It was great meeting you and seeing your shop on Tuesday. Cool seeing this model in progress and all the other models in your case that you had done videos on! If y'all viewers are in Phoenix, do yourself a favor and head over to Andy's shop. Tons of Tamiya and my favorite, Dragon kits. Truly an armor modeler's paradise.
You give me so much inspiration! You really outdid yourself with the weathering this time, freaking love it. And ofcourse, who doesnt love a little Hetzer
Thanks for that Haramasch. It explaines why the tracked motorcycle is a Kettenkraftrad. The Luftwaffe had units called Aufklarungsgruppen, or Reconnaissance groups (or squadrons). The vehicle is based on the Czech 38t chassis without which the Nasties would have been far less well equipped. Chamberlain, you idiot !
Haramasch Oh thanks for that. I know that pzkpfw is armored battle vehicle but i wondered what this mean. Can you please tell me what is Sonderkraftfahrzeug?
Sonderkraftfahrzeug was established in the early years of arms production in the Third Reich to evade the Versailles Treaty. It is a code name and means "Special (purpose) motor vehicle".
Sonder = special, Kraft = strong, fahr = to ride, zeug in this case means vehicle just as flugzeug means a flying vehicle or aeroplane. A Special Purpose Armoured Vehicle would be my translation, though there may be a more specific one out there.
and again, a very useful and lovely Video. i love the way you making the streaks on the tank, i use the same way. sometimes, not allways. so i say "thank you" for your great Video buddy. regards from Germany Robert
Excellent video as usual. I will have that recipe for the tracks, thanks, although I am trying to work out how to get the extra 5% flat red into the bottle 😊
I definitely laughed my head off , wish I could send you a spoken message 😂😂😂 But a great build as usual 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻 Greetings from Perth Western Australia 🇦🇺
i think (to give it a more dirty effect) that you should give a shot to the oil wash, it could look great on your models :) great video btw, as always !
That is an amazing looking model, great inside and a great weathering effect you've done, love the little scratches and rust areas, i hope to replicate the same effect on my little Pz 38t Ausf E/F i'm doing at the moment, just a tip as well, i have two dogs and i use a whisker from either of them tied to the end of a broken paintbrush to do things like very, very fine scratches on the model, works very, just don't got cutting all their whiskers of, you only need one haha.
Track colour: 75% Nato Brown 25% Nato Black 5% Flat Red Good thing you modelling skills are better than your math - lol! Nice build - your videos have a good balance of construction, detailing, painting and weathering. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for posting the build, Andy. I was really impressed by the rust weathering on those sideskirts. You have a lot more skill than most of us, though there will always be some to be your critics. I haven't seen all of you videos- just started watching a few months ago. Could you please explain/elaborate on why you always spray the white panel highlight after your Nato Black base coat?
Hey Andy! Great model kit!!! I have a new build suggestion for you. I just finished building the Tamyia 1/35 Marder 3 Model M. and it was just awesome. Great kit, you should check it out! Great build again!!!-John
That kit is flawed and someone needs to come out with a modern tooling. The kit is actually missing a lot of the gun compartment detail even though Tamiya put alignment marks on the sidewalls for that missing detail. WTF?!
Actually, both Eduard and Royal Model make PE and resin sets that address some of the issues but I don't know what is still missing. They are a bit pricy, as well. The Royal set runs about $55 bucks! I myself just cobbled some parts together to fake an approximation of the interior. Still would like a new one though. There are enough people making Pz II kits that someone other than Tamiya or those Eastern European companies like Alan or Maquette, as those aren't much better.
how long does it take for the glue to dry? I mean, I use the glue from Revell and it takes basically a few hours so I just glue a few pieces and leave them till the next day which is really time consuming.
Would love for you to give an approximate price Andy and maybe a few more lines about the history of the vehicle. Nearing that 50K subscriber mark Sir!!!! Thank you.
Price is going to be relative. As a store owner, he's going to give you the suggested retail, but there will be online vendors that will charge more or less. That said, the standard price for Dragon these days is roughly $65-$75 U.S., but I haven't paid much beyond half that for a couple of years.
