I am sooooo happy that you made this project fully brushless and sensored! Now i would love to see you revisit the go-kart using this alternator, i wonder how will be the difference in a 4 wheel vehicle
Well done! This is a great use for a junkyard alternator. From an engineering standpoint, I always try to go simpler, so I love your idea of converting to Brushless DC. Good a/v, very good narration and explanation. Great channel!
I rebuilt alternators, starters & generator's for 16 years . If I knew you was going to do this I could have saved you a hole lot of time by getting a "delco 25si alternator" a brushless alternator for semi's & heavy equipment . The down side is the size mainly the length about 2x & larger diameter , the plus they use less power to excite the rotor should run more efficiently ?. I would love to see how well a 25si performs .
Very cool that you know so much about the electric tech! That said you didn't get much range out of the rig! My $1500 RadRover ebike gets at least 20 to 30 miles from the 48 volt setup... with some pedaling assistance of course.
Great vid! I'm sure that alternator can generate some serious electricity with such a powerful permanent magnet now. I'd be curious to see its output measured as a generator!
So glad to see you are continuing this project. I was very looking forward to it from the teaser you provided at the end of the last one. Nothing says sadness like having a half full battery and your field batteries die. I think if I where the kind of Maker you are, I'd have made a way to recharge the field batteries off the main pack when in a pinch. But that's just me desk chair coaching. I want to make one or a pair of these for a cart project I have been scheming on for ages. Thanks for proving that these Alternator conversions can be torque monsters.
the idea is sound and it will work.... there are several things in this video that they have not even addressed... like the AC voltage alone will do nothing, hence the power brick that converts the 120 to 24 volts... but in the end, this works flawlessly... the generators are easy to find and the motors as well... just have to do some searching.... I am putting a video together as well as a live public display of it working by the middle of July... just wanting to make sure the parts will be available for everyone.... no I am not affiliated with this channel...lol.... too many hidden parts in this video....
АПАЗДАВАЕШЬ ты,брателло, такие технологии по переделке генераторов электромагнитного возбуждения на возбуждения постоянными магнитами ЛЕТ 15 НАЗАД ИЗВЕСТНЫ БЫЛИ.......В СОВЕТСКИЕ времена в СССР ХВАТАЛО ТАКИХ умельцев;-тогда аккумуляторов не хватало на всех,да и дороги они были и не долговечные; вот люди включали мозги и создавали такие электро-шедевры, что чертежи таких девайсов ложились на столы Советских Конструкторов,и промышленность выпускала уже торговые марки электро товаров.....
Awesome content, as usual man! I did this same mod about a year ago and honestly, I couldn't find any info on it and was blown away more ppl hadn't considered doing the same! I think that a lot of ppl don't quite realize how the rotor of an alternator actually works... it is kinda intimidating seeing those big triangular teeth inside, but still. I was impressed w how it worked so it's awesome you're showing us how here! Cheers mate! - Jesse
Maybe you could build a backpack that holds another big set of batteries? That way you could look like there's no batteries lol just a fun thought. Thanks for you videos! I love watching other inventors, if that's what we are called lol
the bike prolly has those crappy un sealed bearing in the hub. he should def ungrade the wheel hubs with sealed bearings. could also take the freewheel off on the rear wheel to free up more friction
Your measured top speed shows that this is more powerful than the average 250w or 750w eBike. You mention 99amp and 47v so that's a peak of about 6bhp !!! Anyone copying the design could scale back the voltage in exchange for more ah (say 24v and 36ah) and would get something closer to typical eBike performance with a top speed near 45kph and much better range. But where's the fun in that !
back of the napkin math shows 45ishV at 100 amps is 6ish HP. There are larger diameter style alternators out there that will provide higher torque output at the same rpm, therefor mo power!
The Claw Pole design of automotive alternators reduces the cogging torque because the transition between North and South poles the windings experience is gradual. Excessive Cogging is a real problem in motor designs.
Excellent built and modifications, I couldn't see where is the polarity N or S of the permanent magnet, when installed on the shaft. I would like to know, thank you!
That magnet is one lump eddys will gather as heat overtime in there now rather than the segmented copper of old, good effort though nice and simple mod.
You should have tried a range test with the motor and it sold setup before you turned it to a permanent magnet motor to compare which one would be more efficient
Funtastic ebike - been following your builds and I'm so impressed. Could you try the range test on a slightly warmer day and keep your speed under 35kmh as wind resistance at speeds above that result in a massive increase in power needs to maintain those speeds. So impressive going up those hills though. Well done and thanks for your video's.
I have a question. At 03:50 you start pushing one of the red parts into the axle of the rotor using the puller. I don't understand how are you using the puller to push in the manner that you do. Can you explain? It seems to me it shouldnt push at all from the geometry you are using. Thank you!
@Barstools And Powertools Ahhhh. So the top poll piece is highly atracted to the magnet and he is using the extractor for stability lowering it step by step thru the extractor screw. It makes sense now. Thank you!
