Oh my gosh!! You even put the hitbox in the thumbnail. That is awesome dude. Thanks for using my work in a build video!! I'm always trying to do better. Feedback is the only way that will change. Good or bad. Thank you!!!!
@@HushMySweet1 I really recommend buying your enclosure instead of making it yourself. By making it yourself, you take the risk of measuring mistakes and your buttons won't have the proper alignment which in term can beat the purpose of saving your wrists. I made my own out of a first aid case and it was very good. Now I have the real thing and although it cost me an arm and a ball, the quality is unmatched AND I have a renown company to complain to, along with a good waranty. Also, the all 30mm layout is good if you have very large hands. If you have average to small hands, you are gonna find yourself floating your hands for commands and missing buttons. ALSO, by making your own you can run into problems like parts not being available (like the fighting boards), defective parts (like my defective zero pi), mail problems etc. $90 can go a really long way in scratching your itch, so you really need to think about the balance between a $90 expense now or playing on pad or whatever you have for a couple weeks more and getting a real quality product.
One extra note for others when flipping the Neutrik, please don't forget to make sure the metal tab slides into the small indent on the USB-A end when screwed in. It's much harder to screw in the other way, but is also an electrical hazard.
Hey, good looking out. I am in the middle of putting my first stick together, and have the thing opened up on my desk right now. Stumbled upon your comment, and quickly got that metal tab corrected; big thanks!
At least SOMEONE educated me. I was needing a tutorial of how to navigate myself around the universal arcade board and I didn't realize it was simple as that. Apart from the ps5 add on. But this helped a lot. And I decided to add more of these parts that he picked so that I am more professional with arcade stick building. So this has helped a lot.
Nice! And depending on your required system(s) compatibility, you may be able to go with a cheaper board setup. Look into the GP2040-CE boards. Or if you need everything, a Brook fusion will likely be cheaper than using a Universal + daughterboard add-on like I did here. Anyway, good luck with the build!
@@HushMySweet1 i actually went with a brook xb fighting board. I have ps5 and series x, but play primarily on xbox for my fighting games. I also got very lucky and snagged a fgc wingman on preorder, so I should be able to use almost anything on the ps5 going forward. I've played on stick for 9 years now, and finally decided I wanted to see what hitbox feels like to play on, so why not make my own?
I hear that! The arcade/joystick nostalgia hits hard for me too! I have another video building out a traditional fightstick if that's more up your alley. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Gorgeous build. Great vid, wish it had existed back in 2019 before I bought a custom leverless. Very tempted to build one now… keep up the great work, Hush
This video is amazing! I followed it and built my own hitbox for x360 in 1 hour. Everything works as expected. The enclosure and parts from allfightsticks are awesome and very high quality! BTW: I asked questions before and got responses from HushMySweet but I removed the comments since my primary display name is too unique and can easily be searched. :)
Just designed and 3D printed a hit box style leverless fight stick. It was fun and surprisingly easy. Only cost me $30. Most expensive part was the RPI Pico board.
Yoooo you're video just popped up in my recommendations and it was really informative, entertaining, and relaxing to watch. I never built anything like this before, but seeing how creative people can be with their builds is really something tbh 👌
Thanks for watching and leaving a nice comment! Yeah, people can definitely get really wild with some of their sticks and I think that's part of the allure. You can mod and customize and tweak to your heart's content! Really fun hobby.
I just converted from my Ps5 controller to an Obsidian 2 as a new fighting game player because of SF6. I’m definitely gonna come back to this video when I get proficient enough with the stick.
You should definitely try it with at least one. I still prefer joysticks myself, but some of the input shortcuts and cool things you can do with an all-button controller are just great.
lol nice! Likewise whenever anyone needs help building a 38+button Potemkin stick out of a strawberry box, I've got the link to your channel ready to go! Thanks for watching, dude!
