You have a level-headed, and calm approach to high level work; moreover your honesty about the diff fluid matters, as contemporary filmers cannot resist editing out near misses: appreciate the disclosure of things that have gone a little sideways! Additionally, your truss work was first level.
Dry erase board checklist for torque and tight , fluids ,bleed brakes, and so on . No gear oil will not be a best case for sure I have seen that with gears and transfer cases and it will kill stuff it a very short trip, it will let you see just how hard gear oil gets worked, fantastic job , home built garage quality is in most cases beyond what you will ever get from many shops that just think they are the poo and just want your cash , be proud that you are one of the few that is doing it all yourself as much as possible ,congrats!
Really enjoyed watching these two vids. Thanks for the detail. People fast forward through these builds and forget some of the important details. Two thumbs up, liked and subscribed👍🏻
Just FYI you can reuse those copper washers if you re-anneal them. Basically just heat it up red hot with a torch or lighter and let it cool slowly. This will remove the work hardening that happens after you tighten them down. Obviously if they're deformed or scratched you need a new one, but you can generally reuse them a couple of times. Sometimes I sand them flat if there's some small defect. Great tech vids, keep 'em up! I'm building a rear steer buggy and I love watching how different folks go about it.
Awesome videos on the rear steer build. You have taught me a lot. Im wanting to build rear steer for my disaster rescue vehicle myself just to get into tight corners like a smaller vehicle can. You address your faults and its good to know that someone acknowledges their mistakes. You go yourself another subscriber here for sure!!!
I ordered a high angle driveshaft last year, in early spring and didnt get it till end of summer..at least 4 months and $1500.. Still isnt in the truck yet, only because it weighs 50lbs and noe the transfercase cant hold it. Where as a standard stock style shaft is like 10 lbs.. Long time and cant even install it..i know the pain.
Complete newbie question here. You're taking a front axle and moving it to the back, so what modifications need to be made to get the axle driving in the right direction.
Great job. Inspired me to get back on my front steering 14 bolt! I’d really like to know what hydro hoses and fitting you used. Links to amazon or wherever. Also your brake line stuff.
I used Aeroquip FC300 hose with Eaton/Aeroquip field-serviceable fittings I bought at my local Grainger. I used -3an stainless braided brake lines and fittings from Russel that I ordered from Summit.
@tydy000mafia Just an 85' Chevy kingpin D60. Homemade truss and ram mount. Added Solid C's, Knuckles, and Arms. Running 300m RCV's. Yukon Grizzly Locker with 5.13 gears. In 11 years of hard wheeling, I have broken one axle shaft and never experienced any other failure with my front axle.
Would you mind sharing the supplier you use for brake lines and brake line fittings . Keep the videos coming ! I’m building Dana 60 and 14 bolt rear for my ls swapped CJ7 you have helped me out a bunch with your videos especially the hydraulic fitting info. Thanks Walt
Great to see you have your rear steer complete. Also learned a lot of good tech info which is why I love your videos. I’ve been contemplating building a rear steer axle for my Willys buggy for a while. Does your axle valve self center or do you have any kind of indicator to know your perfectly centered? Thanks again great video
It does not have a return to center feature because I try to keep everything on my buggy simple. I do plan on running a position indicator though, using a shift cable off one of the steering arms.
Hi again.. I am finally plumbing my hydroulic lines. PSC sent me a check valve Do you know where that goes. It is not in the diagram? I am guessing it probably goes between the pump and the rear steer valve because that is the first place that fluid travels to and would make sense so as to protect back pressure into the pump. Just asking if you put one in or know anyone that has so I am not guessing at it. Been hard to bet ahold of tech at PSC also it would be good info for others that are reading these comments.
So how have your Braniks been holding up. I have a Chevy Dana 60 front with 35 spline 4340 Ten Factory outer shafts, I break about once a year if I get in a bad predicament where the shaft steps up to the yoke. (stress riser) I’ve considered RCVs since they spline to the Bell where mine are breaking. They are quoting 16+ weeks right now and they pretty much lied to me every other time I bought from them about their ETA. I’m considering Branik Legacy shaft as well as they will be available sooner. Just looking for an honest opinion since you use and run both. For reference my rig is around 3900lbs with 43” stickies.
The Braniks are actually holding up and I still have them in the rear and haven't even put in my RCV's yet. Guys in my club have had ETA issues with Branik lately as well. The entire off-road industry is full of bullsh!t. Dynatrac, Currie, RCV, PSC, Branik, Spidertrax, Advanced Adaptors, ORI, US gear, and many others are quoting people short wait times (or telling people the item is in stock) knowing what they are saying is a lie. It's sad.
Remember, the specs on the GM 30-spline 14-bolt shafts make them just as strong as a Dana 37-spline shaft. Spline count doesn't make a shaft weaker. Nobody calls 19-spline Rockwell shafts weak. The inner shafts maintain the same thickness and profile that GM engineers designed. I kept the 35-spline outers so I can get spare parts anywhere at any time.
Did your Braniks hit on the inner c? Mine walk ovet enough to glance odd the crane inner c. Branik said not to worry about it but IDK. I may out in a spacer between the slug and the stub shaft spring clio to keeo them from wandering i. That far
@@chrisdesertdog2162 yeah it was on there. I die geinded a few thousands on the upper side of the inner c and cut about a 1/4 inch of tubing and put it over the stub between the slug and the spring clip. I had to do that on all four corners but its good now.
I would never run any of these full hydro systems on the street. Also, you better hope your rear steer never gets bumped or accidently moves while you are on the highway.
What size welding wire did you use? I did a test run on an old axle with.035 wire 75/25. I pre heated my axle and pumpkin to 400 degrees and it looked good. However my welder friend said since I'm welding to cast steel and also the crane knuckles that I would have more tensile strength with .045 dual shield flux core. Do you think its worth the hassle for me to buy and learn that stuff. Or just go for it with what I know?
Cast steel (like your Crane knuckles) are easy to weld to with a preheat and a good hot weld with a good machine. Cast iron (like your pumpkin) is very difficult to get a good weld on. Most folks THINK they are getting a good weld on cast iron because it "looks good", but are not. When welding to cast iron, I use nickel 035 wire with a good preheat and controlled cool down. On gray cast iron (which is the hardest to weld to), I usually move to stick welding. I really try to not weld to a cast iron center section if it can be avoided.
@@chrisdesertdog2162 Thank you for the info. I thought the pumpkin was cast steel. But I will make sure. Its from an older 80 truck 14 bolt I just wanted to weld the tubes and maybe the truss to it for added strength for the four link arms. Did you get to go to trail hero? Wasn't that at Sand Hollow. That's one of the places I would like to take my buggy when I'm done with it.
@@OffroadMilitia Your 14-bolt housing is cast iron, but likely ductile cast iron rather than gray cast iron (which is even harder to weld). I think the cut-off year for ductile vs gray iron was 1988 or so. I'm actually leaving for Trail Hero in about an hour!
