This will be a winner in india as we have lots of power cuts..almost every house has a inverter that runs on a bettery as a backup power source...this will work good. but the cost is super hight for a capacitor here. And it will be super good to run airccons small ones specially. Love the work you do Bro
Why is it gone? Seems that anything that comes out that can benefit this world and others is taken down, bought out, or killed. ??? Must be too good to share?
Yea its a cool idea and setup i give you that! You forget to mention cost for all of your builds These Capacitors are not Cheap! I do like the Inverter its a nice mod. sine wave for the cost of 189.99 on sale now. Charge controllers are typically around 30 - 40$. The Super caps you have 72 in parallel banks of 12 that have 6 caps for a total of 16.2 volts closer to 12v under load [72 at $9.60 for 691.20!!]. Your balance bars, you have 12 at 15.95 each for $191.40. Total Cost for your build for parts you have listed as of today is : $1105.58 not including the solar panels, copper wire or any extras.
You could skip the balance bars or wire 2 or 3 caps in parallel then to the bar would increase the risk of "unbalanced caps' a bit but reduce your build costs.
be great to see what you could find in a decent, honest, cheap, MPPT charge controller. They take advantage of the solar volts from 12-18V+ that PWM charge controllers discard as dumped heat! Caps have the ability to suck up the transient energy you get when the sun sticks its head out of the clouds. Get all the juice available in them gorgeous flexible solar panels you saved-up for.
What is the longevity of these super capacitors vs. lithium or AGM batteries? As in how many charge/discharge cycles before they degrade significantly?
You are wearing a metal wedding ring and literally casually skimming your hand across hundreds of charged supercapacitors. Don't do this, really really, don't do this. You can cauterize your finger in an instant if you happened to short out any of the many exposed terminals or traces. This is very dangerous with batteries, but supercapacitors are far far worse than that since they can discharge instantly.
Hewing - nope. Super caps can deliver a lot of power, but for the same energy they would cost a lot more than batteries. The caps he uses, if you buy 500!! cost about 8$ a piece. With 2.5V at 400F that is just around 350mWh. A cheap carbon-zinc AAA battery holds the same energy. And LiPos - the small LiPos are overpriced. 150 mAh cost about 8$ too - and holds over 500mAh. SuperCaps are great for certain specific tasks, but not so much for Bulk longterm energy storage.
Hewing Enterprise The Caps might be able to help battery-lifetime if the bike really can draw that much power - but normally e-bikes are limited to far less than the batteries can deliver.
Gary DePietro I would heavily assume that most bikes have batteries that are more than capable of delivering the current the motor can use. Eu is limited to just 250 W; Canada 500, and US 750. So only in the US with some bikes it might help - but it really depends on the bike, the motor, the batteries, and the motor-controller.
Not long. The smallest motors you see on e-bikes draw like 250w, which would only run for about 6 minutes on this system. Much better off using mostly lithium cells with a couple of supplemental capacitors.
Would be relevant only if he had 2 or more solar panels in series. One 12v solar panel to charge six 2.2v caps bundled together in series. Then 12 of these bundles wired together in parallel
would love to see the supper cap lithium battery merge. i think that might be a long lasting power supply. for us guys working in the sun hauling a gen around to work..
Beautiful overall design. One very small nit to pick: when connecting a bunch of parallel loads/sources you should use opposing taps (if positive is left, negative should be right), so the net current flow on each bar is theoretically the same across the bank. Your protection circuits may mitigate this but it still seems like you'd have some variance in current flow from left to right across the banks and you would definitely end up with hot spots near the terminals that would otherwise be less hot. Crude depiction of what I mean: (+) -----+------+------+------+------+ = = = = = +----+----+----+----+---- (-) Each bank now has the same length to travel across the bar, "n" on the (+) side, and "Ttl - n" on the (-) side. Result is no inherent hot spot.
