Building a Pool Table / Billiard Table top 

I found PDF. how can I pay you.

@@elijahbutler5897 It's %100 free. If you feel compelled you can leave a tip, but it's not necessary.

Super cool

Interesting project. You are truly talented. The pdf did not go into detail with dimensions for the ball collection system and legs. Is it possible to share the dimensions even if not drawn? Looking for a durable pool table that can be converted to a patio dining table.

The ball collection is purely just a box underneath each pocket. You are free to use what ever system, or even buy a pocket net off the shelf. As for legs, technically there isn't any. The purpose of my table is to lay it onto of another table, in this case, you're looking at the legs of my dining table.

Thank you! Yes the pockets are tricky, I had the same challenge. I found some online templates that I adapted to work with this build so you're more than welcome to my Google Sketchup files that I used to make my templates. anthony@barberspaddockwoodworking.com

Wonderful story and thank you for sharing. Here's to your grandfather. :)

Thanks! I appreciate that. :)

Thank you!

Thank you very much!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks! And yes, it was almost the first thing I did when I started using the table, I added some rubber matting to the pockets to soften the ball drop.

Thank you friend!

Agree with James here, what an amazing start of a RU-vid channel. Well done Anthony.

That's amazing to hear!!

Is this a slate table though? I want to make mine into a dinner table but not sure if a frame with 2*4s will hold the weight

Thanks!

You're welcome.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking i cant get it to print to scale correctly or find a great radius point to make one

@mikestanger4205 My suggestion would be to not try and print it, but to replicate the template directly using the dimensions in the guide. You really only need a ruler and a compass to mark this out.

Obrigado!

You can do it!

@@barberspaddockwoodworking Thanks for encouraging me. Time will tell...

Interesting idea!

Thanks! Yes the point of this was not to build some sort of world class accurate table, but for portability and storage. Stays leaning up in the garage when not in use, and easy enough for two people to move when you want to play.

Excellent, best creation we appreciate your beautiful job, well done.

I can say with all confidence the bounce is consistent across all rails. As for the surface, for sure, slate is what you would use for a 'proper' pool table but for the goal of this project formply is a decent substitute (I would not recommend or use normal plywood for this). I will perhaps revisit this in a year or so time and report on how it's all holding up.

Thanks!

About 3 months, working mostly on weekends for this project tho. So I'd say about a week of solid work day wise. :)

Thank you I appreciate that!

Go for it! You could easily for example put another surface on the bottom and flip the table the other way, that could be something to explore.

Thank you so much! Form ply is a really great ply to work with, no voids that I've found, and the one I used in the bench build had 11 layers (yes 11!). As a pool table top, It's very smooth and very hard so it takes the abuse well. As for workshop projects, there are so many more that need to be done. The mobile workbench needs to be upgraded, the tools need to come off some of their mobile stands and onto more permanent fixtures and more. I hope to share those as I progress through a very long list!

Check the first pinned comment.

So from the back of the side pocket, to the edge of the rail? About 25mm. You're welcome to my Google Sketchup file if you want the complete file for the table. Just hit me up in an email.

Railings are screwed to the table with bolts. Yes drilling straight through the felt, so make sure you clamp down well and you won't have any issues.

%100 if you can, use a full sheet. I only used QTR panels because (at the time) there was a massive shortage of formply. If I was to do this over again, I would %100 use a single sheet. As for the 'diamonds' AKA bolts, there isn't anything magic about it, I picked distances between the pockets of about 1/3 and simply marked centre from the rail. Good luck in your build!

Thanks! And yes, I get lots of concerns on the table top that maybe it'll warp or worse not be smooth/hard after playing for sometime. If you've ever encountered form ply it's an insanely hard surface. I've done tests of smacking the crap out of it with a hammer and the result is no dents or marks what so ever. The surface is so hard, that when I was sanding the seams with 80 grit it barely made a mark and took hours to get through that surface layer. Would I recommend you use normal plywood (even high quality)? Hell no, but form ply? I think it's a decent substitute. As for warping, that's really my only concern, but I have to say so far so good. I will definitely revisit this and maybe post an update on how it's holding up at it's 1 year anniversary.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking awesome! I didn’t know that I thought it was regular plywood. Hopefully it won’t warp on you either then. Either way still a great build!

