Thanks, very helpful. I appreciate it when folks include their errors. Helps us to avoid the same errors and also adds authenticity. The one who never makes a mistake is a liar and therefore never to be trusted.
Great video. I learned by trial and error. Some of the errors were spectacularly catastrophic. Wish this video was around 20 years ago....live and learn.😂
40 spoke MONSTER!!! its always worth splitting hairs when it comes to wheel building - i once had to rebuild a drive wheel with a gearhub using long spokes actually cut then bent onto the hub into tiny eyes - usual fix to rim... - it lasted a good year or 2 til the bike fell finally to bits 😊😊😊🚴🚴♂🚴♀
Actually since the threads are rolled on a spoke, the nipple will not bottom out. The problem is that the nipple might only engage 1 or 2 threads and strip out. I had that happen once. Do not use alloy nipples! The shanks break off and pull through the spoke holes.
Hey Bike Farmer, I built thousands? of wheels, I would have just measured the old spokes and adjusted for the ERD of the new rims...if you have the option to use 4 cross patern, the spoke length is almost the same regardless of ERD or hub flange dia..I never use spoke prep ( I hate the smell of the stuff) I prefer bee's wax or linseed oil on the threads of the spokes..never failed for me..
@tomalcolm Greetings..the spoke length for a radialy spoked wheel would be ERD-hub dia÷2..I am not a fan of radial lacing, especially on the rear wheels.. there are many good spoke length calculators on the web..QBP has a good one as well as Sapim. The key to a good wheel is to tension, true, and dish slowly and evenly.
This video is instructional - for people like me who have never built a wheel from scratch. When I buy the rim, spokes and hub, I need to know how to get the spoke length right. I don't have old spokes to measure. If you know so much about wheel building why are you even watching this?
@@sprocketandwheelreally like thoes Sapim single butted 13/14 for this wheel. Never used spoke prep either. T-9 has always worked for me. Getting the spokes properly seated and and prestressed is far more important...finally with the tire on and inflated to proper air pressure and rechecking the tension and dish as I go. Never had nipples un wined. But then again I also back check the nipple so the spokes aren't slightly twisted. I also give each spoke a tap (not to hard but firm as you don't want to put any micro cracks the eyelet of the rim. ) against the fange side down on the concrete floor until every thing stays the same... it is amazing how much the tension comes down during the first round...Anyway I believe this work hardens the spokes and my wheels stay true for a long time.
@stevengagnon4777 That is the way I build them as well..slow and even tensioning..I try to get the dishing right, and then I start increasing the tension..seating the spoke head is also a key..my favorite spokes used to be Robergell and Raedelli..I believe thay they were steel ( not stainless) strong and light..
I always thought bicicle wheels would be built by extraterrestrials that get flown in and out by the bycicle industry. Tried it out one time. I came to the conclusion its impossible to do for humans.
I always mess up the intial spoke length calculation. Might as well buy spokes +4 and -4 mm from what I think is the right length. If all else fails I can change the cross pattern, then MAYBE one of lengths I got will work 😂