Very true. As I see it, the purpose of this system not to replace batteries but to allow a small portable solar panel to provide its slow charge while pulling large current through it while also protecting any batteries you may connect to it from that same high surge. Also, the cap bank is going to be much lighter to carry than batteries to do the same. Finally as I understand, this application of portable power will frequently draw the bank down to near zero which will distroy a battery pack system. A system like this is why I'm considering to connect to my wind turbine (when I finally get everything to set it up). My generator is rated at 1700 watts but my grid-tie inverter is 1000 watts. For now, I'm only wanting to supplement my electric usage. I'm seeing that I will use more than I will produce but want to use everything I can make. I don't wnt to lose the other 700 watts when it running at peak sure to not being able to convert it. Storing the extra for A short time for when the wind slows down. A battery will stay at 0% most of the time thus giving it a very short life span. What I don't know yet is how large of a bank will I need. When the wind offs strong here, it last all day and often several days but I estimate it will make an average of 600 watts per hour over a 30-day period. More in the winter. From mid June to miss Aug there will be 1-2 days per week that the wind is almost nothing. The rest is the year, I'll smile every time I look up at it and see those blades spinning.
I would say you would be better of with a mix of mostly Li-Ions for the bulk and just a few Caps for the burst. 4x4 18650 3000 mAh + 6 Caps would offer a bigger energy storage and still be able to deliver the full 2 kW peak, but 'only' 600W continuous power.
ABaumstumpf I wondered the same. the Energy stored in this huge thing is very small😂 12*6*0;41Wh=30Wh which is the energy from 3 18650. A standard powerbank from neighbors kid stores more energy than this thing. LOL
I agree with you and I make it! Unfortunately, the biggest weakness of the Supercapacitor is their Fast Self Discharge, they will draw energy from Li-Ions too. So sad
Yeah, self-discharge can also be a problem, but that heavily depends on the uscase and the capacitors. Some "Supercaps" can discharge down to 50% in a matter of hours, if you plan on using them for long-term storage it is a bad idea. In combination with batteries they would discharge them too, but slower as you now have far fewer capacitors. There are also supercaps with low self-discharge, reaching 50% capacity after 3 Months only - but have fun with the price. 5V 1F => 8$ a piece - when bought in bulk of at least 500....... If it is only for 1-2 days backup then i think the discharge of most supercaps should be negligible.
@@ABaumstumpf Great info for low self discharge from Supercap, BTW I make it to survival conditions, for camping, and when I travel far away with car. Just charge the Battery Pack with 50W solar panel on the roof of the car. So I remove the Supercapacitor because their leaky current and just use it for burst energy need with solar panel independently, especially when crafting is needed with wood electric tools. And the Li-Ions pack serve as Power Backup for lighting, power bank for gadgets, and etc. Very neat but useful for Zombie Apocalypse you know 😅😅😅
Nice video, cool idea and all that, but by my estimate you have well over $1,100 invested in this rig even without any solar panels attached. Where are the advantages? I don't know what the capacitors weigh versus batteries, but physically they appear to take up quite a bit of real estate. What would the application for this be? Thanks.
Hi!! Sorry, one question but what if your appliance wasn't 2000w but 300/400w... Can the system keep up for a long time if the sun will keep on shining?
@@2487mpobor there are other means of collecting energy. What happens when My St Helens blows and covers the world in ash cloud. You need to think about other ways if harnessing energy. Forget batteries, we have polluted our planet enough without having a ton of batteries that are only good for a few years. I encourage everyone read Teslas last paper. You will thank me later. Good luck.
Nice. I use 2 16v 500F supercapacitors for 24v solar system. Capacitors are connected to my battery bank. It is very useful when you run devices that produce current surges over 0.2 seconds. Like my electric wood saw 800W and wood splitter 2800W start current = x4
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Hi, my name is PJI would like to find out. Where do you get the capacitors and where can I get the boards to match? I would like to try this. I'm very interested in this project. What is the charging voltage that you need to charge up the complete package? I want to build a massive one but I'll need to find out what kind of capacitor is confusing and where can I get the boards? It's not showing up on your website
why dont you replace that pwm charge controller with a simple DC to DC step down converter set at your desired voltage? that way you dont have to deal with the low voltage cut off as the DC to DC converter doesn't care what it has on the output. they are also the same efficiency or better as the current charge controller that you are running now
After 1,000 charges and discharges,the batteries are toast,these 400 farad super-caps run circles around any battery,not to mention the fact that these caps are rated for over 1 million charges and discharges in their lifetime.
