Thank you. its really only only one part/bolt/wire at a time stuff which comes together at the end. Personally I'm glad that Bruder stick to what they are great at & leave something for the 'modders' to tinker with. I'm hoping that the 3D printing thing should make doing these conversions much more accessible to more people (ie cheaper, easier & quicker). 😀👍
Yes ... that's what I was looking for. I knew something must be made for the job - sometimes its just knowing what its called - like the 3D printer lead screw - found small cheap ones on Ebay & got ordered up. I was holding off doing that stage until I at least had a rough idea on how I was going to overcome that. Thank you for your kind comments on the build & have a great day 👍😀
Thank you. I have now refined this further - with a 3D printed version, with self contained travel limiters. I'll have to revisit at some point with a new video series ..... 😉👍
yes own esc for all motor.get a 2 wire output esc.for you to use your own transmitter. unless you want to use a Bruselas motor.its 3 wire esc for brushless motor.he uses 2 wire motor.
Thank you! I have since made improvements to this design - using 3D parts to make a self contained linear servo, including travel limits. I hope to get round to making a video series showing the updates. 😀👍
@@RCModders nice.i have the huina 550.upgraded servo actuator. I need to put the limit.i have same diagram but i just couldn't figure out until o saw your video.now it kinda reminded me the diode. Very clever.i didn't think about.i remember doide is to rectify or amplify current. and only one direction. Your video made all sense now.
@@RCModders yes you have help me so much.the puzzle has solve for.i successfully installed a limit switch for my excavator. i have used wire to pull the limit switch because my excavator boom is so tigh,so i used wire so i can put the limit switch anywhere i want.
This excavator has been totally remodelled - using an 8000 Mah 12v system (see the video I published today). The motors in this video were rated at 6v, so a max of 2s (7.4v) or 6 cells (7.2v) is prob recommended. 3s (11.1v) would prob damage the motors if used for any time. Its the volts rather than the amps (ampere) that matters for this.
Hi. It would seem that Horizon hobby have discontinued both the DX10T (the one that I have) and the DX18T (the one that came after). These do have additional buttons on the sticks, which might make them even better. If I didn't already have one, I would probably look for a used on one Ebay. However any aircraft transmitter with at least 6 channels should work OK (ideally with the spring enabled to centre the left stick and programming functions to change what the right stick controls). Hope this helps! 😃👍
how are you planning on preventing the wires twisting? i think 4 hoops of a conductive metal, each fitting inside the others with something like bearings that run over each of them that could run the power through, mounted between the bottom and top moving parts around the swivel... pretty tricky to explain... hopefully you understand what im getting at... thats assuming your using only 2 brushed motors as you would need 2 hoops per motor (3 if brushless) just think of 4 of the old mechanical esc's, only 4 different sizes and mounted 1 inside the other inside the other ect... obviously a solid track though as you only need it to transfer power across and not control speed i can email you a sketch of what i mean if im making no sense here... thats the only mechanical way i could think that would work and be relatively easy... if you have another idea im looking forward to seeing what that is... everything else seems too complicated out of the ideas i have had...
just thinking, bearings alone could work... 4 different sizes as long as they could fit inside eachother... inner race you could have input and outer race output x4. or maybe bearings same size but stacked... as long as there was enough space for the wires to run inside them along with the swivel mechanism of the bruder...
I can see what you mean. I'm hoping there is something commercially available that is not expensive (I want to keep these builds affordable & do-able for lots of people as far as possible - although the lathe is occasionally a bit unavoidable). I think it can be done by having the base effectively as a separate model & using 2 receivers and 2 batteries, with Spektrum model match on a computer radio it would be easy to switch between the two. This would be my 'plan b' though 🙂👍
@@RCModders whats the plan to make the swivel, swivel? n20 with a wheel that rolls 1 half against the other? that or a modded servo would probably be simplest way
I think a variation on your idea might be a good way of transferring power and control for the legs and ramps on the low loader from the 5th wheel on the semi truck tractor unit when i get to that 👍
typical pom...making something harder than it needs to be...ditch the Bruder crap , buy a Huina 1550 or 1592 , spend a few dollars or pounds and buy the kit and do it properly with worm drive actuators if you are not happy with the factory set up ..Bruder is trash compared to Huina...
😂😂 typical pom that’s me! 😂😂 the bruder conversion turned out pretty good in the end. It was the challenge more than anything that attracted me to do this. And I learned a lot. I’m currently putting together a Lesu P360 - that’s proper stuff for digging!
