My Dad flew in the 31st fighter group 307th squadron with the MX designation. Mark VB though. He was part of the Dieppe Raid/ Operation Jubilee and Operation Torch before returning stateside to do flight training for new pilots. Thanks for the build!
Hi, thanks for this nice video and piece of History. I wanted to highlight that some British spitfires and P40's used to wear US markings to avoid being too much targeted by the French Vichy regime pilots (and some free France pilots also) who were at that time still hating them after Mers el Kebir tragedy. French aviation was supposed to only defend the colonies territories and leave the Germans and Italians defend themselves, but any British plane was seen like a direct menace. UK assaulted and bombed Syria and Lebanon protected by the French Vichy regime as well... Hence a looong effort from De Gaulle to explain and stop this will of revenge, and in the end convert the pilots to fight against the correct ennemy right after the opération Torch ! But the scar remained long open.
The chipping fluid is something that intrigues me but I can’t bring my to try it I have a 30 year old method of chipping that works really well but it adds several hours to a build hard to teach an old dog new tricks sometimes nice work again thanks
I really like your videos. They are very informative. I would like to suggest that you leave info for paints/thinner ratios etc. longer on the screen. I find I have to rewind often to see what you used and the ratios.
Fantastic skills. I loved the way you depicted the overpainting of RAF roundels, with USAAF markings, brilliant! I have to take issue with the current trend in weathering. Whilst I understand the unbelievable amount of skill involved, and the techniques that were absent in the early days (I started modelling about 1970), I think many current-day modellers go overboard with weathering. There's much more of a case for chipping (sand-blasted paint finishing was literal!) and fading, but my only criticism (and it is a personal opinion, probably not held by many) was that your Spit was slightly overdone in this respect. But, what an awesome build. Congratulations.
Great Video ! Thank You for giving me the Spitfire bug. Got 2 of the Eduard MK VIII on the shelf, time to start messing with it. Hope you and your loved ones are well ! Cheers, Tony
Excellent video mate.Don’t change how and what your doing.Your mix of history of the subject then talk through build is spot on.All the best from the U.K,,,And lovely spitfire..Tally-oh.!👍🇬🇧🇺🇸
I just built a USAAF spitfire myself...and had the exact same issue with that AK Chipping fluid as well. I put it on way, way too thick and the water based paints I was using destroyed the paint as I was spraying it on. Had to strip the whole thing and try again. 2nd time went a lot better.
It definitely takes some getting used to. I found the second the chipping fluid beads you’re going to get crap results. I dust it on now in three thin coats.
I think the weathering looks appropriate. North Africa is a very parched and arid climate. One sandstorm could weather an aircraft to this extent in a matter of a few hours. Looks like you hit the nail right on the head.
great video !, a good combination of the actual build and commentary . I've been building kits for years off and on, currently in isolation and decided to bring some kits with me. thanks for explaining your techniques.
As a new follower i have to say that your intention of giving a little bit of history to your builds is great! Also your Models are awesome. The weathering on this Spit looks really nice and authentic. Greetz from Germany.
I think you do a really good job on this spitfire I like how your withering and chipping on the winging well done next time do a me262 that would look really good
A very interesting video. I liked the potted history of the American Spit and also how you concentrate on some areas of the build and finish rather than just ploughing through a build. I don't think I've ever got chipping to look right and don't use it much now. I think there is a scale factor to it,so copying a photo doesn't necessarily look right on the model. After all we use washes and dry brushing to increase the depth affect on models. If real aircraft had the pronounced black lines on the panels they would look most peculiar but on models its a great enhancing effect. My struggle is to get good sharp and dark panel lines without the model's panels looking "toned down". Any tips gratefully accepted.
Nice job. Those bars on the spit doors that are molded in are like fingers on a chalk board to me. Maybe I've spoiled myself on the aftermarket ones that replace it, but gee. I wasn't sold on some of the chipping around that air intake on the bottom fuselage and wing. The weathering is tough on these desert aircraft. You have to dump a bucket of sand colored powder on it. Homogenizing that camo and weathering can be a tough balancing job.
This plane looks really great in person Robbie. I think the buff and the pigments really give it that dusty look and tone down the aluminum so the chipping doesn’t look too excessive.
3 года назад
Absolute wonderful work. Realy beautiful Spitfire and great video. Greetings. Aleš 😎👍
* I went too far with the wear and tear* Me: Aw it doesn’t look it, seems like the appropriate amo...*OH MY GOD WHAT HAVE YOU DONE* Still love the model I found it funny when the cut showed the amount of tear you did. I’m at uni so I havn’t had much chance to make models but come Christmas I’ll be back on them!
