BYKSKI RTX3090 ACTIVE BACKPLATE | UNBOX + INSTALL WB + CHECK TERMO-PADS 

thanks a lot for the kind words!

I am glad that I helped, I wish the temperatures as low as possible: P

here most depends on the thickness and the degree of compression of the thermo-pads - they must be perfectly matched to the millimeter. Then, in the second place, I would only say that it depends on the quality of the thermo-pads (W / mK parameter), it is best not to use the thermo-pads below 10W / mK.

Since then, I have not replaced termalpads, the GDDR6X temperature remains unchanged 74-80'C depending on whether the window in the room is open or closed, the graphics work 24/7. The only thing I changed is a different motherboard, processor, RAM memory and a new water block for the processor with nickel-plated fast connectors. here is the latest RTX3090 test in 4K in game COD:VG with temp GPU/MEM/VRM, the specification of new components is in the description below the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y9dBU5Q2Og4.html

I'm glad you found my tutorial useful. your 88'C memory at 118MH / s is working, probably because you have 1x 280mm cooler - it's best to change to 1x360mm or add a second 280mm cooler to the loop for me on 105MH / s there is probably something around 65'C too in the future, I plan to buy a MORE-420 (a very large cooler), I wonder what the xd temperatures will be then, maybe I will add a second D5 pump If you have any questions, feel free to answer, on my channel you will also find the Zotac RTX3090 test in the COD: WZ game in 4K resolution

@@DiegoGAMEtv what speed do you run your fans at? I have mine at about 60%. They're Arctic p14's

​@@abrahamsolis9760 i have 4x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM all run at 75% around 1500RPM Arctic P14 is now the most cost-effective fans in the price / quality category for radiators and heat sinks - a good choice~!

Thanks for the kind words :] I have a slightly different graphics card, in the description under the video I wrote that I have: "Zotac GeForce RTX 3090 Gaming Trinity", it is a delicately modified reference design RTX3090 my block is called "N-ST3090XG-TC" and probably it's also version "V2" (1:42) if you bought "N-RTX3090H-TC-V2" then according to the instructions it fits for Dell RTX3090

1.) this is how I used the screw springs (time: 23:30) 2.) thermal pads 2.0mm? a bit strange, as the factory ones from "BYKSKI" are smaller, they are exactly 1.8mm (time: 2:07)

@@DiegoGAMEtv thank you, also for screws not in bykski manual, did you use washer ?

@@_pvn of course I used the washers

It comes with a 1.8mm cooling pad. I asked the official customer service and they said that 1.5 can also be used.

codzik na 200fps :P

If you want to build it on water cooling... ...I not have see in the offer of shops [terminals] connect 8x blocks (i.e. 4 blocks with an active backplate)

1. dzięki :) 2. Gigabyte RTX3090 Gaming OC - dużo było wadliwych sztuk, grafiki padały po paru miesiącach, ogólnie to lepsza karta od mojego ZOTACA RTX3090 TRINITY 3. wątpię że grubość termo-padów będzie taka sama... suwmiarka + szczelinomierz i jedziesz 4. wszystkie dokładne grubości termopadów FABRYCZNYCH BYSKI jak i termopadów GELIDA masz w opisie jak i na filmie 5. po prawie 2-miesiącach dalej tak samo trzyma temperatury i jest GIT, chodzi całą dobe xd

@@DiegoGAMEtv2. Kartę mam już jakiś czas. Jest OK - tylko te ch...we temp. VRAM. 3. Korci mnie żeby założyć oryginalne Bykski i sprawdzić jaka będzie różnica. 4. Przeoczyłem info o grubości oryginalnych - sorry. Dam znać jak mi poszło. Na razie czekam na chińczyka.

@@pumex1365 no jakie tam max temperatury pokazuję GPU_Z?

@@DiegoGAMEtv ram w stresie throtluje a w grach ok. 80C. Rdzeń zadziwiająco chłodny na stockowych ust. Nie przekracza 70c czasem wentyl tylko się mocniej bujnie. Kupiłem z myślą o zalaniu ale nie miałem weny tworczej na jakiś ciekawy bulid.

@@pumex1365 1.) 80'C dla GDDR6X to normalna temperatura podczas pracy, one mają wytrzymałość do 110'C, potem throttlują, 2.) 70'C na gpu to podobnie jak u mnie gdy była wcześniej na powietrzu (poprzednik filmik powietrze vs. blok wodny jedno-stronny) 3.) już rozplanowałeś te wodowanie 3090?

1. right right 2. At that time, HWinfo was the only one that had the appropriate update to check the temperature of GDDR6X memory

I'm glad that my video helped, that's why I published it to help others, if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer: P.

