Let me know your thoughts on the front baffle! I am thinking either the same figured curly maple but keeping it in its natural color for more of a 2 tone look or going high gloss piano black.
Matt, you are a real craftsman. I remember the great job you did with that curved top project. That was a bold choice and it tuned out great! I have finished many gunstocks and only one in maple. That was the hardest one I ever did.
Thanks Mike, if I could go back I might go about it slightly different, maybe a slightly different black tone of dye on the second coat to highlight the figure in the maple but either way I am pretty happy with the result.
Great video Matt. These are excellent sounding DIY speakers! I built a pair of Critons with the upgraded x-over for post-covid ‘therapy’ and they are my most audiophile-sounding speakers. I enjoy them over my Elac Unifis and Wharfedale Lintons. They are smooth and refined and handle as much power as I can throw at them. I would encourage anyone interested in end-game bookshelf sound on a budget to give these serious consideration. And no, I don’t work for CSS. But they are that GOOD.
This one will have the upgraded crossover as well, comments like these make me excited to wrap these up and bring them into my system. Thanks for sharing!
@@MattCoykendall1I went into my first DIY speaker build cold turkey, had to buy lots of clamps, a router, several bits and of course learn how to use them, then came the soldering etc. But the CSS kit makes it easy and enjoyable. It is RU-vidrs like yourself that made it approachable for someone relatively inexperienced, like I was. I hot press-veneered my set with a traditional walnut and finished with a matte finish lacquer - about 8 coats with sanding in between. I will look forward to your finished speaker and your review👍
Looks like a fun build! Right up my alley. Combines two great hobbies. I think you may have just inspired me to try this. FYI Titebond Titebrush might come in handy. Glu Bot is also invaluable.
I just got hold of a pair of Tannoy Eatons from my wifes uncle, which were rotting away in his garage.The cabinets are toast, but miraculously, the drivers are intact and working, as are the electronics (though the crossovers and controls will need rebuilt, which I can do). If I had the skills, the tools, and the workspace, I would love to build new cabinets myself. As it is, I will need to recruit some help. They are too nice to bin or sell for parts. Happily my wife has lots of uncles, one of whom is a cabinetmaker.
I completely get that feeling, when I run into interesting gear from the 70’s it’s hard for me to just let it rot away. I picked up a complete system, receiver, turntable and speakers from a gentlemen who purchased it while deployed and brought it back to the US in the early 70’s, I fixed everything back up but truthfully don’t really have a use for it, still glad I bought it.
I always wonder why no one seems to use a small air nailer for the build process of a cabinet, just to help hold everything together till the glue sets up or until you can clamp it. Looks good!
May I ask? You glued the boxes together without the front panel. Was there concern the front panel wouldn't have enough clearance to slip in afterwords? Thx.
The titebond II I used is also a PVA glue, it’s just difficult to wipe off when you have 120 clamps in the way like me haha. I agree though , it’s the way to go.
I do have a decent amount in tools here like clamps but the good news is since kits like this are CNC cut you could actually put it together with tape and still get everything sealed up.
@MattCoykendall1 ... Doesnt answer my question. 😇 You nailed the spirit of the " You don't need pricey tools to make it ".. but I genuinely want to know.
Awsome work! Love the finish! I went with their Baltic Birch flat pack and finished it with Bee Nooba hard wax. It came out great! Here's the reason and the review on why I went with the brand ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6zpJJri1XOM.htmlsi=xy0RLcUCZaM-4yBl Edit: where is part II? 😆
