I used waterlox to seal my butcher block top - followed these directions - came out great. Will definitely use this same technique again. Just seems you gotta patient. Been about 6-7 weeks, and has more than a hint of the smell, so hasn’t completely dried. I don’t handle food directly on it, but we’ll see after 3 months.
Been well over a year - my stained butcher block has held up great, the hint of chemical scent went away after a couple months, still looks great now and it gets a lot of use. I followed almost exactly how the video showed it applied.
I thought about Waterlox original or satin but did not see anywhere on the ad it was food contact safe (my use is for wooden flutes with mouthpieces, to a rather hyper-green-safe-conscious crowd (some of them won't even touch their lips to mineral oil because it's petroleum, meanwhile I drink a tablespoon to loosen up the ol' lower belly). I have some 50/50 tung oil / citrus solvent that I guess doesn't seem to take too terribly long to dry, and I sort of post-finish with Odie's Oil (in part for the smell) but something appliewd after the 50/50% Tung/D-limondene and before Odie's would be something that doesn't take forever to dry but puts a little sheen on. I've heard different areas of cut or grain can absorb Watco Butcher Block Oil to look uneven or spotty, but I thought maybe the penetrating pre-treatment of the 50/50 might mitigate that. I also can NOT find out what is in the Watco. But now you're indicating Waterlox is food contact safe, so maybe it would be good. Oh wait I see you're using Waterlox the way I'm using 50/50 as a penetrating 1st two coats, anyway, maybe tomato tomahto. Awesome paper hint! I'm to assume the tung is just pure tung...? Hmm... looks way runnier... looks the exact same as what you said was Waterlox... the popup sign was the only thing indicating the switch from Waterlox to tung and you saying "second coat" and all seems like you never switched products... I did benefit here...
I bought this for my friend for his birthday as we just moved into a new house and he finally has room for a workshop. The bench was very easy to set up ru-vid.comUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh They center support is a little difficult to snap in and out of place at first but at least then we know the bench is secure. It was a pleasant surprise when we saw it came with clamps. I apparently missed that in the description. My friend loves the versatility of the bench. Great starter bench for his workshop and easily transportable all over our property. I wish the bench was a little taller but the other features of the bench more than make up for that.
@@huntwoodcabinetoutlet1627 Thanks for the reply. I am very worried about particles and am very new so its nice to hear I can relax a bit in a well vented area. Thanks again.
I am ready for the oil.. I came here to see how to clean every spec of sawdust. If he just put oil on the countertop without removing all dust he, and you are screwed. do not skip the part were you get all the dust off. I don't mean just vacuum or wipe down.
Ever considered Rubio Monocoat as a finish instead? Seems to be super quick and easy and durable as all get out. Has been used in the flooring industry for decades.
I just completed a garage workbench. I want to finish the top with this type of oil. Living in Michigan the temperature in the garage is about 40 degrees right now. Will this affect the oil drying and should I wait until higher temps? Thanks
Yes, it will affect the dry time. It should be around 60 degrees. You still can oil but will take longer to dry. Anything below that, I wouldn't oil till it warms up.
I'm getting ready to do that exact project. Mine's a large slab connecting cabinetry on each end (and underneath). Were you happy with how yours turned out?
The text said Tung Oil but the guy said Linseed Oil. I'm guessing you meant Tungseed since that's the one you would use for a kitchen application, being good safe, water resistant and dries hard.
@Mr Sunshines Tung oil comes from Tung fruit from a tree in China and Linseed oil is from flax seeds. Neither is toxic, unlike mineral oil which is also called liquid petroleum-derived from crude oil.
@@huntwoodcabinetoutlet1627 What kind of waterlox? There seems to be many different options... can you perhaps send a link to the exact version you use?
Considering using this product on a workbench top.... Can anyone give me a reason this product wouldn't work, or if there's a better product out there for that purpose?
No, it is not. Danish oil is a mix of oils and varnishes. Varnish is toxic and should not be put on countertops that will have food prepared on them. It would be best to contact the product maker, that you are thinking of buying, and asks them.
I have a dinning table made of pine which has been hard waxed. Unfortunately even though it looks great, it leave marks and scratches. What can I do to seal it and make it more scratch resistant
You'll probably need to do some research on finishing products that actually harden and reach out to a true furniture company that builds pine furniture.
Did u wet it prior to sanding? Someone told me to keep rubbing water on it for a few days top and bottom and that will help it swell to close very slight gaps. Had it made by a company for island top 3ft by 5ft, needs sanding and oiled. Do i have to oil the bottom with both oils or only do the bottom with linseed? Also, would you suggest a polyurethane finish instead?
I have never heard of that. If you put water on your top the oil will not penetrate the wood deep enough to protect it. I put 2 coats of oil on the bottom, only one kind though. I would not use 2 different kinds of oils. As far as the polyurethane, you could, but you don't want to cut on it. Use a cutting board that has been oiled.
Not sanded yet. Stopped putting water on it for now bcuz i was waiting for your answer. So u only use Waterlox Linseed oil or tung is good too? Do u also do this monthly?
No, you don't need to Waterlox it but once a year. Put first coat on, sand with 180 grit, second coat sand with 500 grit will make for a smooth surface for your last coat. When dry paper sand and you're done.
Hi. Thanks for these great wood working videos. I mistakenly used Polyacrylic instead of water based polyurethane (Lowe's had it sitting right next to their oil based polyurethane). Now, months later, the paper from boxes, like cereal or popcorn, sticks to the polyacrylic. I then have to scrape the paper free. How can I fix this?
