The important thing to remember when raw glazing is the glaze needs to shrink with the pottery. Raw or unglazed pottery shrinks more than bisque so the glaze needs to shrink in proportion to the clay. Usually glazes that work on unbisqued clay need a higher proportion of clay in the recipe. Test your glazes that you want to use and if they crawl or fall off the pieces they need more raw clay. I did a lot of salt glazing in college and used a glaze that was mostly Albany slip for the interiors where the salt couldn’t reach like the insides of forms. Good luck!
Great information. Thank you. So unfortunate that I just received an order of materials from the store. However, thanks for the tip about using Dawn. I will try that for the time being.
Hi Richard...thank you for this Presumably, this can be used for raw glazing. I'll try each bone dry, and leather hard. Have you ever raw glazed? What I like about brushing glazes is the variation of the fired glaze that is inherent of the brushing process. Does Dawn dishwashing liquid go rotten as the gums do? I would think not.
Hi Richard (good name) : ) Yes I have raw glazed when I was doing production work. I agree the variation that you can achieve with brushing is a plus. I always suggest learning as much as possible to have the techniques and skills to choose from to reach your vision of your work. Dawn will not go bad like gums which are organic. A little tea oil can keep the gums fresh longer.
Hi Catherine, I like to use a standard medium to large sumi brush which I bought from Aardvark Clay in California. The bamboo handled brushes are available everywhere and are great for ceramics because they hold a lot and can create a fine to wide line.
By adding dishwashing detergent to the glaze it reduces the surface tension of the liquid which will help it flow smoothly. Just use a little, try it, then add a few drops more until it works for you. Enjoy!
I’m a new hand builder in India and found my underglazes flaking off. Ever since the info of CMC has come my way, it’s become a lot smoother! The colours stay on and I don’t have to use loads of it. A question though: the viscosity of the liquid CMC has changed over weeks from gummy to free-flowing water like. It doesn’t smell much for me to worry as I mix small amount of underglazes(we get them as powders here and mix with water). When I asked the manufacturer of CMC if its effectiveness is reduced when it’s more water-like, he said it didn’t. Do you have a view on this? Thanks in advance.
I personally do not have experience with CMC thinning and have not used it enough to have a strong opinion. Logically over time it is going into solution in the water and thinning. There is the same amount of CMC in your liquid and if it works for you keep using it. I have kept underglazes for years and the worst thing that happens is the liquid turns brown and might smell but after firing the color is gone (although the organic version, gum arabic has more problems than CMC). I would use your CMC solution and if it doesn't work the way you expect either increase how much you add or make up a fresh batch. Good luck!
Many thanks for your view. I'll keep checking its sticky quotient. While it's cheap in India, it's the boiling, mixing that can take some time. Incidentally, a potter mentioned that she prefers to use a few drops of glycerine for UGs to stick. I'm happy enough with CMC. Would look out for more primers.
@@Worrier629 I use glycerine to help the liquid to flow smoothly. Glycerine will also slow the drying helping with forming a smooth coat on your work. It is a medium that I use to mix with colorants when painting majolica pieces.