Yes you can certainly make the table any size you want. This one is light enough you could (with two people) mount it on a wall to store, but if you made a smaller one you could certainly achieve that and have a single person be able to lift it. This table is roughly 4' x 6.5' in size.

Thanks and yes, slate is what you would use on a 'proper' table, but would come at a significant cost (and be a different video). As for warping It's been nearly a year, and it's not changed shape at all and gets regular use. I guess we'll see in another few years, but let's be honest, this isn't designed to last forever. But who knows, maybe it will. One day I'm sure I'll build another 'proper' one.

You used snooker rubber L77 did you use. 2 1/8 balls pool table typically use K66 rubber

Can't say I have, but it's an interesting idea. Perhaps version 2.0? :)

100% correct. And to go further (and I've mentioned this quite a few times in other comments), just use a single panel. The only reason I used 3 panels (well technically 4) is because of supply constraints. Having said that, I've not experienced any issues with joining them in this way and the table continues to be very flat, but I would completely agree on your solution. If I ever had to do it the 'same way' again....which again....don't....I'd follow something like you've suggested.

Now that's a novel idea and certainly not something I've ever seen before, you should give it a crack!

Sanding xonctrete slate would be moon and day works but great idea, have you done it yet? How it work?

Oh definitely not a pro table for sure, but it's still alot of fun to play on!

I had to make my own Lex, and agreed it's hard to get templates for this. If you're keen on getting my template from my Google Sketchup file you're welcome to email me.

Amazing project indeed. How may I have access to those templates? I would love to try and build one myself. Thanks

@@barberspaddockwoodworking thank you for your offer. Meanwhile I decided buying a pool table, instead of building one. I've got too many projects and I got respect in building such a monster. I bought a 8ft table. I should measure it and make plans out of it. So if you need any information, let me know. I'll look the measurements and ankles up.

I built one and it did take some searching to find cushion pocket angles and shelf depths, I ended up drawing out full size mock ups of pockets and profiles of the top rail, cushions and skirt boards... I'm a carpenter so that helped. It's nothing fancy but it plays well. I pretty proud of it. you could check it out if you're interested.. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TR-RhxH8wcs.html&ab_channel=Nick

Formply. Very common here in Australia, it's a special type of film faced plywood that is traditionally used in concrete forming. It's very smooth, very hard and a decent substitute for other heaver surfaces.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking thx a lot!

Sorry I don't know. It doesn't have branding, my father gave it to me many years ago and he's had it for decades before that. I have no idea where it comes from sorry.

He needed to use slate.

I have not had any issues with warping so far. Given the length and thickness of the rails and the box shape of the base, it's very 'anti' warping already. In time, maybe, but given the purpose of this table is for occasional entertainment then those are risks that are perfectly acceptable.

If the goal was to build a professional class table, then sure you'd use slate, but for a cheap no frills occasional muck around table? It's overkill and certainly wouldn't make it portable anymore defeating one of the main criteria of what I needed in a table. I've certainly conceded in many responses that this is not a 'pro level' attempt at a table for cheap.

Just boring, bog standard pine for the rails.

When something is so obvious it's oblivious to you at the time.....and I have a silver sharpie pen....

Yes, or any flat surface. If we play outside which we do sometimes, I'll just use a couple of large saw-horses. If it's inside the dinning table, or a cheap Ikea table I have in the garage works just fine. As for the pockets, no it doesn't interfere, the pockets are on the same plane as the frame.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking Thank you

Excellent questions Brian! Like many projects sometimes you have to compromise depending on the goals and that's certainly the case here. I was never going to use slate because of cost and MDF was going to be too heavy. Making a table to stand the test of time wasn't the goal here, just something to muck around on with friends/family on occasion, then stick it up against the wall in my garage when not in use. So weight, cost and convenience being the brief. Formply is actually very very flat and quite hard on the surface, but you are correct, it could move in time but we will have to see just how much that would be. The hard film they put on formply actually helps with movement (so I'm told) and I've not noticed any issues so far since I've built it, it remains perfectly flat but I'll be sure to keep checking it and report if I have issues. As for the multiple pieces for the top and why I did it that way, I regret forgetting to cover the reason for this in the video. Using multiple pieces was not something I wanted to do, it was unfortunately due to supply constraints at the time in Australia of sourcing wood in general (and still ongoing). It was going to take many many weeks for my local supplier to be able to get more sheets of form plywood in the size I needed, and these smaller quarter panels was all they were going to have for at least a few months. So in the end it was a compromise so I could have it for summer. Many people have emailed me asking for plans, and the one thing I always say to them is 'use a single sheet, make your life easier'.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking Thanks so much for the incredibly quick response! I knew there was a question I forgot to ask and it was what type of plywood you used. What is that top surface, melamine or some other laminate? Now I know it's Formply, something I've not heard of here in the US. I'll have to look it up and see if there's an equivalent sold here. I'm looking to build, maybe, a low cost table for my niece, who isn't a serious player, nor plans to be one. So unless I can find a low $ slate table, MDF or ??, is likely to be the surface. I'd also like to see if a low $ "wood" table plays as well as slate, all other things being roughly equal. Most serious players say No but won't say Why or How. Certainly a nonflat surface would be a reason but I think there's some snobbery involved as well. Building one myself would answer that question. Thanks again and have fun on your table.