THIS. I love the robustness of the solution. After the zombie apocalypse, all your 18650 cells are going to die, along with lead acid batteries and combustion generators. In the meantime, people aren't dying in lithium mines because we are obsessed with energy density.
Indeed... although I do like the idea of marrying the two technologies together... 18650 lithium for the bulk storage AND supercaps for the handling the peaks and saving the batteries from having to cope with them. Because of this, you can actually use smaller batteries because the capacitors will deal with those massive surge currents. Either way, supercapacitors have come a long way, and it's nice to see them starting crop up in more and more appliations.
@@John-gm8ty Easy. 1000 cloudy days - and it's more like 1000 half-discharges that will kill your batteries. A 100 full discharges at high temps even with a protection circuit will roast a lithium cell pack.
I don't understand the Tesla Maker site. Maybe it needs to be fixed, but at the time of this writing, it goes nowhere. I put in my email and clicked the [Submit] button and nothing. It has a thermometer bar that goes to 75%, but it has no indication of what that means. Also, the Laserhacker.com site is not what I would call friendly when looking for the parts you use. You state that you put the links to the parts in your description but I am looking for straight forward links and information. I am not on an easter egg hunt. Can you please make your sites more clear? Thanx.
I like the idea of integrating PV panels and caps but 84 Caps x 0.4 Watt-Hours = 33 Watt-Hours Say this assembly weighs a kilogram then we have 30 Watt-Hours stored per kilo in something that can be charged, and discharged, quickly. But at a cost of $700 this particular super-capacitor route for bulk energy storage has an aquisition cost of over $20 per Watt-Hour or over $20,000 per kWH. " $20k to store something that costs 20 cents from the grid!!! " is one way of looking at this... For comparison, the chemical energy stored in just 1 litre of petrol or diesel (very roughly 1 kg) is around 10 kWH. Rather than spend on super-caps, the same $20k would buy a 1kW generator for $2k and leave $18k for fuel. For argument's sake let's say you buy 15,000 litres (I am in the UK) and its only 20% efficient to generate: You would get 20% of 15,000 litres x 10 kWatt-hours / litre = 30,000 kWh...i.e. nearly four years of continuous generation at 1kW. No doubting that a smaller capacitor bank would ease the startup load of course, and therefore make the 1KW generator drive heavier tools for short periods.
Doing a rough calculation, at .4 watt-hours per cap it'd take 10 to run a 1400 watt circular saw for 10 seconds, with a recharge time of 2 minutes on a 120 watt panel, which sounds about right. A 12v/9ah sealed lead acid battery (SLA) would last 1 hour at equivalent use, or 5 minutes continuous use, whereas it'd take 60 caps to run the saw continuously for 1 minute, with a 12 minute recharge time, so simply adding that SLA to this system would allow the tool to be used for much longer periods at a time without having to buy a lot of expensive capacitors and wait a long time between tool uses. It would also 'waste' less of the panel's output because the SLA can store 1 hour's worth of energy, relative to a puny 10 seconds with 10 caps, or a still paltry 2 minutes with an impractical 60 caps. That way, if the saw isn't used for 1 hour there will be enough energy stored to double the amount of time it can be used for in the next hour, energy which would otherwise have gone to waste, and the saw could be used for much longer periods at a time. I feel that this 'best of both worlds' is a better approach than the purely capacitor based one which most seem to take; I do understand the want to only use caps as a demonstration of their potential, but because batteries and capacitors both have their ups and downs, ie Batteries store Much more Energy and Capacitors deliver Much more Power, I think it's best to show how capacitors can complement and enhance each other. Until capacitors have massively increased capacity they simply cannot compete with batteries in energy storage, so combining both will be better in most applications until they do, which may be a long time yet, and even then their physical size may still be excessive for many applications. To summarise, supercapacitors and batteries are a marriage made in heaven, and one which should be utilized and investigated much more than it is, rather than the trend of simply replacing batteries with capacitors.