Thank you so much for this video. It's like you knew I was smashing thru Focus Attacks page and needed help. Seriously the Neutrick was crucial information
Nice, I preffer the mix box, I like the keybaord keys for movement, although I wish their was a way to use R3 and L3 as buttons in the space and shift position, they should add 2 extra buttons on every arcade stick for R3 and L3, just cause I think arcade sticks and all button controlers should have all of the buttons
Nice! Yeah, you can even use drop-in Odins in normal joystick holes for some arrowkey-style stuff if that's your preference. I also like extra buttons!
the button spacing and size is a little more important than just the looks. the games you want to play with them for example may require more buttons than some have available. smash controllers need a minimum of 20. also the size of the players hand and their comfortable hand splay come into factor. some people with smaller hands may have a hard time reaching all the buttons, or someone with large hands may feel cramped. id recommend printing a few popular layouts for the games you wanna play and testing them to see how they feel. people like me have made edits to some layouts based on what i talked about earlier. i have a Boxx layout that has smaller buttons but they are spread out a bit more and the clusters are closer. i have large hands but i rest my elbows outwards so resting angle was weird before i changed it. the layout can make or break your experience with the rectangles, so i highly recommend experimenting before you commit to your first. ALSO: Rectangles are for everyone. if you try it and think "this isnt for me" then its probably the style of layout you have an issue with, not the rectangles themselves. there are style that use the cardinal dirrections in the shape of WASD which is easier for some people to wrap their head around. just like regular controllers when you first started playing games, you have to put a little practice in. learn what each of the buttons are. practice going through menus and settings first, THEN jump into the games. mine has color coded buttons that represent a GC controller. my next controler will have letters engraved on the buttons since it will be for pc games.
I just took an in-depth look on layouts in a recent video. I agree they are very important and people should embrace ergonomics to maintain health and enable more people to play. Thanks for watching!
What are you talking about the switch doesn’t even have 20 buttons. For smash you’d need 4 face, 4 directional, 2 bumpers, and 2 triggers, you’d also only really need 1 bumper and trigger. That’s only 10 buttons…
@@nitoyep3366 for smash these all button controllers dont use analog sticks. Look up smashboxx and count the buttons. There is a lot more going on here than you realize.
Scary task to apprehend at first but the hitbox prices are getting ridiculous, there's basically nothing under 250, and even if the price wasn't an issue they're pretty much always out of stock right now. I'll have to give building one a try.
One thing of note is that customs can start to balloon in price if you don't keep things in check. (custom cut case, premium buttons, custom art, top PCB, etc.) So, make sure you know what systems you need compatibility with and get the most appropriate PCB for the job. If it has to play on PS5, that's expensive right now, but so are many over-the-counter options so I guess pick your poison. Good luck with the build!
building one like this looks tempting but i've ordered a normal pre built one because im scared i will pay all this money for the parts but a lack of diy experience might mean i'll mess things up and it won't work. i ordered the razar kitsune yesterday from amazon and its taking till september 30th! ....and today when i looked the date had been pushed back to october 7th for anyone ordering one today. this to me suggests that there is a waiting list due to it's popularity and they cannot build them fast enough to keep up with demand.
@@ANM21985 I also wanted to get the kitsune, but unfortunately it seems like there's a European tax on it, on the us website it's 300 and on the eu one it's 350 for the base model. Amazon seems like the price is just under 300 right now but they specify that the import fees can go higher that what they are right now.
Don't even care for the video, I've subscribed and gave you like just for the magnificent Uber Thick Ryu on the thumbnail. And now I'll watch the video. Seriously, badass thumbnail, I'm laughing my ass off (respectfully, because I don't wanna get some from Uber Ryu).
