Want nice handles? hoffmanblacksmithing.com Like what you see? Want more? Visit us at.. www.coalcracke... / danwowak / coalcrackerbushcraft and as always.... Stay in the Woods, Dan
There are literally hundreds of videos of people replacing axe handles. But Dan could have a video on making oatmeal make it sound interesting. He's a great instructor. Also, look for a video called "An Ax to Grind" by Adirondack Wilderness. All the best.
This is one of my favorite videos of yours, Dan. I so much appreciate you helping to maintain past practices and skills that seem to be disappearing. Great channel!
Well that's the same way I've always put my handles on even the ones I made myself but you had a guy's name there that makes handles, Liam Huffman, I wish you had to put a link to his site but I'll find it. Thanks so much for showing these kids how to do this I love it when you do things like this to show them how. You also bring some of my knowledge back to the front of my head and the reason I say that is I'm 71 years old and I'm starting to lose some of what I know. The saying goes if you don't use it you'll lose it and that's the God's honest truth believe me. Thanks again for the video Dan excellent job. Stay vigilant!
I'm so glad you gave Liam Hoffman an endorsement. He is amazing. I have 3 of his axes. All are fantastic tools. I've got a handle too, to put on my dad's old axe. Thanks for another great video.
Good call Dan, on using the dirt as a “Heat Sink”, that was priceless. Great tips on hanging an Axe handle, a wooden mallet or dead blow mallet, very useful tools. Sharpening, I start very similar, but end with 2,000 grit sandpaper and strop. And yep a sharp tool is a useful tool. God Speed, and enjoy the outdoors,,,,,,, Semper Fi,,,
Such a great video! I liked and saved this video 9 hour's ago because I was at work because I knew it was going to be a good one! Well actually I save them all, Dan the man knows his stuff and there always awesome!! Nice axe handles will keep him in mind when needed. Another awesome video as always brother 👍 💪
One of my favorite hobbies is to visit antique shops and flea markets looking for old, unloved axes and hatchets. Strike a deal, bring them home and give them some tlc and a new handle if needed. I've been getting my handles from "House Handle Company". They have many options for the handles (lacquered, unlacquered, handpicked, etc.) I opt for the handpicked un-varnished handles for my projects. One thing you didn't mention in your video that might be worth taking note of. Not that all axes have hardened polls, but some do if they are what might be considered a Carpenter's axe or shingling hatchet. Using fire on these types of axes will damage the heat treat on the hardened poll. This may or may not be an issue depending on how the axe is to be used. I see lot's of people gluing the wood wedges during installation and personally, I avoid doing so. The reason I don't is that wood handles over time will loosen up due to a number of factors and the head will loosen. When that happens I remove the wood wedge, make a new thicker wedge and drive it home which re-tightens the head to handle fit. If you glue your wedges in place, removal is much more difficult if not impossible without drilling it out. That said some properly placed step wedges could alleviate the problem, but I try to avoid using those as well. I've created and replaced handle wedges in the field to keep an axe head from '"flying off the handle" and did not have a steel step wedge at hand. If the handle is set properly and a properly fitting wood wedge used I find this to be all that is needed to keep my wood handled tools working safely. As always, good stuff Dan!
You're right Dan, Liam's handles are great. I just received two this week for some hatchets I'm re-handling. And it was this video (back in December) that informed me of his products.
The timing of this video is perfect I'm dealing with replacing a handle in an old axe head right now. However the one thing that I needed information on you didn't cover and that's how to get the wedge into the top of the axe handle.
Evapo-Rust also works great and will get the rust out of the eye. Just make sure to rinse it really well, and Immediately dry and oil after using. I use the stuff all the time on antique typewriters and tools.
