable. Fair play for making a good video but this is really not a good design for most people.
