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Buster Martin on Action Directe 9a 

MoonClimbing
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In 1990, Ben Moon climbed 'Hubble' making it the world's first 8c+. The following year, Wolfgang Gullich made the first ascent of 'Action Directe' giving it a UIAA Grade XI (8c+/9a). Both routes have since been upgraded to 9a.
In October 2022, Buster sent Action Directe in just four sessions over two separate trips this year. Buster becomes the first Brit to climb the route, and joins Alex Megos in becoming the only two people in the world to have climbed both Action Directe and Hubble.
Filmed and edited by Marsha Balaeva ‪@monoculturefilms5868‬
Supported by Moon Climbing.

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2 ноя 2022

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Комментарии : 81   
@tiamat87
@tiamat87 3 дня назад
great to see young climbers caring about historical routes and actually climbing them ♥
@eccehomer8182
@eccehomer8182 Год назад
A great film and a superb ascent. It's strange how often many of these iconic climbs finally get done when something doesn't feel right and the holds are a bit damp.
@arnonimous7588
@arnonimous7588 Год назад
(whispering ---- "Saïd" ---- here)
@alexbarcovsky4319
@alexbarcovsky4319 Год назад
Its because 90% of the time I feel like climbers cant send because their head aint right. When everything is propper shit you dont have that pressure of failing because you are kind of giving it a "whatever Ill try".
@constantinosschinas4503
@constantinosschinas4503 Год назад
A Brute, futuristic route that 30 years later has not aged a bit, staying impressive and inspirational. Excellent ascent and video as well. Thanks for sharing.
@wenlambotomy6231
@wenlambotomy6231 Год назад
This route was so ahead of its time.
@BrunoAxhausen
@BrunoAxhausen Год назад
great film! So ironic when you spend all this time perfecting a sequence, having perfect partial sends along the way and then the actual send ends up being one of the worst goes on a proj… happened to me this summer as well, such a weird feeling 😅
@dainaheaton
@dainaheaton Год назад
Classy words from Buster. Lovely illustrative animations from Marsha, must have been very cool to film!
@TxusFactory
@TxusFactory Год назад
Since the moment you accidentally took my climbing shoes in Cuenca I knew you'd send it 😁Jokes aside, great send sir! Keep it up!
@ploglet
@ploglet Год назад
Great video and climb. Cool to see the final ascent from a different angle. Congrats
@torreyintahoe
@torreyintahoe Год назад
I started climbing right when Gullich put up Action Directe. He was always my hero. He was a real visionary. Got to visit Frankenjura twelve years ago.
@christianmengel9407
@christianmengel9407 Год назад
Best angle I’ve seen of the route! Such a good video!
@danielosullivam6662
@danielosullivam6662 Год назад
Brilliant little film.Loved the edit/production and Busters smiles!
@jre9571
@jre9571 Год назад
I remember reading the articles in my Climbing mags after WG sent it. Still as valid today as then! Beautiful send! Well done sir.
@niallgrimes3642
@niallgrimes3642 Год назад
That was a great film, amazing stuff Marsha!
@josephtomlinson5998
@josephtomlinson5998 Год назад
Really enjoyed this 🤘🏼
@LilianCvl
@LilianCvl Год назад
Congrats! What a dream to climb this route
@lucasla5
@lucasla5 Год назад
amazing!!! well done Buster and Marsha
@hanneshuch8965
@hanneshuch8965 Год назад
Buster is a great guy! Well deserved ascent!
@Tpgough
@Tpgough Год назад
Inspiring stuff, Buster. Always enjoy following your achievements. Ben and...the other guy...from Uni of Hertfordshire will be chuffed if they see this. Keep it up pal!!
@princenabby1
@princenabby1 Год назад
Beautifully filmed and edited video!
@edferrri
@edferrri Год назад
incredible film and ascend!
@stephenbyrne7547
@stephenbyrne7547 Год назад
Superb film and fantastic send 👏🏻👏🏻
@nicholasmarshall5775
@nicholasmarshall5775 Год назад
great film!
