Perhaps we could have made a faceplate, but I really loved your idea of internal connections and found your video and 'Instructables/Ammo Can Solar Power Supply' directions useful to My wife and I making an "A.mateur M.obile P.ower Box" togather. Purchasing your faceplate gave us a prefect way to both thank you, and not to have to make our own plate.
@@erickruepong9105 This was designed as a way to teach people how to build their own project and learn about solar and battery basics by doing so. If you simply want to purchase a battery backup device, there are many of them commercially available. For example: amzn.to/3xxyO2X
@@erickruepong9105 Eric if you watch the free adds and garage sales you can quite often find booster packs with modified sine wave inverter and some with an air pump as we'll all you have to do is replace the battery you can get USB ports most have battery level indicator but you need to add a set of terminals to hook a good battery charger to charge it up the charger that comes with them is designed to kill the battery in about a year so they hope you'll buy a new one I did that for over 40 years since I'm a horder I've still got a lot of my old units since I've found utube I've found out I can put a new battery in a couple of my bigger and better units so that's an idea also if you want a good cheap unit just buy a booster pack with a modified sine wave inverter most now come with USB ports just don't trust the charger that comes with it get a good battery charger and either charge through the booster cables or the auxiliary plug for solar charging harbor freight has a 100 watt solar panel kit that includes a controller and lights that plug into the solar charge controller with USB ports since non of the reviews I've seen tell I'f it's got proper charging parameters for sealed lead acid batteries but for around 200$ you can get a full system the booster packs are usually under a hundred dollars most of mine cost less than 60 dollars and I'm told the harbor freight solar panel kit is around a hundred dollars if you have devices that need USB quick charge and type C a unit that plugs into the auxiliary plug is around 10 dollars and the type C is around 30 $ you can buy splters that take the auxiliary plug and split it to 2 or as many as 5 auxiliary plugs the nice thing about the USB adapter is you can use them in your automobile to charge cell phones fit bit watches and laptops most people already have at least a slow USB adapter for their phones but the newer phones that take type C charge way to slow on them I plugged my phone in to the USB port in my sister's car for 3 hours and got a whole half hour of run time had a 2 hour trip and it died before I got a half hour out i Now have charger in both my vehicles so that won't happen again also my fit bit watch wouldn't charge on the slow charger it needed quick charge and wouldn't plug into type C
Nice presentation! Well thought out. Gathering my bits pcs to make one, I will however add a disconnect switch between the battery and charge controller as not to discharge the battery during storage.
You should switch the red fused wire between the battery and the solar charge controller. Save from a parasitic draw on the battery. Nice build clean looking.
Highest quality DIY RU-vid video I have ever seen of what is probably one of the most important things everybody should have in case there is a public utility power-outage and / or, to have portable solar rechargeable AC / DC electrical power on the go while traveling, camping, etc. Thank you Benjamin Nelson for your RU-vid video channel.
I felt uncomfortable about "back feeding," but hadn't thought through why. This is very important info - everyone trying to use a generator needs to know this! 🙂
Hi Ben I just finished a shed and put a newer, bigger solar system (60 amp hr) in it to power lights, a fan, cordless battery charger and more. You inspired me, thank you...God Bless
Hello Ben I finsihed mine yesterday, I will send you pics later. Very Excited, I used it last night, I had an LED light that plugs into a computer and I pluged it into the box, it worked great. I am using a 30 watt solar panel 1.76 amp max output... Thank you for sharing your project, it inspired me to do this, somthing I have never done before using tools I have never used before..LOL
Great to hear it, Ronnie! That's exactly why I did this project - for people to have a solar project that's easy enough for a first-timer to build and learn from! Nice job!
You know you've been making signs too long when the vinyl gets me excited. Nothing quite wakes you up like the smell vinyl in the morning. Thanks for spelling out some of the odd parts others skip.
Amazing talent to vulgarize intimidating stuff. Amazingly clear. Driven by passion and respect for his audience. I wish you were my neighbor ! Fantastic !
Very nice detailed solar ammo box build, I have made a few myself but not as neat as yours. Thanks for NOT calling it a solar generator. Greetings from Jamaica.
