WE HAVE A WINNER EVERYONE!! Durwood mount please contact me for the super clean giveaway!! I paid $2,850 for this machine and with the CRAZY prices with equipment now I think I got a ok deal. Let me know what u guys think.. fair deal? Also any information to help with getting her running again would be much appreciated ❤️ Thanks for all the guesses there we’re some comments that were sooo close!!
@@lukekazmir1197 what else did they use that engine in? Honestly the only thing I knew of was the 80s Toyota pickup trucks and those weren't very common.
No better way to learn the machine than rewire the entire thing yourself, and as much as I hate wiring too, it is comforting to know that you touched every bit of it to fix janky previous repairs.
Depends on weather and compression the glow plugs has to be used, hold the key for 20 seconds then crank. That coil that burned through is to let you know the glow plugs are ready and hot. The mechanical pull switch is only for cutting off. To turn off by key switch, it would have a solenoid and actuator that would push on the mechanical switch on the fuel pump
Brings me back to when I was restoring an S55 AMG that had been sitting for 10 years, I think I spent close to 30 hours going through all the wiring and fixing everything. Godspeed buddy.
I feel like there were no good wires on that when you bought it. literally all of them had one problem or another. You're a incredibly patient man for being able to parce that mess out.
Thanks for watching everyone!! Please let me know if you can help me figuring out why this engine wants to runaway when I start it and also don’t forget to post what you think I paid I will let the winner know in a reply to their comment, hit the like button if you want to 🙂thanks again.. good luck
You probably already have found this out, but it seems the pump is cobtrolled in the same manner as the 2H engine with manual gearbox. The butterfly valve have 2 hoses going down to the injection pump applying vacuum/atmospheric pressure on both sides of a diaphragm which in turn moves the fuelrack position inside the pump, determening the throttle. If I remember correct from when I had an 2H engine one hose goes from the bypass tube on the throttle valve measuring "atmospheric" and the other from the vacuum/engine side of the throttle valve. The diaphragm in the pump can tear and then the rpm will act sporadic or sometime just full throttle. The cool thing about these pumps is that you now got a throttle/butterfly valve so of you turbo the engine it will make all kinds of nice turbo sounds 😁
My SDK7 is a beast. Never lets me down. They are actually really solid machines. Also that upright lever on left is the throttle, the one under it is a manual fuel cutoff that someone installed. Same as mine. A lot of parts are actually available cheap from toyota. I think the gauges, fusebox and switches are all still available and cheap. Most of the issues with mine when i picked it up were from dirty fuse connections in the fusebox. Everything works flawlessly in mine now. I even grafted a bobcat 753 door onto mine and sealed up the back and sides with 1/4” lexan with gaskets and installed a full side heater core. I use it to plow all winter. Its a beast with chains on back. 👍
@@TheHomePros6221 yea they are but i did hear they are susceptible to overheating due to either blocked rad or the fan blades snapping off then the heads tend to crack. They are pretty rare because not many were imported to the US but I’ve probably seen 10 for sale in last 7-8 years and 5 of them said they had head issues. The only good thing is the engine parts seem to be available if you know where to look. Ive owned mine since 2014 and i really only use it a few hours here and there around the house and every snowfall it does my super steep driveway but I have not had any issues with it since i fixed it up after buying it. I think i did a waterpump on it in the beginning and then its been super reliable. Every gauge and light works correctly. The water in fuel bulb was lit after i fixed the wiring and I figured it was a different issue…… I drained the water seperator and boom the light went off and its been perfect 😂. You cant beat old 80’s yotas. Mine also came with 2 buckets and a set of original forks. Its handy for unloading wood pellets in winter.
@@starionslider2116 hopefully mine will get to that! The previous owner said they checked the head for cracks and everything while they machined it so hopefully it doesn’t have any🤞
I’m a Toyota industrial equipment tech for a living and those lil skid steers are pretty darn solid machine. They’re built a lot like the forklifts and they’re the toughest built lift trucks you’ll find as well as designed with to be worked on instead of replaced. BTW anyone who touched the wiring in that before you SUCKS!
