For me, a Brooks saddle combined with flat pedals equals complete freedom. I dont have to wear special padded shorts or special shoes. I can cycle in whatever I want. Those two changes alone have liberated my cycling.
I just bought a B67 from an antique shop. It's new and hasn't even been treated with proofide yet. I have wanted a Brooks saddle ever since I bought my cargo bike a few years ago. I remember, as a child 50 or 60 years ago, we were always arguing over who was going to ride a neighbours bike as it was so comfortable. Of course it had a Brooks saddle. We all wanted to ride it every time we rode together. I didn't remember "his" bike until I got my cargo bike recently and it triggered my memory. Great video!
I have a can of proof hide that I bought with my first brooks saddle in 2010. I have two saddles on two bikes, I haven’t been stingy on the use of it, nor do I overuse it. I’m just now getting to the point where I’m thinking of getting another can, it really does go a long way. I’ve noticed that I need to use it about twice a year on the bike that stays outside.
A couple of random thoughts.... This is a good video that touches a lot of points. I bought a Brooks Flyer almost 10 years ago and am generally satisfied with it, although I'm not a Brooks fanboy. I found that mine took in a lot longer than I expected to break in. After four months of sore spots, I was about to give up on it. At that point, I took it out for one more ride and somehow found that somehow it conformed to my butt, or my butt had learned to conform to the saddle. I'm not sure which, but it became comfortable. I do use Brooks' Proofide, and think it's a good (but somewhat pricy) product. One thing that no one seems to mention is that the springs are very stiff and seem to absorb only the largest bumps. The leather has held up well, but I think part of that is that I treat it often enough to keep it supple. Overall, I'm generally satisfied with it.
That's actually a really good note about the springs! The springs on Brooks Fleyers are built from a pretty thick gauge of metal to contribute first to the longevity of the structure as a whole, but also to make the Flyer itself more broadly suitable for a wider variety of use cases. I'm glad to hear you've made it work for you though! To any others reading this, however, if you found it to be something you absolutely could not compromise on, you could consider the B67 or B73 as they have a very slightly lighter gauge spring wire! Only slightly though -- so you'll want to consider how much that might impact you before you go to the trouble.
Thank you, very very very useful , complete presentation. Yes Brooks Saddles are work of an art and the most virtual quality of a Saddle, nothing comes even close to the design and workmanship.
Nice video. I love my B67. I also love the copper rivets. I found out that made a B67 select with copper rivets several years ago. I've been thinking of changing the rivets to copper(12.5mm) for some time now. I looked online & can't find any B67 selects(new) for sale anywhere so it looks like they don't sell them anymore. Maybe I'll eventually get a flyer special. My B67 has been all over the US. Another thing I noticed is that the Brooks rain cover peels off a thin layer of leather when I would remove it after riding on it for any length of time. I didn't like that. Happy trails.
While yes the B17 is the heart of the lineup and a big focus in the video, we made chapters so you can see all the saddles covered and jump to where you are interested! If you are referring to the cambium- those are not leather (if you look at the title of this video "...Leather Saddle Product Guide") and will be covered separately in a future video.
The shapes are actually the same. I would normally select the B17 as the Flyer is effectively a B17 with sprung rails and I find the springs a little soft for my size (I'm over 220 lbs/100kgs) and I tend to kind of bounce on the springs. Fun on a klunker or a cruiser bike but IMO a bit annoying for a long haul. That being said - you might find the springs are good for dampening bumps on harsh roads. I've also heard the opposite experience with the flyer saying the springs are too stiff. But I would suggest a B17 and practice unweighing the saddle over rough or uneven ground whenever possible
Thanks for sharing such a great video. Something important that is missing however is how to clean the saddle. Especially underneath when it gets dirty with mud, should i scrape it with a toothbrush or something?
Well, the first thing to do is to get some fenders or mudguards on your bike to keep mud and moisture off your saddle in the first place! I did gravel for years on my Brooks Swift (without fenders, no less), and mud is best left to dry out, and it should flake off. Use a soft brush (or as you mentioned, a toothbrush is fine) and then a lightly dampened cloth to get the excess dirt off. You can repeat as necessary allowing time to dry between. And possibly finish with a tiny bit of Proofide if the leather feels dry. But the reality is, mud means moisture and the moisture isn't good for the leather. I did a particularly rainy, muddy gravel event and the shape of my Brooks Swift saddle changed forever after that day. So all told... Fenders are your friend. -Owen
@@urbane-cyclistThanks for the quick reply. Yeah, against water, fenders are undoubtedly the best option; not just for Brooks but for everything on the bike (drivechain, frame, fork). So when you frequently encounter water it is the only solution. However, there are cases like mine living in Athens where it is very rarely encountered. After hundreds of hours cycling, I came up with a muddy section for the first time in my life and I went through it without much thought. It was only a few minutes but enough to spray mud everywhere. Thus, in my case, learning a way to clean Brooks is more suited than having fenders constantly so thanks for the advice, I will promptly try it out. Similar advice came up when I searched about cleaning leather boots, since it's a similar case. Finally, next time I am about to go against water without fenders, I will also have a plastic bag available to cover the whole saddle. The Brooks cover is good at protecting from above and the sides but it comes short underneath, at least in my Flyer model which has bulky springs. Take care.
