@@jesimsswho peed in ur cheerios... Kyle is doing a kyller job soooo.... Stfu? 😂 This boat is dope! I'd be down to throw down on some cards or dominoes fo sho fo sho
@@-Mike-69 I keep doing mental force diagrams of what would happen if 10 people (or 5 my size) got on that roof....... Most of the force paths seem to end at a moment arm - its just a touch scary.
You should sleeve the bolts going through the aluminum tubing so it doesn't collapse the tubing. Also I remembered that from the lotus build you need some type of sealant/adhesive between the steel and aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion which I can imagine would be 10 times worse on something on the water.
"It's not compressing the wood like people were worried about" That's because you haven't begun to get water absorption and wet/dry cycling. It will happen 👉OVER TIME👈 and the mounts will fail at some point down the road. Please cut that wedge of wood out and replace it with delrin or something that doesn't deflect or compress like wet wood will.
I thought about using steel box cutouts to replace the ply. I think it's odd that anyone would (hmmm, wood?) bolt directly to a wooden platform, but I guess they know what they're doing. And for sure, unless the wood under the steel is treated both inside the ply itself and on top, it for sure is going to rot and eventually cause weak spots. Worse still, even if it WAS treated, it's still going to rot away at some point. And sea water is the worst for rotting everything.
As an aerospace structural engineer, I am concerned about the lateral strength of the steel structure. Especially, after you put furniture and people on the 2nd floor. I think you need much stronger attachments to the floor. What you did is a good start, but I think you need a much stronger joint to react the moment at the base.
A nice big X in front of and behind the seats forming the "poker area" at 33.30 would be the logical place. There isn't anything to hold onto on this boat so a couple of vertical poles would also reduce the bounce in the upper floor. All structural members look a bit too small in bending especially with dynamic loads.
I'd say 2 bix g X from left to right at each end of the second floor but round the tops of the X so you don't loose head room walking threw where the pinch point was
With everything off deck, Roll carpet over entire floor, Then install everything over carpet. Same as pontoon,camper/RV manufactures do. No BS cutting.
Don't forget to paint the underside of the feet where it bolts to the wood on the lower deck. And make sure you put some sort of isolator to keep any steel in contact with aluminum. That way you don't have any dissimilar metal corrosion.Painting the steel is not enough to stop that. Steel and aluminum do not like each other.
The round tubes used to support the second floor look so small in diameter.I just googled 2 story pontoon boats and even on small ones the tubes look twice as big if not even larger diameter and have much more gusseting than this, the mounting points also appear to be tied into the pontoon structure with the weight spread out over a larger area. I don’t think the pontoons are going to fail but that top floor is going to be continually flexing and moving all the time and will have a lot of weight on it. In some places it’s only bolted into the wooden floor, if that rots out from water ingress then that’s the mounts gone. I’m no expert in pontoon building but I’m a mech engineer and piping/plant designer, im genuinely concerned about it, I don’t think it’s going to instantly break or anything but don’t think it’s going to last long before serious issues start to manifest. Just continually adding chunks of metal to fix problems is adding more weight and changing its centre of gravity. Not following the “design” and just winging it and making do where stuff fits is just asking for trouble. Wouldn’t risk my friends and family’s safety on it but that’s just me. Just don’t try and build a fucking plane or something next!.
Just a quick one when welding tubes or box section drill a small hole in the tube, it lets the air escape when it expands (heat) and stops blowing out your welds, also use the small holes to squirt wax oil inside to protect the tubs and bars on the weld joints from the inside
Another person watching Cleetus race car build and then commenting the info you saw not that long ago. People do this all the time. See something on one channel and then immediately post the info like the idea was theirs to begin with. Just trying to make themselves look smart when they probably have never even held a tig torch.
@@-Mike-69 what channel is that on, sounds interesting, I know he's having a Camaro built by someone, is that the channel you mean? Just to highlight the point I've been in the trade for 30+ years for my sins and a guy called Malcolm Collins taught me this when I did my apprenticeship back in the day, and why am I taking the time to explain this to someone that has no relevance to me what so ever?
You have a problem, the strength of the steel plates and bolts vs the strength of the aluminum tubes. Because of the torsional (side) forces you’re going to be having, along with the twisting forces when the boat is no longer supported by a concrete floor. There’s going to be some deformation of the super structure. Please be careful during your sea trials and when you get on the gas in a turn.