My neighbor cut down a pine tree with super large branches. I would love to make some circular butcher blocks. Is the pine appropriate for this and do I need to let it dry completely? Thanks for this video, hope we hear back.
@@avamaria8447 By the way... Pine is a very soft wood and will damage very easily…the oiling process is not intended to protect the wood from that standpoint but the oil will help protect the wood as far as sealing it up. Using pine as a butcher block, in my opinion, is not a good idea unless it's fully understood that it will get a lot of damage to it from cutting on it if it is intended for an actual butcher block.
if a butcher block gel stain & satin top coat are used. Should the Tung Oil still be used? If so, should Tung oil be used before application of the gel stain & satin top coat? Thanks for the video - the countertop looks nice!
No, you don't want to use both, rather use one or the other. I hope that there is not going to be food prep on the top. Tung oil is used on tops that will be used for food prep. Stain and top-coat will contaminate the food.
That would be up to personal taste. Try both on a small piece of wood. That way you can see what looks best to you. Personally, I like oil, which has a better sheen to it.
Well, I did both sides, using different finishes to see what I like most. One water based protection and the other side butcher oil. So the butcher oil I used I loved it. The water based l didn’t like . Thank you! I did this to the wet bar on the basement. It turned so beautiful!
This is probably a very good demonstration on finishing a butcher block but the music is totally annoying. Being a little on the hard of hearing side I could hardly make out what was being said. I didn't watch the whole video but would have without the music.
I love music, but could you imagine school classrooms having soft background music playing all the time!!! Pick a time when you’re not teaching (talking) if you want to play music. Ok I’m getting down off my box, you can start the music 🎷🎻🪗🎹🎼🎺
It depends on the amount of use and how bad it gets dinged up. If kept in fairly good shape, you can get away with a light sanding and re-oiling. Otherwise, you will likely need to re-sand much deeper. Remember that it is all in steps: as sanding takes place, step down the level of paper coarseness from roughly 150 grit to 180 to 220, etc. The oiling is in layers as well. The desired look is all in the success of the prep work. Other tips: If you have a small spot, you shouldn’t sand too much or you may have to totally re-sand. Also, use a clean rag and go in the direction of the wood grain.
Just a sheet of paper, no grit. Depending on how rough the top is, most of the time paper sanding will work, if it is rough use 500 grit. You don't want to stay in one spot, as you need to keep the sander moving.
Just to confirm, staining is optional correct? I purchased an unfinished American poplar butcher block. Was planning on just clear coating it. Any concerns with that?
Correct. The only concern is if it will be used for food prep or not, as other clear coats are toxic. If this is being used for food prep, be sure to use Waterlox as it is not toxic after it dries.
@Mr Sunshines I’ve never heard of that, so I called a technical Rep. at Waterlox, as well as found great info on their website: www.waterlox.com Here’s what I found out: - On their website, it says “Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are water resistant, stand up to household spills and are non-toxic1 and food-safe when dry. Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes have good heat resistance, can be used around stoves and are unaffected by boiling water and liquids.“ - The Rep. said “Once the Waterlox has cured (dry time typically 24 hours, with good ventilation, low humidity and not cool temperatures), it is not toxic, and it cannot get un-cured. So, once the Waterlox has cured it is food safe”. - The Rep. also said as far as cutting food on a Waterlox wood top, that cutting into the Waterlox breaks the seal for protecting the wood. So if knives are used to cut food on the Waterlox wood countertop and if you want to continue to protect the wood from water/liquid damage, then a food grade oil should be applied every week of use.
If you use 100 grit sandpaper, then yes it can leave marks. It would be better to use 180 or 220 grit. Due to the age, of course you won't be able to spot sand (as it won't look right) but rather will need to evenly sand the entire surface, so it all looks the same. Hope all goes well!
Yes, we sell Butcher Block Tops. If you'd like to inquire more, you can call or email George Dunbar in our customer service department and he can best direct you according to what you are looking for. George's phone # is: 1(800) 873-7350 _ extension: 1108 or email him at: gdunbar@huntwood.com
Waterlox has many ingredients. The top 5 are, from the most to the least, mineral sprits, specially processed tung oil, ester gum, phenolic resin and linseed oil.
1 to 3 inches thick is recommended. The thicker the better, for less chance of warping. 1.5 inches is our standard, and we have done tops up to 4 inches. 1 inch is more cost effective (though be sure to secure it down well, to help prevent warping).
so the waterlox is the undercoat? I thought it was a final coat sealer...One question though, I sealed my butcherblock counter with waterlox, and the counter that gets sunlight really gets light and brittle fairly quickly compared to the rest of the counter. Is there anything I could do for that?
I haven’t heard of this happening. The waterlox is the only thing that I put on. From the first to the last. Three coats total. Maybe call the maker of waterlox to find what we could do about this. I would like to know.
It's not confusing. Yes, Waterlox is one type of tung oil. It's made up of several types of resins, oil, and gum. The TOP 5 are: Tung Oil, Mineral Spirits, Ester Gum, Phenolin Gum, and Olefin Gum.
Use an air hose and a dry cloth. If you don't have air, then the cloth will work. After the first coat paper sand (which means that you use a piece of paper to sand the top). Then put the next coat on the paper sand, and then the last coat.
What would have been a good video was totally ruined by irritating and totally unnecessary background music! I wanted to hear what you were saying - not supermarket music!
