To prevent the popping fuse: make a circuit where it starts with a big resistor in series with the transformer. Make a timer with an relay or an triac which shortens this resistor after a few seconds. Then the fuse will stay in! I made this softstart myself about 30 yrs ago. Worked perfect!
Too many output devices. You’re way past adding unneeded distortion from that many devices. For better dynamics, look at the ESR of your filter and regulated PS caps. Three pairs of 15A 30MHz devices is plenty for 400Wpc at 4Ohms and sounds better. Krell and countless other makers made this fundamental mistake and continue to do it.
Hello, it is very important to remove the paint at the location of the ground cable attachment to remove the paint otherwise the electrical contact will not be made, the paint being insulating.
Sangat rapi sekali... Dan sistem plug and play, jadi sewaktu waktu ada konslet atau terbakar tinggal lepas dan ganti... Jossss pokoknya, yuotube nya ikutkan server luar negeri om, biar bisa Dilihat orang luar merambah mancanegara... Atau bikin akun online shop biar tau spek sesuai dengan harga...
Excelente impecable me podrias decir donde puedo comprar esa placa driver asi igual a la usas en este video y con esos mismos transistores gracias bendiciones desde Colombia
One thing I have learned is that equipment which has the word 'professional' stamped on it rarely is. True professional equipment doesn't need to say so.
Next time put the power leads through the holes in the fuseholder, bend it and solder it after this. I case of a fault, the wires can get hot, desolder and touch anywhere in the amp. The VDE Rules in Germany do not allow this and the amp may not be used. A shrink hose must also be over the high voltage parts!
A specialty of this design is high linearity of every stage and low amount of global negative feedback - only 18db of ODNF error correction. The amp is particularly good for acoustic music - jazz, classics, guitars, vocals, drums, cymbals, etc. The amplifier is dead silent at idle, which is a big advantage for listening at the low volumes and/or with some high-sensitivity speakers. Key specifications with +/-50V rails: Maximum output power: 100W @ 8 ohm; 160W @ 4 ohm Voltage gain 29db Input impedance 47 Kohm THD: 1KHz - 0.007%, 10KHz - 0.05%, 20KHz - 0.07% (measured at 50W @ 8 ohm) IMD: 14+15KHz - 0.007% (measured at 50W @ 8 ohm) SNR: 117db It's going to be the main amplifier in my home audio system for a while ;)
Когда сверлили радиаторы, стружка разлетелись везде где только можно было и попала на выводы в плате. Наводки от трансформатора лучше экранировать. Вентиляторы эффективнее работают внутри корпуса. На диодные мосты надо небольшой тепло отвод. ☝️
@@joshpoe Most people that know nothing about electronics have this same stance but honestly car amps and home amps are the same with the exception of a 50/60Hz power supply. But by all means buy ur $1/watt minimum amplifiers
@@carrizzle9586 go ahead and show me a class AB car audio amp that delivers its rated power. I'm sure your Skar audio 2k watt amp hits so hard. Anyone with half a brain knows when Phoenix Gold sold and Xtant folded it was sad times for car audio in general. JL is all that's left thats good. What's your brand of choice, Skar or Rockford? Lol
@@joshpoe Well to reply to your inquiry I don't have a brand of choice but if I buy a car audio amp and I wanted 250W I would buy one rated for 1000W. But the question at hand was the cost. I would gladly pay $250 for 1500W car audio amp and get a 750 true Watts vs $500 for a 200W home audio amp. But if u think sound quality is affected due to a Switch mode power supply, then change it to a Linear power supply for home application and you have the best of both worlds at a waaayyyy reduced price. Trust me I know why they charge big bucks for the home audio equipment and its not because the cost of making it is that much greater its because audio-fools talk about it like they can hear "Warmth" in the music and it has more "Headroom", "Dynamic Range" etc. etc.
This is nice build, however the transformer you use can deliver 2200VA max. 10par sanken this size can give 1000W per channel, double it and you reach absolute limit of transformer. Should be 50% greater than max consumption, So ca 4000VA size. The other you suggest give 5200VA and this is right one to this build. Smaller transformer cannot utilize potential of this very nice power amp....
Gangster! Definitely going to watch the toroidal build after this. Very satisfying, I'm not that advanced in electronics but the soft start feature others have mentioned definitely makes sense cos who wants popping fuses or speakers lol even the noise is horrible. My sub plate amps left that out of the design perhaps ill have to add one myself then I won't leave them on all the time wasting power to avoid the noise meanwhile wearing out components because they are always under load. For such a simple piece of circuitry it's stingey as they didn't include this in my brand name subs. Your project build is a different situation. Would love to see this on a dyno 😂🔥
Transformer is not the problem, the problem are the empty capacitors that demands a lot of power when you turn on the power switch, maybe you could made a board to serialize a resistor with a relay and a timer of 3 or 4 seconds to short the resistor, this made a slow charging of capacitors and resolve the problem (like pro amps). Another issue is the power cable from the outlet pass too close to the signal cables, you need to separate to prevent noise.
Buenos días Dios los bendiga, quisiera saber como obtener este amplificador tanto chasis como todos los materiales, les escribo desde soledad atlantico Colombia, gracias.
Kenapa nggak pakai PSU smps, Yang sekitaran 30 Amper, kalau pakai trafo, tidak cukup untuk mengkofer semua daya transistor final,dan drop voltase trafo juga besar.
Hell,... my friend, I like your work so neatly, the sound that comes out is very smooth, pleasant to hear, how many ohms does this speaker use????👍👍👍👍👍
Sir..you use 40 transistor and transformer is 20 amps..how did you calculate while per transistor consume 1.2 amps... please suggest...am writing for your response
One thing I noticed is that on your solder joints you are just attaching the wires using the solder and not establishing a solid mechanical joint first. That’s not a good idea in the long run. You are building these as professional power amps which means they will be moved. Put in a rack and taken from show to show or to a different event. Those joints can come apart. The solder is there for the electrical connection, not the mechanical connection. Just a suggestion. They might work for years but it’s not the correct way to do it.
Nice video, would like to contact you., I have query: where is the following: preamp boards on the input, or just the driver board, protection overheat, DC, cross connection, etc overload, soft start, EMI , groud loop etc