@@HushMySweet1 and thank you again for the thumbnail, and for the great educational video. I'm a carpenter among other occupations (electrician, and I'm good with anything that has access to internet as a repairman (both hardware and software/educator (mostly older folks/not so bright millennials)) so I'll give it a try. Cheers 🥂
I've been using Gearhead with Jolt and Surveillance and it has been working for me pretty well while playing Deathslinger. I don't have many of the other more meta gen regression perks and this combo is pretty good during late game
-Enclosure -Custom art/plexi overlay -Brook Fusion PCB (all systems) -(OR)Pico Advanced Breakout Board version 4.0 (cheaper non-Brook PCB option) -12 face buttons +3-6 aux buttons (choose appropriate sizes, 24mm or 30mm) -Quick connect 20-pin harness -Neutrik -Neutrik boot -USB Type A to B cable -12” USB A to B (can be angled) -PCB feet -4-pin L3/R3/touchpad -JLF (5-pin) to all button layout conversion harness Good luck with the build!
Most every fightstick I've seen, minus the tiny little Junk Food Micros and such, utilize USB-B plug-ins to the stick. You can get 10' of USB-A to B for less than $10 from most arcade part suppliers, so they are easy enough to obtain. There are definitely other connection types, but I felt this one was pretty standard. Thanks for watching!
Just a quick observation: Brook universal fighting board + PS5 upgrade cost about same as a new Qanba Drone 2 fighting stick, which is PS5 ready, can be easily disassembled for PCB, and you get the control panel and the touchpad already connected, plus eight 30mm buttons, plus lever, which you may sell later. Just something to think about.
I get what you're saying (though I can't imagine anyone lining up to buy those components...the buttons in the Drone 2 were ass). Customs can really come at a premium, so that's why I advocate custom layouts (not shown here, but you get the idea), custom art, and your favorite lever and buttons. Really lean into it and make it truly your own, but you're right, the costs can really balloon and if you don't know what you want yet, it might be better to start with a default off-the-shelf stick until you determine your preferences. I'd still go with a Pearl or Fighting Edge over that Drone 2 though.
It would have been great to add the cost of each part you ordered as you built. Compare the cost of building your own versus buying something like a Snackbox Micro or Hitbox. Do the sum of the parts add up to being more than just biting the bullet?
I didn't want to scare people off. You can really make them super expensive or lean into cheaper components. This one was more expensive than a regular Hit Box. But! It plays on more systems (the Brook Universal plus a PS5 daughter board is like $150 by itself) and the one piece wooden enclosure is infinitely cool imo. That's subjective, but you get the idea. If you want something cheaper, repurpose a backgammon board for your enclosure and utilize a cheap PCB, something like a Brook Zero or a board which uses GP2040-CE firmware. Neither will play on PS5, but there are ways to keep costs down. If you play on PC, I'm certain you could make a cooler Hit Box yourself for cheaper than the official one. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video. All these small businesses getting attention is a good thing but I feel that the prices are getting ridiculous. You know its bad when Razer's going to release their own for about $300, meaning they have huge overhead to make up for lesser sales volume. Btw heads up that jxkdesigns and the bottom etsy links have the seller on hiatus, while the top etsy link leads to an unavailable item. The link at the bottom in your description refers to this video instead of your Neutrik video.
Hey, thanks for the corrections! The hiatus tags come and go, but most builders have been slammed recently with the SF6 launch. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Since I am only giong to be using PC I went with the zero-pi PCB however, your parts list has a 4 pin harness for "Brook Universal" will this same harness work for the zero-pi or do I have to find an alternative?
Is there such thing as a 6-pin wiring harness which fits this setup? Personally I’m really not a fan of how the left pinkie is just standing there doing nothing on mass-manufactured leverless controllers, and having a button there for the pinkie is the big reason I’d want to make a custom
No, but you can always make your own wiring harness. Something to consider would be to use the L3/R3/touchpad harness addition and instead of placing those buttons on the side as auxiliary training room options, to place them on the top alongside the normal buttons (one next to your left pinkie in your case) and then just remap them to the desired function in the game. That should also be CPT-compliant.
