@@ToolboxDIY I think it was mostly the yellow background...other YT tool channels have more of a jobsite, or project for a background...I feel that might do well? Just my suggestion 🤷♂️😅
I am completely new to woodworking, and until I watched this very informative video I had no idea about the in's and out's of nail guns. Thanks to you and your information I can now go on the look out for what I think I will need with some confidence. Thank you so much for sharing your video.
im looking to buy some gun to repair the rails on my deck, this video was so handy, next thing that I wish you explained more was the air compressor, I have a small one but it is not in PSI, but shows BAR, the adjuster on it doesnt seemt o do anything. But I did a check on a conversion table and 90 psi = 6.2 bar
Good explanation, thank you. Regarding clipped head nails, in some locations full head nails are code, clip head nails would not be code. Where contractors using not to code clip head nails the inspector would not pass the building; ouch let the rebuilding or re-nailing with full head nails begin. The concern is winds, full head hails hold better than clip headed nails. Always check your code.
👍🎯 🙂😃 You "NAILED" it, man !!! This was the VERY BEST and most THOROUGH demonstration and explanation I have yet found on RU-vid. I can't tell you haw much I appreciate it in my time of need for information ... 🙏THANK YOU 🙏
Thank you for making this content, I found it incredibly useful and very well explained, the best, I to, have seen on RU-vid so far. Many thanks and kind regards from North London UK.
It is a complex ecosystem. Cordless, compressed air, and whatever Paslode is. Choice between 21 and 30 degree nail guns? Plus other issues…. Will a 33 degree strip run in a 35 degree gun, etc.? And paper or plastic. And there are metal connecting guns for joist hangers and hurricane straps. There are cordless air compressors. I assume they can run nail guns? I don’t see CFM listed in product specs….. maybe I missed them. Cheers
Kudos for your video. It explained in detail the various nailer guns n helped me select the right gun for my DIY project to repair many of my solid closet doors. Look forward to your next video. Maybe you can produce a video on battery operated nailer guns, which I'm seriously considering purchasing. Thanks.
I'm trying to fix my table and chair I feel confident now with the information I got form this video I'll be able to purchase the right nail gun thanks.
thanx for WELL thoughtout vid my first time in 62 years i find need to buy one building screened in deck i may need two but hope to $ave via DIY. and what great tools 2 have
I am not a "HE-MAN" so really needed this. Only the second video I watched and should have been my first. Now I won't bother with any others --- so excellent. Thank you. Now I need a circular saw and jigsaw...
First, very nicely done !! This overview was great to watch. Precisely what I was looking for. What are your thoughts on pneumatic vs cordless? I've been looking at the Banks line from Harbor Freight. Like you said, they're a third of the price. What brand did you have in the video? Are they your personal tools? Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and videos, Rodney
I've only used a cordless once. It worked fine, but if the job was any larger, I don't think I would have enjoyed swapping out batteries and the cartridge that nailer required. If you only do light work, they are probably a good solution especially if you don't already own a compressor. The nail guns in this video were mostly Numax - a cheap brand. The framing nailer is a Porter Cable. I've since upgraded a few guns to Dewalt. I have no issue with Harbor Freight tools if you are only using them occasionally. If you have a large job or lots of jobs, those cheap brands probably won't hold up for very long.
Thanks for putting out this excellent teaching video. I found it very helpful. I do have a question for you -- for general diy work at home which might involve joining 1x dimensional lumber to plywood, what type of gun and what gauge should I get?
If I had to choose one nail gun to have around, I would probably go with a 16 ga angled finish nailer. 16ga has a decent amount of strength and the head isn't too large. The angled gun is more versatile since it can get into tighter spaces than a straight nailer.
Would that same gun be a good choice for a project that included replacing plywood soffit and patching a small amount of shingles? How about a Coil siding nailer?
For shingles, I would not use a finish or brad nailer. A coil roofing nailer is the way to go. These accommodate roofing nails that have a very large head needed for shingles. If the area is small enough, you could always do this by hand. A good roofing nailer isn't cheap. For the plywood soffit, you could use a 16ga finish nailer. A crown stapler would be a good choice here as well.
What are your thoughts on battery guns? Don't think I can adjust the nail impact for depth. Going to put up some tongue and groove. What would you suggest?
