Thanks for the video. Great clamping idea. Maple is not as easy in gluing as mahogany or walnut, but you seemed to have solved that problem with your clamping setup. Hopefully, the hide glue will hold. I repaired a break like that about ten years ago but used small amounts of epoxy. I know that's not traditional, but it's still holding well. The strings exert quite a bit of pressure on the peghead.
Thanks for the comment. I think Maple is much easier to glue than wood with big pores. especially with hide glue, which flows very well. Also it is transparent, varnish friendly and repair-friendly. Since the break was not a flat joint, i am sure this will hold as long the pegs have a nice fitting/setting with without to much pressure on the box.
I"m surprised yellow glue wasn't used. It makes a bond stronger than the surrounding wood. Working time isn't very long so everything has to go together pretty quickly, but it is a vastly superior glue.
@@laurencelance586 sure, hide glue is the most reversible glue, but not waterproof at all. Most guitar maker btw don't use that hide glue but its the standard glue for violin makers.
I am sorry, but you just glued the two pieces with no ;patches at all? I would assume on both sides patches should be executed as well. Or is this job just half done?
One of the pegs goes through the glued hole exerting centrifugal forces two of which will meet the glued surfaces perpendicularly causing magnified stress. It won’t hold even if welded. As someone already mentioned at least patch it. Or better yet rejoin the broken parts using another lumber and re-carve the peg hole.
The point of hide glue is so you can take apart the violin later for repairs, since the glue breaks before the wood does. In an operation like this, you NEVER want this to come apart, so you want the strongest glue right? Why use hide glue? Why not just use a much stronger glue? Nobody should ever take that apart again!
Hide glue is very strong just not water proof as the rest of the instrument is not. The repair- and ´come apart´ joints in fact have to be glued with very watery hide glue to come apart. We place pads to secure cracks and hide glue is much better for color and violin varnish repair work afterwards.
Is there a follow up for the cosmetic touching up? I just did the same repair on a violin with a broken headstock like that I couldn't clamp it without it sliding out of place so I just did it by hand without any clamps putting a peg in a peg hole to help with alignment I just need to touch it up now It's a Stentor
Do you have any full content of violin making and restoring instructional book references? I'm in search of a violin Varnishing, Polishing, and Retouching book, all of it (including various recipes, and those delicate techniques). Well i'm an amateur restorer, just to make sure that i'm not going to Varnish an old instrument in my own way =>
yes but NO, i don't use modern glue because it is not reversible and a big contra for glue & varnish jobs, also not as easy to work with. As long as its stronger (secured with patches) it must be ok and will break next to the repair work in an extreme situation. The Humidity-factor influencing traditional glue is not relevant to me.
@@pipatp1288 wood glue is stronger than the original bond of wood so I don't see your point. Replacing a neck is ideal but sometimes the instrument is not worth the hassle or value.