20:11 I don’t know if you read comments Dan but I have an original Norlund Scout hatchet from probably the sixties and it’s never been used. Long story but I forgot I’d been given it in trade for some work I did. The head was loose and since I’d never replaced a handle before, I threw it in a shop drawer and forgot about for thirty years. I’m too old now to enjoy it. It needs a good home. I had no idea that a Norlund was anything special until watching RU-vid the last few years. I appreciate your videos and would offer this thing to you. If you read this, reach out and I’ll get it to you.
Great vid! I love old axes, especially Norlunds. If the head is very rusty an overnight bath in vinegar works wonders. Then I hit it with my pressure washer to remove the black goo. Vinegar will remove any patina though. The wire brushes on grinders do seem to burnish the metal to a nice hue. I have also used an orbital sander to clean up some old heads. I go very easy around the maker's mark though. I hate head mushrooming, so I almost always try to remove it and finish the head edges with a slight bevel. In addition to your methods of removing the wedges, I've drilled small holes into the metal wedge, then screwed a large headed screw part way into the wedge. Then I used the screw to pull the wedge out. If you can get the wedge out without messing up your handle you might be able to reuse the handle. Even if the handle is messed up a little, you can widen the cut in the handle and then make a slightly oversized wedge to fit the cut. Or, you might be able to trim off a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch off the top of the handle to clean it up enough to use. You may have to deepen the wedge cut, or trim the shoulders down a tad, but it's sometimes worth it to be able to use the original handle, if it's in decent shape. Vintage handles on quality axes often are very nicely shaped with beautiful patinas. Those are really nice handles that you have! I hope you plan to feature them in upcoming vids. Years ago I took my dad's Craftsman Boy's Axe into a Sears to get a replacement handle. The cashier noticed that the head said Craftsman, so they gave me a free handle under warranty. Ace Hardware and Tractor Supply sometimes have decent replacement handles if you need one pretty quickly. You'll have to scrape the varnish off though. I love a nice fawns foot on the end of the handle. Yours looked very nice. There's a boiled linseed product out there that also contains a citrus or orange oil in it. I think it has the word Milk in the name. Mine is in storage from a recent move, or I'd go look it up. It soaks into the wood faster and also dries faster than regular boiled linseed oil. Howard's Wood Food, and even butcherblock oil works well to rehydrate older handles. Be super careful with any rags you use boiled linseed oil on. It can spontaneously combust if you throw it into the garbage while it's still damp. I love the look of a slightly proud handle with only a wooden wedge in it. I try to cut the tip of the protruding handle above the head as square as possible. Then I hit it with a sander to make the top super smooth and to blend edges of the different woods. Sometimes I'll use a high contrasting color of wood for the wedge. I've done a couple where I set a smaller wedge perpendicular to the first. In an large eye you can do two. I place the second wedge more towards the large part of the eye. It forms a cross at that point, which I think looks great. I've done a couple of hammers as well. BTW, I use a rubber mallet for seating the handles. It doesn't ding up the wood. I guess that matters less if you have a handle that you're trimming after hanging it though. Do you often drill a hole in the handle to hang the axe from? Some of my axes have the original vintage handles that I restored and I've hesitated to drill them. I've taken to adding a hanging loop to the mask when I make them. If I'm giving an axe as a gift though, I always drill the handle and add a loop to hang it with, otherwise most folks will end up leaning it against a wall, causing the handle to warp, and the head will probably be sitting on the ground causing it to rust up.
Sinking the axe into dirt is one of those things that is so obvious - once you see it. Excellent! Btw - you could use a pot of dirt and a torch if you don’t want to build a whole fire.
found an axe head stuck in a stump at a scout camp a few years back so I took it home and cleaned the rust off but its sat like that since so this really helps me know what to do with it now.
So, did you skip a step? Did the handle come with the slot for the wedge or did you have to cut it yourself. And if you cut it yourself, did you cut it before fitting the head on the handle or did you fit it then pop off the head and cut it? Seems like an important step to skip in the video....