I know it's a few years old but I've built my 3rd box since I saw this a couple of years ago. I did modify it a bit. Used 2 batteries, a solar controller and a 400 watt inverter with discharge control. Both batteries fit perfectly. The controller is mounted but the inverter is loose. It would run our lights, TV and 18v battery charger. Good stuff. Thanks for this video
@@erickruepong9105 I have about $600 in it. That's batteries, panels, inverter and charge controller and all the small hardware and box to put it all in. Harbor Freight for panels, charge controller and inverter. Can't remember brand of batteries.
Finally, a project that is small enough to be in the range of what I want. Most of the youtubes and online instructions figure you want to run a whole house on them.
I've seen this video three or four times over a number of months. This past week, I accumulated all the major components for mine, but when I started to get the little things I need to put it together, I discovered they were nickle and diming me to poverty! I originally desired to fuse and switch everything. You reminded me to KISS it! I originally started to fuse and switch just about everything. Yours uses only one switch and one fuse. I decided to change mine to use only the one fuse, but two switches. First of all, I follow the growing trend not to use the "load" option on the solar charge controller (SCC). I use mine for ham radio transmitters and on three different SCCs the "load" can't handle even the smallest radio, way below the rated current. Instead, my output devices will connect directly to the battery (always to the master fuse.) One switch will go to the SCC so I can turn it off when not charging the battery. The other switch will go to the "accessories", just as your accessory panel has. Like yours, the input and output ports bypass the switches and go directly to the fuse. I'm designing two of them and am actively assembling my prototype. My prototype will be using a 16Ah LiFePO4 battery, and have three separate 12v-USB charging ports and two APP ports. The 12v-USB ports with multiple outlets never charge two devices as fast as one. So, I'm installing three so everyone in the family can fast charge one of their devices at the same time. This is the primary purpose of the prototype, but it will also double as a power supply for picnic-type ham radio portable outings where I operate a few hours and come home. It's not worth setting up solar for one or two hours and the battery powers the radio for 5 hours. With the kinks ironed out of the prototype, I'll build four more with 32Ah LiFePO4 batteries with the same power panel as yours, but with APP where you have banana jacks. One of them will have a pure sine wave inverter for my CPAP and the others will be equipped with inverters like you have. Each family member gets one during a power outage and I get one for the CPAP and one for the radio station. The prototype will still be there for charging phones and tablets as needed.
Nicely done. Note that the wall wart charger does not have a constant-current mode so is not really appropriate for battery charging. In the video, it is trying to charge, seeing effectively a short circuit, shutting down, and then starting again. One solution is to add a buck converter with an adjustable constant current setting between any power supply and the battery. Old laptop power supplies are great for that if you want high power (with an appropriate buck converter).
This has got to be the most interesting and non-intimidating electrical lesson I have see. Very easy to follow along, THANKS! I am encouraged to actually try this sometime!
A really good tutorial for starters, like the way you did the wiring. Most have a big mess which you should avoid. Seems a rather good battery for its size, as I watch I noticed you could add another one easily. 30Ah total is probably overkill but with an inverter, you could run that fridge an hour longer if needed. Having a few accessories on the lid itself is basically a choice. I do find that impressive and will stimulate you to use it more. Thanks, I changed a few plans myself because of this.
@@SJ-xg1uf I spent about $130 USD on parts. As of the time of this message, my generator was stolen. However, if I did it again, it would be cheaper. Get this: the Yeti 150 by GoalZero is about $300, but this thing is more powerful.
Thank you for sharing this project. I am looking to build something similar with a small 10Ah Lithium LiFeP04 battery. I want to use this mostly for recharging USB powered devices while camping. Thank you for walking through this carefully for us all.
Just assembled mine last night and realized two things: you can't run an inverter in the cigarette lighter socket (the solar controller instructions says you can't do this, when I tried it would shut everything down), so I rewired that socket directly to the battery. I ordered a Low Voltage Protector Disconnect Switch to add to that circuit so I don't drain the battery. I've also decided there's plenty of room in the box for another battery, so I've ordered another one and will run them in parallel (as per the solar controller instructions). I'm adding a second solar panel as well. Other than those issues/mods, it works perfect. Thanks so much for the video!
Watching in 2021 Dec. 28.. Thanks for the information. These times I think we are going to need to know more about solar for home use. Happy New Year 2022.
Make sure to check out the videos I have on how I designed and installed my own solar system! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dvUohDXKjYw.html
Wow, thank you for this! I've seen countless videos of this same project, but none of them were as comprehensive as yours. I already have all the items I need, except for the faceplate, which of course I'm gonna order.
