Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ru-vid.comUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
I did the same thing w junk mowers when I was 14 or 15, cut front of deck out and bolted a garden rake to the opening in front. Used another handle in front cut off to push tall grass to both sides. Hired out to neighbors for stuff they didn't want their lawns mowers exposed to.
I was thinking this thing was maybe going to go after some small saplings but instead it was just used on some weeds that could have been cut with the mower that it was started with. That was a lot of work to sucker me into watching and commenting.
I agree. Decidedly unimpressed. I have that B&S engine on a similar mower which I converted with 4 big wheels and none of the fancy equipment this guy has. It cuts that brush just the same, although the engine is under-powered for the job..
Dangerous as all get out but I LOVE IT! With great power comes great responsibility. I wish I had one of these a few years ago when I had a field up against my back yard - the only thing was a DR brush mower but that didn't seem to be the best option so I just mowed it with a normal gas mower a little at a time. Nice build!
Great build. Nice small baby bush hog for those small jobs... Going bigger, use a heavy spindle quill and a belt to protect the crankshaft, though you might be surprised how much big stuff this one can handle..
The second you hit anything of any significant resistance the shaft will bend. Good for tall grass. There is also a swinging blade that would work great on this.
Wrong I have had 20 of these mowers that I have built. I did not have the left front wheel on mine installed and I was bending the blade every 10 to 15 minutes because I could not see the ruts in the ground from the farm equipment and I was putting a almost a 90° bend on the blade. I would stick it in the back of the pickup truck. And bend it back to straight and I would reinstall it. I must have done that like 10 different times and Mower was absolutely fine. I was only hitting dirt. I was not hitting something solid though.
I copied your design but I used form ply for the deck and an old car tyre for the skirt. But I replaced the front wheels with skids and increased the distance between the rear wheels. It works great but I am going to find a bigger motor for it as it bogs down on some areas with larger saplings. Thanks for the upload and inspiration.
I rented the billy goat to clear my grandfathers land (20 years no maintenance) and man does that thing work .... now I've got to find something that can handle all the vines, they have clogged any and every th ing that touches out there
Well, I do have to say more time, thought and effort went into this and will have to build my own when what I have dies. I honestly took the old Honda self propelled push mower I have and cut the front off the deck
Keep the origiinal swivel blades-that way if you hit something really hard-you have some "give" to protect the motor crankshaft. Another thought is to add a belt drive from the motor to the blade spindle-the belt absorbs shock if you use the one peice fixed blade.
Belt drive definitely the cheap and cheerful way to make engines last under this type of workload. Every direct drive chipper/shredder is prone to bent shaft syndrome even with flail style knives.
Also put the swivel blade rotor back on and your brushcutter should be able to withstand anything!If one or more of the blades get damaged from "close encounters"-less problems!Happy brushcutting!!!Maybe you can hire out to do brush jobs.
After watching it run, I would add a guard coming up from the deck in front of the engine, take the front wheels and reposition them inside the front supports to remove catching brush between them and the deck, other than that impressive.!
Your mower blade has a hole in the center, through which the shaft passes. If the blade hits something heavy, the shaft gets bent. The key to a brush hog's ability to cut large trunks is 1) much slower RPM's, 2) much heavier blades, and 3) the blades' ability to swivel because they are not attached to directly to the shaft -- they are attached to the stump guard disk, which enables the blades to swing when they hit heavy trunks, without damaging the mower.
U know...U could have just chopped the original deck open at the front and sides, keeping the flailing blades and save yourself a bunch of time...or...better yet, just get yourself an old Schnappa riding mower and call it a day....Great craftsmanship btw...Cheers...
Doesn't work, Mitch! The strength in almost all mower decks is in the skirt. Cut that away and you have something so floppy as to be unworkable and downright dangerous. Sure, you can weld strength back into it , but then you run into issues with carby access and height adjustment. I think beer n bolts is on the right track, except for his front wheels in heavy growth, which, lets face it. is when you really want the thing to clear the cut grass instantly.
So while I'm looking for some bits to make a tree mulcher, bugger me, a fully equipped machine shop behind a bush. Then I went to my fave shop and bought one.
I can do this with nothing more than a basic welding machine, a drill and an angle grinder. I’ll take a lot longer and might not AS precise, but it can be done and the loss of precision in this application doesn’t much matter.
My neighbor hit a big root first time with their brand new mower. The crank got bent and wouldn't turn. I chained it to my deck post on its side and unbent it with long piece of water pipe fit over the shaft. I think he still uses it.
I’ve grew up and play with push mower and even had one beat up push mower only for the bushes but I had to have lots of fly wheel “keys” as back up whenever I hit rock or stumps it damaged the key. That’s reasons why the store sells bush whacker mowers have belts to turn blades so the it will slip as blade hit rocks or stumps to save the key in flywheel .
I can’t believe I found this because I making about the same thing for cutting weeds in my swamp! Love the front teeth hadn’t thought about that! Only other thing I’m doing is putting 24” bike tires on it to be able to deal with mud/water!
I love the way that you made it and it will cut great for lots of stuff . Just wondering if for bigger stuff, putting bigger diameter wheels on the front and a swivel wheel on the back . Would love to see how this idea, works . 🤗👍💫
I built something like that out of one of my mowers just cut the front of the deck close to the front wheels and folded the deck back to the deck shielded the motor and the blade cuts everything in its path we call it the monster works great I like your deal too good job god bless
If the grass could see, that beast would scare them into oblivion but I doubt it is any more effective than its donor unit. In fact those wide wheels would likely cause undesired matting.