'What's that stuff you use?' It's the biggest question I get and honestly I did not know it wasn't really a thing in the US until I kept getting questions regarding it (all from my US friends) so it certainly appears to be something not commonly available to those in the US. It's definitely not a melamine type product, it's effectively plywood with a resin surface that makes it very smooth, quite hard (I've smacked the crap out of mine with a hammer to see how much it takes to dent it and it's an insane amount) and it's resistant to things sticking to it (wood glue doesn't stick to it which makes it ideal for workbenches / tops etc). Traditionally it's used in concrete forming thus the name 'Formply', however it has many general purpose uses. You can get some really really good quality Form Ply. The stuff I used in this build has 11 layers (yes 11!). I think a similar product that is sold in the US is called MDO/HDO Plywood, tho I'm told it's not quite the same (there seems to be a difference between 'film layer' and 'resin layer') however from pictures it appears to be similar/same. If you can't get something similar, I probably think MDF is a better route? I don't think standard plywood would work, it would be too soft a surface and certainly no smooth enough. If you do find something that works, let us/me know!

@@barberspaddockwoodworking I wanted to add a bit more information I dug up on phenolic plywood, the generic name for FormPly and others. It seems to be a high grade plywood, thin plies, no voids, encapsulated in hard phenolic plastic (except around the edges). Used more in Europe than in the US, primarily for concrete forms. I couldn't find a hard specification for flatness, moreover there are various grades of phenolic plywood, higher grades used for industrial furniture and such. One (?low?) grade version sold in the US is TigerForm. A 3/4", 4'x8' sheet (you can do the metric conversion) goes for around 80 USD at Menards. Generally not found at Home Depot or Lowe's. A similar sheet of MDF at the latter stores is about 55 USD. Slate would be around $700, plus shipping. Flatness per WPA regulations is no more than 0.01" across the width of the table (any size) and, naturally, 2x that across the length. That's a bit wishy washy IMO, as I'm unsure how to interpret it. A coplanar reg for the slates is +/- 0.005". Compare those to a thickness spec on MDF of +/- 0.005" and you can see why, if properly supported and prior to any warping, MDF is often used. The spec I saw for TigerForm was 1 mm for thickness uniformity, about 0.04". But is that +/_ , on any single board or board to board, batch to batch ? And might higher grades, from other manufacturers, be better ? I doubt anyone knows. I suppose if you could measure flatness well enough, the rather thick phenolic surface could be sanded flat at the high spots, perhaps to better than real life MDF flatness. And then there's settling and warping over time and temperature and humidity. I think phenolic plywood might be more stable than MDF in those regards. Certainly both need a more supportive frame structure that does slate. So is there a clear winner ? Not that I can see. I'll have to look into higher grades of phenolic plywood here in the US. Thanks to BPW for bringing this to my attention. I'm not sure if YT always allows links so I'll stop here but try to put some useful links in a reply below.

Some detailed research!

I wouldn't generally recommend using standard plywood, but I've seen other people use it. The type of plywood used here is formply which has a hard resin surface which makes it quite smooth. I would say as long as you can keep it flat, have a good frame to stop warping, you probably could get away with it, I just don't know how it would stand up long term.

Send me an email and I can provide my Google Sketchup file. The black panel is called 'Formply' and is very common here in Aus, but seems to be an unknown material in other places, especially the US.

Thank you very much! I’m Italian And even here ti would seem not to be known!