I would use the 16 ga. 18ga will likely work just fine, but baseboards can take some abuse thanks to kids and vacuums. So the extra strength of the 16 ga is worth the slightly larger hole. If the baseboards are thin and/or start splitting on you with 16 ga, then try the 18 ga.
what gun would shoot 16d nails? I thought 16d is what we need for framing, im doing rafters 2x6s and will have to do blocking and put on roof sheathing, what gun u suggest?? im a diyer
Hey I have a Dewalt 18 gauge finish nailer and it’s angled and I also have a Dewalt 18 gauge brad nailer. Can’t hardly see the difference other then ones angled ones not? What’s the difference thanks
I would use a framing nailer, if you have thick (3/4" or more) fence rails. If your rails are thinner, you might consider a fencing stapler (10.5ga). The brad nailer will work but I don't think you'll find the holding power to be enough. They'll hold just fine at first but once a bit of force is applied to the rail it could come out. A large dog could easily work out a rail that's only held with brads.
Wolf6151 Go with a framing nailer. If you have a DEWALT 20 volt drill go with the DEWALT 20 volt cordless framing nailer. As long as you have a charged battery available it will fire nails all day long and no air hose or compressor to drag around. Ron
I wouldn't use a nail gun for prehung doors. 3" screws in predrilled holes is the way to go(drilled with a tapered bit and countersink). It will allow you to countersink the screws and then fill those in with a paintable caulk. One challenge with nails is that if you don't get the door plumb, it's a lot harder to back out the nail to make adjustments. If you insist on using a nail gun, I would go with a 15ga finish nailer - one that can accommodate 2-1/2" nails. Another difference between screws and nails is spacing. With 3" screws you probably use 3-4 on each side of a standard door (more if using solid doors). Nails need to be spaced about 16" apart on both sides. If you go with a split jam door, the 15ga nails aren't a bad option and probably just as good as screws. You'll need to install nails in both the main and split jambs and then drive a nail through the door stop (which goes through both the main and split jambs). After you get your doors installed, don't forget the trim. You could use the same 15ga gun but with shorter nails (twice as long as the trim thickness) or you could go with a smaller head size and use an 18ga gun. Good luck!
If it is trim being attaching to drywall with wood behind it I would use a finish nailer (16 gauge). Nailing trim such as shoe molding to wood use a brad nailer (18 gauge). The holes are smaller. I have also used a brad nailer to attach trim to a wall but I used caulk on the back to act as a glue.
Yes a crown stapler can be used for crown molding. But the reason it’s called a crown stapler is because of the crown in the Staples. A Brad Nails recalled because of the head design, pin nailer because of the design of the projectile also. It is the head Of the projector that determines the name of the tool
Finish nails have more holding power as they are a larger gauge. This can sometimes be counter-intuitive because brads will typically have a larger head than finishing nails. Brads are good for very thin material or in cases where you need to temporarily tack something up before a different type of fastener is used. Also, if finish nails start splitting your material you can move down to the brads to possibly avoid the splitting.
Thank you for this video. I got a small question - i need to install wooden plates on my walls. Can a nail gun penetrate regular walls made of blocks? its not concrete
i dont wanna sound stupid, but in Israel all construction blocks are made from the same material, so im not sure what u mean. these are completely regular building walls
I'm not familiar with the materials used in Israel. In the US, when we hear "blocks" that typically means concrete blocks. You said it wasn't concrete so what material are they?
im sorry, im pretty ignorant about this subject and the English words to describe it. Yes, the blocks are made of concrete, but in Israel when we say concrete it means the supporting walls of a building, full of concrete. So yeah, hollow blocks of concrete
Okay, now I understand. Thanks for clarifying. A framing nailer can definitely penetrate a concrete block, however, the nails don't hold in the block very wall. Also, there's a risk that you might crack the block. I would recommend drilling into the block and using either a screw designed for concrete or a concrete anchor. There are many options out there.
Prices are all over the map. You can get a three piece set from a big box store for as little as $120. If you only use them occasionally, this can be a cost effective approach. If you go with the professional tools, you can pay over $400 per nail gun. I've upgraded a number of my guns and have paid about $150-200 per nail gun.
