I have to say, I've watched countless RU-vid channels on engine rebuilding and related mechanics. And I have to say, your channel is by far the best! Your attention to detail and methodical procedures and tips are superior to ALL the others! I've already pinpointed things I've done wrong by watching your videos. I really appreciate you sharing your experience to learn from. And I appreciate that you reply to related questions in the comments.
I am so thankful for your information, primarily (this video) about shutting down during break-in. Almost all others I've watch, make it sound like if you shut down before 25-30 minutes you have junked your camshaft. I recently ran a SBC in on my run stand, and had to shut down for a big issue. I finished the break in and everything turned out fine so far. Your teaching has given me confidence in running in more. Thank you for all your effort and wisdom. You can find that run-in video on my channel. Thanks again, keep the teaching coming.
This channel has the potential to get a LOT of subscribers. People love engine builds and a LOT of people have a fetish to see engines run on a stand after it’s built. I’m surprised it’s not at 30K subs already and easily get to 100K subs.
Golds is one of my favorite channels. Great down to earth info with no egotistical silly antics. The only thing I can critique, all the engines you build have the distributor on the wrong end.
Unbelievable quality!! With hundreds of these videos under my belt I never thought I would learn so many valuable rules of thumb about starting of a small black Chevrolet. You have a very eager new subscriber, golf, clappage.
Hey Alan, Great content as usual. At some point in the video, you mentioned filling the carb's float bowls before starting the engine. I know how to do that, but for your viewers who don't know, you can take a small squirt bottle of gasoline and squeeze the gas into the carb's vent tubes to fill the bowls if you don't have an electric fuel pump.
Very methodical, clean work area and great starting stand. But please check motor manual, most Chevy V8 engines with a stock distributor have the rotor pointing to the boot terminal to the Left of the point adjusting window This is important so that plug wire lengths matches this starting point on the distributor.
Great video lots of great info, like the Camaro in the background, I've had my 68 396 Camaro for almost 30 years having a blast with it enjoy your summer keep the videos coming
Really enjoying your videos, not to knock anything at all, I am sure you probably did it already, but before installing distributor we can prime the oil pump with 1/2 inch electric drill so oil is right there ready to go. thanks for posting !! oh cheers from Calgary!!
Thanks for your comment Ken, Yes I do prime every engine with a priming tool and a drill. The tool is better than a drill because it mimics the distributor and prevents oil from dumping back into the pan and forces it through the lifters and push rods. AG
JOE yes you can turn the engine over to allow the oil pump rod to mesh with the distributor put light pressure on the distributor to make sure the cam gears do not miss align putting it out of time, the rotor will turn keep your hand clear, hope this helps.
When I built Jaguar engines I used to start them initially without headers after dark. The colour of the short flames will indicate if all cylinders are working equally well. Also, while tappet failure is no issue with the Jags, you still need 2000+ RPM because at idle the piston rings can glaze over within the first few minutes idling preventing them from ever seating propperly. The enginge will burn oil for ever. Only another tear down, new rings and often a new hone can fix this.
Love watching your videos. They are packed full of great knowledge for all motor heads. Quick question, assuming your using break-in oil w/high zinc content, how long should the break-in oil be used before changing? And could you discuss your opinions on what the best type of oil is best once broke in. Thank you so much...
Sure, thanks for the question Terry. I have been using LUCAS break in oil with ZDDP for the initial break in on my test stand. Then i dump it and replace it with the same break in oil before going to the dyno. After the dyno it can stay in the engine, anything from 200-500 miles. If the engine has a flat tappet cam, then i recommend replacing it with LUCAS Hot Rod oil (Or equivalent) with ZDDP. All FT cams need ZDDP. If the engine has a roller cam, then you can use conventional oil or synthetic oil. Hope this helps..AG
Nice start up. I never thought to use hot plugs. I have used cold ones, and had the carb safe rich and I am surprised it ran. I had to tear the thing down, within 30 km and the chambers and plugs were soot! Safe rich, that's a bit rough! So it gets warm up North for a few days? Nice street and garden.
Thanks Justin, we have 2 or 3 more videos in the pipeline, post break in diagnostics, changing valve springs and then on the dyno Aug 5. Watch for them. AG
Pro Tip, if you put that slot in the oil pump shaft at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock the dizzy will go all the way in! No need to crank engine to get it to drop!
Hey great video! You said you can use any gas to break a cam in no matter the compression. I’m building a 13-1 compression small block with dome pistons, can I just use pump gas to get the cam broken in? I will run the car on race gas for racing but it would be good to know I could use pump gas for a break in.
Important question, thanks for asking. When breaking a cam in on the test stand or in your shop, the engine is never under load so it is fine on 87, however if you are driving the car and loading the engine, use the same fuel that you would for normal driving. AG
I don't think it was mentioned, but, before you attempt to start a fresh flat tappet cam engine, make SURE that you have the timing correct (not 180° out), fuel bowls on the carb pre-filled, cooling system full and ready, belts on, etc. Be SURE that everything that will let the engine just fire up on the first few revolutions and run, is correct. Even extended CRANKING before firing up CAN increase your chances of an unsuccessful cam break-in, and flat lobes in the near future. PROPER oil with plenty of zinc is of utter importance also. I won't even mess with a flat tappet cam anymore. Roller cam, or NO cam, for me.. Sure, they cost more, but the benefits are completely worth it to me.
I almost forgot. An old bloke years ago, asked me why his Clevland would not start? I said, " every 353849 idiot knows Clevo's turn anti clockwise. The dissys, that is. He left without another word. A grunt was my thanks. Cheers.