@@foxxyytofficial i’m still working on rebuilding the motor but I did build a slower version on my channel if u want to see it. The one on my channel has about 8 hp and the one i’m building now should peak at 70 for 10 seconds
Really great project!! so you're getting about 5Kw of peak power output out of the alternator, that's pretty good! Dual alternator motor go-kart next maybe? Would be awesome to see that! You could also run both motors on the same controller, with only one motor having haul effect sensors, if both motors are synchronized.
@@foxxyytofficial if you were to "weld" both motor axles together, while the magnet of both motors is positioned in the same position relative to the coils, both motors will need the same steps through their coils to move, so if you power them both with 1 controller, it will work, as long as the controller can handle the increased Amps
Idea for Old Rusty v5: add a 2nd battery and another alternator that can charge the battery while in use. That way, when 1 battery dies you can simply swap the batteries to charge it while you use the other to ride into the sunset!. That would be awesome!
Fantastic!!! I am, childlike, wondering. If you have a standard e-bike, is there a way to have the battery charged by the pedaling motion? Instead of charging the battery from the grid.
Hi. Congratulations man! Good work! Please share the link to buy the permanent magnetics. In Brazil we dont have this type. Please tell me if you have no problem with loss of magnetization due to high temperature? Thanks.
I was going for 100 Ah lithium polymer @25 volts. Maybe I went overboard with my calculations. Watched all your vids. I'll be reengineering a solid scooter. Judging by your results I could put a sidecar assembly on it
@@foxxyytofficial Love to but I can't. My controller is only rate at 24 volts 100 amp. Thought I would gear it up to use the amps where the revs would be lacking
@@jimboniface7202 but without at least 36V your power/consumption rate won't be that good and you will be at risk of overheating If you don't cool the alternator to avoid thst
It is shocking to me how complicated alternators are and yet I can buy one for $20 out of a junkyard. Makes me wonder how ready DelcoRemy and other OEM suppliers REALLY are for an EV future when they already make similar parts in absurd scales. That windmill site makes me VERY interested.
Economy of scale and I've had the same thoughts about starters. They last well in a hard environment, are very available, and convert well. Auto yards can be a great source for project parts, especially of you have a small welder and drill press.
GOOD VIDEO ON ALTENATOR AS MOTER ON BIKE WANTED TO OFFER SOME IN PUT YOU BIKE YOU CONVERTED THE ALTENATOR TO permanent magnet motor if you could have got your hands Tachi amateur or an old dimmer switch from an old vehicle before 1990 you could have hooked it up to the field winding and control the alternator from turning your controlling the flow of voltage there's a guy on RU-vid that uses drill batteries the power his projects and his Razor scooter and and his electric go gart made ten Amp hour battery that give more and longer ride on yours
Surely their had to be an easier way to convert an alternator to an electric motor? Need to find a way to do it using a car battery also. Good video and information though.
For somebody in the city, this could be pretty nice. For me 17km or whatever it had come to, isn't all that much for being in a rurale part. But yeah city folk 17 could take them around possibly for a couple or few days if they're just going to one spot and back. Less road congestion too.
Put on a bigger battery for greater range. I think he used a 14AH/48V battery to get 17 km. so for example, if you wanted 100km, you would use a 85AH battery @ 48V.
@@MiniLuv-1984 18Ah @ 48V He could get a 72V controller and a bigger battery, would be even better, since with the higher voltage he could get a better gearing and also get more efficiency
@@foxxyytofficial Exactly and with the higher volts he would use less current for the same power. Anything like that will work. I suggested more capacity at 48V because I think this would require fewer changes.
Have you check the Super Soco motorcycle (the cheaper one) I think that bike makes around 100 km range but it costs like 5k usd or more, how much did you spend on your set up? To calculate how much you will you need in batteries to go near that range of 100 km range?
Awesome. I love this kind of stuff just you know there's better technology out there but just say forget that I'm building it myself. We all know there are gas powered cars that go 200mph but you have the basics to create a self powered vehicle. You modified an alternator to a motor now you need a small dedicated alternator to charge which heck maybe even a small solar panel or alternator off an old vespa. I just found your channel today but don't stop ever.
Is there anyway to be able to calculate how much power you'll be able to get from an alternator before going through all this work and effort? I've got a monster firetruck alternator that can put out around 400 amps at 12v. Just wondering what kind of power I'd get.
Most people that tried get around 70% efficiency and 70% of the nominal power For a 400A 12V alternator i would surely use at least 72V and install hall sensors to keep everything under control, also choosing a BLDC controller from a reputable brand
Please forgive my ignorance on this. But a Alternator just charges a battery does it not ? . HOW does it turn into a motor on a bike , with a battery on it as well, giving it the torgue to to drive the bicycle at speed. Also how do you control the speed of the alternator as a motor.?
Why would you go through all the troubles completely rebuild that motor when all you had to do was put a couple of volts to the brushes ,and apply your power to your electromagnet that's already there?