The whole thing is going to flex like a mofo. The Aluminium welds are going to work harden and crack and the steel welds won't last much longer. Not sure Chris is aware quite how much stress is involved in a boat navigating anything but flat calm water. Plus that Hot Tub "ramp" at the front is going to force the front of the boat upwards rather than the pontoon noses just being able to slice through the water, that's gonna increase longitudinal flex! There's a really good reason why manufacturers don't make Pontoon boats this long!
A small cabinet in front of the helm would be an excellent place for a lot of the safety gear required by the Coast Guard like a flare, fire extinguisher, an EPIRB , maybe a small handheld radio for emergencies. Then just scatter life vests in the seat storages around the boat and you're set. Would also make inspections easier if it's all in one place, because you know they'll wanna stop you just to check out the largest pontoon they've ever seen lol.
Cool build. One suggestion from a Mechanical Engineer, make sure you consider galvanic corrosion any where you have dissimilar materials in contact with each other. Look at providing some type of an isolation pad between the steel doubles underneath the aluminum frame where you plan on adding the additional bolts for stabilizing the second story gussetts
Yeah thats concerning - but really - hang a ton off that and do the mental force diagrams on that truss structure when it swings. The odds of corrosion mattering, not high. There a lot of long moment arms that end in more moment arms, few straight force paths, no gussetting. No way that takes 10 beefy lads dancing on top even once.
Another engineer here... galvanic corrossion is the last thing that will kill this boat mate, look at the bloody thing, side loading on the second floor is a death trap, his 'marine ply' that he isn't even going to through a single coat of epoxy over, the amount of load and flex in the hot tub box once under way. If it gets more than 4 years old without completely falling apart or killing someone for a number of other reasons.... then maybe some Duralac or machanical isolation of dissimilar metals would be of use....
@@HoagesMoto yep you are correct. A lot here that is suspect. I wonder where the center of gravity is port to starboard. Those stairs are certainly an offset mass.
You need more lateral supports for your second floor. Just the weight of your furniture will cause that second floor to wobble from side to side while underway and it will slowly tear those welds apart.
With the size of the deck, and all the furniture sealing off the sides, I definitely install scuppers, lots of scuppers, or other means of quickly draining water if you take green water over bow, which happens all the time on pontoons, especially if they're carrying a lot of weight forward.
The 2nd floor worries me a lot! I keep thinking of a domestic house deck and the beams and joists it requires. And that is a static environment! General rule for bracing is 45 degrees. I think you may need a lot more of it too.
You need to paint frame footings between the frame and wood floor. Those plates will be the first to rust out and there goes your structure when that happens.
I realize everyone is a super duper engineer but i am really concerned about that super structure. Ive been building aluminum tubework for years and an engineer as my dayjob. I wont go too deep into it but would you build a deck with a 12 ft open span with 1.5" tubes at what look like a 3ish ft on center? Now put that deck on another dynamic structure and throw a little salt air into it. Consider like metal buiding roof trusses. They use small tube like your superstructure but its more trellis'd. You dont have near enough triangles in that. I would seriously consider adding alot more meat in it.
I would consider building a metal frame inside the bathroom. Just around the door and down the side of the boat. Tie that into the tower/2nd floor and not worry about the racking of the tower cracking all of the fibreglass on the wood frame when it flexes while hitting waves
I was really happy to see the gussets at the bottom too. Digging the build as a past employee of a boat manufacturer in California. Can't wait to see it floating.
Mig is really only meant to be pretty under ideal conditions. those with many hours of experience can make it happen but its meant to burn in and make a strong weld quickly in spite of the look. If you want really pretty, strong welds you need to tig it. but that takes much longer. In my experience, unless what youre making is public facing, they dont need to look good, they just need to be strong. Also, Oregon Powder Coat can do massive structures including full size semi trailers.
I actually think it’s better without him. I mean he was a great addition to the team. But everything that was related to fabrication before was just a one liner like “Oscar did a great job” and a time-lapse. Whereas now it’s a lot more in-depth on the process itself.
Put some extra grip on the handrail for the stairs, the oil from hands using it will wear through that paint quit a bit faster, being a high touch surface
Mount the base of the structure directly on the metal, metal to metal. To not redo the entire structure try maybe get a solid chunk of metal 1 inch thick, also wider to spread out the potential wobble and brace the tubes to the base also, like gussets.