@@TheHomePros6221 likely a contributor To the problem but there’s also supposed to be a spring that pulls that link between the throttle air valve and the injection pump up. There should be a tab facing toward the rear off the rod and the spring goes from there up to another bracket
The manual can be downloaded fro free,i just got one to see. Diesel engines don't need throttles to work,and when one is present,it's only for emergency shut off or smooth shut off,secondary to a primary injection shut off. The injection pump is doing all the work,to start,enrichen,shut off,or adjust timing. You should run it full open mechanical throttle,otherwise you will be way too rich and dump unburnt fuel in the engine oil,and reduce its lubricant properties.
@@TheHomePros6221 It's the case looks like. It also would explain why it smokes grey,it's way too rich and advanced for the desired normal rpm ,you are choking the engine why it's injecting full throttle. It should be something around 2500 rpm. Do you have the shop manual ?,it's quite easy to find for free. You need that to know what you are doing precisely,you may have some modifications made by the previous owners,and you will be chasing your tail.
@@TheHomePros6221 You did good till now : ) Just get reliable informations,like the shop manual. You are lucky to be able to have that machine,i wish i could here.
@The Home Pros This injection pump needs that throttle to operate. inside the back of the injection pump there will be a diaphragm that operates the fuel rack inside the pump giving you throttle. That throttle plate is there to create manifold vacuum and ported vacuum which is what moves the diaphragm in the injection pump. there will be 2 hoses that run from the throttle body down to the back of the injection pump. when this diaphragm is torn it will create a high idle. A lot of older Toyota diesels operate this way. Old Toyota landcrusiers with the 3b diesel have it set up like this. That other cable that goes to the injection pump is for the Start, run and shut off.
The butterfly valve is the manual engine kill for a diesel so it prob won't shutdown by the key. So I think that lever is working correctly. The throttle looks alot like the one we have on a dredge at my work. It's a twist throttle .
Congratz buddy, it goes to show you that all it takes is that one right video to get your channel flying in the mile high club 👍 Good job buddy i wish you all the best.
aw thanks andris it is very very much appreciated you and Dave have been really good friends to me and I really cherish that thanks again brother and I always wish you the same!, you have came so far and your videos have gotten so good 😊
Wonderful to see that you clean before you work. I am sick and tired of watching people working on vehicles with filth up to their arm-pits. Now in my 70's but used to rebuild cars, unfortunately petrol (gas) so I can't help with diesel problems. Waiting eagerly for part 2
Hey Buddy!! JDub from PA here. I just found you recently. I must say you have a lot of talent and not afraid of anything. I like how your transparency flows cause that will help you grow your channel. Keep up the great work and taking on new projects.
$2850 was good, it’s worth that in parts even if it didn’t run as well as it does. As for the issues it had, that’s just par for the course on that age of equipment. I like the $400-$700 comments, that’s the price of a fluid and filter change and a couple hydraulic hoses.
Yea anyone saying $400-$700 has clearly not left the house or looked at the internet in the last 2 years. Everything is so expensive now. Even total basket case skid steers are at least $5000
We had two of those machines. SDK8 and SDK7 (back in 1989). There is should be an actuator on that fuel shutoff. It has 3 positions. Middle is RUN. Rotate in to START (In that position it dumps heavy fuel to the motor when cranking). Rotate to opposite direction is OFF. We had the actuator burnout, so he replaced it with a stiff cable and worked it manually to START and SHUTOFF, until the new actuator came in. Those Toyotas were good machines. A weak point is where the top half is welded to the bottom half. They will tare them selfs apart there. We welded in some extra metal to hold it together after it ripped apart.