You are awesome. I got a 100 ah battery with a ice chest. That idea is perfect for my project. I have the same whistle you have . Only difference I'm adding 1000 walt inverter . Thanks for your knowledge and ideas. You are awesome
If all you are going to run is an ice chest then you might want o measure just how much it draws. If all you need is 100w then a 100w inverter has a lot less conversion losses than a 1000 watt inverter. As an example my 300w inverter with no load draws 1/4 of what my friends 1000 watt inverter draws with no load.
2018, watching in 2022 and you blew my mind still, the wall adapter trick is so mind blowing, i cant belive no one else did this. def gonna try it, i need a low budget build and im sure i should have some plugs laying in the good old box xD
I made up a box not quite as nice as this one but I used LiFePO4 cells in it. Those cells can deliver 200A short duration. I can jump start my truck with the thing. I used 38120 Headway cells. 4P 4S configuration.
Another great well organized video. I am considering building on of these for ham radio with the addition of a matching box with just two batteries (fused of course) in it to give me 45Ahs.
Now that I'm thinking about it. 🤔. A lithium ion battery would be much better in terms of efficiency. I think I might go that route. Thank you again for the great 👍🏾 video
Excellent, easy-to-follow instructions, thank you. Everything works perfectly, except when I plugged in my 150 watt inverter to the DC socket and the fuse blew. No idea what happened, but the USB ports work perfectly for now.
@@pinkiepie1656 there is a 20-amp fuse, but I think the inverter is faulty. I plugged in a small usb socket and it worked fine. I'm thinking about getting another inverter and hoping for the best. Thanks for responding!
The only thing I would add is a stabilizer to the end so when you push in the components the mounting board stays in place and does not move down, but a neat clean good job very good my friend.
love it, a couple things, black screws, loctite, i worry that someone could by accident connect your power soiurce into your remote power out sending DC volts backwards and maybe shorting the the controler or battery. One other THING you could if needed charge it from a cars cigerette light [useing your adaptor with your AC ps ]. Lastly I have seen roll up panels that would fit in the inside lid and seen nets and pockets that would attach to the lid inside. Thanks
Ben: What a brilliant and helpful job you’ve done with this video! You’ve given me the confidence to try it, a first electrical project for me. I’m a preservation carpenter so pretty handy but a bit wary of elec - however, you really anticipated my questions, and I appreciate the slow and deliberate approach you take - you’re a terrific teacher, bravo! Think I will order the lazercut ply template from you when I’m ready to start the build. Only mod I’d consider would be a wood batten across the top of plate to keep it ‘down’ and in contact with case sides. Want to honor your no-drill approach, which is a good standard. Heading for a three week largely off-grid camp/fish with our son whose recently moved to MT, so will update you on my preparations. Thanks so much for the clarity and technical precision you’ve offered here. Going to check out your other videos, soon I’ll be overconfident. Um, not. Cheers to you!
The 4-in-1 socket panel already has a volt-meter as part of it, but you could certainly add a different style of volt meter if you wanted. The great thing about a project like this is you can use whichever style connections you like, including Anderson Power Poles. I know the HAM Radio guys seem to like those.
Interesting project with a lot of useful ideas. I understand why you used crimped connections as opposed to soldered, but I use di-electric grease to protect crimped connections.
THANK YOU ! "Solar generator" is a stupid term. I ask people how much "solar" does it generate. I like and use Anderson Power poles instead of banana plugs. A very well done video.
Just found your fantastic video and i have to say, FINALLY, someone has come out with a good explanation video on the solar ammo can. I'm a visual learner and i've been looking for a long time for someone to give a set-up demo on this subject and to take the mystery out of it. After watching your video i am now confident i can build my own for my emergency radio go box, thank you thank you thank you.
Thanks, Michael. There's a LOT of videos out there on similar projects, but I never found a good video with clear directions, that looked good and was easy to understand. I thought a lot of other people were looking for the same, so I sat down to make this. Glad you liked it!
Just came across your video and it’s really good detail for the items needed, am Uk 🇬🇧 based and looking for a similar solar panel as will be using this when fishing but struggling to find a similar sized solar panel to what you have for this at 15 watt panel any help ?
That is exactly what I thought. Lots of guys who doing Ammo can like that missing that velcro could solve lots of their issues. I was thinking to use velcro to hold all the stuff. That is the way to go! You as well could add a little car Ham radio in it...=D In that case, I would put the battery in the corner instead of the center, farther away from the radio, and add an antenna connector(s) on the top. Plural or singular depends on if you have just a 2 band radio or quad band radio...