This system would work well for a construction trailer. Install the solar cells on the roof and the rest inside. There have been soooo many days where I could have used this solution.
Thank you for the content. The one thing I'm failing to understand is the economics of the supercapacitors in use. At approximately USD$15 per capacitor then number of capacitors used in this system would equate to over USD$1000 which would buy a good quality LifePo4 100ah battery with high discharge rates. Cheers
Something i don't see anything planning for is service/maintenance. When (not if) but when one of the caps either die or dry out, So i will ask you as i ask other solar enthusiasts. How would you know which one is not working? How will one broken cap effect the system? (maybe drain the rest?) Did you calculate any short-circuit effects to ensure safety of the equipment (fuse dimension)
To solve the issue of the charge controller not powering up at low voltage, simply install a buck-boost converter between the capacitor bank and the controller. This will boost the low DC voltage to a preset voltage that the controller can use to turn on and thus accept the solar input without having to charge the capacity bank first.
I'm sure you're probably aware of this, but you're losing a ton of capacitance by stacking the caps in series. Calculating capacitance in series isn't the same as parallel (where you would simply take the total sum). In series, you get 1/Ctotal = 1/C1 + 1/C2 + ... + 1/Cn.... Your one string of 6 400F super caps, to get to 12V, leaves you with only 66.67F, when you paid for 2,400F. Your whole bank, if all in parallel, would contain 28,800F of available capacitance. With your series/parallel setup, you have 800F. Just saying... Big fan, keep making videos, but daaamn that seems like a ton of wasted money for some lightweight high current-discharge
If he put all the capacitors in parallel, he would be restricted on voltage, because they're rated at 2.7V. By stacking 6 in series, each bank of 6 can take 16.2V, which is exactly what his max charged voltage was. If he wanted more capacitance out of the same amount of capacitors, he'd also have to drop the amount of voltage stored.
Right, but by stacking them, he loses the vast majority of the otherwise-available capacitance in his bank. Kind of hurts to only get 3% of the capacitance he paid for due to his configuration. That's the only point I was trying to make. Other than discharge cycle count and simplicity in the charging system, I don't see how this has any advantage over a lithium battery setup. Cost certainly isn't lower here, either.
Except it's not- at least in terms of volume, cost, and alternative options. the available capacitance of this cap bank is less than 3% of the total additive capacitance. When you consider that each cap costs close to $10, you can see really quickly that a lithium bank would have done a lot more in a smaller package for less money.
Fair enough, but I live off grid with a solar input of 270 w/h in perfect conditions. I don't use much power, so the storage is the sticker for me. I have done experiments with Li/Ion batts in an series/parallel config that have expressed a longer runtime (storage capacity)... And I am just looking at getting away from deep cycle lead/acid batts.
Add a few switches in place of plugs to save wear and tear. This is an excellent idea. With consistant sun or wind, capacitors could replace expensive batteries and their hassle all together.
Great video. I'm really just getting inspiration for a full solution I was planning out.. to integrate Grid Power, Solar and Gas Generator into one. Grid/Solar/Generator --> Capacitor Bank (12v @ 10ah) --> Charge Controller --> Battery Bank (35kwh) --> Capacitor Bank (12v @ 1kAh) --> Inverter --> Appliance(s). This greatly simplifies the system, and integrates them all together, extending life and etc. A thought I had though was to put all the lights on one breaker and power them with DC current (skipping the inverter) to improve efficiency. Haven't found much on this and it's not the common setup I know.
These are going to be useful in the EV field it takes less energy to maintain a moving object than it does to increase motion from 0. I like the label Hybrid you referred to! Re gen braking and re charging while using the same energy stored
Thanks for sharing this even tho you could be a greedy and not... Knowledge is power and even if you do share there is still plenty of room to develop this and sell your own.. I'm sure you could post a link in this video and sell this system already to people who don't want to or don't have time to build it... If you want to let me know I'll help you market it and promote it and even build you a website for sales if needed I'm sure you have one on Lazer hacker I'm gonna go explore your page now.. anyways thanks again for your time effort and knowledge keep sharing the love!
