I am perturbed to see dislikes of your vids.As an avid watcher,I enjoy your content and look forwards to more.As we say in Yorkshire,if tha cannot say a good thing say now't.
those posts will last like 7 years lol, didnt believe it till my brother in law used em to make some braces and the buried parts rotted. i prefer drill pipe. maybe his soil isn't as acidic no telling
It looks nice, I like the looks of those post.Getting it done before real cold weather. You’re going to have space for lots of animals. God bless you as you continue your dream. Stay safe.
Whenever your drilling post holes and you are cleaning the hole out with the post hole digger, let the dirt get on the auger in the hole then shut the auger off and lift the post hole digger up out of the hole and then turn it on. You will save yourself some time. Good video
I have to tell you Evan, you're doing everything right on the property. Everything is working well and it looks like a first rate job. Keep up the good work! You ought to tell us about your two older boys sometime........
One of our boys is on his sensor year in college, taking electrical engineering. The other boy didn't like college and entered the work force. He has a full time job at a manufacturing facility.
Might I suggest that you do the horizontal braces all the same way as you did the bilevel braces in this video? In other words, drill the hole in one end of the horizontal brace only; then fit the horizontal brace between the two posts and drill the second hole in the horizontal brace by extending the drill bit through the vertical post (which you already drilled and into the horizontal bracel. Oh, and to prevent drilling too far into the horizontal brace, take a piece of 1/2" interior diameter pipe and cut it to a length that leaves the drill bit exposed to the diameter of the post PLUS 3" (or whatever depth you want the hole to be) That is, if the post is 6" in diameter, cut the 1/2" ID pipe to leave 9" of the drill bit exposed - you won't be able to drill the hold deeper than that!
Looking good! Curious to see how you will pull around that corner. I know it is not a 90 degree corner, but I have struggled, especially if there is any kind of incline or decline, to go around a post and not have issues. Usually you end of with too much wire on the top of bottom of the corner post as it does not come around uniformally (if that makes sense). You might be better off doing that as two seperate pulls/runs. And you are right, there are different ways to do the bracing on hills. I stuck with following the contour of the hill and simply measureing up from the ground on each post for the pin. And a note on pins. I have used rebar I cut into lengths myself and even just bolts. Rebar was probably the most cost effective. Bought them in 24" sections and got 3 8" pieces out of them. In the end, it is just a locator and the brace does the work. My 2 cents. I imagine you will be happy to get that pasture done. I know you have been planning that for some time.
A suggestion for spacing between post or the depth of hole use a stick marked with the measurement you want. You might look into a steel digging bar to help you with the rock in the hole; find one with flat cap on one end to help with tamping the soil around the post.
I just cut a notch in each upright post sit the cross-brace in there, then use soft no 8 wire and twist it tight with a hardwood stick bringing the side wires into one in the center. The stick is then twisted to rest against the cross-brace and can be twisted back down to re-tension if required. Takes a little longer until you get used to cutting the notches with the chainsaw, but it uses less hardware, so costs less.
Another enjoyable video and being able to learn about fence building. I’ll need to build one next year to keep the deer out of a planned garden area. 👍
Thank you Evan and Rebecca for sharing your experience. Blessings. Happy Thanksgiving. Stay safe, strong and healthy. Asking Our Lord to bless you with great success. ☝️🙏🇺🇸💪👉...
Hey, I really enjoy your videos, your fence and braces really look good. I am getting ready to do some fencing on my place and I hope it turns out half as good as yours. I really learn a lot from your videos, keep them coming.
We had these H x 2 in New Zealand in the mid 1970s they never last to the 1980 s over time they bow in the middle . the stay wire is lifting the strainer up ..
Great job Evan and Rebecca, that’s a great looking fence brace you are building, you’re going to have the pastures secure. Thanks for sharing with us. Keep up the good work. Fred. 👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Fence building is def a 2 person job. I love how professionally you approach everything. The videos are always thought through, how you present, camera angles etc. You are basically doing the job of at least 5 people: presenting, script writing, directing, camera and editing. how do you find the time?
There’s a much easier way to do this by building a pair of very simple stands out of 2x4’s with a “V” on top to rest the horizontal brace in. Set the end post, place the brace pin in it, set the stands in place, rest the horizontal brace on top of them and slide it into the pin. Then dig the hole for the next post directly below the end of the brace, drop it in the hole, snug it up against the brace, and then tamp the dirt in. Eliminates the need to wrestle with the posts, drill anything off center, or even trim the brace to fit. So much easier,! Build the stands with screws and you can easily dismantle them afterward to reuse the wood for something else.