Yes, as a kit just do something from Tamiya :) get some nice metal files (or sanding sticks but files are more crisp - watch Hamilkar Barkas' great video if you want to see) a hobby knife, some glue (Tamiya Extra Thin is great for most people) and some sprue cutters. Good fine wire cutters work if you can't get proper sprue cutters. Painting and weathering is a while other thing though... I can go into more detail for you there if you'd like.
Well I'm an airbrushing kind of guy, but you can always get away with spray cans for most tanks as they were often green, grey, and a dark yellow ochre. Tamiya spray cans are great. If you've gotta do camouflage you can always mask with tape and then do some more spray cans or you can paint by hand with a brush. But an airbrush sure helps as you can see here. Now as for weathering that can get expensive and tricky and very time consuming with lots of products involved, some of which aren't really necessary. To start, some oil paints work well for pinwashes and streaking and stuff, or you can use enamel products from Tamiya, AK Interactive, Mig, Wilder, and so on. Those would be things like the panel liner and streaking grimes and premade washes. I lean more towards oils for this stuff now. For mud you can use pigments which I really like, but dirt and stuff like that can work well too. There's plenty of great RU-vid videos about these kinds of things out there, and what I'm saying here is just general stuff without much detail or background. If you have any questions feel free to ask again, the modelling community on RU-vid is pretty great!
Andy, next time please show us your technique tor how you rolled out the photo etch muffler guide. Looks like you achieved the perfect shape and fit on this one. Thanks.
Nice kit, but I have one note. You said that on this open vehicle you spray whole interior in camo colour. I think that in camo colour should be only upper part of the interior, bottom part should be in same colour as bottom part in Hetzer, red interior colour, engine and transmission parts in dark grey.
You were closer than you think on the pronounciation Andy, only thing you got wrong was you added an N. You said it like volkenketten, but it's just volkketten. Amazing build as always though.
Awesome build as always. I see you go black shadow > white highlight > base color most of the time, but I've also seen you do black shadow > base color directly. Is there a particular reason behind it?
Andy do you carry any dragon kits in your store I have noticed that there as a model company by the name of cam or Cam and I want to pick up that polish tank the riveted one if you know what I'm talking about but I'd also like to either pick up a dragon interior 38t or get the ryfield interior tiger and panther set but I want to know do you recommend the interior sets and or if you carry the dragon kits
I'm curious as to if theres a way to add marks on a tank where they've been shot by MG or even cannon fire that didnt penetrate, so it looks like its seen actual battle
Andy, I'm surprised you made a light mix of Dunkelgelb to simulate late war paint, but didn't use the red primer base which was in effect when this vehicle was prototyped.
You're thinking of the Flakpanzer 38(t) auf Selbstfahrlafette 38(t) Ausf M - which was a variant of the Pz.Kpfw 38(t), not the Jagdpanzer 38(t). The Jgpz 38(t) was a NEW design based on components of the Pz.Kpfw 38(t). The chassis is wider than that of the original Czech design. The Bergepanzer variant was the ONLY one built in sufficient numbers (106, plus 64 conversions from existing Hetzers). Other than the command version, and handful of conversions to Flammpanzers, and the few carrying the 15cm sIG 33/2, everything else never made it past paper or prototype stage. The vehicle depicted in this kit never made it past a pair of prototypes built by BMM, but they were both open-top vehicles meant as personnel carriers and were only armed with MGs and was designated as the Vollkettenaufklärer 38(t) Katschen. I think what they meant to portray was the Jagdpanzer 38(d) with the 7.5cm PaK 39 L/48 which was to replace the Hetzer, but the war ended before production was scheduled to start.