@@DiegoGAMEtv ow thanks a lot for replying! I actually have indeed a couple of questions! 1) I noticed you used gelid extremes pads. I have thermalrights' and I've read an user on Reddit mentioning the gelid ones are much softer and compress better than the thermalright ones. Do you think the gelid is indeed better for that reason? 2) I have just a single 85x45mm pack of 1.5mm pads (and plenty 1.0mm). I was considering using the stock pads if I dont get enough for the VRMs, and also for the back caps, do you think the provided thermal pads are good enough for that? 3) is your zotac trinity the non-oc version? Mine is and bykski official site only mentions the OC variant. Was wondering if there are any differences in the PCB. 4) what are the model of those quick disconnects? I bought bykski's and they leaked badly. 5) (extra) do you think with this wc we would be able to flash our zotac with a 375w or even 390w BIOS without crash and overcurrent issues or better leave it stock? Ill be mouting my zotac with a 280mm bykski radiator together with a 5900x. Hope a single rad is enough but i May add an extra 120mm rad if needed. Thanks a lot.

@@sephirotic87 ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 1. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: no absolutely not, you do not need to use Gelids Ultimate, these are already extreme thermo-pads, thermo-pads with a thermal conductivity of 10-12W / mk for VRAM are enough for you, while for VRM power elements, even the factory ones with BYKSKI are enough. Another RU-vid used thermo-pads from Thermalright odyssey and outperformed those Gelidy Ultimate. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 2. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: as I wrote above in point 1, you don't need to choose better thermo-pads for VRM. On graphics like RTX3070Ti / RTX3080 / RTX3080Ti / RTX3090, you need to focus on how to cool the VRAM GDDR6X memory in the most effective way, the best method is first on the memory "t-Global Technology TG-PP-10 Silicone Thermal Putty" and then on thermo-pads from gelid ultimate and you can get even 50-60'C on memories at max load. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 3. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Yes, my version is also NON-OC. these versions are the same, the TDP is blocked anyway, the water block fits. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 4. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: EK-QDC (Quick Disconnect Coupling) www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-qdc-10mm-black *the best quick couplers on the market are currently made by the KOLANCE brand. koolance.com/quick-disconnect-couplings ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 5. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: my friend has already done it and the bios works fine up to 370W, it is a tiny boost to the power limit. Most importantly, you need to know which bios to upload. As for power standards, the max is: / PCIE to 75W / 8-pin PSU to 150W / 8-pin PSU to 150W / max = 375W that's why I think you won't pull 390W from two 8-pin plugs ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 6. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 1x 280mm cooler? hahaha mission not possible, in my case, 2x 280mm coolers are not enough to cool the i9-9900KS + RTX3090, the water flows a little warm at load, the fans howl at 100% and the whole set is 10-15'C too much here effectively the minimum I would recommend 2x 360mm coolers

@@DiegoGAMEtv Thanks a lot for your replies, I can't find those QD in my country, guess I'll do it the hard way. I watched a video from optimum tech where he drove an unvervolted 3090 + 10700k with a single 280mm and it ran under 60c under gamiung. If the 280 isn't enough, I'll take the CPU out of the loop and put it in an air cooler.

@@sephirotic87 fire up the official water cooling configurator on the EKWB website www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/ fill in the form, pay attention to point number 3. and expand \ / expert mode at the bottom there you will see how much heat your GPU + CPU generates and at what temperature the liquid will cool your pc.

yes 30'C

it is possible that there was a liquid leakage from the block (the minimum amount that is hard to notice), there was a short circuit and the fuse on the graphics card blown or the power supply detected a short circuit on the GPU and therefore cut off the power, I think ... And when you left the graphics all night, the voltage completely went off the fuses, so it restarted (there I think) I'm not an electronics engineer and I can't advise here either

​@@DiegoGAMEtv Well I let the whole PC being blasted with a desk fan and a heater for over a whole day and tried reinstalling the card. I noticed my Asus X570 chipset cooler barely touches the card bottom block preventing it to insert properly if the RGB cable is coming from the bottom. I move the cable away and pushed it harder and tried to boot it and voíla, it has been working flawlessly for 2 days now, all thanks to your video. Tempes are good, but we are in winter right now, and ambiet is pretty low at 20c, I imagine when summer comes back here in Brasil and temps get higher than 27c then the 280mm radiator may struggle to keep temperatures nice, I may consider adding a second 120mm radiator before that happens. Right now water temp is between 39~41c Cheers

not all ... in RTX3080 10GB on the other side (backplate) there are no 12 memory cubes, there will be thicker thermocouples

