Building a New Oxygen Panel 

So I used to build actual military simulation equipment. Our multi-position switches were cast urethane resin, with just a simple ball detent engaging a ramp cast into the rotating body. It was a simple stainless steel ball with a tiny coil spring. If I were worried about wear in the plastic, I would bend up a strip of brass or stainless steel shim stock and epoxy it to the ramp surface where the ball rides. Even a small notch that a ball detent could catch would give a nice feeling of positive engagement.

Quick note for the Pressure Lever - I am in USN flight school in the T-6A. The lever is spring loaded out of the TEST MASK position. Switching to TEST MAX and EMERGENCY have the same effect in the aircraft, but EMERGENCY keeps the supply at high pressure with TEST MASK only being momentary to verify a good seal during post start checks. You could probably adjust the two-position version to account for this with a spring that only engages in the TEST MASK position. Great content and looks awesome!

That’s brilliant! Didn’t fully understand the the position solution though. As a shearing way of doing the wear and tear painting, you could paint the first layer metal color, then spray with hair spray, then with black. Once you done your engraving you can then use a wet cotton swab (or a wet tooth pick) to go over the area you want to wear out. The hair spray will ensure the black paint can be reactivated with water. It gives a very good wear effect. Once you’re satisfied you can stray over with clear, which locks in the layers underneath.

One more bit for accuracy... When the panel is switched off, the other levers are forced back to Normal Normal. The Mask Test is spring loaded to return to Normal if not held. Emergency and Mask Test will cause flow to be constant, and consequently Flow indicator will show white. Normal will only flow when a breath is taken (i.e. intermittently). Fantastic looking panel!

Wow. This entire project is amazing. I’m a retired military aviator and your sim is on par with anything less than a full motion sim. Very cool. I may need to start a project of my own.

For the 3-selector switch, use 3 magnets and 2 reed switches (one on top and one on bottom). If the top reed switch is activated, you know the switch is up; if both reed switches are active, you know it's in the middle, and if only the bottom reed switch is active you know it's down. You should be able to do this without significant redesign of your existing file.

It's funny that RU-vid shared your channel with me; I'm a printer and maker, but I happen to have a deep love for the Warthog (outside RU-vid's algorithm's knowledge.) I expect I will be thrilled beyond belief as I explore your earlier content.

Your fabrication and design skills are nuts. (says the guy who is currently sanding 12 pieces of 3d printed storm trooper helmet).

A real hero makes his prints available to everyone! Good on yah! You are a level 10 craftsman

Thanks for being an example to show my wife when I want some new small piece of kit - 'Look babe, I could be doing this instead!' :D

Whats more fun? - Building the cockpit or flying in it?

I'm absolutely no sim gamer and wasn't aware this would get so professional but I'm blown away by the work you've done here. This is extremely fascinating and I'm deeply impressed.

I’ve never seen that method of using vinyl for covering electronics, I might have to consider doing that myself in the future. It might be useful for robotics or RC vehicles where space can be an issue but you still need to make sure nothing can short out.

Hate to be that guy... but I wouldnt be able to sleep at night if I didn't say something (haha). The flow indicator isn't a light. It was a selsyn indicator and was white only when oxygen was flowing through the system. So with the switch in Emergency, held in Test or when taking a breath in Normal. Amazing project!

Perfection mate, well done.

A better alternative to reed switches are hall effect sensors, you can get some with an analogue output or with a digital output, you can get them very cheap as well (likely cheaper than those reed switches) and are easier to work with because they aren’t attracted to magnets and they just have a plastic housing rather than glass and they would probably take up less space. They just have a plastic housing with three leads coming out of it. Using digital ones would be good for switches and analogue ones are good for analogue controls or you can use analogue ones for switches but have a programmable threshold for the switch, although you would need to be able to read the analogue voltage. Plus there is nothing mechanical in the sensor that can wear out or break and they are much less fragile and you don’t need to worry about direction because it has a flat top and bottom, just get it the right way round and it will work fine.

Nice work and great attention to the details. As already mentioned the test lever has to be held at test to operate and is spring loaded to go back to the normal position. The flow indicator isn't a light, its a mechanical indicator that flicks from black to white in operation (inhale and exhale) - it is illuminated using the same internal green EL as the pressure gauge.

Incredible. I love the magnetic switch solution-if you find the reed switches too fragile, you could use a Hall effect sensor. Really nicely done weathering effect as well. I'm surprised at how well the acrylic diffuses those LEDs, on camera at least.

Oh, a little trick: if you use hot melt glue, it comes off immediately with a drop of isopropyl alcohol. But at the same time isopropyl alcohol shatters polycarbonate, so value with care which part you need to recover.

I know nothing, but a few spring detents and pins might help you get the clicky action you want with those switches to keep them in place

I find that Tamiya buff makes a good weathering generically scuffed whilst no specific material nice reproduction❤

Outstanding work sharing the building and design of all, Big Thanks :)

Fantastic as always

In my experience, you should have a thin layer of plastic between the magnets if possible to reduce the wear and tear of the magnets.

Just wanted to say love the project and the streams you do in it. Really great work.

Another design you could have done for a solid detente is adding a spring and a small ball For the two position switch.

Great panel update. Thanks for sharing the build process.

Amazing work as always

Very cool, thanks for sharing.

As always, great job. You do amazing work.

Wow. Those seem REALLY satisfying to flip. I may need to make some of these..