Awesome vid!! 2 quick questions: What if i wanted the stick and the hitbox style in the same cabinet? You got a vid foe that? Also, you updated the firmware on the video quick, how is that part done?
1) I don't have a video for that, but if you're using a PCB like this (coming off a PS4 or PS5 or something), you can use the 20-pin harness for the joystick like you see here (just skip that all-button conversion harness). Then, utilize the screw terminal block to wire in grounds and cardinal directions for the hitbox style. If you're playing older games that don't use proper SOCD cleaning on the software side, then you may also need a Magician's SOCD Cleaner from BitBang Gaming. I'm assuming you're meaning you want something like a Hitstick with your comment (and I do have a video on that). If you want like a 1-player fightstick and a player-2 Hitbox style, then you can also do that, but you'll need two different PCBs. 2) When updating the Brook board, download the appropriate firmware from their website. Then use the launcher. Then, they will prompt you to hold down two different buttons (I think it's start and select, but read their interface to doublecheck that). Once you're holding down the buttons, connect your fightstick to your computer via the USB. It should recognize and give you the option to "start" the process. Click start and it should take less than 10 seconds to update. Click finish and disconnect. The firmware you want for CPT rules is called "Tournament" I believe. If you don't want that style of SOCD cleaning for whatever reason, you can choose the other option.
And they get easier every gen! Just basic plug-and-play stuff these days, so it's never been a better time to get into the hobby or just make your own custom one-off controller. Super satisfying! Make sure to post your custom all-button device on r/fightsticks to show if off once you finish. Thanks for watching and best of luck with the build!
Question.... why on the grounds on one side for the action buttons and on the other side for the auxiliary buttons? Just curious and scared to try it the first time.
The ground doesn't matter as long as it's there. You could mix and match every other button if you so chose. If you look at the two button prongs, they are identical. So don't be scared! You've got this! Good luck with your build.
Quick question. Do you have video with the same kind of build but with extra buttons for movements and attacks and how thats wired? I see a lot of people are doing that now and personally i would mind duplicating a couple buttons to help with finger placements and dexterity.
I don't, but I'll add it to the list. Basically you'll wire it normally like you see here with a 20-pin harness, but then grab some extra wires to stub into the screw terminal block at the appropriate points. You'll need two coming off each extra button, to a ground and the new function, but both are labeled on that screw terminal block (it's like the raised blue thing on the edge with all the little screw heads in a row).
The neutrik is too big for my case sadly, is there a cleaner way to connect my 4-pin usb harness to a usb port instead of using that big passthrough? Would that require soldering?
Not necessarily. There are USB C Jack to USB A Jack round connections, but I'm not sure if that would really be much smaller. Did you check out the other "Shadow fightstick..." vid on this channel? You can skip the neutrik completely if you need to and just have a small hole for the cord (but the problem is your cable will not be detachable). Hope that helps.
Great vid, the only problem I see now is that all the links for the suggested enclosures you mentioned are either sold out or non existent anymore :( so that defeats the whole purpose of the vid
With SF6 bringing people to the FGC in droves, many builders are in short supply. But fightstick enclosures go in and out of stock so you can check back. You can check out BnBs on Focus Attack, different vendors on etsy, or consider building your own. The guy I got this enclosure from in this very video still sells stuff. So yeah, look around and see what you like that's available. There's definitely still stuff out there.
4-40 machine screw plus nut... I don't know the exact size of the bit I used here. I just grabbed one and sized its diameter to the screw itself so there would be some bite, but there wouldn't be an issue trying to screw it down.
Does that circuit board also work for PSV? The hitbox idea looks great. It would take a while to get used to. I could see a hybrid of both ideas on a fight stick. Got to wonder if there is a way to count as charging for a move such as chun li or guile, from holding down a button and you can still go in the primary direction you want to move. If that is possible then it will be a game changer. The buttons do seem to let you do special moves faster, but movement itself will not be as accurate. With a hybrid you can grab the stick and could still use the right hand thumb to still hold down certain buttons if duplicate buttons were placed where the right thumb could still hold them down and only have to slightly shift to hold certain ones. It could be just two more buttons next to the other bottom thumb button. They could be buttons that hit both bottom and right, and bottom and left at the same time. That covers both charges depending on character facing.