Check the first comment, I have a link to the drawings I used to build the table.

It would fundamentally be a VERY different build. No way you'd just slap slate on top of this frame, not to mention you'd need to build some very solid legs/frame. There is very little you'd could take away from this build to 'make it a slate table' in my opinion. It would be a totally different design requirement (and cost).

Ha yes! I'm not sure I have the talent (or bravery) just yet to attempt wood turning, that's a whole skill on it's own. Perhaps one day!

Template is made from 16mm MDF and cut out using a jigsaw.

Thanks!

It's a fairly uncomplicated design so the build time you see is about 4 weeks of solid work to make this one. As for building them for others to be frank 1. I'm no professional, and 2. It's questionable if it's entirely cost effective. Maybe in the future who knows.

I built this in 3 days... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TR-RhxH8wcs.html&ab_channel=Nick

I get this concern alot, it's probably the number one question I'm asked and the answer is 'not really, it doesn't dent easy'. If this was standard plywood face, I'd fully agree and I specifically don't recommend it, but given this is formply which has a rock hard resin surface (hell it's used for concrete forming) it's actually very resilient to denting. It's the reason it's so often used in workbench / workshop furniture here in Australia. If you dig, there is a video of me beating some formply with a hammer and not leaving any distinguishable marks. Is it harder than slate? Of course not, but certainly much harder than plywood and for goals/criteria I had for this project it is an acceptable replacement. Your idea of using perspex however is very intriguing. I've never seen that before, but I think it could certainly work, the only downside I see is it would be (at least it would be here) a very expensive option. To get a sheet that size here would probably be a few hundred dollars and would negate one of the criteria of this project which was 'cheap'.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking thanks for explaining. You clearly know what you are doing 👍

@@benrichards399 Ha! I'm thrilled it appears that way!

Let's be honest, professional tables are built with slate tops for a reason. If you're trying to build a professional table that behaves like slate, then unfortunately I don't know or can think of an alternative surface. If you're willing to make some concessions/compromises and accept the limitations of what other materials have, then building a table out of formply (note I say formply, not plywood), or even MDF are viable options, but these are not going to be identical to slate. I've had people who play more regularly then me say the surface I've made feel good, so take that as you may, however these are my 2 cents: If you're wanting to replicate the kind of high end tables of a pool hall, then sorry I doubt this project while fun to make, is going to meet that bar. If you're after a weekend hobby table that you use with the friends or family as an entertainment piece, then that's what I've built and I think it works great for that. I hope that helps at least a little.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking YOO, that was fast!!!! And it actually helps a Lot, thank You man, i'll make sure to follow your instructions, thanks again

This is a very fair question, so let me expand. At the time of building it was during the covid pandemic, and material costs and supply shortages meant that the price of timber like the formply and even just the standard pine went up in price almost %100. It's reflective of the costs associated at that time in history, so no fast-forward to today, it can be done much cheaper. If I built this again today, I estimate it would cost probably half of what I originally paid, maybe a tad more.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking thank you for explaining, this makes sense now.

If you'd like the google sketch-up file which will include all this, hit me up on my email: anthony@barberspaddockwoodworking.com

Check the pinned comment.

Assuming you mean the measurements of the table? It's 2050mm x 1200mm.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking sorry I meant the size of the holes (the width)

​@@angelocolonna7581 Just under 4" wide, or about 10cm. The google sketch-up file I made will have the exact dimensions. You're welcome to it if you want, just email me the request.

anthony@barberspaddockwoodworking.com

Please check the description and the pinned comment for links to the PDF that contains dimensions.

I'm attempting to put together a PDF of dimensions, specially on the pocket since that's what most people are after. In the meantime if you want you can have my Google Sketchup file I used, just email me a request and I'll send it to you.

Check the pinned comment and the description. I have a link that will provide a PDF that has all the dimensions including a pocket template.

Many thanks!!!

Check the pinned comment. I link you to a PDF file I created with all that information.

Fair, and it's never a bad thing for anyone to be reminded to be vigilant about safety.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking i liked the pool table bro nice job

To do what? The underneath frame? Yes. The rails? No those are bolts with a philips head profile.

Sure, just send me an email and I'll send you my Sketchup file.

