Im a cabinet maker looking for people i can tell have actual, functional content. Within 3 minutes you sound exactly like the masters i have trained under. Happy i found your channel. Good work, good education
Your encyclopedic knowledge of building a case is on display in this video. It is helpful when you add the do’s and don’ts to your videos because they are trusted words of experience. Thanks for sharing another invaluable video. Take care.
Thanks Rob, I feel ready to start my first big project because of your joinery videos and tools. A set of drawers seems like just the project and this has been very instructional, time to plan!
One more a time a very nice video class...I loved that small one with handles/knobs out of center...nice idea...one teacher of mine (Who passes a lot of experience for students) told to me once :"a talent not shared is a lost talent" Thank you for all you have shared with us around the world (I am from Brazil the land of amazing exotic woods)
That's a really interesting video. I find this kind of informations so precious, because at the end when I'm building something I can be a perfect guy in planing, chiseling, glueing, squaring... But when it comes to cross grain and building complex objects I face the limits of my know how. Would like more of these! 🙏🏻🌞
Nice construction on the ones that you made. I can’t tell you how many times people have asked me to refinish furniture only for me to tell them that it is not real wood. I don’t mind being square when it comes to case work. Thank you for all you do.
Hi Rob - I am an average woodworker looking for guidance to build a chest of draws for my daughter - the information you provided will enable me to complete the project - thanks.
Great video again as always. Thanks for sharing. What I am wandering now, i'm not sure about the MDF cases. If I understand it correctly, it's MDF which is veneered. Is this true? If yes, could it be a nice topic for a next video about how to create it and how to get the create sharp edges?
Hello Rob! Thanks for this (and all your other) videos. I am actually working on my first solid wood casework myself, and I felt the same way about some lack of easy information. This was perfect. I did have one question on the fit of the dividers. You said the front is securely fastened on the divider, and the sides are just dry fit, but I didn't quite understand on the back. Is it a secure fit similar to the front? Or are the two poplar sides of the dividers mortis and tenoned into the back, securely or dry? Thanks again!
I would love more videos like this, where you take a common type of furniture, and discuss structural changes in the variety of design options. This was so much help. A lot of this was new to me. You just don't get to see many technique comparison videos out there these days. I'd love to see a video some day that is titled, "oh crap, you have the glue on, and it isn't square", where you look at a variety of projects, and go over tricks to get things safely into square in a pinch, in much the same way Rob discusses at 24:00.
Thanks Rob, another great video. I built a case out of MDF and found the second mitre on the top the most difficult to cut on the table saw. The first mitre was tough to keep aligned to the fence. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Alex
Hi Rob. Great video with lots of really good info. Thanks. A number of years ago in a museum they had a high chest of drawers that used frame and panel construction for the sides. One of the conservators was kind enough to remove one of the drawers so I could see the inner casework. The builder had used frame and panel construction for the drawer dividers too. I have always wondered how you would fasten those dividers to the sides and it remain strong enough to last. That chest was over 200 years old so obviously it worked. I guess you would be taking advantage of relatively small expansion and contraction of one frame member housed within another even though it would be cross grain. Your video has inspired me to try this out and see for myself if it would be strong enough.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yes. Sorry, I wasn’t very clear in what I was trying to say. It looks like to me that using frame and panel sides for the case significantly reduces the cross grain problem you pointed out when you are using solid wood sides. It might be an option for case work if you like the look of frame and panel (which I do). Thanks for the reply. Your videos always get me thinking about how to do things differently. I really appreciate all the information you provide.
Dear Rob. I cannot express in words how grateful I am to you. Truth in every video... Taking off my hat. :) P.S. Have you ever wondered what materials furniture will be made of in the future?
I noticed your new Bessie clamps don't have hockey tape on them. I have a few of them too without tape. Nice grips on the new ones that don't need tape. Maybe they've been watching your videos. Anyway, I thought your hockey tape idea was perfect. All of my older clamps, the slippery ones, are now taped. It took a few rolls of tape, but it's done. Works wonders for older hands. Thanks man!!
Thank you, there is a LOT of useful info to absorb here. For me, it's especially the dry-fit approach you used with the divider frames to handle lateral expansion. I knew this stuff in theory, but you illustrated this well enough for me to really get it 😁 PS I was a little surprised to see no slides used expect for the mass produced example. I'll have a look through your back catalogue for the answers to that. I guess if the fit is good enough, then there is no real need for slides.
I got so excited to see this video. Thanks Rob. Another thought, one of my favourite timbers is curley maple. Is there a ton of maple being in canada. Im in Australia and its expensive as heck over here! I recieved my mun ebony dovetail saw and it will be a heirloom for my son. Thanks for your service to the wood warriors around the world. Cheers
Just curious if you have a preference as to which season you build furniture, since humidity levels have a big impact on properly fitting things together. I would guess winter is the best time and then as summer comes around if things swell a bit it just helps tighten the joints, Whereas building in summer you may see things cracking or loosening when winter rolls around (wider dados cut). Is this anything you even take into consideration?
Actually it’s quite the opposite. My preference (for drawers at least) is to fit them in August/September, when the humidity is at its peak here. That way they’re not likely to get any tighter than when I finish with them.
Hello Rob.. thanks for the video.. wanna know how thin is the venner you use on the mdf? Just wondering if the mitre joint on the carcase if it wont risk breaking when one use a thin sheet of venner on a sharp edge or have you used a home made venner made at the workshop with a bandsaw? Cheers from Brazil..
Very helpful!!! I have learned so much from you. Can you also with solid wood construction have your panels be attached to the side with a kind of sliding dove tail that is only glued in the front? Would their be any negative with that design other than time?
A sliding dovetail would also work but I think its a lot more effort than its worth when a shoulder Dado is easier to cut and assemble and virtually as strong once glued up
Love it! I may make one with the drawer cut outs instead of pulls, I've only thought of doing so on all my shop drawers but this example is really quite exquisite! Great example! Also, I've thought about using veneer on MDF but dont have a source for decent veneer. If you know of one in the states I'd appreciate it.
The drawer faces inwould cut a 45 degree living a 1/8 reveal for strenhth on all 4 sides no knobs needed clean look and you can open the drawer on all 4 sides !