I'd start with the manual. I believe the lever and the knob are cobbled on from something else. Might be switched. That pull out now might be the kill switch but it also might be a throttle set where you twist it to lock it once you set the throttle
Hi, good video i really enjoyed it, couple of things i noticed and i wanted to give you some ideas for wiring. Do not use the shrink tube with solder, it's usually crap solder and it only looks good on the outside, use good solder and classic shrink tubes instead. And for the soldering, these point tip solders are usually for smaller jobs on PCB's and stuff, for wires use bigger solder gun. I dont know how its called in your contry but we call it transformer solder gun, it has a solid wire as a heating and soldering element. It heats up quick and solders nice these big wires. Cheers from Czechia!
@@TheHomePros6221 I think what's he's trying to say is that if you use a soldering gun (looks like a gun) that has a larger tip and higher wattage, you can transfer a lot more heat to those larger wires vs. a small tip soldering iron, Regardless of the quality of the smaller soldering iron, it just can't provide the same amount of heat. By the way, that was a big job replacing all that wiring, so good on you. Best of luck with the machine.
@@andyfairman7812 thank you 🙂 I have one of the soldering irons that he is talking about but this one is much better than those! It gets to 850 degrees in seconds, if you check out the pros they all use this one (hakko) ( made in Japan) and say it’s the best I’ve been through tons of different ones and I like this one the best
You on right track. Cleaning it up first well done. Most RU-vidrs dont clean before they fix. Sorting wiring out great. You will get all your answers from comments as people who have worked with this machine know the solutions. Keep trying as Toyota makes good machines. You will get it sorted out. Waiting to see it all sorted and running.
Good project you got there 👍 It’s crazy how some people can run there equipment into the ground without doing any maintenance and up keep! You will definitely bring this back for sure. On both of my Diesel machines ( Early 80s tractor and 1990 Excavator) both have a fuel cutoff with the throttle, the key will not turn off the fuel delivery, only the throttle will shut it off, but these are older machines. I’m looking forward to part 2 🙂
Thank u so much mike!! I know I can’t beleive it I try and take great care of the machines I own I think it’s more of the employees or renters that damage company equipment. It’s going to take a lot of work to get this old pig in the shape I want it but I’m glad I finally got a skid steer just hope I can get the throttle figured out, on my old Ford diesel tractor you pull a knob that shuts the engine off but I’m pretty sure this should cut off with the key from vids I’ve watched. Thank you so much for watching and commenting and all of the great videos and info you give!! Have a great one!
And its crazy how the previous owner put so much work into it fixing head gasket, just to hack in gauges and wires. It's like people only do electrical when they are drunk or something.
@@jarroddraper5140 The way the last guy put in the gauges was such a hack job. I have to give it to him the aluminum diamond plate mount is nice but the wires are just hanging on the side.
I have an SD5 in about the same condition! It has a Yanmar diesel. I ended up stripping the wiring completely and installing the basic necessities,oil psi, water temp, ect. Very handy machine plenty power for size!
Great video. Look forward to seeing your progress on this machine. Fwiw, I would clean all that paint off the chrome hydraulic cylinders before you use it much, to try to protect the seals and hopefully prevent having to rebuild them. I think you got a good deal.
I think the thing that attaches to the injection pump is the throttle and cut off. Start should be somewhere between cut off and full throttle. The lever to the throttle body is to trim the air. The key switch may be just to control the electrical. Unless you have a electrical cut off valve at the injection pump. Good luck
New UK subscriber here...😊 You have shown the patience of a Saint with that wiring...id've exploded a long while ago. Loved the video, and am looking forward to part 2, and will definitely be having a look at your other videos too..😊👍
Some diesel's like my international truck have a engine shutdown switch. You just pull the level out or down and starves the engine of air until it shuts off.
I'm guessing the tall lever on the left was a factory throttle/shut off and the one that you are using is a add on. Those are designed to be twisted to add more rpm's to the engine slowly. Does it have a foot throttle too ??