I think you've touched on Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Direction (SOCD) cleaning whether you realized it or not. There's a lot of information about that topic so definitely search it up to better understand. In a nutshell though, some games will clean your inputs and sometimes you need to make sure your hardware is cleaning your inputs so that you're in tournament compliance. For example, when you hold left and then hit right, that is an impossibility in the game and so the input will be cleaned and both L and R will cancel each other out and the command will be treated as neutral. There's a bit more to it, but if you're curious, you can head down the rabbit hole of SOCD stuff. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1 yep between left and right, or up and down. It is possible in the diagonal positions to hit two contacts about the same time. Its all in the millisecond timing. If there is a 555 timer chip you can hold down a button and the output will pulse at a specific rate. If there is a pot you can adjust the rate of the pulse. This going between 2 button presses. Just have to wonder if it counts a ms release as a full release or still counts as a charge for example. Depending on the rate picked for the amount of milliseconds. Just like in the days when rapid fire controllers were being used. If the rate is too high it won't work well, but if slow it down some there is an optional setting.
One question I have. A lot of computer keyboards have lots of different caps. They feel, press, spring, resist, and sound different. Im assuming the keys for boxes are the same? If so, is there any way to test them out without buying a bunch of every kind and throwing them all in boxes and testing them out then?
I have a video elsewhere on this channel "Fightstick button options - Which arcade buttons should you..." that will help you get pointed in the right direction. If you have a particular keyswitch type preference, you can look into installing those into a button housing that will accept them. There's another video here where I go through a lot of different switch feels with a Snack Box Micro. They are all low profile, but most can be found in full sized versions if you want to go that route.
Is there a discord? I'm in the process of making a box using some scrap 2x4 I have and I wanna know what the minimum requirements for inner dimensions is. I'd also like to look at other DIY boxes for more ideas.
It's going to depend on your parts. If you have like Punk Workshop ultra thin buttons (or you are comfortable soldering connections on the side of standard Sanwa prongs), you can get by with a thinner enclosure. Similarly, some levers are more shallow than others. Here is the r/fightsticks discord link: discord.gg/qmXS8xbM
@@HushMySweet1 I'm kind of a disorganized and fast worker. I've ripped a scrap 2x4 I own into pieces to make the box 18" x 8" x 2" with a quarter inch room for error and now my roadblock is finding a way to create a layout for my top board so I can make a template for the art I'm going to make. Also need to find a way I'm going to mount the top and bottom boards. I think the top will be a plexi with my art printout and a thin layer of plastic under and the bottom will either be cork or some other thin board I can get my hands on.
@@ekeclout3941 It sounds like it will all come together in the end (maybe not in the usual order or with the usual materials, but that doesn't always matter). Best of luck with the project and you'll have to post it on r/fightsticks when you finish so I can be sure to see it.
The Brook Universal PCB supports XBOX SERIES X|S, Xbox One, Xbox 360, PS4, PS3, Wii U PC, Switch, NEOGEO mini, PS Classic and MD mini. So you would need really nothing new. You could remove the PS5 daughter board add-on. Or, if you wanted to save some coin on the Universal PCB since those can be spendy, is just get a Brook Xbox PCB (usually like $35) and roll with that instead. Good luck!
What's the total price of something like this? Also isn't using a keyboard almost the exact same or even faster in some cases (if you have optical switches for example)?
The one here was probably like $300, but you can build them much cheaper if you need to. Most of the costs are in the enclosure and trying to get it to play on PS5. PS5 PCB stuff alone is like $130. Some people do use keyboards and they work fine as well. A lot of the time keyboards aren't allowed at CPT offline events, so that may be an issue if you go to a lot of tourneys (but really, most people are cool and don't care...play how you want, ya know). Thanks for watching!