Can u do the Trumpeter 1/35 Scale British Challenger 2 Enhanced Armour (01522)w/Eduard 36126 And what airbrush do you and what compressor pressure u set as I'm looking to improve my modeling skills based on what I see you do with yours thanks
Hey Andy... Let me Tell you the V in German is spelled like the F in the english word Forest.. i Think thats very Easy.. Great Channel Good Work.. go on ... Bye from Germany
Brief rundown of German pronunciation. V = F, W = V, O with two dots over it is the "u" in "fur'" excluding the "r". Too many people in videos pronounce Goebbels as Gur-bulls., It's more Guh-bulls. The two dots (an umlaut) stand in for the e following the o. This occurs with a number of vowels in German, "a" "o" and "u" . With "a" it flattens the sound making it sound like "ai" in English as in "Claire", with the "o" it sounds like "u" in "fur" with u it sounds like a very strange "ooo'" with the lips forming an "ooo" but the inside of the mouth trying to pronounce "ee". EU on the other hand is pronounced "oy". The German word for Devil is Teufel, pronounced Toy-fel. A lot of German names are composite words. A 19th Century composer was named "Waldteufel", which literally means "wood devil"
would really love it if you talked about the model instead of playing music. talk about its history, its development and how, when, and where it was used. it would make the videos a lot more enjoyable.
That would be a lot to do while trying to concentrate on a build. To save you the trouble of using a search engine, here: forum.axishistory.com//viewtopic.php?t=196172 www.achtungpanzer.com/jagdpanzer-38t-hetzer.htm And there's this: "The Vollkettenaufklaerer 38 was originally an effort by Auto-Union to create a tracked reconnaissance vehicle suitable for Eastern Front operations. Auto-Union’s prototypes with an open-topped compartment appeared in early 1944, but they were never pursued. Czech company BMM followed up with its own version of a scout vehicle based on a Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer chassis, with a mockup ready by September 1944. This example based on a modified 38(t) chassis featured a 7.5cm L/24 gun and was the only one built. Also known as the Gerat 564 Pz.Aufklwg.638/12. Most of these prototypes carried either a single or twin 20mm Flak 38."
Andy's got a hobby shop to run and a home life too. One of the enjoyable parts of a scale model build is doing your own research about the subject matter to see what to build and how to build it.
Hi. Vollkettenaufklärer means "fully tracked recon/scout" voll = fullKette = Chain / Tracks Ketten = Chains / TracksAufklärer = recon or scout The fully tracked Reconvehicle 38 (38 tells you it's based on the Jagdpanzer 38 (t) "Hetzer") And Jagdpanzer = "Hunting-Tank" = tank destroyer A tank for hunting other tanks. jagen = (to) hunt Panzer = tank And your pronunciation was very good, but not perfekt. :) You have pronounce "Vollketten" like "Wolken-ketten" The german V is in this case like the f by the word forest and you speak it Voll-Ketten because this are actually two words. ("Wolken" is the German word for clouds by the way. :D) The -ketten was perfectly fine. Aufklarer was perfectly fine pronounced as well. But the German language is mean and it's has to be Aufklärer with the ä and suddenly it have to be pronounced another way. "klarer" is actuly a german word and you got it on point. It comes from "klar" klar = clear klarer = clearer So an "Aufklärer" is somebody or something who make things clearer and the Germans like the Ä so they put in there to screw with everybody who don't know the Ä. xD But I have actually no good Idea how to explain the correct pronunciation of Ä just in written words ... it like a mix of A and E. (You can acutly type ae for ä if you don't have it on your keyboard. People from Germany did this too, if they don't have an Ä on the keyboard. This Works for ö = oe ,and ü = ue as well.) But there are cleary some videos on YT where Ä Ö Ü will be explained with the right pronunciation. And realy nice work on the models which you make. Astonishing paintworks. (And sorry if my english is not the best.) Greetings form Germany. :)
I have to Say im Very disappointed that you did not paint the interior half the gun was still black, When i do an open top i let the top off paint that then block off the open part then seal it up before painting it
hey Andy i just started modelling and i was wondering what you think of a company called "Revell" because they seem to be everywhere here were i live (germany). greetings :)
Shaw Rosowitsch well Revell is good for starting off as they are easy to build and don't cost as much, but when you think you're better try do drift away from that because there are much better models out there
Probably because Revell GmbH was founded in Bünde, West Germany, in 1956? Revell has a good reputation, although like many companies they have hits and misses. They focus a lot on car kits, especially 1/18 and 1/24 scale. While not as detailed as Dragon and newcomers like Takom and Meng, they generally release decent kits at a reasonable (at least in the U.S.) price. They also rebox older kits with new parts like Tamiya does. I am just about to finish their Panzerspähwagen P204(f) kit, which is actually an ICM kit from last year. Went together quite nicely.