If it doesn't have a electric solenoid on the injection pump then most likely key start and manual fuel shutoff. This would have been the time companies would have been going to complete key switches. Have 80 decade models that one may have one and another would use the other. Also maybe the governor in injection maybe stuck from sitting. 950.00
I just fixed a 1978 toyota forklift with the same engine in it. Had the exact same issues. There is supposed to be a linkage from the throttle blade to the injection pump. The injection pump is a nippon Denso pneumatic governor. Message me if you have and questions. The throttle valve and the lever on the Injection pump should move in unison
read your other comment before this one and you are absolutley correct!! the linkage is connected but the edic motor is missing because they took this engine out of a forklift and stuck it in this skidsteer, I’m having trouble going through all these comments so if u can’t get in touch email or text me 7064428214 thanks for your help
Great buy Darrell! Id love all that dodgy wiring. I get great satisfaction out of ripping out bad wiring 🙂. Sounds like that engine has the same set up as my dexta. The throttle linkage goes to a butterfly on the intake manifold and there is a vacuum line from there to a unit with a diaphragm on the pump that alters the fuelling. If the vacuum line is damaged, or the diaphragm is split, the revs will fluctuate. Theres a toyota forklift down the road that probably has the same engine so I can take a look tomorrow if no one else gives you an answer meanwhile. The cable to the pump is most likely just a stop cable. Great seeing you posting again buddy, hope all is well 🙂👍. I can't enter the give away but I'm still gonna guess $1350.
Thank you so much Dave!!! Please do that if u can or send me a vid in my email, this engine actually came out of a forklift from what the seller told me
Ok. I'm jealous. Been wanting to get my hands on a skid steer that's broke down like that for awhile. I have never driven one, but need one, so figured I would get a old broken down one, completely rebuild it, that way i know more about the machine itself.
Your using the runaway ,shut off as a throttle ,there should be a electric shut off solenoid (needs power to it to run)but it looks like there’s a problem with the injection pump throttle linkage,great job on the wiring 👍.
thank u very much!! and u are correct this engine was out of a forklift and the cutoff solenoid is missing also the diaphragm in the injection pump was bad
The thing that melted in the dash panel is probably the indicator for the glow plugs. When you run them it'll heat up and show through the sight glass on front of it. I'd guess the glow plug control went bad or shorted and they stuck on leading to it melting.
DING DING DING WINNER WINNER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I PAID $2850!!! please send me a email to alberici.darrell@gmail.com thank you very much for guessing!!
I learned the lesson demonstrated here early in my mechanical experience. I had a vehicle I got that the owner said had some problems. So I set about fixing it. Of course I had now idea what I was doing. After countless hours and buying parts I only thought I needed and threats from my parents about the piece of junk at the house I gave up and got a shop to fix it. Cost me a small fortune to undo all the mess I made and fix it right. So now if I am sure and have the right experience I will work on things. If I have any doubts I lets someone who knows what their doing fixit. As for my guess as to how much you paid for this machine I would say "too much".
Missed this upload completely! Didn’t get any notification or anything, weird. But then again have been working a lot recently so it might be me. Glad to se that you have so many views on this video, must be a great interest in this kind of machinery.
It has vacuum controlled injection pump. That knob is shutdown. When intake manifold has lots of vacuum, it pulls injection pump rack to idle. When you open butterfly, vacuum is lost and fuel rack moves to full throttle. There is rubber diaphgram inside pump. Check its vacuum hoses.
@The Home Pros This injection pump needs that throttle to operate. inside the back of the injection pump there will be a diaphragm that operates the fuel rack inside the pump giving you throttle. That throttle plate is there to create manifold vacuum and ported vacuum which is what moves the diaphragm in the injection pump. there will be 2 hoses that run from the throttle body down to the back of the injection pump. when this diaphragm is torn it will create a high idle. A lot of older Toyota diesels operate this way. Old Toyota landcrusiers with the 3b diesel have it set up like this. That other cable that goes to the injection pump is for the Start, run and shut off.
Cool machine. Good luck. Looking forward to seeing you repair it. I looked at one of these in Central Jersey last year. Kept my eye on it for weeks. He was asking 5000 very similar condition to yours except the wiring wasn’t a mess. Price went down to four then three. I probably could have gotten it for two grand but I didn’t have time for a huge Project. The wiring scares me. Anyway me thinks you’re pretty safe up to like 2500 or 3000. Prob worth 600 in scrap metal right?