Well u can just buy a Petrol Generator to do the job which cost about the same as Capacitor bank but where is the fun of it? This is DIY spirit we enjoy. Kudos bro, U have done a good job
And then you have the stink and the noise of the generator running to consider. ;-) And you should never run a gas generator inside a closed room. :-0 Which you can do with one of these. :-) Having an inverter and battery proved itself during and after Hurricane Irma. Daytime use of a generator is okay but at night, you want some quiet time. After a week of listening to a generator run, it gets to you. Now think about how I felt after Andrew where both work ( 12on/12off ) and home were on generators for 5 straight weeks. Generator would get shut down at home from 2200 to 0400 the next morning. One to save fuel and two, so there was some peace and quiet. If I was pulling the night shift at work, it meant the only quiet time was the 8 mile drive to and from. With Irma, inverter, and 1 battery, I could have two hours of freezer or refrigerator, fan, TV, lights running on the one battery alone and if the truck was left idling, it could run all night. Truck at idle was not audible in the house unless you listened very carefully.
shame you can't buy or build your own buck inverter to generate your portable grid power supply, they would be very efficient and make use of 90% of the energy from the super capacitors. Just thinking when the voltage gets low and your current inverter probably shuts off at 7 volts. there is still plenty of energy in the super capacitors and since they don't mind being discharged to 0 volts, it makes sense to use something that will work right down to the lowest voltage.
Its not. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W9hiD-TJwS0.html Well over $10k in supercaps. Or if you want to go with an actual batteries, XS Power makes a $3000 Lithium car battery.
I have a solar inverter and 4 batteries in series (48volt). The maximum charging voltage is 54volt. I am thinking of placing 20 2.7 volt 400 Farad capacitors in series (54volt) and then in parallel to the batteries. Is it possible to use Capacitors without a balancer? I would like to know your opinion. Thank you.
Hi - hey perhaps this has come up already, but isn't half the energy used to charge capacitors lost simply in the process of charging them? According to: hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/capeng2.html the battery energy to charge the caps is QV but only 1/2 QV is stored in the cap, the other half is lost in the circuit resistance. So isn't this an inefficient way of storing energy from solar cells, since half is lost at the get go?
I am betting that these small yellow SC's are nor nearly 400F. Every time I test one of these "to good to be true" caps (very lightweight and small) with several 100's of Farads printed on them (mostly 500F: so I can't speak for these 400F units, but I bet...). I don't know exactly why they do this, but the caps labeled 500F actually measured as only around 78F. NOW, six of these in series will give the total C of, 78F/6 = 13F @ 16.2V !! ALSO, my lower rated SC's (supercapacitors) of 10's of Farads, AND my larger SC's over 1000F's (like my 2600F and 3000F SC's) measured dead on!! BTW: I have never seen a "FARAD meter", so, to measure the capacitance of these monsters, I used the relationship: i(t)=C dv/dt....solving for "C" and switching to 'delta' notation, for example "DELTA V" rather than differential's "dv/dt" which is valid since the changes in v and t used in measurement are relatively "large" in this case. The actual formula (solved for C) is: C=IT/V. This yields an accurate 'C' value for a supercapacitor. ONE MORE THING: When using this formula: the current flowing through the cap must be --constant--. I used a simple PCB programmable PSU for a few dollars on ebay. I am curious: What size solar panel(s) are you using (V, I ,W)?