Thanks Alleyoop. I have passed your compliment on to my wife Mariana who does the gardening. Watch for the next video on the break in diagnostics to be published soon, you are mentioned. AG
Good point Magnus. You are correct that the windage tray will prevent some of the oil from the crank and rods splashing on the camshaft. This engine does not have a windage tray, however the last 400 that I built did have one. It started it with the tray and had a clean start with no issues. That said, removing the try for start up is probably a good idea. AG
Growing up in the 60's, I watched a few neighbors working on their newly rebuilds and not running at or about 2k RPMs for break-in, most of them would just get in, crank it and drive. Maybe that is why most them were back in the engine in a short time. Cam break-in is the most important item that just was not common knowledge at the time, when did mechanics realize that you need the break-in on a new cam and lifters?
Hey Brad. Two things happened in the late nineties. Most OEM's had switched to roller cams. Zink in the oil was damaging catalytic converters and it was not required for roller cams so oil companies stopped using it. the problem is they never told anyone. Because OEM's were no longer buying millions of flat tappet lifters, many of their suppliers stopped manufacturing them. This opened the door for less equality lifters from questionable sources to enter the market. I think most flat tappet cams are still made in the USA and i also don't think the cams are the problem most of the time. The lifter is more stressed than the cam and i think is typically the original cause of failure. In 1973 I put three different flat tappet cams in my C/MP Camaro (starting at about .515" then .550" then at about .580" each time just for more power. i reused the lifters all three time and paid no attention to where they came from. Never had a problem. Sometimes what you don't know won't hurt you. AG
I just saw you added me. I don’t ever post anything in here. Just have some saved music. I probably should start shootings videos since I do have a lot of projects. Lol. But for a video you kind of have to work on them right? At this point I’m watching most of them rust waiting for my son to catch the hot rod bug.
So much money and time in these builds at this point in time with problems with flat tappets I don't think I would build a motor with them... Either retrofit lifters and cam or factory roller lifter block. So many horror stories on flat tappet builds going south!
Thanks Larry for your comment. Roller is definitely nicer and safer for sure, but they are quite expensive and would never fit into a Budget Build. I have never had a failure on the stand or on the dyno, however I have ideal conditions and go to extremes to make sure it doesn't happen. AG
What if ur distributer doesn't have a vacuum advance on it ? that's the way it came it's a Mallory unilite electronic ignition anything different then?
Thanks for the question Kimmy. Typically distributors without vacuum advance are used in racing. In most racing applications, total advance is locked in. AG
The engine running at 2500 rpm will get plenty of oil to the cam. In the meantime, while you are standing there revving the motor up and down like a 16-year-old that just cut the muffler of his Cavalier you should be walking around looking, listening, and smelling for any problems. If you shut the motor down before the full break-in time is up, you have to remember that you have washed all the break-in lube off the cam so when you go to start it again, you have a chance for a lifter to gull the cam on the start-up rotation. One other thing, if it is taking 15 minutes to get to the temperature you must not be running a thermostat so the oil isn't getting up to temperature as fast as it should. Hope it does well when you dyno it.
@nojunkwork5735 I agree with everything you said. What I don't agree with is Golds Garage's theory about having to heat cycle the gaskets without a radiator cap. I am not sure what he thinks is going to change doing it that way. But watching the video he seems to be full of old wives tales and overkill on his build.
interesting question Patrick. I don't run a dirt car but I think you would put it where it is less likely to get damaged or clogged up with dirt. I don't think the engine cares. I am not an expert on this subject, so I suggest you seek other opinions as well. AG
I have a question I am looking to build my first engine and will build a test stand first but I would like to know what brand cam and lifters you use in this small block. This engine I am building is a 327 it is a practice engine to put in the car to be able to move it in and out my way while I am building it but I will be building a 383 after that. I don't want to buy a roller cam just for a practice engine but I will be putting a roller in the 383 thanks.
and if you do not mind my main concern is the lifters have you ever used the new comp cam lifters with that special coating on the bottom of the lifter. So what name brand lifter did you use in the build. The reason I am asking is all the stuff I am reading about how the lifters and cam you have to make sure they are machined right so you don't wipe a cam. Thanks for answering my questions
Thanks Doug. The only torque on the flex plate right now is the starter, but I will have all the bolts on for the dyno. Good catch and thanks for your input. AG
I always turned the oil pump slot by hand to get the distributor to drop in, but you turned the engine over to do it. That confused me because it would seem the engine isn't at tdc on the compression stroke on number 1 cylinder any more. But the engine fired up so I have to figure that one out.
Good point Joe. As long as the distributor drive gear is engaged with the camshaft gear, they will turn together and the rotor will still be in the right place. AG
Yes I do, however it is not necessary as long as the engine is primed before starting. The priming process will fill the lifters with oil. Thanks for the question. AG
Prior to about 1973, cars with ignition points used either an in line resistor or a resistance ignition wire to reduce the voltage from 12 to about 8 volts. If you run a direct connection with a non resistance wire from the ignition terminal, or any 12V source that is "on" with ignition, directly to your coil you will have 12V. Hope this helps. AG
That is funny Yarrda. I usually run the engines with mufflers and I am respectful of time of day etc., but as far as I know most of them like it. As you know if you are a car guy, it is music to your ears, of not, it is just noise. Thanks for your comment. AG
We got a 11:1 350 Chev in a Chevelle fired up at 2AM. Probably half the town got woken up as it was in the garage that acted like a concert hall. Buddies mom came out in her house coat and a broom and started smacking noggins. This was at the time leaded fuel was being phased out.
That is a good story Dale. Back in the drag racing and Super Late Model days in a different city sometimes we had to fire up in the middle of the night. I have had a few visits from the police over the years. Most of them liked it too! AG