AWESOME JOB AUSTIN !!! Would be nice if you can find a smaller alternator (with the same eff) AND find a way to charge the battery during the ride.... Great Job !!!
Well, you lost the best part of controlling the field current. you could go faster, when at max speed you should start decreasing the field current (simple pwm or a brushed ESC), that change the Kv and the stator would have less back EMF and push the frequency a lot more.
I was wondering if you tried any higher voltages on the rotor before you changed it out. You probably could have hit it with the 48v without trashing it because it would have only been 1/4 of the current. It may have made more flux than a PM. Also you didn't try less than 12v on the rotor did you? Could be it might have been possible to back the rotor voltage down once up to speed right? See I'm thinking about using this application to drive a 134A Freon compressor and I've already seen at least one video where some guy wires his to go from delta to wye (or the other way around, I always forget) for start up. Perhaps a higher "start-up" voltage for the rotor could negate the need for that. I don't know; but it's something I plan to experiment with if there's nobody else that doesn't already know. Knocked me out when I saw you trying the same Ebay unit on the bench in the last video I was looking at. I'm planning to try the 72vdc version however simply because it reduces overall current. Thanks again for sharing.
@@foxxyytofficial I should have known better. Of course it did. I have a GM style Power-Master alternator running off a 1.5K watt 72v dc bldc drive now off Ebay w/o halls; but the rotor pulls a full 6 amps @ 12v. Where did you get that magnet man. LOL I don't see any link. and oh yeah,... it drove a compressor directly until it took out a 15 amp fuse in the drive supply line. LOLru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WyueUH-Fj00.html
Do you have any recommendations for a good 48 volt 12 amp lead acid battery pack i have searched but I don't see any pre wired ones for 48 volts.P.S I don't know how to solder
Stay away from SLA. Heavy, long charge time and a tendency to break with that kind of vibration. Use a pack 4x 12v 12Ah, physically they are 10x10x15cm. I think they are about 15 lbs a piece if I recall correctly. You have to find a really low place on the bike to install them, else they'll make the bike really wonky top heavy. Putting them on the rear rack if you have one is a really bad idea. You're better off finding a battery builder who'll do you the proper s/p setup (optimum 54V for "48v") with BMS. Otherwise, a single 12v battery failure out of 4 can put you on the side of the road real fast. HINT: a good battery builder will test each and every cell as he builds it so that all cells match each other.
Hello good night friend, I liked your experiment very good, it's a pity that here in my country we are very late and everything here is very expensive but I will try to gradually get the necessary parts to assemble an electric bike like yours congratulations
@@prior8t2000 350 dollars is nothing in the usa or canada, the cheapest rent is around 700 dlls a month and that is very rare because the actual cheapest rent on most major cities is around 1000 dlls a month for a studio (basically a bed kitchen souless room)
So awesome that you were able to eliminate the second battery and the brush. Cuts down on battery costs for someone like myself considering this project. Have you seen Mr Electrons BLDC controller? I think that's the direction I want to take my build for simplicity sake
I watched your last video with some significant envy, and then you drop another with another fair step in the evolution of Rusty. Great stuff. Keep it up! Oh, and can you provide a source for the magnet you bought?
Awesome project! I would love to see these conversions produced to power all kinds of electric vehicles 🚗 😮😅❤🎉I l love the idea of combining an American alternator with a controller made by ASI in Canada! Then you are using primarily North American made parts !😮❤
The amp draw should've kept the batteries pretty warm. Besides, getting 14 amp hours out of a 18 amp rated pack is pretty good if they're recycled cells.
I would never have thought of using that magnet and the original pole pieces. Seems like the magnetic flux would be going in and out in a toroid shape, and not interacting fully with the stator coils, Well I guess it works. I would have built up a core and mounted two magnets for every three electrical poles, alternating NSNSNS facing out. But your way obviously works fairly well. Your run results aren't that bad, considering your speed. If you throttled back to 10 or 12mph you would easily triple your range, maybe more. ALso, less stares and less attention from overzealous minions of the law, in case you are over a legal power or top speed limit for a motorized bike to not be classified as a motorcycle, subject to all the associated regulatory crap. That magnet probably cost 10x what the original alternator cost. Seriously, you are starting to get up to where an off the shelf motor is cheaper. But maybe saving money was not really your objective. Good project. Well done. Next, how bout an ultralight airplane? LOL
@@austiwawa Also, it would be awesome to see you putting this alternator back into the go-kart to test it, comparing the first version from the old video (sensorless, LiPo rotor feed, and chinese controller), to now in 2021 (hall sensors, PM rotor, and Kelly Controller)
@@austiwawa Hey dude absolutely clever conversion of the alternator.My question is "can you rig up some type of generator to have the bike self sustain run?"with peddle asist.Mabey a 24v moter converted to a generator to run the alternator? THAT WOULD BE OSOME!!!!!
Really enjoying your DIY electric build series, would love to see a part 3 with added field weakening to take advantage of the brushless upgrade! Keep up the good work mate.