@kellycordner1
@kellycordner1 Год назад
wonderfully articulate as well!
@muttiplay
@muttiplay Год назад
What a composed reaction to the send! Nice
@Hendershot93
@Hendershot93 Год назад
Good work man!!
@MiklasKuoppala
@MiklasKuoppala Год назад
Lovely film
@music4lifesux
@music4lifesux Год назад
SUCH a sick video.
@iggimoore
@iggimoore Год назад
Awesome :)
@bluepalmsmusic
@bluepalmsmusic Год назад
Congratulations!
@santosvella
@santosvella Год назад
Such a humble guy.
@rupps191
@rupps191 Год назад
great film marsha!
@hiroshi6041
@hiroshi6041 Год назад
My dream line🙌🙌
@aidanscarffe5256
@aidanscarffe5256 Год назад
Strong work buster!
@auntie5132
@auntie5132 Год назад
5:55 Got me when I saw how many shoes he brought 😂
@middle-agedclimber
@middle-agedclimber Год назад
Best film about AD. Nice evasion at the end, a true politician ;)
@seoleaders
@seoleaders Год назад
Superb video. Buster is a machine, one finger pullups? I had no idea that was even possible lol.
@mauricioalfaro9406
@mauricioalfaro9406 Год назад
Actual climbing starts at 8:16
@user-hx7rh4su3t
@user-hx7rh4su3t 4 месяца назад
Brilliant. Looking forward to Sajd's video.
@maurocanipari7258
@maurocanipari7258 Год назад
Wolfgang forever. Great!
@konradschwein5954
@konradschwein5954 Год назад
xcellent movie!!!! sympatic guy:)
@emanueler
@emanueler 9 месяцев назад
Amazing!! wow. One thing as a newbe I don't like of Frankenjura, is that at the top there's seem to be always a big and scary run out where if you fall, you fall a lot. Sometimes I have not even found the top anchor :(
@doublevgreen
@doublevgreen Год назад
sick
@ochoymedio78
@ochoymedio78 Год назад
Amazing film! Congratulations! One question: how was Wolfgang's original beta? Everyone's said that his beta was kinda more straight forward and that no one has ever repeated the route that way ,and I've always wondered about which were the differences. Never have I seen a video explaining the way Wolfgang did it. Cheers mate!
@hanneshuch8965
@hanneshuch8965 Год назад
Wolfgang did a superhard cross move at the top (where the route leads to the left) which was also done by Alexander Adler, but the craziest thing is that he matched the two finger pocket (where you jump to at the start) with the help of two very small holds. When he had the two finger pocket with his left hand he went superdirect and very far upwards. Certainly not the easist way :) Cheers, Hannes
@ochoymedio78
@ochoymedio78 Год назад
@@hanneshuch8965 After I wrote the question I went directly to Adler's video and noticed exactly that, the cross move on the last part where no one crosses, but it's the matching on the pocket after the jump what I'm reading/listening for the first time (nevertheless there are pictures actually of that right? In "a life in the vertical")! So instead of going right with the left on the lower cross, he went directly straight with his right? wow, gangsta! Danke Hannes!
@hanneshuch8965
@hanneshuch8965 Год назад
@@ochoymedio78 There are pictures of this on my harddrive :) But they are owned by Thomas Ballenberger so I cannot show them online. Actually they should be used in the documentary about a swedish climber sending Action Directe .... :) If you come to the Frankenjura one day let's meet for a coffee and I bring my computer and show you. Cheers!
@richardbradley1532
@richardbradley1532 Год назад
Nice
@danobable
@danobable Год назад
Great work and a cool film 🙂 was that Chris Sharma in the background?