Lots of negative comments because You GUYIS know better ?? ore are you just sitting with your fingers in your ass, and make negative comments come one people you are better, do something your self and let us comment on THAT )(/&%€#"!......Caps are good for something yes and li-ion are good fore something else everyone knows that.....but by pushing the limits you are getting better to anderstand whats walk and whats not, and only by doing that "you" are getting better and better and are developing your self.... and...sherring the result with others are a great way to make better things faster.....so keep the good spirit and make some big SPARKS and let us enjoy the video......Thanks for Sherring Pall you are come a long way......If you are going to make something your self like SOLARCONVERTER please just jump over those 12V panels go fore something with high Volt like 600V and lots off Amps...ore so because you get lot better performance and less current and loses.......and when we are making a supercap setup.... go for something like at least 48V bloks and serie them up to 96V ore 192V ore ore even 48V*5 = 240V just ( 240/2.5=96 ) ore (240/2.7=89) you are getting much better performance and less loses in the converter and cables and a unbelievable long lifespand not just those 500-2000 cycles but maybe the rest of your life performance....and maybe make the supercar yourself .....Just make a big "BLOCK" Bigger better :-)......and when you are finish with that ....Make a Badass video and let them Comment on ...THAT.......just call me .....and I'll by one for my solar car project with 2KW solarpanels on......And that SOLARCONVERTER go for MPPT setup also better performance, The MIDTNIGHT Solar converter company USA... are one the right track....so higher Volt less heat and less AMP LESS cupper and so on and Passive cooling NO Fan please they are nosy and use the power you are producing to "EFFECIENTCY" are the key word...Best luck to you, and lot of sparks. Jørgen Thomsen Denmark DK .....Thumps UP
Exciting video cuzz... Quite possibly the(or one of) crucial missing link(s) to the perfect system or at least a major component of it... really I'm jazzed about your particular application From 7:04 ...maybe a low V relay ...or old ignition switch... but don't lose the key you'll have to hotwire it ! :^ )
yeah but it's so compact, maybe it will last enough. a small li-po battery with this can replace a huge size battery for short time heavy load aplications .
Love the idea but with 12 banks of caps that system + inverter, solar panel, etc… is what? $800 or so? For that just grab a 2.4kwh LFP battery and the inverter and your in the same ball park price wise with a smaller footprint. You could even do a combo inverter/MPPT controller for around $300 + Battery and be in the same price range with a much higher solar input and actual storage.
I have an idea that I'm going to try. I have a 160V capacitor bank that I got when Maxwell liquidated after being bought out by Tesla and I am loathe to take it apart. I want to use it as it is. I only have a couple of solar panels - a 100W, 18V and one of your 10W panels that came with the USB LED lamps (awesome). So what I'm going to use for my little generator is the 18V panel, the 160V capacitor bank, as it is, and I have 40 18650 batteries SOO - I was trying to figure out how I was going to get enough voltage to charge the capacitor bank when it hit me - I have 40 3.7V batteries! Duh! SOOO , Instead of just using the batteries for power, I'm going to use some of the batteries to "boost" the 18V from the solar panel up to 90V via the battery bank so I can power the capacitor bank with that. Sort of like your hybrid boost pack. And I'm not going to use a charge controller. PFFFFT! I'm sick of looking at the damn things and trying to figure them out. And now they've caved to corporate interests and are trying to push all of that "positive ground" crap in everybody's face and nobody knows what's going on. I have enough cells to underdrive the whole thing so they can stick their charge controllers where the sun don't shine. I'm not even going to go there. I'm just going to run everything in an "analog" straight line from the solar panel and batteries through the capacitors and straight to the load with nothing but some one-way "valves" and a timed load on the battery bank for sewer management. Rather than anticipating problems, I'm just going to wait and see what problems, if any, arise. But I am going to attache little voltage meters to each battery pack. I'm not concerned about the capacitors - I haven't touched them. They're assembled and tested and "weird" environments is where they like to live so...I think they'll be happy but, anyway, I'll start them at 90V and see what happens. I'm going to hook up the capacitor bank directly to the solar panel first, just to see what it can do with its 18 - 20V but I don't expect it will be very happy with that sort of wussy environment and I don't want them too..."hungry" although, I'd like to build them a "capacitor" case and see if they'll interact with the air...they might need a bit of hunger to respond measurably...we'll see... BTW, I'm putting this here because you're off doing other things and this vid is 5 years old so, only other die-hard explorers will ever see it and maybe they'll have some better ideas about how to get a hundred volts out of a hundred WATT solar panel. It's not going to be powering an air conditioner or freezer or anything.