Fantastic video! I pulled out my old B67 I got used a several years back. It’s got a pretty worn patina which I like, but It’s blotchy in areas. Any tips on smoothing over? Thank you kindly! 😊
Good question! I've found that the Honey Brown is the most prone to a blotchy look but this is usually only after it gets wet. The Antique brown can show this a little too but its less prominent. In either case a treatment of Brooks proofide may help disguise and minimize the blotchy look as it will tend to slightly darken the saddle overall. Hope that helps! -Owen
I have been using a Brooks B17S for about a year now with the lacing holes in the sides. I just purchased a standard B17 without the lace holes. I like the lace holes because it moves those "curtains" out of the way. I am thinking of punching some lace holes into my newly purchased standard B17. Do you see any problem with me doing that. I already ordered a proper leather punch tool and I have some paracord I plan to use for the lace.
I've seen people retroactively punching holes to add laces with some success, but generally that splay shouldn't happen unless the saddle has gotten wet or perhaps run at a low tension for some time. Some people even trim off those sides entirely. But if there are already deforming I think there's not much to lose at this point!
I explained this at 6:28 in the video and also clarify that it's a personal preference. If you are riding just mellow not particularly technical trails Brooks would do fine. The main MTB trail system here in Toronto is the Don valley which is a ravine system with lots of elevation which means you are back and forth on the saddle regularly and if you rode a brooks you'd be sitting on the metal front or back. If you don't mind that... Go for it!
I have a b17 narrow. Brompton rider. I didn’t realise it’s not recommended. Should I change? I don’t feel any difference between narrow and the normal . The narrow is very comfortable.
If the narrow works for you - keep riding it! My point in the video is many people are stuck choosing between the narrow and standard when making their first choice and for most people the standard is the move. But of course different strokes for different folks- that's why they make so many variations! Thanks for watching -Owen
Okay, I have a question Ill watch the whole video maybe it answers me. My friend got this really nice custom beach cruiser and it had a bell gel seat cover on it. I was just looking it over I took that cover off and boom a brooks 😮 the leather had a crack in it and I told him what I know about them and showed how much they cost new is there a way to get the leather repaired? Can you send it back and pay to get it fixed? He has no interest in it but I do I can probably get it for free. I mentioned to himI got a nice cushiony seat to give him in exchange and he said he's with it.
Once the leather is cracked it's likely been completely dry for a long time, maybe also exposed to the elements. The fibers in the leather are cracked so even after rehydration it will likely still continue to grow. You can try to fix it but you're likely just buying some time. Worst case scenario you will likely learn something along the way! Good luck!
Congrats, impressive description! I need help. My saddle got wet and I didn't dry it properly. Now it is deformed and I don't know how to return to its original shape. please help me 🙏
There's no guarantee that you can get it back to what it once was but you can likely get it better then it is now. I would remove it from your bike, and start by using rags (old tee shirt/socks whatever you have) and jam them under the saddle to encourage the saddle to even out...you would likely want to use some water (I would be cautious with spray bottle) to help hydrate to reform the leather. I would probably use a flat strap/ribbon to snugly wrap the saddle to make sure the shape holds and let it dry completely. Its not a sure thing but its worth a try. I would also look up some leather craft videos for best techniques. Also don't forget to proofide once its all dry! Worst case senario...you buy a new saddle BUT also a cover ;)
Leather is a natural material so dyes (particularly aftermarket additional ones) may leech out and stain clothing. I Think it is likely possible but I have no experience on the subject but I'm sure there is more leather dying videos available elsewhere on RU-vid! Best of luck -Owen
@@georgkampmann7330 as a leather craftsman black is a very difficult colour to use to change the leather colour mainly because it seems to always keep "leaking" out. Other colours can be more of a dye that penetrates the surface and excess can be wiped off with little to no "leaking" of the dye. Black leather in particular is dyed black in the process of making the leather, I suspect the other Brooks colours are also dyed in this fashion to have greater uniformity in the saddle colours. The edges are typically dyed after cutting and forming of the saddle.
I tried the B17 for about 600-700 km and struggled with excess pressure in the front soft tissues. I have narrow sit bones and I'm wondering if I should've tried the Swift or swallow. Or maybe the carved.