Hi, can I get your email? Thx

Because the table is portable, it needs to be as rigid as possible to stop twisting when moving. If you were to mount this permanently to legs/frame you probably don't need to make it as complicated as I have. Additionally because of the lack of 4x8 formply sheets, I was forced to use QTR panels which means re-enforcing the points where two boards meet. While this also provides additional frame strength however it's completely unnecessary if you use a single sheet of formply (which I recommend). If I was ever to do this again, for sure there are things I would do differently in a re-design based on what I learnt.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking , oh, thanks for the answer. I think I'm gonna try to build something like this with my friends, but since we dont have much experience of working with wood it might end up being janky lol

@@saintsdgessus8823 Well only one way to find out!

This isn't just 'plywood' it's a specific type of plywood called 'Formply'. It's made up of construction grade plywood with a very hard resin coated surface. This surface is incredibly hard, smooth and flat and is commonly used here in Australia to create forms for concrete, thus the name 'Formply'. I have said this in other comments and in the PDF I created that I do not recommend straight up plywood, it is not as hard or as durable as this stuff. Formply is a trade-off between expensive stone, MDF that is too heavy or standard plywood which isn't durable enough. Secondly, the purpose of this table is to have some portability, it does not stay put. When it's not in use, I store it away in the garage. It's both sturdy and light enough to do this, and so far has not provided any problems. Two people can carry the entire top quite easily. Lastly cost. I've said this before, this isn't a project or a way to build a 'championship' table or 'heirloom piece'. If that's what you want to build, this isn't for you. What this is for me is just something to have a bit of fun with family and friends occasionally, and so far, it's been great. It is still dead flat, dead smooth and plays just fine. Hope that provides some clarity!

I used pool table rubber that I sourced from a pool table supplier on eBay. The link to what I used is in the description. The felt was also sourced from the same supplier.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking oh i see. This rubber for snooker table and maybe its ok for pool if you use 52mm balls or close

This video is for those who has not that choice

@@tchikoumahmoud4665you mean to tell me this table cost less than $500?

The cost of this project (at the time) was heavily impacted by local and international events. During and around the time I build this Australia had experienced some truly devastating bush fires that wiped out a significant amounts of local timber supply. Coupled with increased demand for rebuilding, as well as new homes this sent the price of timber and plywood through the roof as we've all seen around the world. If you were to ask me today what it would cost to build this, I would say it's still high compared to say 3 or 4 years ago, but probably not as high as when I originally built this. Could I have bought a table? Well sure but here, where I live that's not a cheap option, and additionally for what I wanted which was a portable or movable table, well that simply didn't exist. This project isn't going to be for everyone. Whether it's cost prohibitive, tool prohibitive or other is up to you to decide. The video simply demonstrated what it took for me, a relatively novice woodworker, to build a functional pool table that I can move around for as cheap as I could at the time of filming.

A 9ft size pool table is no where near $500. If you know where I can find one that price please let me know because that’s a bargain!!

Tell me where to buy 9ft table for $500 Even $800 is fine

I think the point you raise is an important one. %100 I completely agree, 'budget' is definitely subjective here. It's part of the reason why I don't make a conclusion regarding this point in the video, but simply outlay what it cost me to build with the cheapest materials I could get my hands on, based on where I live. People can then make their own judgement calls on this. Some have argued it's not fair to not include the cost of tools, or that I have a workshop, or that I could have used a few different materials to reduce costs etc. Those are all also valid points to look at it and consider as well.

I'm touched you watched all 48 minutes.

Yup, the irony is not lost on me on that one. But it has to be said, this is why I built a workshop!

All I had as a portable table saw, a circular saw, drill and hand tools... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TR-RhxH8wcs.html&ab_channel=Nick

Very very nice!

@@barberspaddockwoodworking Thank you sir..!

Nowhere close to$5k, and I am sure these tools will be used for hundreds of projects around the house. By your thinking, why buy a fridge and stove to make one meal?

I'm going to assume your premise is that it can't be a budget build because I own/used tools, and they cost $$? Respectfully, tools for me are an investment, they can be (and have been) used over and over again through many projects and have paid for themselves multiple times over. When I cook a meal in my oven, I don't think about how much the oven costs for this one meal, I think about the thousands of meals I've made and the money I saved instead of simply going out to eat each night. For me this is the same thing. I fully appreciate not everyone is blessed to build workshops or have an assortment of tools (tho mine are far from fancy), but the point of this is to show what I made using what I have.