I recently for the first time tried the chipping method as you described except using hair spray. I found it next to impossible to get the paint to chip when I applied the water no matter how long it took. So then I experimented and after letting each layer only dry for a few hours it chipped down to the primer. So after a few forum posts I was told 1. primer 2. underlying colour (me Tamiya aluminum) which you have to let dry for at least 24 hrs or it will also chip down to primer or plastic if done to soon. 3. Clear coat over the chipping area to protect it but told by some not needed. 4. Top colour. Now here I was told to let the top coat only dry for a couple of hours max then start the water chipping process and the paint will chip much easier without removing all paint to the primer surface. Have not tried it yet but will see. I use Tamiya and AK thinned with Mr Color leveling thinner. I wouldn't worry about it looking over chipped. Looks good to me. Take a look at Will Pattison's recent Tamiya Spitfire build and it's pretty heavily chipped. I like the Uschi templates you used there. Will have to get some. I almost prefer post shading/weathering. Tried pre-shading and I don't seem to get very good results. I especially like the shading effects and weathering with oils over a matt clear coat. Flory models showed a good example on how to post shade with oils on his recent 1/72 hurricane build. Doogs' Models shows a good example of weathering with oils done on his Intruder build ep 20. (Not trying to take away from your channel but you may like both of their methods). Good luck.
Besides the Uschi templates, look at taking a scrubbing pad like a Brillo, peeling that down very thin and spraying through that to make a random splatter pattern. I like the Uschi and Artool templates, but that brillo technique is another tool of randomness that works extremely well.
Love your channel. I also did not realize until recently that the British used the P-40 in North Africa. I guess I usually think about all the Armor used in North Africa and don't think about all the aircraft ;-)
Hi model guy..loved the video.Just getting back into aircraft modeling and it seems a world away from when I tried modeling in my teens.Trying airbrushing/weathering on a mig-21 at the moment so your videos help in trying to improve my models.cheers.
Great video and loved the model! looks great. The only thing I would say is that the USA flew Mk Vb spitfires, not MkIX, the history you gave about the mark being a stopgap was specific to the MkV. Essentially the MkVI was in development as a very high altitude fighter, but due to need the MkV was brought in early. The MkVa was basically a MkI with a bigger and better engine bolted onto the front (you can tell by looking at the tail feathers) and the MkVb was a MkVa with a better wing (including cannon). The MkIX was a much later war development, by which point the USA were quite comfortable in their own, home grown fighters. Keep up the great channel!
The 308th FS of thr 31st FG flew the iX, converted to the VIII until 1944 when they moved into Mustangs. Here is a source also stating the different types the USAAF operated. warisboring.com/americas-spitfires/
@@TheModelGuy a-ha I stand somewhat corrected, apologies, and thanks for your reply. The USA pilots did indeed fly the mk ix, but not until the Sicily/Italy campaign. I learned something, many thanks!
using glue and putty to make anti slip surfaces on 1/32 jets. I did it on my tomcat and instead of the shitty decal it now has a beautifully textured anti slip surface. you can also just mask it with tape so no fancy products needed. just putty, extra thin glue and a firm brush for stippling. and after applying paint it with some dark grey.
Great job on another build. I built the Mark IX not too long ago and didn’t like it. Eduard made it unnecessarily complicated in the cowl and exhaust areas. Tamiya’s Mark 1 is the best on the market IMO.
It definitely takes a lot more fitting before committing to glue but it does give you a very accurate nose. I also have the Tamiya Mk I Spit in the stash, so we may see it one day in a series like the Mustangs
I was always hesitant to use chipping fluid for chipping on aircraft. I feel like there are a lot of things that can affect your result like the number of layers, how much its diluted, how far away your airbrush is, and i don't want the chips either not show at all or the paint to flake off like crazy. So I usually always chip with a brush, it takes longer, but i feel like there is more control over the result.
I really liked the vid, but agree the wing leadig edge chipping is too much, plus the wing root on the right side is generally less than the left- you know why. Also the staining under the belly to match the other wear n tear, would be much more pronounced- they really leaked and it flowed back in the airflow. But, I agree, it's all about progress and I love the exhaust painting tip. I will give that a go fo sho.
Good vid, nice different Spitfire I'm surprised you didn't use weathering powders for the fading back. scheme as for techniques, for panel lines on metallic finishes, I paint a black a base then scribe through the metallic paint to reveal a black line from the base using a swing pin in a pin vice.
Beautiful build,wish i was half as good.Just one thing,the Rotol props were made of wood,look for any pic of a MkIX that has belly landed,no bent prop,just snapped off ones.Otherwise superb!
