Unfortunately the work I did here didn't fix the rotor problem and I ended up installing a new EBC rotor. The bearing tube mod does make it easier to remove the wheel bearings.
Thanks for the video very helpful. FYI from my experience on cars this brake "judder" is caused by the rotor having runout. A dial indicator on the rotor while turning the wheel will reveal the high spots. So what happens is the pad makes light contact on the high spots when the wheel turns while NOT braking. Thus the pad gradually deposits material on the rotor high spots that build up over time and that causes increasing judder over time. No way to remove the deposits without a lathe. If the rotor is flat (with no high spots) the problem can be PREVENTED by placing shims where the dial indicator shows the low spots. Try to keep the run out below .001 or so to prevent judder. Also repositioning the rotor on the wheel can either reduce or eliminate the runout. The runout may be caused by the bearing.
Very insightful! Thanks for sharing and greetings from L.A. I’ve got the same annoying front brake thumping issue with newish pads on and I also think its my rotor needing some polishing or replacing. I had ideas on how to go about it with a pro buddy of mine but you’ve made it all look like very DIY-able. I think I’ll do exactly as you minus replacing the bearings or buying a new rotor, for now, but good to know about that notch mod! 👍
@@xpsgarage I replaced my brake pads, OEM to OEM, yesterday and no more brake thumping.. I probably developed uneven pad wear due to grime/gunk in between the bores several thousand miles ago as my inside pad on ZTL1 caliper was noticeably more worn than the outer. The uneven force from inside/outside pad was bouncing off the rotor springs. Could of also been the over torqued axle bolt I noticed, those large threads are enough to pull the wheel to one side shifting the position of the rotor if its too tight. So I cleaned up the caliper, removed the wheel, torqued the rotor fasteners and lubed the springs, polished the rotor and put everything back together and its all good. Moving forward I’ll probably clean up and tune up my brakes at half to a quarter of pad material remaining just to keep things clean and tuned until replacement.
Hi! this video is so helpful for me!! trying to restore mine by myself in italy, ( also learning working with inch measurenents) probably i will install a new rotor kit from ebr, if i well understood, they replaced the spring with round different spacers...is that right? sorry for bad english, thank you! ciao!👍
Yes EBR did come out with a different mounting kit that was more solid. It looked like it was more for racing applications that required more heat transfer but it will definitely also work on a street bike. I never tried the kit so I don't have any first hand experience with it. Glad you found the video useful.
6:45 I built a collet puller to get it out. They are available to buy just Google collet bearing puller. If the bearing is no good then I normally just weld a piece of scrap metal in the center to give me something to put the punch on so I can drive it out.
@@xpsgarage thanks The front brake on my fire bolt locked up this morning coming to a set of lights.. it eventually freed up. But now I’m too scared to ride it.. any suggestions?
@@MrBlompod Normally if the brake locks up you either have a mechanical problem with the caliper or something is stopping the flow of the brake fluid. You can start by pulling the caliper and making sure you can push the pistons all the way back in the bore. Remove the master cylinder cover when doing this because the fluid will go back there. Also make sure the brake lever is going all the way back to it's stop. If not that will prevent the fluid from flowing back when the brakes are released and the brakes will stay on. If the pistons in the caliper bind up it may be time for a caliper rebuild. Make sure the pads are free to slide on the pins.
For removing the wheel bearings? Google blind hole bearing puller or collet bearing puller. If you know someone with a welder then have them weld something across the inner race so you can drive it out. Then notch the tube and next time will be easy.
