Those are overload springs. There's definitely supposed to be some gap in them (maybe not that much, I suspect the drop block has done something), and they're only supposed to be actually doing something when there's such a big load that the main springs sag into contact with them. I've gotta imagine your rear end is insanely stiff at this point. I've seen it recommended to use one of these clamps in front of the axle to reduce hop, but I think it binds if you do both. As for the WHY you were getting hop, that big drop block between the axle tube and the springs is adding a big ol' lever that magnifies the twisting your axle wants to do when it accelerates.
@@dopezamora No problem. Nice ride by the way. I've been doing a lot of reading on this since my beater tuck likes to hop even with mild acceleration. New rear shocks took out a lot of the hop (old ones were pretty blown), but I think I might slap front clamps on as well.
Jase Poag thanks man. yea definitely try some clamps and see how you like them. they definitely helped on mine, although the ride did get a little rougher as well. i’m getting a 3 link with coilovers done at the moment so the hop should completely be gone now and ride a lot smoother
Those belltech twin tube shocks suck. I recommend getting mono tube shocks. I went from belltech to bilstein and they made a huge difference. Since your truck is lowered much more than mine you’re going to have to get shorter shocks. Ridetech/fox, qa1, Viking all have some great mono tube adjustable shocks in all kinds of lengths also.
Hey brotha new to watching keep up on the build but the leaf clamps are supposed to be in the front of the axle, one 3-4 inches in the front of the axle and the other 4-5 more inches further forward you could add 1 more but 2 should be ok for a 3 inch drop.
so does clamping the leaf springs help with the shaking ness of the truck? cause mine shakes bad, and i've already got all tires balances and it still shakes?
Did this to my truck stick height. It cured the wheel hop but now it literally hops over bumps sideways lmfao. So I took the clamps off the front and just put them on the back
You put those clamps on with the weight of the vehicle on the ground. And just in front of the axel about 6 inches. Did this on my slammed Ranger, way better.
I just finish doing this to mine but the threads got stripped and the nuts came loose, is there a better brand that could handle more tension/pressure?
@@dopezamora they weren't cross threaded bro it's basically what I do at work lol just bolting up flanges and shit I tightened it down good and tq them to spec and when I went to test them out it's when the nut stripped the bolt
Alex perez bro mine does 1 then 2 it’s weird haha. like sometimes it starts with 1 but then they both do it. idk. but i can do donuts with no problem too
Did you ever have any problems with these clamps bro? Looking to do this to mine because it hops real bad. I see you went with 3” clamps, could you have done the 2.5”?
Jose Caballero no i had no problems. it will make your ride a noticeably amount stiffer tho. no bro you need 3” clamps, the 2.5” wouldn’t be wide enough
dopezamora thanks for the info man I ended up getting the right clamps but I only did the front of the leaf springs. Should I do the back as well like you did?
Suelo_ Abuelo na man i took a look at my boy’s stock sierra and they were nothing like that. maybe separated very little but nothing like mine. only reason i didnt do traction bars is cause they would sit super low. but i’m getting rid of the leaf springs now and doing a 3 link with coilovers
dopezamora they make trac bars that come up from the axle and bolt to the back end of the frame/bumper. Never seen someone with them though. This just seemed a little drastic to me, taking away all suspension in the rear. Truck looks sweet though
Good luck with that ur jack sucks to so do your wheels and im not even gena finish the video and assume your truck sucks to o and your impact gun sucks and your supposed to do that on the ground not jacked up but I didn't finish vid so I'm just assuming by the music in the background
Hey just fyi... Most people put them on facing down because they use an air wrench too tighten them up. So what they do is they put on facing down and then they take a cut off tool and cut the bolt off once it's on, just a millimeter above the nut so that way the only thing really exposed is the nut. Then if you have to ever take them off and put them back on etc you have to have a way to compress it down to tight enough to get them back on with the nut tight so you use a new one that's not been cut you put it about say 8 in back compress your springs put your one on that you've cut tighten it up remove the new one in your back to where you were or if you have to adjust them or anything but they'll put them down for the purpose of using an air wrench just makes it easier that's all... be sure and cut them though if you have them pointing up you don't want this two studs slamming into the bed of your truck or the frame or anything if you get a good bump and bottom out cuz those two studs will punch a hole through a truck bed or a frame rail or kind of twerk here rear axle if you do it just right so remember go back and cut those things off flush where just a nuts the only thing sticking up. I mean it's not like you're ever going to remove them and if you do you probably not going to put them back on if you do just get a new one or some type of strong clamp or something too compress them all you have to do. I hope that helps I just need to meet people do it in a few that didn't cut the studs and they got free drain holes out of it.