Good to know! Also you are seeing a lot of time and effort edited into a 13 minute video. It takes a lot of patience and failures to get to this level and I am learning new stuff still every day
@@TheModelGuy No offence,what you do,i can only dream about,you clearly know 99.9% of your history,i have seen loads of modellers make the same mistake,just wanted to let you know so that us lesser mortals would be informed in the future so that we don't make the same mistakes.I have seen loads of videos of builds in various scales that are truely incredible,but let down with 'chipped metal' wooden propellers.Wonderfull stuff!
I checked, and to my surprise, with a few 40-41 3 blade exceptions, this is true for the wood being a main construction for most, and all the late 4-5 blade models... That actually amazes me, as I always assumed they were metal...
In my humble opinion, the final colorization of the exhausts stacks do no reflect the high heat that was the main determinant of their color, and this would change through the continued use of the engine over time.
Wow! That came together beautifully! I haven't tried a lot of techniques, but especially chipping paint and heavy weathering. I'm just now making serious strides in seam sanding and gap filling. When I heard your comment about #fixthat$h*t I was honestly a little disappointed to hear it. Matt and Will do fine work and I also learn from them, and even though I'm no Saint, I just don't find the profanity to be necessary. I find it unprofessional. Sorry. That's just my opinion, but you did ask.
A very interesting model. It looks great. One could say, it's too much chipping going on, but not for me. How you said, it tells a story. What's your next project? Maybe the nemesis of the Spitfire in North Africa, the Bf 109 of the DAK!? Would be nice to see that one. Cheers!
The Spitfire turned well at high speed (above 250 mph) but could not compete with German aircrafts in low speed turns, especially not the FW-190A... The way the Mark I X redressed the balance was that, using the better climb rate from the new engine, it could climb then dive in hit and run attacks. Turning at low speed was a more important tactic however (unlike what was assumed at the start of WWII) as this could evade diving attacks, and "trap" targets in turns for longer target times... Pierre Clostermann called the notion of the Spitfire out-turning German Me-109s and FW-190As, at low speeds, where turning inevitably went, "a good joke", and "a die hard legend"...
Pictures are worth a thousand words, videos offer a whole lot more. But What I like about your approach is, here is a friendly story...much like how we as the typical modeller picks their next kit (the story within the markings or subject). As I am building I have done or am doing research on the item, this can be one of my Fav aspects of a build...research. I also like how you touch on techniques, but maybe you can help a lot of modellers (including me) on how you fill gaps with various types of fillers. Maybe create a filler video, in between builds..? (see what I did there?) I love to use the Vallejo Putty, perfect putty and also the dissolved putty, as they typically do not need sanding, esp for small areas. #fixthatsh*t LOL.
i built a p51 and an fw190 a few years back, but didn't like them all too much cause they were the pre painted kits and looked terrible afterwards. so i got new ones. recently ive been getting more serious with modeling and trying to put more detail into everything. SO, i got for each plane their respected engines. i do feel like im going a bit over my skill level because ive never done extensive modifications like this before.
Amother stunning build my friend. I must say I wish you had a load more subscribers as your channel is totally unique, you deserve more for sure. I like the weathering as it is so I wouldn't change it at all but yes you are your own worst critique! Must say being at uni it makes me miss my airbrush a lot so it's only simple construction of airliners at the moment. Still can't say I like/feel comfortable describing lost detail or working with oils but hey it'll take time to improve. Any chance of seeing a 1/48 French Navy Rafale/ CF18/F111 soon? Al the best, M
@@TheModelGuy excellent! Must say Canada do pull off some excellent special liveries, shame the RAF don't do the same! Looking foward to seeing the build.
@@TheModelGuy It's a shame really. I'd love it if the RAF had done a full livery on a Tornado, best they really did is a spine and tail I've done on a 1/48 tornado F3. Germany and Canada are the best when it comes to special liveries.
3:00 Eagle Squadron was not operational during the Battle of Britain and none of the Americans who flew in that battle survived. There were certainly no Americans with Battle of Britain experience flying in Eagle Squadron at any point in its existence. Apart from that, the first P-51B fighter group was made operational in December, 1943 and participated in ‘Big Week’ in February, 1944. By that time, this fledgling unit had already received its baptism of fire.
About that chipping on the left wing looking overdone: I think it has to do with the thickness of those layers, makeng the chipping look like, well, 48th scale chipping, showing hard edges, and making the layer thickness conspicuous. In reality that was continuous wear, more grinding than chipping. You'd probably get a better result with silver, then clear as a protective layer, then topcoat, and reveal the aluminium by carefull grinding.
