burn time is a function of wood surface area exposed to air. Pile your logs so that there is as little surface area exposed as possible. Pull your coals to the front, and then load your wood east west. That way only one log catches fire at a time. Then each log in sequence will burn from front to back.
I am pretty sure this stove is designed to run loading north south, i have experimented a little bit with east west, but not enough to tell if it made a difference one way or another
Stove top or flue thermometers are a good tool to fine tune your burn. You would probably have a longer more efficient burn of your turned the air down sooner like 15-30 min after reloading.
Thanks! I cleaned the glass before I shot the video. I don't really have any great tips. I think a lot of it comes down to the stove design. Smoldering fires will make it black, so burning seasoned wood should help, as well as letting the fire rip for awhile after refilling the firebox to quickly get a good hot flame established.
If this stove is in a corner installation like i have here it can go like 5" or so away from the wall. Pacific Energy's website has a document showing the clearances. We primarily just run the wood stove along with a propane fireplace in a very drafty room at the far end of the house. We only ran our furnace a few times this past winter. I burn a mix of hardwoods. Maple, ash, birch, oak, black cherry. Not sure what i was burning in this video.
That viewing window looks nice. If you're really serious, lose the glass! It's a maintenance nightmare and prone to air leaks. You'll be wondering why your air control has little effect after a year or two. Bolt 1/4" steel plate inside the cast iron door frame. Would be nice to weld it in, but cast iron is tricky to weld at best. To do this, the raised areas inside the frame has to be ground off. The consumer models like this don't have the staying power needed for long term hard use. Also add outside air kit!
I hear what you're saying but to us removing the window would defeat one of the main reasons we bought this beautiful stove. It would be interesting to see a performance difference of outside air intake
Great choice of wood stove. The alderlea stoves are fantastic. Great workhorses for applications requiring more significant BTU demands of 3-5 reloads per 24 hours. Cast jacket should produce softer radiation and better direct-to-air heating.
Hey Korey any issues burning 20" logs? I have a T6 on order and will have to purchase cut and split firewood to burn this winter. So far I can only find 16" or 20" logs in my area and the 20" are a better value.
Thanks. Good question! I had heard it's good to leave a bit of air space, but mostly I think it's just the stingy part of me that feels like adding more wood is just going to make it burn hotter and not last longer lol
Hey, where do you put the air control at to heat your house, do you set it in the middle? And do you just put it on low when you want it to go over night ? How big is your house ? Is your house drafty?
We have a small 1900s farm house. Its a small footprint but has 3 stories above ground and tall ceilings and open staircases. I have been working at air sealing/insulating but it still has some very drafty sections that i need to fix. During the day typically we run the stove with the damper all the way closed, if the house gets cool we tend to just open the damper full blast until it gets toasty, then dial it back to fullly closed. Also i find after restocking the fire it seems to help to leave the air wide open for a few minutes. At night we always run it fully closed so that there is a nice bed of coals in the morning. So basically we mostly run wide open for brief stints and fully closed. On colder days you can put lots of logs in the firebox for more heat, on milder days you can go with less. Honestly, it's a very easy stove to operate and isnt picky with how you run it. What I described isn't the only way to do it, it's just the rut we fell into this mild winter. This was our first winter with this stove.
@@koreyfreemanofficial Okay sounds good. I think that’s what I am doing wrong. I’m not burning hot enough. But I know the book says. If anything is glowing red. That’s a sign of a overfired, and my stove never gets like that. I’m guessing you can burn it hot as long it doesn’t glow red. I had my stove for 2 years and I’m now getting used to it now. Thank you for getting back to me
@@itsyurb0ylayy4 what issue are you having? Not enough heat output? I noticed a huge difference in heat output moving from wood that was still pretty green to more seasoned wood. Seasoned wood burns so much hotter. Ideally season your wood for 12+ months. Beyond having dry wood, try to get the fire nice and hot initially. FILL the firebox up, and leave the damper wide open and let it rip until your house reaches the temperature you want it. At that point you can throttle back the air, and I think you will find that the heat output is much better after you have that great bed of hot coals. Don't be shy with the amount of wood you load, and letting her get really hot before dialling it back. Stoves are made to get hot. It seems to me that if you try to be stingy with the wood and air supply the efficiency of the stove drops off a cliff. Get it hot, then let it coast.
@@koreyfreemanofficial the issue what I was having was, that I was in a group with they was helping me, when and they was telling me. Wait till the flue temperature is 300, then turn it down, once the flue temperature is 350 turn it down again, and once again when it gets to 350 but this time only 25 percent, and once I started doing that, it will put out the heat, but it will raise the temperature of the house 1 degrees per hour. Mine you the stove is in the basement. But I watched your video 5 times, so I can take the details more properly. And I noticed you wasn’t getting a lot left. And you that’s one of the problems that I was having, I will have large coals . I will rake them to the front.. but I been doing what you did for two days and I see the difference already.. I don’t get a large Coal bed. And I also think I wasn’t letting the wood to burn its full y Cycle. I think I was having this problem before, because I wasn’t getting the stove out enough I think I was scared that I will damage my stove, a lot of people on Facebook been saying keep the stove temperature 650. I noticed when I keep the air control in the middle of the that’s when it cranks out the heat but this is when the stove is in the 700-750. The dealer told me the stove can handle it but only for a hour tho, but when the stove is at those temperatures nothing is glowing red, but if anything is glowing I turn it down lil, till the red glowing goes away. But I noticed the book doesn’t have a overfired temperature. All it says is if anything is glowing red that’s a sign of a overfired. But I called pacific energy and they even told me the the stove can handle it just check your stove to see if there’s any damage every couple of months.
Wow dude you spend way to much time on this! #1learn you're stove better #2good dry hardwood is yer best friend and if you have softwood mix it in#3dont be afriad to split wood smaller,as this will avoid lag time.nothing worse than three big hunks hiss and sputter for forty minutes while you're kids &you shiver. Above all lose the wood behind your stove(omg)and don't replace it with wonder board.(tile backer) those white specks in it are styrofoam,half of napalm.after 50 years of heating with wood with various types of stoves I'd liketo think I know what I'm talkin about.there is nothing worse than standing on frozen ground at 3am in sleet hearing your kids cry and seeing the fire department hose your house down.has not happened to me , don't let it happen to you may yer wood be dry and yer pipes be clean,split wood not atoms!
Smaller splits is something I am slowly adapting to in my brain! This stove has very tight clearances and was installed by a WETT certified installer. It's within code. Thanks for the comment!