I have always been concerned that I would ruin the temper of an axe head by burning out an eye. I would do it in a situiaton where I don't have access to tools. Thanks for the helpful video. I would love to see a thermometer near the bit to show the actual temps.
Please don't burn the wood out of the eye of your axes unless there is absolutely no other option. You can harm the temper if you aren't very careful. Those handles are really nice looking. Along with a four-in-hand rasp, I really like a Shinto rasp. A spoke shave is fantastic at working the handle down to fit in the eye. If you carve your own handles, you will want a draw knife. You will quickly learn how the draw knife interacts with the wood grain. Drawing in one direction will produce nice shavings. The other direction will tear out wood. I prefer to use electrolysis to remove rust that is more than just surface. All you need is some washing soda and a car battery charger. It removes the rust while leaving a really nice patina. Coal Cracker sells a really nice sharpening puck. The coarse side of the puck will wear pretty quickly, but in doing so does a great job of sharpening. I love restoring rusty, abused axes and hatchets!
Oddly one of my favourite videos. Now I want to go buy an old axe😅 I remember my dad burning out the old handles. Mostly because he let us roast marshmallows as it burned out lol Great video Dan.
Have to say, I've often wondered about the fire changing the temper of the axe, BUT, I never thought of burying the cutting edge in the dirt, for insulation purposes....THANKS!!
Im glad you came out with this tutorial as I have a few old- (early 1900's) axe heads that I want to do this to. Did you say you get your handles from a guy or a website? Thanks again for this tutorial.
Excellent presentation. Something to try is50/50 Vinegar/water mixture and soak for 20-30 minutes, all the rust will scrub right off with dish scrubby. Let the chemical do the work. Works on cast iron skillets too.
Beautiful Plumb National pattern... I regret selling mine but I'm not a big hatchet guy. Had it been a 2 lb head on 24" haft it would have been an absolute favorite.
Hi happy Christmas, nice job on this! I like to leave the hardwood wedge slightly higher than the top of the handle so you can easily re - tighten if necessary, but maybe I didn't do it right in the first place 🤔haha. Great video's as always cheers 🪓
I have an old Gransfors Bruk that I foolishly cut the handle off of instead of trying to tighten up the fit. It's been needing a new handle for years as a result. My problem is that I want a handle that closely matches the shape of the original. I'll have to look when I get home, but at first glance the Hoffman handles look pretty close. I might have to pick one up and get this head back to being a functional axe!
I was fitting s handle one day while visiting my dad, and he got tired of watching me file and fit and went and got his Dremel and said it was faster. lol. So, I made him sit and watch me finish with the four in hand, also known as a shoemaker's rasp, then sandpaper.
Hello, Dan; Thank you for all you do. Burning it should be the last resort unless you have no tools whatsoever. If the broken haft can be removed (easily done w/ hand tools) then; drive 2/3 of the bit into the ground to keep the bit's temper. BTW, when the haft breaks right at the head turn the head over & drive the old haft out the top. You can disagree. I'm 67 & I haven't had to do this in 35-40 years, until this year. So I may not have as much experience as you. But it was a regular thing back in the day. Also, most people don't know to thin the haft to give it some flex, makes it last better. House handles are cheaper (S&H not included) & so far they're far superior to Truper. Last point, IMO it's a waste of time to grind, sand, or polish an ax head. If you use it that will 'clean' it up over time. You said you like the "rustic look' so save time & money on that, use it to file & hone. And to practice chopping. That is more important than most realize. I've seen people swinging an ax & not hit the same spot twice. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Sorry to see you skipped showing cutting the haft to make space for the wedge. I never know what length that should be ... Apart from that, very nice guide, thanks!
Did I miss something because the wedge suddenly appears partially embedded? For as detailed as the rest of the video is, this step seems to be totally glossed over.
what about fiberglass handles? i get it, while not "traditional" aren't they "superior" to wood handles, in that, more shock absorption, more durable, waterproof, split proof, etc.? anyone sells fiberglass handles?