Yes, it can be a 1.5mm thermo-pads, but one that has compression properties up to 1.0mm or even less ... in the description under the video, note what thickness of the thermo-pads was used

dzięki xd

it depends what set you have chosen, bykski I offer 2 different RGB connections, incl. 12v RGB (4-pin) or 5v aRGB (3-pin) 2:05 in the BYKSKI kit there is an [Y] splitter attached (it's on the right - in the photo next to the top of the block) I chose a 12v RGB (4-pin) model, and connected it like this: 2x connectors (4-pin) from the upper and lower block, then [Y] splitter and then one connector (4-pin) to the motherboard

byś musiał z chińczykiem gadać na ali czy ci osobno sprzeda

32:00 retrofit summary, result of memory temperatures

jak dasz za grube pady wtedy rdzeń będzie miał za słaby docisk i sie zacznie przegrzewać, generalnie to wszystkie pady muszą być idealne dla tych grafik... sprawdzałem

@@DiegoGAMEtv co do grubszych to tak, zgadzam się bo przerabiałem to na 1080 ti i temp rdzenia o 12C podskoczyly, ale np jak zamiast na vrm dasz 1mm a nie 1.5mm to też będzie ok :)

1.) quick couplers are EK-QDC 10mm Black (unfortunately they have already been withdrawn from production) 2.) Liquid metal is a bit better ... but it damages surfaces too much and there is a risk that it will leak out

@@DiegoGAMEtv ну не знаю, к меди и алюминию он агрессивен, а к поверхности чипа ГП и никелю не особо. У меня и на ЦП и на ГП работает отлично.

also heard about it from Frame Chasers

So the putty >> the pads> I literally swapped with trial and error 5-6 times I opened up my card (need to get new screws soon I think) So one Putty is enough with this Bykski? Also does it have metal on the back plate or just metal? I can't tell how can it cool the back efficiently without metal on the back?

@@johnyoung9845 the whole back plate is nickel plated copper. you will probably need around 50g jar for the whole card. Just make a ball of putty and stick it to the vrms and vrams.

Not to be rude. But that is not considered good performance. That means your delta over water temp is 21C. Meaning your GPU is running 21C hotter than your water temp.

@@videocardzrule354 it's good considering the gelid thermal pads could even reach 80°C. So getting 54°C using thermal putty compared to above 80°C with gelid pads is good performance

specify which minute and second and more precisely what it is about

2. Zotac GeForce RTX 3090 Gaming Trinity

Yeah, I know, I've seen their offer

the water block in the video is compatible only with ZOTAC, you have to check the BYKSKI offer if there is your EVGA

32:05 tutaj temperatury mistrzu

thanks, dont have TG

then what I bought a two-sided water block and thermalpads for a total price of $ 160.... now it will probably cost more......anyway, I do not regret the temperature dropped significantly, and the equipment earned a living :P

mam też RTX3080 i backplate nagrzany sporo jest, tak czy siak chłodzenie kanapką ma zastosowanie dla 80 / 80Ti , nie tylko 90...

@@DiegoGAMEtv tak, ale backplate aktywny był głównie przewidziany do chłodzenia kostek dram po drugiej stronie 3090 bo one miały tam naprawdę piekło. Każdy tył karty się grzeje skoro są na niej zamontowane takie elementy wydzielające ciepło ale nie jest to aż tak wysoki temp żeby trzeba było też tył chłodzić :D No oczywiście bajerancko to wygląda bez 2 zdań :D

no tak na cewki, zawsze odrobinkę temperatury zejdzie i przy okazji piszczenie przy b.dużych fpsach wyciszy

@@DiegoGAMEtv to na własną odpowiedzialnosc chyba bo tak sie nie robi ... Te komponenty nie maja przewidzianego kontaktu z coldplatem ktory ma kanaly wodne.. tylko sam metal i bez nawiewu to te kondzioszki sie tam gotują opatulone padem🙄

​@@albertwesker4266 wydaję mi się że jesteś w dużym błędzie, przecież przez blok 30:24 przepływa strumień cieczy co zbiera ciepło z całości, po za tym ta karta już przepracowała tysiące godzin bez problemów i w dalszym ciągu jest przydatna

@@DiegoGAMEtv gdyby tak bylo kazdy by tak opatulal komponenty. No ale jak Ci dziala to sie cieszyc...po prostu takich rzeczy nie widzialem jeszcze na serwisie a widzialem naprawde spore mutanty zrobione z gpu 🤣🤣

@@albertwesker4266 ale gdybym tego termo-pada tam nie dał to i tak by tam powietrze się nie dostawało bo blok typu full-cover w całości zakrywa PCB i dodatku jest to blok dwu-stronny... W serwisie to pewnie wszystko robią zgodnie z procedurami... powiedz mi lepiej kiedy nastąpi ERA bez głośnych cewek w każdej grafice? bo jak na razie to loteria raz nie słyszalna a raz piszczy na cały pokój, i dziwne też że producenci się nie wstydzą ładować piszczące cewki do kart z segmentu premium.

what?