The process of making Lola (L0-LA59) from Obi-Wan Kenobi Model by Droid Division: etsy.me/3zdBjZ3 Instagram: / thearmorersforge - My Links - Website: www.studioofmm.com Twitter: / @studioofmm Instagram: / studioofmm
you are so amazing to be able to make this… It turned out really well. I'm jealous but then again proud of you for knowing how to do it and having the tools… And the skill. Yes Lola is amazing I wish I had it
What a beautiful job you made of my files, thank you. There are some some internal details included now, you bought quite early but I love what you used too :)
Thank YOU for all of your incredible designs and sharing it with the rest of us so that we can have beautiful droids in our lives. I saw those, they look great! I have a feeling I might be making a couple more of these in custom colours to have around so I’m very much looking forward to using the new parts added.
Wow you did a great job! I hadn’t noticed the gold parts until you had mentioned it. This paint job is so clean. I printed mine today, but had a bit of a failure on the top piece and bottom piece, so now deciding if I want to use more resin (or if I even have enough) to reprint!
A tip for making masking lines straighter would be to paint over the seam between the tape and resin (or plastic) with the original colour, then use the second colour.
It depends a lot of the type of resin you use. I mostly use Elegoo’s ABS like resin and yes, it does have a scent but it’s not too overwhelming. There’s also lots of ways you can minimize the smell like small charcoal air purifiers that you can stick in the printer shroud so that the smell is completely contained, etc. It’s definitely a very cool technology and it helps me out a lot with projects.
Thank you! Electronics really aren’t my strong suit but I’d definitely be willing to try making one that had servos in it if someone came up with at least a rough guide as to how to properly do it (I believe someone is actually working on this in the Droid Division FB group)
Thank you! Right now, unfortunately not. I thought I’d filmed a lot more than I did about it but I obviously got caught up with figuring everything out and filming took a bit of a back seat. I am highly considering making a couple more custom ones and I was going to make sure that that video would include any of the parts that I accidentally skimmed over in this, like the LED setup, antenna, etc. It really isn’t that complex of a setup; I bought some double coin battery holder packs that I then just soldered onto a couple of 5mm LED lights in a circuit.
@@MMsPropShop Sorry, I have 3 questions. What brand of Filament do you recommend? What brand of paint do you use with your air brush and is it water based? When do you know to use Resin instead of Filament?
It really depends on what you can get. I know that I’m somewhat limited in terms of options here in Canada so I’d recommend looking at reviews for different types that are available to you and go from there. Mostly I’m mixing up various acrylic craft paint with airbrush medium so yes, it’s water based. Typically I decide to use resin over filament when something has EXTREME detail that a FDM printer will never be able to print or when I don’t want to have to deal with all of the sanding and post processing on a piece lol. But really for me resin is all about clean details so any piece that has a lot of intricate detail I’d try to resin print.
Yes! The battery pack is super easily accessible in the back and I also didn’t actually glue it down so if I needed to take it out to replace them that’s an option as well.
I paint miniatures and that metallic medium (which I'm assuming you used) is a revelation you can apply shadows and highlights with metallic paint which you could never do before
hello! I've seen your video and you've impressed me a lot... I've tried to do it in a sculptural way because I don't have a 3D printer and I would like to know clearly it's just a question, if you can sell it to me haha I love it !!!.. But obviously it's just a question if you can or not nice day bye :3
Thank you! For primer it’s the Badger Air-Brush Stynylrez in the various colours. Paint is a mix of a bunch of different types; tamiya for the silver metallics, acrylic ink for anything else, and then it’s mostly various craft paint diluted with airbrush medium.
Yes, I used a bit of green stuff to fill in the drainage holes. It hardens up pretty well and can be sanded for a smooth finish. I also tend to add a bit more UV resin over it as well to assist with the smoothing.
Thank you! The silver/gunmetal colours were Tamiya, the gold was Dr PH Martens acrylic ink and the metallic colours that I mixed into the main body paint were craftsmart matte metallic paints.
Resin printing looks good but i hate all the cleaning and safety like gloves and masks that has to be used, But cant a Filament 3d printer print the same results?
I get it. It seems like a lot of added work but I always think of it as ‘I can either spend time cleaning pieces up or 5x that time and effort to get the pieces looking maybe as smooth’. It really depends on what you’re printing. There are some models with such fine detail that the only way you going to be able to get that on your print is with a resin printer. Even with this particular project some of the detail might have been lost due to all of the post processing necessary to make the pieces as smooth as they’d ideally should be.
They both work so differently from each other that I’d say either one would be a valid option depending on what you’re interested in printing. I had FDM printers for years before I got my first resin printer and I don’t think the added experience with FDM gave me any advantage with learning how resin printing worked.
Bambu is pretty amazing. I bought the P1S just for the droid builder files. Note that I have a Photon M3 resin but Resin isn't as precise for fitting models together and FDM has PETG and PLA+ options for longer lasting harder plastic.
This one was at 100% scale. I believe it was oriented on a slight angle across the build plate (corner to corner). I printed a couple of others at around 80% just because it seemed like a more accurate scale which were even easier to fit on the printer.