I am Considering this as I messed up for our deer fence for our garden… 7’ tall posts (out of the ground) 3’ in the ground… I thought I was being smart and put the next closest posts 6’ on center on both sides of all 4 corner posts so getting the 30 degree tensioner wire just isn’t possible… I mean… it is, it just will be very low, or very high….
Not sure how far down you put your brace rail (horizontal) but it's supposed to be no further down from the top of your brace post (vertical) than 8 to12 inches.
Hey Evan, first off, thanks for all you do. My brothers and I really enjoy your videos. Second, just wanted to know if you have tried any method of twisting the wire to tighten it? Rather than grapples or come alongs. My family has always used like a 1x1 or some sort of skinny metal object (like an electric fence post), to lodge in between the wire and twist it until tight, then fasten it to the cross member of the brace to secure it. Just curious!
No I haven't tried that. I have seen that done at other places. The gripples are only $1.25 each, so they aren't too expensive. I am going see how they do over the next year. If they fail, then maybe I'll try the twisting method.
The post that you say is pulling towards the barnyard you have the wire backwards you pull in a direction from top to bottom by having the wire at the top of the post to the bottom of the post you're pulling in that direction you have the wire in the opposite direction
He has the wires correct for the direction of pull. As you pull the first post, the brace is trying to push the top of the second post. For the top of the second post to move, it would also have to move the bottom of the first post because the top of the second post is connected to the bottom of the first post by the wire. If the wire was reversed, pulling the first post would release the tension on the wire so it would not help keep the posts from moving.
If Becka can’t help you next time with holding the post on something like that try using your forks, that’s how I in stall my gates because I too half to do everything solo but I see you have a little more help from your wife, mine ain’t haven it, the forks work our great thought
Great videos! We recently purchased 40 acres, and have a goal of fencing in some pasture. Your videos have been very helpful in our research. I’m curious as to the size/gauge of the high tensile wire you use (or is it a standard size)? The Gripple sure makes for a clean install. Thanks for the info and taking the time to share.
8 foot post. 58" out of the ground 38" in the ground. After trying different fence braces. I think double "H" braces are a must. Single "H" braces always seem to shift over time.
It doesn’t make sense to go to the extra step of cutting your horizontal post to length. Sink and plumb the first post then lay the horizontal post on the ground against it, mark the next post hole position at the other end and dig it, boom the post is the exact length it needs to be. What is the purpose of a double H?
I dont know if it holds any truth, but an old timer once told me that the posts should run perpendicular to the ground vs. Plumb. Whats your thoughts? It always killed me to think my post would be out of plumb.
Yes, fencing guides say perpendicular to the ground. They say plumb fencing is for decorative fence, and perpendicular to the ground for farm fence. But I put the posts in plumb this time, since it seemed mostly flat ground. The ground was more unlevel than I thought
@@johnsweeney1898 John, they are referring to the posts being perpendicular to the ground, not the rails or fencing. So you can maintain the height of the fence on uneven ground.
End to end is all you need the only real reason to terminate a fence is a gate. Use good high tensile wire and learn to tie and strech it proper and will last a a long time.
No disrespect but I think you might be depending on those Gripple things too much. I was told by one of the sales men and another customer at a farm/ranch supply store that some people are complaining about them because of water getting into them and freezing. When this happens the Gripple looses its hold on the wire. They both told me the Gripples are a good product for a temp fix but just to go back to the old school way. Have you ran into this issue? I love the way the fence in looking.
JudithB Interesting, guess we will find out pretty soon about Gripples. I like the clean look, and looking at my Hs, I wish I had learned this way 25yrs ago. But not taking them apart after 25 yrs! LOL Plus barbwire is much harder to work with. I did start using rebar to tighten the brace wires, since wood rots too fast.
If they fail this winter, I will make a video fixing that mistake. This is my first year using them. I am happy with them so far, we will wait and see how they perform.
I read somewhere if the fence is over 48" high double braces would be preferred. If we do a barb wire on bottom and on top, with 48" woven wire inbetween, the way I would space everything, Our fence will be 54" high. These fence runs are longer than my last runs, so hoping double braces will help.