High great video and going for it step by step and everything I would like to build my Own hit box but is there anything extra that I would need to add if I were to make one for my Xbox
You would need to confirm the PCB works on Xbox. I used a little daughterboard add-on here just for PS5 play that you could obviously skip. Brook has good products, but there are also options in the form of some advanced breakout boards with GP2040-CE firmware. I have another video that is much more recent than this one of me building out a joystick build and I demo the PCB I'm talking about. You would just need to get a Mayflash dongle for Xbox to install in it if that's the route you choose to go. Xbox-specific Brook boards may be pretty cheap these days, so you may be able to skip that. Still, the vid is likely worth a watch to give you a few more ideas (and then just skip the joystick and go with an all-button harness like you see in this video, since they are very, very similar)
would this be difficult to translate to a mixbox with WASD keys? Im thinking about putting one together with my dad but im leaning more towards a mixbox layout
Not necessarily difficult. To keep it simple, I would probably just use a drop-in Odin V2. It already has the arrowkeys and just drops into a standard Japanese-lever-sized hole. Then, you run your 5-pin joystick harness from the 20-pin directly to the Odin (you won't need an all-button conversion harness like you saw in this build). Look at the "imsorryjon" build on my very first video on this channel to see what I mean. You can order the switch types and colored plates you want, and they sell the Odin V2 units on Etsy. I think that will be the easiest way to make an arrowkey build. Good luck.
Yes, I agree. I think it's done so both hands can easily access the jump function. But if you're going full custom, may as well go with the best custom layout for you! Thanks for commenting and good luck with your build!
I'm talking about building an all-button controller and the steps and parts required to do so. These devices are like arcade sticks (controllers often used in fighting games), but instead of a joystick for the directional inputs, ones like the one featured in this video utilize only buttons. Did you have a specific question?
got a question, my wiring seems to be correct but my down button doesnt work. Tried a different button and doesnt work either could it be a faulty wire?
I'm building my own Rooflebox based similar to the one you made for Rooflemonger. Aside from the different amount of 24/30 buttons and the JonyFraze case I ordered, are all the components shown in this video able to be used in building the Rooflebox with the amounts purchased?
Should be about the same. You'll need to use two extra wires with .110 quick disconnect for the second jump function. I think I used everything else you see there though. Good luck with the build.
@@HushMySweet1 Is the .110 disconnect wire a part of one of those items already purchased? Or do I need to just buy two of them instead of one? And it would all fit on the universal?
@@Osborne4Life You will need them in addition to what you are already getting. You can make them yourself if you have the wire and quick disconnects, but if you're just buying, you can grab them in packs of 16 (but you'll only need 2). Then, you'll attach them to the second jump, cut to the appropriate length to the PCB screw block terminal and then strip the ends slightly and stub them in to the up function and a ground. focusattack.com/16pc-22-awg-wire-with-110-quick-disconnect/
I haven't done that particular mod, but I think Arcade Shock used to produce all-button panels, but AFAIK they have been discontinued. If you could find one secondhand from a user in the r/fightsticks discord, that would speed things up. But if not, you could probably mock up something and have it printed on a site like SendCutSend. Then, probably a conversion harness for the internals. (But I don't have an FE open to look at the wiring currently.) Good luck with the conversion. www.reddit.com/r/fightsticks/comments/k9hgej/fighting_edge_hitbox_conversion/
Everything in the vid is premade and you can just order the components directly from arcade part suppliers. The one exception is the wooden enclosure, but you can commission the same guy to get yourself a similar one, or order a standard, over-the-counter enclosure from any number of vendors. So you should be able to buy your parts and start your build.
