BSA Bantam D10A Engine, for the D5 project. Initial Inspection. 

Very helpful video thankyou. As I look forward to my first Bantam next year ( yes, I've managed to survive for 77 years without a Bantam ) your presentation is excellent and music / speed up free !

eyup Dean Enjoyed it, It will make a nice project and bring another engine back to life. something to keep the "grey cells" busy!!!! I look forward to it. take care Kev

Bit of tig welding and time serts will fix that lovely.bob smiths engine service

Excellent video. Lots of bits to find but running 4 speed bantam engines are big money these days. As regards the dipstick the 4 speeds don't have one. There is a screw on the clutch cover to check the level

Another great video Dean........You certainly like a challenge! Those cases are more than recoverable. I use a MIG welder to repair damaged cases where the chain has broken out the centre case and I have also done barrel stud repairs and redrilled as you suggested with great success. I find I can get the wire into the base of the hole and just let it fill up. I set up in the mill and fly cut the base surface. I might add I drill the hole larger to give me a clean welding surface prior to welding. The wire I use is a Boss weld brand available from a large hardware retailer here and it seems to go really well with whatever the alloy composition BSA used in their castings. I couldn't agree more with a weld repair and re-drill the cases exactly how you explained it. The bulk of those hard to get D10 engines and components does look really good and well worth recovering. Is the grinding on the conrod possibly from the crank rubbing against the flywheel? I'm sure a bloke of your talents won't have too much trouble getting these issues resolved and produce another well engineered serviceable engine. You may even be lucky enough to stumble across another CDI at another auto jumble to really enhance that engine too, given most of the electrics aren't there.............

Lovely informative video Deano. Looking forward to the next one on the D7.

Oh goody, a "challenge" 🤔

Fantastic video, really enjoyed it. Love your presenting style now, it is like being there with you. If only I was. Interesting engine. Those long winter evenings are just going to fly by aren't they? If there is anyone who can overcome all those issues then it is you. I now understand why you were talking to me about upgrading your tig welder! I think all that stuff is do-able. I had to have a little giggle when you said you were going to loosely reassemble the engine. It couldn't get much more loosely assembled, could it?!

All the best with the engine restore, quite a challenge but I think you are up for it. I think the studs probably the worst of it..😁

First.

Another option on the barrel is a sleeve, ever consider that? I think I will be trying one for a Yamaha pretty soon. Not any available ported so will have to use a general purpose one with mapping the ports to put in myself. This worked well on the Lawn boy I did; I have to try it on a motorcycle now.

That looks like it is on the mold mark

Nice job on the video Dean, you do have your work cut out for you, what do you think about twin-serts, or keen-serts for repair of the stud holes. I'm sure they could be welded up and re drilled as well. I have had great success with twin-serts. It just depends on how oversize the holes are. What is the parts availability for the Bantams, aftermarket, and NOS? Must be a pretty big following in the U K and Australia. Yes, Dean the priorities are clean and shiny not functional! You're a funny guy bud.

Do the casings have any magnesium in the alloy? if so you may have a problem welding.

Is thi 2 or 4 stoke.

XCP?

'looks like oil, feels like oil, smells like cat pee' = gear oil.