It does depend on the fit of your bike- so its a little hard to say without seeing you on the bike with you on it! The Carved is a possible solution but the Swift and Swallow feel firmer than the B17 in my experience - so if you haven't already treated your saddle with brooks proofide that can help soften you saddle substantially. I might try moving the saddle forward a bit on the rails and make sure its level. If you do that have treated the leather appropriately and its still not feeling right it might be a good idea to get fitted on the bike to help get in the correct position with that saddle or see if the B17 is actually a good fit for you! I would note- if you bars are significantly lower than your saddle I find that front soft tissue discomfort can be a bit of an issue and I may opt for a alternative to Brooks in these cases.
@@urbane-cyclist one other option that I have found is to slightly reduce the saddle tension for breaking in the saddle. This allows the leather to flex and start conforming to your rear end, after a while you can start to increase the tension to maintain "the fit". Some new Brooks saddles do seem stiffer than others so this could be part of the difference people experience breaking in a new Brooks saddle.
I'm a Brooks Cambium user, I find the C15 works for me better than the C17. And am considering the leather (B-series). Should I go with a B15 or the Swallow model? I'm kinda asking if the Cambiums shape/size are a direct representation of their corresponding B-series.
I find the Brooks Cambium are quite different for the actual feel vs. the leather counter parts. Technically the swallow would likely be the closest match IMO.
Thanks for this informative video. I've ordered new bike, that will have B17 preinstalled. I don't have experience with leather saddles so far. One question though, once saddle breaks in is it meant to be ridden with or without padded shorts? I wonder if this will be comfortable over longer rides like +30km one one ride?
Riding in padded or unpadded shorts is just personal preference. Padded shorts will likely be a safer bet if the B17 is not broken in yet. Most important would be to treat the saddle with some proofide before riding to help soften and shorten the break-in period. I personally ride most often without padded shorts but if I'm planning to ride more than 2.5- 3 hours I will opt for a little extra padding to play it safe! During the initial setup I tend to like not using the padded short so I can sense any discomfort and adjust the saddle height and angle accordingly. You may need to slightly adjust saddle height with padded shorts if did the setup without. -Owen
This was great video. Thank you. I have the swallow and the professional. My sit bones are 120mm wide. The people at brooks recommended the professional. I have the swallow on my road bike, was wondering if there is any advantage to swapping from the swallow to the professional? Love these saddles and really like the chrome rivets on my swallow, but sometimes feel may be a bit narrow for my wide butt. Can you share some thoughts on how to decide which I should stick with? The bike is a Lyskey Helix and there is a decent drop from seat to handlebars.
I might consider even trying out a B17 if you find the Swallow or Professional don't support your sit bones. If your back is not quite at that 45 degree angle and is a little less aggressive and closer to the 60 degree mark, that might be the way to go. And as a Brooks enthusiast, I don't personally love a very aggressive road posture with my Brooks, but this is a very individual preference. I opt for a more neutral (closer to 55-60 degree) fit for road or gravel riding. Hope that helps! -Owen
@@urbane-cyclist appreciate it. I really can’t tell if the swallow is too narrow or not. Will try the professional this week and see if I notice a difference over 50 miles. The swallow is slightly narrower than the professional. Been using professional on trainer to break in. But I feel true test will be on the bike I ride outdoors. Will update. Thanks again. Great video
Trainers are really the test of a saddle and bike fit. Since you end up a little more locked into the same position while riding a trainer its essentially the worst case scenario for saddle comfort (or sometimes lack thereof). If you are still having issues and haven't already done so I may also consider a bike fit to help dial in the overall sizing and setup!
But what about gravel riding, we hit a lot of wet spots. I wear cowboy boots and they go through hell. These saddles cost the same as my boots and my boots last 10 years with the products I use. Also what about sweat??? For how expensive these are I figured they would not have any issue with getting wet.
Proofide treatment does wonders to help resist water. A few puddles won't be a problem. Similarly your cowboy boots are not rubber boots and you wouldn't want to wade into deep water right? The saddle is supported at the front and back - so if you are riding while wet it will be prone to become mishapen or stretch - just like your cowboy boots would if saturated (water is often an integral part of leather forming)! A puddle here and there won't kill the saddle but you don't want to get them super wet and keep riding if possible - its always best to let it air dry. For example I rode a 100 mile gravel event on my Brooks Swift and it was torrential rain all day for 7+ hours of riding...I still have the saddle and rode it regularly for about 8+ years but it was never quite the same shape after that day. It ended up stretching out a bit and dipping in the middle and I had to increase tension substantially on the nose bolt to not bottom out. That being said- it was still very comfortable and continued to ride to for thousands of miles and I still love that saddle but I decreased it's functional life by abusing it that one day! Sweat doesn't hurt them if they are treated accordingly - but the honey colour can be more prone to some staining/discoloration or darkening. And frankly a simple remedy if you hit lots of wet spots and want to run a brooks...just a little clip on rear fender will greatly help keep mud and water off the saddle! -Owen