How thin can a hitbox be with those Sanwa buttons and pcb? I don’t have the time or tools for making a custom flatbox and would rather make one of these but slimmer. Thanks
This one in the vid is about 2.5" thick and has roughly 1.5" of usable internal space, but I wouldn't go much slimmer than that. You can bend the prongs ever so slightly to get the back to close over the connection points and wiring. You could also solder the wires to the sides of the prongs to get a bit more clearance, but you're going to increase the time and difficulty of the build substantially beyond just pressing some prongs on.
I don't know what PCB you have, but you may be able to swap it for a Fusion board or something. Or, maybe a simpler solution is just buying the Brook Wingman converter to enable PS5 compatibility.
I believe it came from ArcadeShock. They have Guilty Gear and BlazBlue ones still up, but I didn't see their SFV stock. arcadeshock.com/products/guilty-gear-xrd-sanwa-denshi-limited-edition-pushbuttons-30mm?_pos=72&_sid=1b9aac993&_ss=r
There is a Brook daughterboard add-on hooked to a UFB in this video. You can also get a Brook PS5 converter if you're using a different PCB. However, since this video, Brook now has a dedicated PS5 board, and then there are the RP2040-CE-based boards with the passthrough feature which enables compatibility on most PS5 fighting games as long as you insert the appropriate dongle (something like a Magic Boots).
Copied/pasted from a comment down below: Unless you're buying premium components, most of the money that goes into these controllers is spent on the enclosure and the PCB. This one I went all out on the PCB for demo purposes since several people may want an upcoming SF6 option for the PS5. Just the two PCBs totaled around $150. The case was $100. Then I went with an art button ($10) and doubled up on the fourteen 24 mm ones to change the rims which isn't necessary (and I don't really count in the total since I'll use the extras for another project). All in, this build was probably around ~$325, but you can total everything from the screen captures in the video if you need an exact number. That number may seem daunting, but it's fairly in line with some of the over-the-counter Hitbox-style options. If you can get by with a cheaper PCB (if you only play PC, then you can really go with a cheaper alternative to the Universal board), or if you can build your own enclosure and/or don't really care what it looks like (hobby box, Rubbermaid container, repurposed briefcase or backgammon board, etc.), then you can trim that cost down to the price of a hole saw. Good luck with your build!
Does this same wiring setup work for other types of fighting games? I assume the punch and kick buttons can be rebound like any others but asking just in case
Yeah, this is a very standard layout. You can always manually change wires to work for whatever, but most modern games allow you to map a function to each button, so it would work fine that way too. So you should be covered.
They are only like $10 or less, but you can do fine without one. Just tie a knot in the cable so it can't be pulled through the hole. Check my other "Shadow Fightstick" vid to see what I mean.
Hi. If I want to build one with the original HB layout with an extra thumb button will I have to change anything else like the 20 pin connector or a different PCB?
You can do everything as you see, but you'll need to make use of the screw terminal block in addition to that 20-pin connection. You can wire two .110 wires to the board (a ground and an up function), and these use the other ends of the wires (I'd recommend having quick connect ends) to stub into the additional up button. Good luck!
Yeah, a lot of older builds just drilled a hole and then tied a knot in the cord so it couldn't be pulled through. It works in a pinch, you just can't detach the cord. Good luck!
Unless you're buying premium components, most of the money that goes into these controllers is spent on the enclosure and the PCB. This one I went all out on the PCB for demo purposes since several people may want an upcoming SF6 option for the PS5. Just the two PCBs totaled around $150. The case was $100. Then I went with an art button ($10) and doubled up on the fourteen 24 mm ones to change the rims which isn't necessary (and I don't really count in the total since I'll use the extras for another project). All in, this build was probably around ~$325, but you can total everything from the screen captures in the video if you need an exact number. That number may seem daunting, but it's fairly in line with some of the over-the-counter Hitbox-style options. If you can get by with a cheaper PCB (if you only play PC, then you can really go with a cheaper alternative to the Universal board), or if you can build your own enclosure and/or don't really care what it looks like (hobby box, Rubbermaid container, repurposed briefcase or backgammon board, etc.), then you can trim that cost down to the price of a hole saw. Good luck with your build!
