Building a CBN Grinder - Featuring the Moresuperhard 6-inch CBN Grinding wheels. Part 2 

This is very handy belt for less than 12 hp

Very cool. I have one on my drill sharpener too. Its has a specific angle.

Thank you very much!

Interesting, I'm sure you are right. I'm not sure the V is wide enough for all the misalignment to be on one side. Right now there is no belt noise and I suspect the belt will last a long time.

Good night

We can work something out.

I suspect most CBN are very good. These wheels are the cheapest available and work fantastic.

Wow, thank you Ray!

Haha... you think so? I am sometimes. My first grinder was not well made. I let the excitement of the end result get in the way of doing it right. This one I took a bit more time with.

Thank you very much!

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks

Not an issue for HSS nor carbide. Keep the temps in check.

CBN is the very best for HSS or hardened steel but soft steel will plug the grit on the wheel. It's super fast grinding with very low heat build up and the wheel does not wear. Never needs to be dressed. Technically I'm sure it will eventually wear but I suspect the wheels will last a lifetime for most. As for carbide, it will grind it but it also shortens the life of the wheel. How much I'm not sure. I've sharpened Carbide occasionally on my old grinder. I never noticed a problem but it's not something I do very often.

Thank you Shain.@@ShainAndrews

This is getting very interesting,Mark and you got 2 wheels.Tank you.@@WinkysWorkshop

@@angelramos-2005 Thanks

Thanks you sir

Gracias

My pleasure

They do better in a way. if you go straight in the tend to overload and chatter but if you move back and forth a small fraction of the radius is actually cutting and it works great. The piece in the video was hanging out of the chuck way to far but i was still able to make the cut. You need the MGEHR tool holder in the correct width to match the inserts. This is the 3mm insert www.ebay.com/itm/294714310654?hash=item449e577ffe:g:QA8AAOSwXdlh3VMv&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAA%2FU2q5Gfc5enHn1Bz2dM%2BJEXL4m0f8Zq2sadVfn0nb7QFfsSYJUG0Z%2F%2FuCe7ZEngLsvuVTHRd4UieC1Uw3%2B%2FLWYhxOps5fXgr2lI38n9qeE8YCXk95HoKXaueBziZXJRG5EVaYO946z%2BFx4VvOwheyOcLzgYM4EQD20e2iU7TRlZ%2BxCJRjLaUTMj4CVUZHITEPVaGo7NniXFEc%2F1MhvEoJwVexCP8TcTK9CFiQDfPS8gZaUFXNM9jPO4IR3YPD0hr9rQ50x1dZjAcmsCJqA%2FrChqjqvG%2FAvXV9JpuY39fKXzKm%2FLESG4Vvu5aoAISI4sQ2IxAaDmKj5iEv2GT5fObo%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6DirIyOYw

Thanks!

I suspect it does effect the fuming. If I remember right it got down to about 40 that night and I left it in about 11 hours. I probably need to compensate the time a little for cooler weather. If the temp is too cold I bring the chamber inside. Its a hard judgment to make because the wood darkens a lot when oil is applied. I have left wood in a chamber for 48 hours and it turns so dark you can't see the grain.

I was using oil... not sure why it wasn't apparent. Most the problem was a dull insert.

Perhaps just a shaft straightness issue that the wheels' rotating mass is amplifying? I"m curious if you put an indicator on the wheels' surfaces, what the runout is and what the source of any runout is.

As far as I can tell the only vibration is in the motor. It was free or nearly so but definitely has a vibration. The left wheel has a very small amount of runout but it's almost undetectable. I'd say the difference in sound is surface area of the wheels and guards and even the tool rest reproducing the motor vibration.

Thanks... not sure what boxes you are talking about. At what minute mark in the video?

Thanks! Always good to hear from you.

Thanks, Watco Danish Oil.

Cool - It's 1/4" or 6mm

Thanks the belting I have is 3/8 may be to thick

@@richardcalladine3140 That will work fine if you make the pulleys to match.

The bearings are R8-2RS and the machine tubing was 1.25" OD x .75" ID x 12" Long. The bearing is 1.125" OD so that only left 1/16" of metal around the bearing. Adequate but slightly larger might be better. It was left over from another project. The upright was thin wall 3 x 3 square tubing and the horizontal tube was 10" (center) above the base. Hope this helps.

@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you, Mark. I'm starting to gather the material.

Yep

Yes it screws onto so that I can use the spindle bore. It's ER40 collets and I got it on ebay. It looks the same as this one on amazon. I made the backing plate. amzn.to/3RU2FwB Also here's the video I made. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M1fyycTJq2A.htmlsi=uvdx33gavXuKpxsZ

Thanks!

Hey Mark I started watching the video about you making the backing plate for the collet chuck. You mentioned the name of the company but I cannot quite hear it correctly. Was it Ball?

@@tomnorton8218 I got the collets are All industrial.... Okay, I just watched my video again. I screwed up and said Ball bearing chuck when I meant to say "ball bearing nut". The nut tightens the collet more effectively by eliminating friction between the collet and nut.

Bushings would have work well although I suspect the bearing might last longer. Bushing would also be a little easier. I use them a lot but I had the bearings anyway.

I probably should have included a bit more about this. Part-3 has a good description at the end of the video but this will help you: Cubic boron nitride (CBN) is a synthetic super abrasive material that's used for grinding. It's the second hardest material after diamond, and is known for its hardness, thermal stability, and high thermal conductivity. CBN is manufactured by heat-treating hexagonal boron nitride and subjected to high-pressure forces

@@WinkysWorkshop Very cool, WW. Thanks for the explanation! Sounds like an amazing tool... and great work on the grinder, BTW.

Thanks you sir@@proto57

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Thanks, most the video is shot... I'm impressed.