Now, seeing the furniture on the boat. Did you not think to hide supporting braces for the second floor behind the furniture? Why not have an upright pole right where the pinch-point is, and connect that to the uprights on the side, with diagonal bracing. The upright would have an additional benefit for something for the passengers to hold on to.
Another thought- In order to keep your passengers dry I would build some sort of folding/telescoping latter to the top level on the outside of the stairs from the water. It could be retractable or folding to keep out of the water surface as you are motoring, I'm guessing people are going to be jumping from the top level. Just something to think about. I would also want ladders in the bow, and at the stern...
If you were worried about overspray, all you had to do is lay plastic or paper down on your deck and floor surface and on anything around the boat. That would’ve taken you about 15 minutes.
Just as you painted the top of the metal frame to prevent water seeping in and rusting the metal you should do the same for the base plates. It doesn't look like you did it in the video and of the two the base plates will probably have a higher chance of water seepage.
If you want a more durable paint look into aerospace coatings, their high solids colors and clear coats are extremely durable, DuPont, Akzo Nobel, PPG, Sherwin Williams Jet Glo Express are all really good topcoat systems, especially the Skydrol resistant high solids clears. Definitely a bit more expensive but worth it in the long run.
It was the moment the furniture went on that I suddenly realized… this would actually be a genuinely cool boat to hang out on. Like, there so much room for activities!!!
Just a small remark that I remember from my structural engineering professor : for the small triangular gusset plates, drill a hole exactly where the two welds meet. It will avoid a stress concentration in that point and in this case also prevent water from pooling in that corner. For future gussets, just cut off a piece of that right angle before welding. The gusset will be just as strong, but less prone to failure under the combined loads of lateral, downward and forward-aft forces. A 1/2" or even 1/4" piece should already be enough. (In my opinion galvanic corrosion as mentioned by other people might occur, but shouldn't be too much of an issue. If you want to be 1000% sure, use a zinc-based primer on future steel parts, or more of the Steel-It which you're already using). In any case, the way you're tackling this is good in my opinion, just building and testing offers a lot more 'proof' than any calculations you might do or have done for you. Thanks for the videos, I really enjoy them!
Not sure if you painted under deck pads. If not, it will rust. Badly. All fasteners need to be marine grade too. More bracing for the top deck is likely too. Dynamic loads from waves increase requirements beyond a static structure.
Water's gonna run down those uprights, collect on and under the bottom plates of those supports and rot out the unprotected metal on the underside of them. You really need to protect every single surface, even those you are not going to see to the best possible standard. In fact, the surfaces you can't see need the best protection of all so you can rest assured there will be no corrosion.
I had a thought about your doors that are covering your hot tub. What if you were to not have the doors open left and right, but were to remove the hinge on one side, preferably close to your helm add a long, heavy duty, piano hinge down the middle of the two doors, and when you open the doors, the doors will open like an “A” towards the front of the boat ??? Just a thought
Those hot tub doors swinging open are going to be an issue with the furniture in the way. Probably better off making the doors removable using some push button hood pins. 👍
You need more structure in the front area of the hot tub "bow". You may need to roll creases too. Just too much flat area that's going to take too much pressure from wave slap. Triangulate the front if you have too.... Also, clear over whatever paint. Have to seal the paint or rust will come through every time.
That black paint is going to give a few nearly-naked revellers some unpleasant burns, but probably not to the point of blisters, fortunately! I kinda wish you'd have gone with a gloss white... You don't see that many black garden furniture for the same reason!!
Suggestion: The hot tub bin(?) will look a little unfinished/industrial when in use and the hot tub being sunken will make ingress/egress difficult and/or a bit dangerous (steps?). A big change but your thought of setting the tub on the floor may be better. Shallow out the bin and just use it for storage for the deflated tub and maybe permanently for the pump etc. Maybe eliminate one of the trap doors for strength (put the console where it was intended). With the seating surround it seems perfect with the sunken tub but practically maybe not so much. Wouldn't you even require a railing around the hole to prevent mishaps, especially with alcohol and the motion of the ocean involved? Can't see the fit in my head but maybe then the hot tub could be positioned back or forward so it doesn't block the seating (positioned right forward against the front railing would look quite natural).