You need an idea for an enclosure? JonyFraze, EternalRival, Mavercade, Bueno Woodworking, Arborcade, Junk Food Customs, and All Fight Sticks all have enclosures ready to go.
You can use whatever you want. For the detachable cord, the usb b goes into the fightstick and the usb a connects to the pc or console. Some people will use usb c. This is just one way to do it.
Hi, I have some questions 1. Is the button layout the same for Tekken? 2. What are the measurements of the case? 3. Can I use USB-C instead of USB-A? Thanks in advance!
1. Yes, but you can cut whatever you'd like that will fit you best. I have another video talking about layouts (specifically for SF6) but most layouts work well across multiple fighting games. 2. This case is 16" x 10". 3. Yes, but you'll need to use a different connection port outside the Neutrik I have in this vid. 4. Good luck with the build!
It's hard to say because it depends largely on two factors: 1) the enclosure itself (if you can repurpose something or make your own with a plastic container or an old backgammon board or something, it can stay low), and 2) the PCB...if you only need PC play, then it will stay cheap, but if you require PS5 compatibility, it will get much more expensive.
If you're in the US, you can order from Focus Attack, Arcade Shock, Paradise Arcade, or Arcade Renovations. Some offer certain brands or colors exclusively.
@@HushMySweet1 thanks! I’m playing on ps5 would it make more sense to buy the $120-130 brook fusion PCB rather than the $90 universal + the ps5 upgrade? Can you buy a cheaper pcb and add the upgrade?
@@Molduking Yeah, that should save you some money and get you the same results. If you need PS5 compatibility, you're stuck with those Brook options or with a cheaper PCB and a Wingman PS5 converter. Hopefully that will change soon though. Thanks for watching and good luck with the build!
Yes! It's the PCB that dictates what systems this will play on, so just choose the appropriate version. This one has a Brook Universal (plus a daughterboard add-on you wouldn't need), but a Brook Universal will play on XBOX SERIES X|S, Xbox One, and Xbox 360. So this one you see in the video will play on your preferred system. There is also a sale on the Brook website where you can grab an "XB Fighting Board - Pre-installed header version" for $35. It allows you to play games on all Xbox consoles: Xbox Series X/S, Xbox One, Xbox 360 and Xbox Original and PC. That board will be your best bet if its Xbox functionality that matters most to you. Good luck with your build.
Question, Can basically this exact setup but with split setup and the brook fusion board work? Obviously for the ps5 support like this tutorial Im a PC builder looking to make my first size 16 hit/mix box
So like 16 buttons for additional functions? Yeah, this would work, but you'll need to utilize the screw terminal block in addition to the 20-pin connection. I might also recommend a BitBang Magician's SOCD cleaner if you have a lot of buttons with the same inputs so old games with no game-side SOCD cleaning don't get wonky. But yeah, everything is basically the same. Good luck with the build.
@HushMySweet1 I asked the allfightstick discord after a bit... Looks like it might be similar to what u did here. The brook universal fusion looks like its basically the board here but with internal ps5 support. Im just using a 16" case, split leverless, 6 options buttons, lockout switch, ls,dp,rs switch. A ps5 remote normally has the exact same functions as a ps4 one... so... Idk boards looks similar and if anything fails I'll just need to ask around more lol
Not in this case, but this can play on many more systems (including the PS5) and that increases the cost substantially. If you wanted a cheaper enclosure and only needed to play on PC (so you could get by with some of the cheapest PCB offerings), you could definitely bring the cost down more.
You can do things differently. Some people use usb c and some skip the Neutrik stuff altogether and just tie a knot it in so the cord won't slip all the way through the hole. The way shown here gives you an easy way to connect to your console or PC with a breakaway cord. Thanks for watching.
