Building Plans: dieter.me/prod... Building a high quality garden room / shed takes more time than people think. This small house is built just like a ordinary house.
Hi Dieter, I have been a long time follower & just to satisfy my curiosity I would like to know when you became a full time builder/woodworker, because I kind of remember that you had a quite different profession. (Love the care and precision you put in your 'sheds'!)
Looks awesome, really well built -- I love the details in the base. Elevated, plus sheeting, insulated and air sealed. Can I ask, do you vent the ceiling? Looking forward to the next video to see how you insulate the roof.
Thanks. There are ventilation, but not like a vented attic. It's a "warm" roof. It has a vapour barrier that let any moisture in the insulation out. Then there is a air gap above to make sure there is good air flow. I will show this in the next video.
Hi Dieter! Everything very neatly done, however for a Garden room - situated in nature - I would presume that all insulated&covered structures, including the floor, walls and ceiling be constructed in a manner which is 100% mice- and rat-proof. This necessitates the use of high-density thin metal nets between the insulation and cover material to avoid the intrusion of rodents. I didn't notice you taking any precautionary measures against rodents. How have you solved the problem of rodents?
Hi Dieter, I enjoyed this video very much. You are a professional. But why not use vapor barrier foil and vapor barrier foil? This prevents moisture from entering your insulation material.
Thanks! The insulation is fairly thin so it's not needed as the wood fiber boards are hygroscopic, and the wind barrier let the moisutre out. Compared to a house, this building may be unheated in periods so a vapour barrier can actually cause damage as you may get condensation on the inside. In a modern heated house with 30-50 cm insulation and balanced ventilation systems a vapour barrier is essential.
it's so nice to see someone else working!!!😅 hey Dieter_ idk if you alredy have. but can you make some videos as clear instructed as this one. on just window framing. cheers
I guess you should / could have screwed the side screws into the foundation style wood construction in diagonally? Beautiful work! That's how stuff should be done..
Just subscribed. I'm from the UK and looking to build a long wooden building to serve two purposes. Wall down the middle forming two sides - one a shed and the other a sort of summer house. Loving the build here and will definitely be looking at follow some of the methods here. Just curious, why do you have to make it almost air tight?
Thank You. For the insulation to work porperly it must be as air tight as possible, but it's also important that it let the moisture out of the building so I use a diffusion open membrane.
Awesome! I have a question: if moisture gets in under the floor, if there's a flood for example, will sealing it up underneath prevent the insulation from drying out?
@@DieterSchneider my garden is rather squishy underfoot, and water pools on the path the other side of my garden fence. Both my sheds aren't wet, but they could get damp. I think a poured concrete raft might be the only long term plan.
@@TheToolnut cheers! I don't know how far down I'd be digging to get past the clay! Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add it to the list of options to research.
@@Mikey__R Usually between 2' to 4' is sufficient. As long as your below the frost line you should be fine. If you can get a bob cat in there with an earth auger you'd have the pier holes bored in no time.
Very nice, thank you for the info as I am planning on building a wood storage about the same size on the roof of my house in Greece. It is going to be siting on the concrete roof and probably not going to built a base, as the rain water is not a big consideration, and the house roof has a slight slope which gets rid of the rain very quick. Probably will just put two layers of 2x4 with a tar layer protecting it (They don't seem to have chemical treated wood there, and don't seem to know about them), bolted to the concrete, and the walls on top of them. Three questions, which I also noticed that apply in Greece: 1. Instead of woodfiber, wouldn't it be more rigid/stronger to use plywood? I would think woodfiber is cheaper, but are there any other inherent advances over plywood? Note, Greek islands don't get below zero C often, and insulation is not as common. Also, wouldn't plywood be stronger/longer lasting than particle boards on the floor? 2. In Greece they don't have as much tradition/resources working with wood, but I am surprised how little they use metal/Simpson-like ties for stabilizing joints. Is it the same in Norway? You don't seem to use any. Here in the U.S., as you definitely know, every joint has some kind of a metal tie support. What are the advantages of not using them in Europe? Is it cost, access, tradition, need? 3. Here in the U.S. we use primarily nails for framing, very few screws, usually what we call structural screws. What kind of screws do you use? They seem like what we call here, deck screws, not actual structural screws. Am I correct? Oh, and where in Norway are you at? Just curious, only because I have a friend in Tromso. Thank you!