The whole point of a bush hog is that the blades are able to rotate on their mounting points so that you can hit big trees and stumps without the blades coming to a stop and damaging things. If you had done that one thing it would have been much more capable. And with your skills im sure you could easily make it happen.
Not sure of the thickness of saplings it can cut down...but on my Sthil commercial weed eater, i got a saw blade for it...cuts the small saplings..but I got tired of changing that head out to my other head..so just bought a used weed eater and kept the saw blade on it..for I didn't need to use it very often...mostly to keep the forests and black berry bushes back on each side of the driveways.....works fine for this older gal...but good luck...
Start with an older Toro GTS (THIS STANDS FOR GURANTEED TO START ) 3 speed mower. Leave the right front wheel but expose 2 inches of the deck all the way around to 10 o'clock. Reinstall the left front wheel at 9 o'clock. / I have made 20 or more of these in the last 10 years. And I nickname this the death machine. / I have had to install some mesh from a screen door On the top of the mower to keep the debris from getting down inside the top of the mower. on one of my trips driving home. The top of my mower looks like an Indian smoke signal. / But before installing the screen on top of the mower, I accidentally melted one of my coil wires.
PLEASE DO! @franklingrebbo This thing is a great concept. You are the doctor, but mine will have an alignment guard similar to yours with the addition extended and curved "teeth", same as here but then downward just past the blade tips. That way, the grass and big weeds will enter just as before, but larger unwanted objects will HELP to prevent forward movement of the mower or entry of something you dont want. That is, just extend then curve the teeth downward a bit in front of the blade path. Well done here!
The equipment you have is impressive, way more than ANY , EVEN OBSESSED handyman would have . Also the mower turned out nicely, looks like the uss enterprise. But nice job
Beautiful work, and it shows off a shop most of us can’t afford. But cut out the front of the housing on the original mower and stick on taller wheels, and you have pretty much the same thing - with the same weaknesses. If you’re serious about real brush, lose the one-piece solid blade on the crankshaft and make a “bush hog” setup with a pair of hub mounted blades that can absorb impact and pivot back when necessary. We’ve mowed tall grass and light brush with a riding mower, keeping the deck at max height. But its blades are separated from the 22 hp engine by a long and none-too-tight belt.
I have a push mower I have had for over 5 years and use it to edge and get places my zeroturn can't fit... iv banged the blade off rocks, stumps, railroad rail that was partially buried. It will stop the engine dead in its tracks but back it up check the blade and it fires right up and keeps eating. Hitting a rock will not kill your engine...your blade maybe but not your engine.
@@robertlangley258 dead stop is dead stop regardless of what you hit. Especially if it has no give. The railroad rail bent the blade over. Replaced the blade it fired right up.
@@christophernewman8741 on the farm we have about 4 mowers out of ten with a bent crankshaft from the workers hitting stuff so i agree it takes more than you think to ruin a motor but it does happen fairly regularly if you are abusing it
Noice. Lower your guide blades so they're almost touching the cutter bar. More efficient. Make your front wheels skinnier and bring them in closer to the cutter. Less effort in heavier brush.
WOW! What a great joy it must be to work in a roomy clean shop with all brand new late model equipment including CNC cutting table instead of bandaged up 20th century manual, worn out, loose machinery and hand tools and materials.
That's a purty neat lil outfit there. . . Job well done👍🏼!!! I would think it would be more easier to maneuver if the rear wheels would turn on a caster motion! Lil Miss 🌴Hawaiian Hula Girl🌴 is doing an excellent cellent job of supervising🤣🤣🤣. Thanks for sharing👌🏼
I had a simular idea but it would be a large table saw blade so it can take down 3" dia trees and drop down or up. You can't set the height on the but you can use a mower blade, string trimmer or chain saw disk or table saw blade This also doesn't have a discharge.
Trying to get my mate to make one for me. I will go for an old 2 stroke engine, just because I love them, like my old Victa 18 special Toe Cutter (only have 2 videos on it so far) I wonder how the 3 wheel design feels in the ruff stuff? I love the big wheels you put on it! Think I would go for 4 wheels. Please make some more lawnmower builds. Subbed.
My only suggestion: Fab up some "brush hog" style pivoting blades and a reasonably heavy center arbor (you cant go too heavy with a direct drive blade and a pull starter)
I would have putting the front wheels at the corners not center . That way it would do two things . The first thing it would do is stabilize the deck from going over ruff terrane . The 2nd is that they would be out of the way from the tall weeds . What I would do is to make the blade to swivel . This would take three new blades and some more steel to make it work right . This is to shorten two blades buy cutting off the cutting ends . Then taking the steel cutting it to the width of the cut blades and cutting down to about 3 inches shorter than the blades . This steel is a strip is 1/16 thicker than the blades . This strip of steel is sandwiched between the tow blades and welded . The 3rd blade is used for the cutting blade and the ends are cut at least 4 inch back from the cutting edge and then rounded . Holes need to be cut with the plasma cutter for the swivel grade 8 shoulder bolts . The other thing I would make is an extra support for the PTO end of the crank shaft . This way if you hit something hard ti would not bend the crankshaft . I have a old Bobcat push mower that has this support .