An inverter with a wider input range could give you a bit more effective energy storage. 12 in parallel of 6 in series provides 800 F and 16.2 V, which theoretically gives you 29.2 Whr of storage. If your inverter drops out at say 10.5 Volts, however, your effective storage is 16.9 Whr. If the inverter could work down to say 8.5 Volts, your effective storage would be 21.1 Whr. If the inverter would work down to 6.5 Volts, the effective storage would be 24.5 Whr. Or, it'd probably be more practical to design the inverter to have a higher maximum voltage instead of a lower minimum voltage. You might combine your super caps for 200 F at 32.4 Volts, for example, and design an inverter to work from 32.4 Volts (with some safety margin) down to 10.5 Volts. That'd give you an effective storage of 26.1 Whr. Then again, you're right, and you're better off to go to a hybrid system and use lithium cells for the storage and the super caps for the surge current.
The problem with these types of capacitors is electrical leakage which is usually around 15% capacitance loss. Enphase energy which makes the best micro solar inverters on the market switched to thin film capacitors which have a 98.9% retention against electrical leakage. Thin film capacitors would also reduce your capacitor bank sizeby 50%.
Bro! This is awesome! Thanks so much for posting this. So I have a trolley... Yupp. A trolley! I'd like to power up a TV, fridge, home theater system and huge bass. With possible exterior speakers and powered speakers for veterans day parades etc. I would love some help. Any info would be greatly appreciated. When you're in Houston I'd love to show you around town in it for your assistance. I'm not sure how else to reach you so I'm posting here. Thanks so much! I wish you good health and peace in these troubled times. God bless 🙏 stay positive 😊. Your vet friend -Domdada
Do you have a balance board that will work with the Maxwell D Cell 350F 2.7VDC capacitor? I would like to use them along with a balance board to accommodate the different connector arrangement. Thank you
Haven't you build spot welder from super kondensators? I'm just wondering for balancing voltage while charging?? And offcourse discharging with high current???
Price? No doubt the pricing will be the killer here? Caps and boards are very expensive? You have a couple hundred to $1000's in Caps? Makes no sense calling it a hack? Actually the idea makes no sense to me? 18650 will beat this anyday of the week?
I'm vary mechanically inclined not so much with the sparky things though . I'm trying to build a solar generator but I dont want to use batteries, supercaps are supposed to be cheaper and charge faster but I cant find anything that will explain the work comparince of a battery to a supercap in a way I can understand it . So if youcould give some kind of explanation of how many 2.7v 3000f capacitors would I need to run a 120v 15a circular saw for 15 min or if it even could . Thank you for your time I hope to hear from you . And do you make these cap protection boards for supercaps of 3000 farads ?
Running all of those capacitors through an inverter and then out at 120 volts isn't very efficient. A lot of devices actually change your 120 AC back to DC. Running a fluorescent light when you could be running LED lights is also wasting energy. Most LED bulbs that run on 120 Volts AC, have a circuit in them to convert the AC to DC which is a huge voltage drop right there. Why not run your capacitor bank at 120-130 volts DC? You lose capacitance but you don't lose a large amount of power by converting the lower voltage to a higher AC voltage.
You talked about the inverter but you didn't mention who made it or what it's total capacity was. Your "boost pack" in a hybrid setup for a practical system sounds like a better idea. Using the super caps for the initial surge for high current motor startup is actually a great idea. As for your copper rod setup. Take a look at the 1 or 2 ought wire going into your inverter. There's a reason why this wire is larger than the 10 gauge wire in your copper rods. One doesn't get something for nothing. For the 10 or 15 running amps that you are drawing from your inverter, you are drawing MANY more DC amps from your super caps and / or battery. In the beginning days of inverter technology, it used to be a 10 : 1 ratio. You draw 1 amp from the inverter, you draw 10 amps from the battery. When you read specs like "85% efficiency" on inverter boxes, this does NOT mean that you draw 1 amp out, you put 1.15 amps in. If it did, you wouldn't have wire feeding your inverter that could wear your wedding ring. The most accurate way to know for sure would be to get a clamp on amp meter with a DC range over 200 amps. Connect your inverter to a known high current DC power source like your car battery with your engine RUNNING, clamp the meter on the appropriate power cable, turn on the inverter and load it with a known value like your skill saw and read the meter. This will tell you why you need something larger than 10 gauge wire for your interconnections.
I wonder whether the inverter gets demage or not. because Super Cap module is 16 voltage, Probably Input Voltage range limit is under 15 voltage.. the inverter is ok?