Oscar literally did all the work every single thing Oscar did this guy just films and edits videos he probably paid him well but he definitely took advantage of him
Put a subwoofer box for the sound system in that little space. Just apostasy it and add cupholders so it matches everything. Sound system on a bout is a must. Love the project
Also, your attempt to strengthen the base rigidity of your vertical tubing would be easier and more stable if you would simply welded about a 6 inch plate across the three and two pipe vertical braces. You using a triangulated plate certainly helps, but only helps side to side stability not front to rear. rotation will be slightly reduced, but not sufficiently
Can I STRONGLY suggest that some padding needs to be fixed around the edges of the hole in the second floor because, without it, you will have a good number of inebriated party-ers ending their nights down in the Emergency Room having stitches sewn into the tops of their heads!¡!!
Use the space between the console and the seat there as an ice-chest tie down point. You could even get the electric cooler and use it as drink storage for when you are in the hot tub. (If this comment catches your eye, I'd love to be a part of this build in some way, shape, or form.) Love the progress. Can't wait to see the finished product.
This is the first video, out of all of the yacht ones, that I started watching. I doubted the vision and the process. I will never doubt you again, please forgive me! the furniture made the difference for me, looks amazing!
The boat is turning out great!.. i would switch out the two back 2 back seats at the pinch point with 2 of the smaller pieces. I think it would give it a better flow. Other than that, i think it's perfect so far.
So, I have to share this thought. In the space in front of the helm needs to be a trash can. It would be ideal for you while driving, those in the hottub and those in the seating area in the front. As a fellow boater, you'll thank me. Everything is coming together, and looks great!!
Franky something like the upper deck on this boat should be properly engineered. If that fails, we are talking about potential loss of life. It might cost a few thousand dollars to have an engineer do the structural calcs and ensure that it will be safe for occupancy. As it is now I can tell you with certainty that it is not safe.
Dissimilar metals (steel and alu) will corrode like crazy! You have to electrically isolate them completely from each other or you will get rampant galvanic corrosion. The bolts joining your steel frame to the alu deck/pontoons will corrode and fail within a couple of months.
16:43 before you get too much weight on the top floor, you should un bolt it. And drill a hole from the bottom in the center of the tubing, and put a rivnut in there. Then bolt to the center of the tube to the floor. And I would have used 1/4" flat bar to weld the tube to. Probably a 4" flat bar, cut into a 'T' shape to brace the tube structure. Also. I'd build a temporary tent fro sheet metal to be the oven for powder coating also drill large holes through the plywood under the steel, to make room for a steel spacer to replace the plywood.. probably under the bolt holes..
You need more like structural I beams to get the stability you need. That would be heavy though. Really what it should have been was parallel bars about 8"-12" apart with zig zagging smaller tubing in the middle. The corners then should have been 2 sided to look more like a lattice angle iron. Then at at least one end you should had better cross bracing. You could have done thinner bars too likely and welded them on a table so they would have looked better. I would have also done all aluminum so you would not have to deal with as much corrosion AND weight. I still think you should take out the hot tub and its box and fill it in. If you want the hot tub then just put it on deck.
Where your bolting stuff together to the deck plate you want to ensure exposed nuts and bolts are away from where people's feet (bare,,,) can make contact. Cuts and bruises are "No Buenos" I would use countersink screws, and bolt from below. Looks like fun so far! All the best, M-
Aren't you going to have railings around the top? Once you attach the railings, you can gusset the heck out of it. That should stiffen that frame quite well.
Hey Chris, I've been following since 50k subs and never really commented just a dedicated lurker watching every single video like the week of release. I just want to say this is absolutely insane how far we have come. This PONTOON YACHT is going to be absolutely crazy! I cannot wait to see this thing out on the water full of all the friends, and subscribers :). Can we get B is for Build in 4k please?
I would have added an extra leg coming down at the back corner of the bathroom area, against the wall in line with the ceiling/floor bar that is already there, it would hide well and provide good strength for both the wobble and additional load support close to the center of the floor.
A cheaper route would be PPG Pitt-Thane, it’s a 2 part urethane, it’s about 100/ gallon kit and if used over good primer it has great flexibility for metal, a boat shakes and wiggles for than a car but cars need to look perfect so obviously the material costs more