I know it seems like soldering your splices will make them stronger, and in terms of tensile strength it does, but solder makes the joint brittle. In an environment like this with lots of vibration that brittleness will be liable to make the joint fail. I think the best practice for something like this is just a lineman's splice with some glue lined shrink sleeves.
I had this same machine but mine was in significantly better shape. The glow plug coil in the dash was an indicator for the glow plugs. When you hold the key to the left, the coil glows to let you know the plugs are hot. The wires on the right joystick went to a turn signal switch.
Also, there should be a solenoid that cuts off fuel to the motor when the key is turned off. Someone definitely replaced the solenoid with that knob you pull that cuts off fuel.
Great video, and work done on that wiring mess. Before you start lifting anything with that, you should probably clean the paint and rust of those piston rods. Or you might mess up those seals. Who would get paint on those?
Hey Darrel, don't know when this vid was posted, but on a diesel engine, rpm is controlled by fuel ,not air flow. Looks like the butterfly in the intake would just shut off air and kill the engine. Good luck with this beast. PS Great video!!
Totally incorrect pneumatic governor system is used on this engine it's a 2J diesel in a 2sdk7 toyota, startup run and shut down are all controlled by the EDIC system looks like little wiper motor linkage to pump, due to all the wiring issues the edic system will not be working correctly
@@brianwynn5081 Thanks for the reply Brian, but why is the butterfly on a separate lever. The only diesels I have ever owned were Cummins, Cats, Ford Power Stroke, and Ford tractors with the Power Stroke and a 500 Cummins being the only ones drive by wire. PS I am 72 now so all were mechanical engines except for my last truck, a 2005 KW with a 500 Cummins and the Power Stroke. Again thanks! Never to old to learn. lol
that glow plug resistor is fairly common on older diesels , Mercedes and other German stuff used them , all it does is indicate when it on by getting red, i have bypassed these and just put a light , on one i used a license plate light assembly .
@@TheHomePros6221 so how much did you give for it ,!!! ? Thank I would entertain about twice that for it if you want to sell it , or if you find one ☝️ with not more than 80 hp it’s needs to be less the that hp ok thanks have a good new year ,,, we literally rained in the new year here in my town with sheets and then dump trucks of rain 🌧 lol thanks BigAl California
Also check to see if there’s a vacuum line between the intake and the injection pump if so because of your butterfly valve is actually the throttle There may have a torn diaphragm in the pump that moves the rack or the fuel metering system telling the pump how much fuel to deliver If it’s torn it will possibly cause full throttle Fordson major tractors from England use a similar setup
@@TheHomePros6221 , yep that air intake and it's components are about the only areas where you will find reasons for a runaway where diesel engines are concerned.
I think the knob on your left when sitting in the machine is a fuel shut off. All my Kubotas have a electric shut off solenoid. If the solenoid fails you use the manual fuel shut off. Nice little machine. When you get all the bugs out it should be great.
Well I just seen you video. I was way off. I guessed $1500. Anyway I found when you started noticing all of the electrical problems and the way it was maintained I way thinking I’d just retire the entire machine. Then you know everything is good. Cudo’s to you on the HH eat Shrink Solder Sleeves. Don’t know why more people don’t use them. Great video.
The knob you are adjusting the idle with is the fuel cut off. Slightly cut off fuel and it lowers the idle. I think you have an issue in your pump, the pump has a governor to regulate the idle. Get that working and the throttle lever will probably work too.