@Troggination
@Troggination Год назад
the real action directe was the friends we made along the way
@josettechavy9001
@josettechavy9001 Год назад
Un niveau phénoménale, tb perfomance
@clemensbogner3045
@clemensbogner3045 Год назад
Uk 3??wtf?? :D ;)
@carlosbagan7607
@carlosbagan7607 Год назад
🙏👏👏👏
@p3scful
@p3scful Год назад
💯
@saxon8981
@saxon8981 Год назад
99
@chumdm3
@chumdm3 Год назад
Way to fight it out despite it not being a perfect ascent. It would be so easy to take. That route is properly hard.
@antoinehalik
@antoinehalik Год назад
Love the music at the beginning. Could you give me the name?
@DrewWithington
@DrewWithington Год назад
Proper hardcore route.
@alexbarcovsky4319
@alexbarcovsky4319 Год назад
Imagine fucking up a sequence on a 9a and still sending. Thats when you know the training paid off.
@mikafull
@mikafull Год назад
Image with what shoes Wolfgang climbed it back in the days.
@jamesjackson2894
@jamesjackson2894 Год назад
Boreal lasers. To be fair I don't think Wolfgang used his feet much! 😂
@Aaron-xq6hv
@Aaron-xq6hv 11 месяцев назад
By 1991 we already had slip-lasted and downturned shoes. I know shoes have gone crazy in the 21st century but this is still Wolfgang Gullich and not John Gill.
@josephmullett5427
@josephmullett5427 Год назад
"for many years" ;)
@israelolvera558
@israelolvera558 Год назад
💫💟❤️💓❣️😘💞✨😇
@fanaticclimbing
@fanaticclimbing Год назад
"Buster becomes the first Brit to climb the route" And Richard Simpson?
@shimizen1693
@shimizen1693 Год назад
Yes, they got it wrong, he did it in 2005 and he's also listed as having climbed Hubble. There was controversy about him at some point for supposedly having claimed ascents without evidence to get sponsorships. [Edit: the following is wrong:] But there's video of his ascent of Action Directe (in a short film called "Obsession") so no question about that one.
@jamesjackson2894
@jamesjackson2894 Год назад
No, there's no send footage on that film.
@shimizen1693
@shimizen1693 Год назад
@@jamesjackson2894 Yeah, just googled it and appears you're right.
@fabey2948
@fabey2948 Год назад
I thought Ondra also did both routes!!!
@mountbeckworth1
@mountbeckworth1 Год назад
Well done! And no distracting rap background music. From Australia.
@the_zenclimber
@the_zenclimber Год назад
afaik only UK climbers have settled on Hubble being 9a…
@arthurv8905
@arthurv8905 Год назад
Well the only non-Brit to have climbed it is Alex Megos... Ondra seemed to think it was 9a when he tried it.
@MsFleshgear
@MsFleshgear Год назад
Alexander Adler , from Dresden Saxony , is the 2nd Germans, right after Wolfgang. That was a long time ago.
@sanf5488
@sanf5488 Год назад
@@MsFleshgear thats a fake ascents, he confirmsd tht about it.
@TheMegaMrMe
@TheMegaMrMe Год назад
Amazing climb, but that belay technique...
@TesterAnimal1
@TesterAnimal1 Год назад
A great battle. Looked like a normal climber!
@achimborn5850
@achimborn5850 Год назад
I just think it's terrible that everywhere now, even in the most beautiful natural places in the world, you always see these hooks in the rocks. Just because a few idiotic fun-loving adrenaline junkies want to prove themselves, who apparently know nothing better in their lives than to climb around pointlessly somewhere.
@princenabby1
@princenabby1 Год назад
I just think it's terrible that everywhere now, even in the most unobjectionable cyber spaces in the world, you also see these ill-informed and negative comments. Just because a few idiotic contrarian junkies want to prove that their way of looking at the world is the only way, who apparently know nothing better in their lives than to criticize pointlessly everywhere. Sound about right, Achim?
@achimborn5850
@achimborn5850 Год назад
@@princenabby1 No, that is not quite true! What these climbers do you can see. What I do no one knows. (I do not sit for hours in front of the computer and criticize, because it is my profession or just for fun. Unlike the climbers who do it either professionally or for fun!
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