Thank You. 1. The reason for using these wood fiber boards is that they are hygroscopic, which means they pick up and release moisture. They are very good for insulated buildings as there are less risk of trapping moisture inside the wall. I always add bracing to the framing so rigidity is not a problem, even though the wood fiber boards are rated for structural use, and they need to have nails every 10 cm. On a non-insulated structure plywood, osb, or metal sheathing is ok. The particle boards for the floor are rated for load bearing floors, and will last for decades. 2. We do use metal ties, but mostly on roof trusses and decking, and storm ties in windy costal areas. 3. We primarily use nails here too, I like to use a combination in places where I want to pull things very tight together, especially on the battens. I use different types of screws. For the battens decing screws are fine. I'm located on the west coast south in Norway (close to Bergen). Tromsø is about 1600 kilometers away from me (24 hours to drive). I'm actually closer to Berlin, Germany than Tromsø :)
good job and end result. id use `screw clamps` when possible though. many assume two piece of material is forced together tight with screws, this often is not the case. and if so.. the gap between material often lead to a weaker(then optimal) and `squeaky` construction
@@DieterSchneider well I disagree. a long `neck` is no guarantee for the pieces to merge fully. 4:15 for example. and few of these are as tight as they could be, judging by the photage
Thanks! The insulation is fairly thin compared to a modern house so the moisture will go through the walls. It can also be risky with a vapour barrier if the building is un-heated in periods, as you may get condensation on the inside. A vapour barrier would of course be needed on a permanently heated modern house with 25-40 cm insulation and balanced ventilation systems.
Fantastisk! Er det 30 grader hikoki eller 21? Hvilken størrelse spiker bruker du for de forskjellige applikasjonene med den pistolen? Spesielt nysgjerrig på lengden av spikerne når du fester bjelke til bjelke? Samt når du slo inn de små spilene i gulvet for å holde den plata nede? Tusen takk for svar og fantastisk video som er enkel å følge for amatør!
Hi, I understand the build but why the wood fibre board on the exterior face and not (say) OSB plywood? Fibre boards aren’t exactly structurally strong? Just interested in the use of this material…. Also do you have a spec for this material?
I'm a bit unsure about the floor sheets passing under the walls like that. Won't that cause a significant thermal bridge into the flooring? You can always get away with slightly colder air inside, as long as the floors aren't cold.
The thermal bridge will be there anyway, unless there is insulation between the boards and the bottom plate. The floor will also be heated. This is also such a small building that will be heated very fast.
Is this meant to be heated ? I have build a few sheds in the past in Canada, all uninsulated/unheated and had no problems with rodents/insects. Do you have problems with rodents/insects with this type of build?
I really liked how you showed your mistake and didn’t try to hide it, we all make mistakes, I find you learn more from your own mistakes than from just being told how to do something by others. (That’s my excuse for how many mistakes I’ve made myself 😊)
It's not GU, it's wood fiber (asfaltplate). This is a very windy and rainy part of Norway (west coast), and It's common to do it this way. In drier parts of the country the woodfiber board may be enough, even though I think it's starting to get common with double wind barriers in these areas as well.
IME bugle headed screws will spit the board as the boards dry out, regardless of your drilling, allowing the board to retwist. It would be better to use flat headed screws in this situation.
Imagine it were perfectly built, definitely not over or under ... then wait a few months, and now things have worn down slightly, so now it's under-built, right? So in the end, the term overbuilt isn't particularly meaningful.
overbuild /ˌəʊvəˈbɪld/ verb past tense: overbuilt; past participle: overbuilt build (something) too elaborately or expensively. "overbuilding something will always be safer than taking shortcuts"
I would not have used this mineral wool, they lack thermal mass. I built something similar but with compressed straw in the walls, it highly participate in the bracing of the structure while also greatly improve thermal mass (straw (90%)+water+clay). Why adding silicone in the bottom structure...? Wood and silicon are not friends, it can prevent wood to dry if something happend. I do not see the importance of sealing at this place. I used 90% screws building mine, only 90mm nails there and there, squares (95mmx95mm) every 2 vertical post, on top and bottom to prevent vertical tearing in case of high winds. I got a cold roof, from the inside : 20mm wood, vapor barrier, 200mm wood wool, rain barrier, 40mm air, metal sheets. I can see no condensation even with hard transitions, it's kind strange, maybe I do not have enough air circulation.
8:26 Привет Дитер. Моё имя Николай . Ютуб знает что мне интересно "Cold Climate Building Techniques and Concepts ColdClimateHousing 13 видео" Теперь вопрос : Вы используете систему сс( центр центр) с шагом 600мм. Почему не сестить все проемы под ширину теплоизоляции ( на Аляске ее перевели как " летучая мышь из фиброволокна) и сделать одну Узкую часть. Уложить все без подрезки/ подгонки ? Это первое видео которое я смотрю на Вашем канале и первое видео от Норвежского мастера. Очень позновательно.
Hei, kunne man alternativt ha teipet asfaltplatene i bjelkelaget fra innsiden med vindtett teip, istendenfor å legge til de listene sånn som du gjorde?
What kind of the outside film, you are using? Is it some kind of membrane? Is it really necessary when you already using fiberboard (looks like waxed one) as outside sheeting?
Very nice work. @8:59 and other places, you put a board in front of the nail gun. Why is that? I'm a DIYer so I am not familiar with all techniques of nailing. Looking forward to part two.
Hi, congratulations for the video and above all for the very beautiful and simple narration. Can you satisfy my curiosity??? could you tell me the sections of wood you used???' Thank you so much. Good work