Really like the idea with the reed switches but maybe something like a small leaf spring would be better to keep the switches in position

I've only watched to 8:14 so far but it occurs to me that if the base magnet is replaced with a metal disc, the switch will still function the same, without conflicting magnetic fields. Just a thought. This is brilliant stuff by the way...👌

Love it well done tks for sharing

wow just wow i am impressed with your work and the jet

always nice to see quality work done well

Really fascinating, so many great building tips

Fantastic again. You keep amazing me with all those fine details and improving your simulator!

Fantastic work. Couldn't stop watching.

Love the craftsmanship! You could even use the magnets as connectors. Check out the Klicky probe for 3d printers.

You could use hall sensors for it there are digital and analog hall sensors that can fit those functions. I believe there are three basic types of hall sensors and they are much less fragile and much more configurable.

This Old Tony just released a video on over center mechanisms that I think you could definitely apply to some of your projects. Even for the three position switch, you could use an over center mechanism with a detent or magnet for the middle position. Awesome stuff!

loved watching this video. Keep making these!

Imagine being someone who worked on designing this part of the plane and watching this. Would be really fun to see all the creative approaches.

First time seeing the channel, but this is amazing! Great work.

Love the lever switch idea, I think I can use that for one of my projects. I learn something every time you make a new panel.

This is just unreal. What a build! I'd love this rig but even building it yourself must have been prohibitively expensive! So cool though, so cool.

Outstanding video. I have always wanted to do a simpit and make my own panels and this video helps a lot.

This video couldn't have been better timed. So many of your processes have been revealed that were obscured in previous videos! As always, thank you!

For the three position, idve put a magnet up top too make your top and bottom positions have feedback i think.

Maybe try embedding some nuts in the emergency switch for the new single-magnet to catch when not in the center position. My only thought it that they may become magnetized over time and cause the reed-switch issue to return. A ball bearing with a spring behind it and some detents perhaps? Edit - just saw the message below about the test spring return, too.

26:40 - maybe you could put a Magnet just below the white part in the red lever and magnets sandwiched in the Panel just above and below the cutouts. Or use photodiodes as sensors...

Well done

Great design!

I'm not sure how i got here but I clicked on the vid cause I like both Halo Warthogs and the A10, figured i couldn't go wrong. I'm jealous cause i could never afford something this cool, but I also learned a few crafting tips! The masking tape to frame your laser cut before committing to it was genius, and the vinyl backing for the wiring was a great idea, too! Keep living the dream!!

Good job

Gotta remember that vinyl-and-heatgun trick, that is bound to come in handy some day.

Awesome video as always. Using the magnets to "latch" the switch in various positions is a great idea. I was wondering if instead of using magnetic reed switches (which as you showed, had interference with the latching magnets) it might be possible to cut out a slit in the round part of the switch, and use optical sensors to see where the window is (sort of like a rotary optical encoder). Keep up the awesome stuff!

Can you make a tutorial on a LED circuit... Trying to make a Backlighting for my Button box but I have no experience!

you could just add a spring with a ball baring to the red lever to have the nice "click" feel. Nice video and nice thing with the LEDs and the black vinyl very smart way of using hotair to cover them.

High class.

Amaaaaaazing !!!

bro, your skills are amazing. Great video, I wish I could do what you do.

Heeeee's back!!

I loved the idea of using reed switches. I am going to rebuild my flap lever assembly using that idea!

Make a detent switch with springs and mini balls from a skateboard bearing mate. Will give you the detent that you want from the left hand switch. PM me if you need a bit of a guide. 😊

Thank you for your videos, guides and documentation! Your work has made my cockpit build possible. In case you see this comment, could you please answer my current biggest concern: My calculations say that your LED setup goes dangerously close to the LEDs maximum current. Have any LEDs ever given up on you over the years?

No clue about real life feel, but for the 3 position switches where you had to leave out the magnets for up and down alignment .. maybe add a tiny little nub/tab to the lever and a small notch in the switch housing to give some sort of positive "locking" in position .. also tactile feedback for reaching the desire position, just like the magnets would give.

you absolute legend, that is amazing. insta-subscribe! love ya work

The intro alone is worthy of a Thumbs Up. 👍

Maybe add an extension with additional magnets to the side of the 3 point switch to give it the satisfaction it deserves?

Too cool for school

Wow, pretty neat. Question: do you need a big laser to do the paint etch on the top panel ?

I just downloaded the "lever test" as well as the two lever files and plan to use them in my own project in the near future. Thanks a ton for making these files public! Quick question: What are the dimensions of the magnets you used? I've found 5 and 6mm diameter as well as 2 and 3mm thickness, so four total options (and then there's bigger diameters too but Those four are the ones I've most seen used in 3d print projects elsewhere)

Really interesting way to use the magnets with switches! Do you find there's much difference in quality between resin and FDM printed switches? I've only used FDM myself so no experience with resin printers.

I love that the light panels look like a drunken space invader 😂

Hi, nice video as always. I have a question, what are the references of the servomotors you're using for the needles?

it's pretty cool for sure but so much time must have gone into this, i just hope it's worth it.

Is it weird that I kinda want the old faceplate? I feel like it's as close to owning a part of an A-10 as I'll get!

Have you a link to the solvent cement. Please you are using thanks. Amazing video

How do you get that thing, and how are there enough people with them to have multiplayer (it just looks like a really expensive or hard to get thing) ( **Im a new follower** )

Your Amazing. Better the Thomas Edison.

have you considered making a real attitude indicator and HSI?

👌

Wait, how have you been flying around without oxygen all this time?!?

Is it possible to use laser projector in alternative ?

when will you switch to augmented reality like viper simmer?

F me that is sick

That things awesome too bad the games graphics are trash

Rad switch is shit

All your missing now is an HF8 seat pad for when you go fox-2🤌🏼