I have a sdk8 I bought for $600, in much much better shape. I’m going with $500. I totally redid my wiring on mine. My injection pump had some sort of external servo that that was activated by the ignition switch that I elemenated. I put a pull cable on the injection pump to kill it. I put at momentary switch for the starter and glow plugs. I’ve had the machine for 12 years and it is very solid. I also changed the bucket connections to universal.
that’s awesome!! how did you hook up the glow plugs? mine aren’t working I’m also missing the EDIC motor servo that your talking about if u want to sell it. shoot me a email at alberici.darrell@gmail.com if u have any pictures or vid of how u hooked up the glow plugs. thanks a bunch my friend
2 year old video. I have this machine. Done lots of work to it, but basically theyre cold blooded. Mine had 2 wires hanging out to the starter. Hooked up a starter button, in the summer i count to 30-45 holding the glow plug on, in the winter, 60. Hit starter button with glow plug engaged, starts right up, hold glow plug til it sounds right. Get er done. Paid 2300 for mine
@@petercoit3959 nice! Yea mine always cranks rite up but I think the head mite be cracked because after running it for awhile it slowly starts to overheat. I’ll prob do a vid on it
Connect a 12V bulb between positive terminal and positive cable, then look for possible shortcuts. When bulb goes off, you found the cause of a shortcut. (Camarata's trick).
I know you can do it just think when it's all done it'll be just fine and you do it the way you need to do it and make it look beautiful I know you can do it
Man this reminds me of that old GEHL skidsteer I bought when I first started my RU-vid channel.. nothing but issue after issue, so many wiring issues I had on it and connectors cut off and unplugged everywhere I looked.. I finally did get it all ironed out tho before I traded it for my Cummins pickup. Keep at it buddy your doing a great job 👍🏻
I watched those vids of the gehl I think u made the rite choice, your tractor is much better to have for the work u do, and that truck is awesome, not to mention it was gonna need a rebuild or at the least new rings… u did well on that deal
@@TheHomePros6221 thanks man! Iv never been one to loose on a deal that’s for sure haha. I get it from my old man.. my brother on the other hand he always gets screwed when he buys or trades.. me and my father always make out good. I started with an RC car and a dirt bike and ended up with my Cummins haha.. to date tho that’s the best trading up I’ve ever done lol. Stay safe buddy!
@@BiffsEquipment u remind me a lot of myself when I was younger, I also started with a rc car then a fourwheeler …ect and I got it all pretty much by myself nowadays kids want everything handed to them and never want to put in the effort
Many years equipment owner/operator. When I was young like you, I tried to rescue a “buy” like you are. Believe me, if he gave it to you, it’s not worth your time, effort, and money.
Whenever I experience a throttle that looks like that. If you turn the throttle knob left or right that adjust the idle. This has a manual shut off so you will not be able to cut it off with a key you’ll be able to cut it off like you have been.
Put some CLR in the radiator to clean it out and eat it out all that crap and then run it some through the engine block. Be careful cannot feels loose then after you flush it out real good and run through a radiator cleaner and water jacket cleaner after that to finish cleaning it out. be careful. The freeze plugs they sometimes go bad and then put together the engine. Sometimes we don’t change them out and we should first with new belts new hoses on as much of that as you can. Otherwise we playing catch-up.
its nice to get these old machines to run and get only a reasonable amount of investment , i picked up a mower with a kabota diesel in it and had been sitting for around 15 years , im putting some vids on my channel of the mower but good luck with this thing , you might need hydro lines as mine does.
It looks like the throttle and shutoff are hooked up bacwards!!! Also the air shutoff on top is not ussualy hooked up at all it is more used as an emergency shutoff you will figure it out shortly , look at another machines linkage, Ken
Good luck with this mess. My nephew got a job as mechanic for a good sized landscape outfit. He’s been doing it since last fall and he has replaced three complete wireing harneses because they were too wasted to fix and the machine wasn’t near retirement. I’m gonna guess $1250.
The slide rack in the injector pump is stuck clearly. I am not envious of you doing that wiring job,did one like this on a loader,ended up building my own harness. Neat ol machine
@@TheHomePros6221 Yes,the slide regulates the fuel flow. There a few videos on you tube that show similar repairs. Since this has sat for a long time and has clear signs of neglect one needs to inspect everything .
The flap on the intake isn’t a throttle body. It’s a diesel so that’s a shutdown valve. Vw would call it an anti shudder valve, on their cars it ensures a quiet smooth shutdown of the engine and also used with the egr valve and for Dpf regeneration. .The cable attached to your diesel pump will be the throttle cable.