Can you make some schematic of this ballancer board ?(its look very simple compare to what im use) I have similar setup but i use Maxwell 3000F in 48V setup but orginal ballancers are "bad" and cant ballance high currents. I also burn fev of them by accident.
Why are you wasting your money on this? Supercapacitors have notoriously low energy density when compared even with Lead Acid batteries, let alone Lithium- based ones. They're much more expensive per Watt, too. For the same money, you could build a high capacity bank of LFP cells (for safety and much better durability, albeit at lower charge density, than Li-Ion cells), in a smaller volume, and still have the same instantaneous current capability as that bank of capacitors. Remember that supercapacitors do have a design life, both in terms of number of charge/discharge cycles and in years of use. Also, be aware that there are noticeable differences in capacitance across even the same batch of. capacitors. Many Chinese supercapacitors have far less than the claimed capacitance, and the variation across a batch will also be greater. (Some new supercaps have been measured with less than half the capacitance of the figure stated on the label.) What this means, even if the devices are from reputable manufacturers, is that in a series-connected bank of capacitors which become subjected to deep discharge (maybe less. than 70 or 80% of the expected bank capacity) at least one cell will become reverse-charged. Supercapacitors do not tolerate that, and they become damaged, thus reducing their capacitance further. This is repeated until the affected capacitors fail. This can happen in a surprisingly short time of use, and certainly after far fewer than the expected number of discharge cycles. Supercapacitors also have a maximum current rating, above which internal damage will occur.
Nope. The first of your videos I watched you quoted 8 dollars, it cost for each capacitor. Well, they cost 43 dollars then, and now upwards of 4o dollars. No way this worth doing.
pls be more gentle when unfurling your expensive portable solar panel. yes they're flexible but nowhere do they ever say robust. micro cracks, tiny wire metal fatigue, and don't ever stand on them! and none have ever been duty cycled for flex repetitions. they are not biceps. its not a snow carpet -its more of a sea monkey. better to mount them on a stiff plastic grid material. try never to flex them. and let them breathe! they overheat when glued down!
Ild like to build a version using my lithium ion ebike battery. Ive already got a little 1000W generator I wish I could tote for long 200 mile trips. A hybrid battery system charging while also dischargine would be ideal.....with all kinds of ideas for doing other things at camp site.
I would seriously consider putting a cover, perhaps clear plexiglass, over all those terminals......it'd be one hell of a spectacular explosion if you drop that screwdriver!
😁😀😍You might like Jehugarcia another youtuber he replaces the volt controller on electric car and made long distance record 750miles on one charge...I will mention both of you are ahead of the curve
Anyone have a working link to the super capacitors use in this video? Some mentioned they are sold for $8.00 each. I have not seen them sold for less than 12 TO 14 EACH. Also the protection boards he said he sells on his web page that link is also broken.
FYI, this controller powers from the panel side. I have one. It works pretty well. www.banggood.com/MPT-7210A-Aluminum-Alloy-MPPT-Solar-Panel-Charge-Controller-with-LCD-Display-p-1056572.html?rmmds=search
Can run it at night too the solar panels with the white light generation unit I got. I got the Hector pack a high power alternators pack on caps super boy😆.👍 for the wind turbines industry and pumps or the fisheries but it could be applied to the hole lot as a 200kv needs a tuck the 200kv dc Hector is 1/4 the old one on a ute on the construction site ??????
lasersaber - I used the same inverter in my solar generator build series ( ru-vid.com/group/PLIorqrLdxMKZV464fFUflegLuuvLEyMrU ) which is using a AGM deep cycle battery bank via high current quick connects. Do you feel one high capacity capacitor (like those used in car audio) wired in parallel would be beneficial for surge currents? Thanks for any insights, and appreciate the video!
People need to understand that caps are not a replacement for batteries when one needs prolonged energy supply since caps discharge much faster than batteries because they simply don't store the same energy density as, say, lithium batteries feeding an inverter. Caps are GREAT for supplementing lithiums and lead acids by providing the initial surge current, therefore taking quite a bit of load off the batteries during initial load surges.