Burger job I like it I would put couple plastic containers between the battery that we can put stuff in it and it won’t move the battery neither you’re done at two I’m in a good idea but I like the way you got it set up I like that very good job thanks I’m trying to make one myself for a couple of them for my CB radio
Thank you for a great, informative video. You explained everything slowly, in detail, and very easy to understand. I will make an exact duplicate once I gather all the components. Thank you very much. Subscribed!!
Very well presented and I appreciate the time it has taken to cover the planning and installation in detail. I am glad I came across your video after watching the other videos that did not offer your alternative! Thanks very much.
Not to take anything away from your box, but I think you should glue to the side of box to reduce fatigue from plugging and unplugging items. Especially since the backer board is very thin plywood.
Hi Steve! Thanks. One of the reasons why I planned this out was because of a number of long-distance canoe/camping trips I've gone on with my Dad and my brothers. My NOT modifying the Ammo Can case, it's totally water-proof. I would often toss my cell-phone inside it to charge and have the cover latched. That way, if we ever overturned a canoe, both my phone and the other contents of the case would be allright. Of course, also make sure to tether it.
Take a look at the utility box #64113 for this project. That is what I am using. Lid has storage for accessories and the internal caddy has plenty of room for connectors & gauges. Also using the linear connection cluster rather than the square.
The 12VDC load output from the solar charge controller should be fused as well. I also recommend 6 wire ferrule connectors crimped on the solar charge controller wires. I would have velcro'd the battery to the bottom of the box for replacement.
Nice build Benjamin. It's been about one year since you built this and I'm just wondering how your battery is holding up? I built a similar system but decided to use lithium iron phosphate cells for the increased cycle life, and 90% usable watt-hours over the 50% of the let acid batteries. Anyway your build is an inspiration, and it's nice to see others following along. Thanks for sharing your video.
Instead of using the automotive blade fuse holder which requires disassembly to access, install a pushbutton resettable circuit breaker with a boot cover to protect it from moisture and debris. Then you simply push the button to reset and you do not need to carry a box of fuses. Costs about two dollars.
Exactly the video i was looking for. As a non electric guy and love to fly drones who needs charging... perfect video with excelent explaining. 1 thing... where did you get the toolbox? Where online? Thanks very much !
Very nicely done video. Rather basic and I feel dated due to the lead acid... (but maybe not everyone has hundreds of old 18650 cells in their garage and is blind to all batteries beside lithium ones.) I liked the comment about using silicone to attach stuff, I often forget about silicone and spend way to much time trying to mount stuff when just a little silicone would do the trick perfectly. On the 18v adapter and charge controller. Don't many of those PWM controllers lack an inductor and just connect the input to output with a mosfet directly until the battery hits the peak voltage and then they disconnect the two? If so I would think most 18 volt adapters would not like being treated like a constant current source and being connected to a ~13 volt battery? Seems the adapter might think it is being shorted over and over? It would be interesting to look at the current waveform being drawn by the charge controller from that 18v adapter. (I personally always use CC/CV chargers now because lithium stole my heart...) Nice to know the reverse polarity protection actually works :-) Anyway nice video. Thank you for sharing.
Lithium and 18650s are great, but beyond "entry level" for most people. I wanted as many people as possible to learn and be able to do a project like this. If you already work with lithium cells, move to the head of the class!
That 18 volt supply is a switching power supply as used on laptops and tablets. It will be quite happy to provide a constant voltage and current. You keep saying "adapter". Why? My problem would be with the waveform of the inverter. It is a "modified sine wave" and not a "pure sine wave" source. If you can, then look a the a/c output on an o'scope. It is certainly NOT a sine wave. The peak voltage of that pulse exceeds 120 volts.
Great video! As an electrician, I wouldn't recommend quick connects because of the higher amperage. Solder or wire nuts or crimped connectors are better because of more surface contact with the wire is reliable over time.
@@JonJon501 Depends on how much current the load pulls from the battery. I overloaded my battery box (which has a smaller battery) and popped the 25 AMP main fuse...
Thank you very much for sharing this project. I wanted to get something to power my depth finder and lights on my boat and this was just the trick. Very informative and easy to follow. Great job Ben!