Swap out the long arm for the pull gizmo. Long arm onto short throw... Set up its travel so it's in the sweet spot. That big lever will be perfect once adjusted to that sweet spot. We just got a mechanical injection diesel truck and it's all on that one lever. Then on ours, the other side of the throttle arm has another lever that when you pull up on it, the pump shuts off and kills the engine. A spring is supposed to hold the lever up and an electric solenoid pulls down on it to let the engine get fuel. Our solenoid is dead and they swapped over the spring so is pulling it on and I have to push up on the lever to kill it.
@@TheHomePros6221 on my diesel truck "it's both". I started "a real channel" called if life was easy... I'm going to make a video about the fuel pump for you with what I'm thinking. But that flappy thing could be an all or nothing shut off but not a throttle. Every revival video talks about blocking the intake to prevent a runaway. Overall, I'm going to stick to narrow range of engine speed is controlled by short end after pivot of long control arm. Then... To shut off, pull it that slightly longer throw of shut off.
@@TheHomePros6221 well here's my video. I'm trying to figure out this whole RU-vid thing. I need to get my dang phone off this old Gmail account 😆 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qJX8MZP7UzI.html
5500 OK OLDER diesels do not shut off with the key. it is only used to start . the butterfly you seen chokes off the air which is normal. it kind of looks like the throttle and air shut off are backwards, and way out of proper adjustment. key shutoff only works with electronic injection. i believe that one is mechanical. hope this helps
Hello there from sunny Ireland just came across your video I love the restoration job tidy job on the wiring some one has the linkages on the wrong levers can't wait to seeing more videos fault finding really good all the best for 2023
YOU MUST GET A SERVICE MANUAL!!!!!! DONT SCREW UP WITH THAT DIESEL INJECTION PUMP, IT CAN COST YOU THOUSANDS TO FIX IF BROKE. IT MAKES ME PROUD TO SEE YOUNG FOLKS SUCH AS YOU JUMPING INTO IT. GOOD LUCK
@@TheHomePros6221 the service manual should show you exactly what each controll does. That should help fix the idle, if not you need to see what kind of injection pump you have and get the service manual for it.
thanks it has a pneumatic injection pump I got a manual for it also thanks to some wonderful subscribers! I found additional problems in the engine that u will see in part 2 so just be on the lookout hopefully it will be done soon!
The top lever is the kill and or run away motor The lower that can lock is Throttle that runs to the governor or the injection pump Since there is no electronic injection it will not shut off with a key unless the fed has an electric fuel bump
I be honest with you brother! I don't know it was more of a job then I had time for. I never tore in to it like you. I will tell you that the power prob is my favorite tool though it makes things easier for sure. I have no doubt that you will turn it into a nice useable little machine. You have a God given gift / talent that a lot of people would love to have. I still say weather or not I ever sold that tractor to you. I made a new friend that day.
On Kubota equipment the key doest cut the engine down. It only cuts the charging system down. You kill the engine with the fuel shut off. At least this is true on the old early 80's models.
Old school diesels it was normal to have a fuel cutoff knob to pull the injection pump closed and kill the engine. This one doesn't look stock, and I don't think this machine is that old. There should be a solenoid on the injection pump that switches open with key power, and closed when the key is off, to kill fuel and stop the engine with the key. You can try getting a better look at the pump and see if it's got one or not. If it does, run a wire to it with an alligator clip direct from battery hot, with a switch in the middle. See it it shuts off with the switch on the jumper wire. If it does, there's a break between the key and the solenoid
yes you are completely correct this engine came out of a forklift so it’s missing the original edic control solenoid that shut it down with the key. thank u!!
i think there used to be solenoid shut off valve , so you stop the engine with a key. I got my old excavator the same problem, so i just left with a pull shut off, you just have to put it in a comfortable place in case of tip over or something.
I paid 11000 for one of these 20 year ago , it was a toyota husky sdk7 with a yanmar 3 cyl diesel... best toy I ever had...I should never have sold it😭