Broken Pioneer CD Player, is it fixable? | Vintage Hifi Revival 

Same here. I love to tinker with electronics, and of course have a 3D printer!

From comments I’m seeing it seems be a bit of a miracle it is working as well as it is haha. I haven’t had a single issue with it since putting it back together with zero calibration, maybe I’ve just jinxed it though haha.

also, when you're using epoxy to fix a structural support like that, something you can do to make it stronger is to drill small holes in the material so that the epoxy can surround the plastic, and you can put metal mesh around the piece to reinforce it

I thought about drilling a hole in it, but the smallest drill I had was 1/16 inch and I didn't trust my ability to not completely destroy the part while drilling it haha

@@HifiJelly yeah, i'm not trying to criticize. i understand we all work with what we have sometimes. i have been doing this kind of repairs you also do for a long time, so i only wanted to pass on my experience. i enjoy your videos, please keep making them

lol

that's boring, using a CD player from the 80s, especially one that was a high end model is much more fun, buying a high end model for $10 because it doesn't then fixing it and using it is much more enjoyable.

@nickfatsis9607 yeah good luck finding a working one that players ever cd. 80 minute cds ruined vintage players.

@@simon_1987 I don't need to find a working one, I service them and bring them back to life, I've never seen a CD player than couldn't play an 80 minute CD, older CD players can sometimes have difficulty playing burnt CDs, that's because a burnt CD has a lower waveform output than a commercially pressed CD, I actually seek out CD players that don't work for cheap, so I can repair them, I make good money selling them after repairing them.

@nickfatsis9607 you sound fun. I only listen to cds in the car because the Internet ducks more dick than my trans brother

The motor was never broken, that was just a theory I had going into it, I'm guessing it wasn't spinning the disk much when I first tried it because there was no signal from the disc being generated with the lens loose in its housing. So, it was just erroring out and stopping the disc from coming up to full speed.

@@HifiJelly clear! Thanks!

I thought what is this? A CD player for bees?

Hard drives are mechanical :)

@@xaverlustig3581 SSD hard drives are not.

@@nickfatsis9607 SSD aren't hard drives

@@xaverlustig3581 since when? A HDD and a SSD only differ by one having a spinning disk and the other having no moving parts, an SSD is still a “hard drive” because it’s usually when your OS system is stored

@@nickfatsis9607 SSD and HDD perform the same function, but the word "hard drive" is short for "hard disk drive" (HDD) and refers to devices with spinning disks only. Calling an SSD a "hard drive" is simply wrong, even if some people do it.

Huh, I was pretty close to using super glue, I went with a more gel like glue because I figured it be easy to apply; guess I lucked out haha

@@HifiJelly you should never use super glue to glue these lenses in, the vapours from the glue will permanently fog the lens, I use wood PVA glue, no vapours and gives a great bond.

I know! This channel rocks! When I got the notification this a.m. I got all happy 👍

Thank you!

Thanks! and yep the track counter seems to work fine. I think it only shows the minute counter when fast forwarding/rewinding to show you at what minute you're at.

Possibly used by a DJ/Karaoke as we used to take the feet off to make more space in the rack. but they did skip and jump.

I just use my phone haha, it’s an iPhone 12 Pro Max.

@@HifiJellyThanks! Looking forward to your next upload!👍

Haha thanks! I got it solely for that great VF spectrum analyzer.

Thanks!

@@HifiJelly Just a word of caution and so you know for the future endeavors with CD players the ribbon cable that had the two solder spots is to be bridged BEFORE you remove the ribbon cable, once you remove the connectors from the laser assembly it is vulnerable static damage you are very lucky it didn't get zapped thus killing the laser itself. EVERY laser pickup has a spot to protect the laser from static damage. Just don't forget to clear it once once the connection(s) are restored to the laser pickup. The sled and spindle motors aren't static sensitive so no need to short those. Bridging the laser protection is only necessary if you disconnect the laser connector from the pick up. Great job make sure everything moves freely sled motor and spindle motor and that unit should last a VERY LONG time. Another poster wrote about the type of glue to use, DO NOT use super glue use wood glue it doesn't put off any gases harmful to the internal optics. Let the wood glue throughly dry and you should be all set for a great many ah hours of CD listening enjoyment. They certainly don't make CD players like that anymore. Now a days pretty much the only metal is the motors MAYBE the frame that holds the motors, other wise its practically ALL plastic inside modern made CD players. Unless you pay 1000s for an audiophile type transport (external DAC) usually required for those too.

Thanks! I was wondering what those exposed solder points on the ribbon cable were, and that explains it!

@@HifiJelly You're welcome hopefully that will save you from static accidents in future repairs on that unit or future DVD/CD player units too.

Yeah, Technology Connections has a great video demonstrating the difference between the Philips swing arm and the Sony type mech I have here.

It has all Sony chips, 1 Mitsubishi chip and 1 pioneer chip which I believe is only for a controller. Illusion of choice

You need to plug it into an amplifier which would be connected to speakers.

Haha Thanks!