It came out great though I feel you when you think you’ve gone too far with the weathering / chipping - even if you have some great reference pics showing a certain thing / you have to ask yourself if that would translate well to a model as sometimes it just won’t or will just look weird. I think you got away with it here though - well done 😊
@@TheModelGuy Thanks, just completed a Tamiya Mk 1, and the wing-fuselage fit on that was about as painless as can be, about to start an Eduard Mk V, and some initial test fitting suggests doing the lower wing first...have been wondering about those plugs on the inner leading edge. Beautiful work, by the way.
I mean doesnt need to be an American version. Could just be because its famous aircraft of that era. When i had very minimal skill as a teen i put together a spitfire kit and used britisg markings. And am tempted to buy one again now that im far more experienced, not adding bits like you are doing, but better in painting and assembly.
I feel like you sometimes are not happy with your models but to me, they like amazing. I got in to modeling about 6 months ago and have done a few models but after seeing your models, it makes me want to tear apart mine because they look so bad to your models! Anyways great build. Also how many aircraft models do you think you have built in your lifetime?
It's not that I am not happy with them, I'm just very critical of what I can do better on next time. As for completed models I'm not very sure. I think I average 10-12 a year, so maybe around 30 over the last few years?
Good question. Whatever one you are comfortable using. I use a cheap Iwata Clone for 90% of my work and a Pasche Talon for detail work. I gave the Talon to a friend to use because I did not like how much concentration it took to feather paint for motling. I'm getting a Procon 270 at the end of the month as a replacement. That's about $100 USD. I hear a lot of good things about it
Well I have ‘liked’ however your channel is not for me, you are to Nerdy, too Pretentious yet so enjoyable. I want the finish but without all the repeatable bits, I want the finish without going crazy!! It’s truly wonderful and in my head at night I do what you and night after night you visit to ask me to sell, When I do sell it and I will it will be on eBay. You may bid there if you want, I would expect circa to be €100 shipped. Am I to take that our trips out are now over??!! Bob England
I try not to come across as pretentious but that’s what happens when you don’t follow the old dogmas of modelling. Gloss before decals, gloss with future etc. If that’s coming across as pretentious I apologize as it’s not my intent. As for finished 1/48 models, people have to remember they are paying for someone’s experience and time. Not a die cast model. €100 won’t even get a 1/72 kit from the bigger names.
@@TheModelGuy I apologise, my words were harsh and undeserving. I don’t know why I was so inclined. I do like your work, maybe I am annoyed with myself because I will not be able to be so precise. What has surprised me (on my return) is that modellers range from basic glue , paint maybe a little of this and that and ignore the overspray to folk like yourself. The thing is both are happy. I am more the former yet desiring to be the latter! Will I be happy? Is modelling for me? Sorry once again Bob
@@BobMuir100 modelling is a great hobby that anyone can enjoy at whatever level they want. I tell people when they say “I wish I was at your level” that it’s important to recognize we’re all at different parts of the road. I didn’t wake up one day and start building at this level. You’re seeing about seven years cultivation of failing and learning from failures.
@@dbenci2071 quite a few USAAF pilots who flew the Spit and the Mustang said the Spitfire was more maneuverable than the Mustang. But like you said, it didn't have the range. Both aircraft were designed for different jobs.
@@joemoma8384 Do you have an airbrush and compressor right now? If you do, this can get you started: 1. Pick your paint. you can go Acrylic (Tamiya, MMP, AK, Vallejo, Ammo, etc) which makes for less fumes and easier cleanup but not as durable a finish. Lacquer paints are more noxious but are, IMHO, the best paints. Tamiya Lacquer, AK Real Color, MRP, Mr Color/Gunze are all great brands with a variety of colours to choose from. 2. Match your thinner to your paint, Acrylics need acrylic thinners (don't use water), and Lacquers need Lacquer thinners, generally speaking. There is a exception where you can use MLT with Tamiya Acrylic paints, among others. IE Tamiya Acrylic paint needs Tamiya X20A thinner or Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner (MLT). Mr Color (Lacquer) needs MLT. For AK Real color use AK High compatibility Thinner or MLT. 3. Thin your paint at least 50/50. I use 60/40 for general painting and even thinner for mottling, stenciling, gun and exhaust stains. You wont be covering the entire model at once so no need to blast the paint on. Spray it in thin coats 3. Set your compressor between 15-20 psi, depends on your airbrush. 4. Watch YT videos. Model Guy has lots of footage and he's been putting up his ratios and pressures for reference. Notice that the airbrush is usually less than 2' from the surface of the model when spraying, and more often than not its even closer. 5. Practice on a paint mule. Adjust your pressure and thinner ratios, the distance from the brush to the model, how far back you're pulling the trigger (try 1/3 to 1/2 way back to avoid pooling the paint). hope this helps
Laminated wood for Rotol Jablo blades. There were also aluminium ones however. incidentally: the leading edge of those Jablo's were brass strips. Another weathering gotcha.
