I found these videos by accident and have watched up to Episode 5. This is the most perfect C3 restomod I’ve ever seen! We have a ‘79 with VB&P GT suspension, Edelbrock infused Jasper 350 with a BowTie Overdrives 700R4 and future mods include Wilwood brakes under stock wheels/tires, Dakota RTX gauges and VintageAir. I’d love to go up to an LS3 but I just don’t have the budget for that. The best part of this project is that you left the exterior unmolested save for the tasteful application of C6 flags and C7 Stingray badges. Looking forward to watching the remainder of the series.
My 76 L-82 is the original "canary yellow".... seriously considering changing it to the modern corvette yellow. I have some research to do, still... but I think it was called "Velocity Yellow" in 2002. Other than that..going to keep it pretty much "factory". I do have the Hooker "Outlaw" sidepipes..and plan to keep it a sidepiped car...maybe a modern style, though. Awesome work...liking the mods and changes to appearance on yours.
really, really well done on the vids and the car, I've been watching these all day. where did you get the knowledge to do the paint and body yourself... i don't know if i would ever attempt this myself
Thanks! I started doing paint and body as a kid on my first car because I couldn’t afford to pay anybody. Just a lot of practice. I also used to work in a Corvette restoration shop for a short while also. Glad you liked the vids!
John, you mentioned that you used later c3 sport mirrors. Did you just remove the remote adjustment cables? I don’t see any adjustment knobs on your door panels. Thank you sir for sharing your projects with us.
Actually, I left them on and they’re just laying in the bottom of the door. I can adjust the mirror with my fingers but eventually I’m gonna have to do something. If I leave them like that they’ll probably corrode. I just haven’t figured out what I’m gonna do yet.
Where did you source the gas strut hood prop? All the kits I see are for the 1973 to 1982 “long hoods” with the separate wiper incorporated into the hood.
@@C3Mods No problems with the gas strut being "too strong" making it difficult to close the hood since it was designed for the longer/heavier hood? What was wrong with the hood bracket that came with the kit? Holes didn't align with existing holes in the hood?
@@ronwong7030 yeah, the holes didn’t line up. I actually think I used the bracket it came with, I just welded the holes up and red ripped them. The strut isn’t too strong at all. Works perfect.
That’s why my bracket is grey and not powered coated black like it came in the kit. I had to weld and grind and drill. Then I just painted it to match everything else under the hood.
Was wondering because the bond product you show there says not for use with GM’s new sheet molded body panels but isn’t the body of the C3 SMC? I used epoxy resin and not fiberglass resin
The bonding agent I used will still work for 73 to 82 to bond the panels to the binding strips, but for for panel repairs you can’t use the fiberglass strand mat.
I have external battery poles so I can power up a dead battery if I have to. The brand of opener I used is SPAL USA. But they’re all pretty universal. The one I have can do multiple functions. It has a four button remote that can be configured to do 8 different things. All I use is 2 functions. One for each door. A lot less wiring for sure!!! Lol.
I'm doing a frame off resto on my 69 vert right now. I plan to paint it myself in my garage. Did you paint yours in the garage or a booth? What brand of paint and model gun did you use? BTW car looks incredible.
Thanks for the compliment! I did paint it in my shop where I did the videos. I covered the floor in heavy plastic tarp and I covered everything else in the shop with contractors plastic sheet that I got at Lowe’s. My guns are basic Colbalt guns I also bought at Lowe’s, but I had to buy different tips for them because newer paint is a lot thinner and requires a smaller tip. I was able to get a really smooth finish, but I still cut and buffed it out. I would recommend spending the money and getting better guns. Many on the market, the the old stand by is DeVilbiss. I used the highest quality PPG paint and spent almost $2k just on the paint alone. That includes the primer, base, clear and all the flex agent and gardeners and catalyst. The gallon of white was $500 by itself. All it takes is time and patience. If you rush, it will turn out poorly. After I had the car completely prepped and ready for paint, I let it sit in the shop overnight so all the dust and dirt would settle. The next day I misted the tarp with the garden hose, kept the doors closed and used a REALLY good respirator. I have an attic fan in my shop I used as an updraft, but I left it off while painting so that it wouldn’t create dust in the air. I used it to vent the shop in between coats after they flashed.
Thanks! I actually picked up the fuel cap at auto zone many many years ago when it was the rage to put them on everything! I think it may have actually been for an F150. I gave all my receipts to the new owner, so I dont remember the brand. Just find one you like and make it work. FYI, be aware of the seam from the storage compartment on the underside.
Ok you suckered me in with the paint ! LOL . But what a great car with detailed info ! Please let me know what the electronics were for the wiper door . IE -what kind of actuator , where you got it and the wiring . I would be happy with a toggle switch to open it ! I'm about to order a hood I really want the right one NOT the long one .Help a Brother out !
I don’t have any of the info on the car anymore because I gave it to the new owner. But it’s just a 2” linear actuator with a 25lb pull. I got rid of all the factory wiring and used a kit from American Autowire. I had to have a friend wire the wiper door because I could figure out how to make the GM window switch work, but he did. It requires 2 relays. But a normal switch is an easy wire. I kept the factory micro switch so if you turn the wipers on without the cowl door open, they won’t work. So that’s all just like factory. All you really need to do is wire a switch. I made the bracket for the actuator from the factory bracket that holds the vacuum can. I just cut the ends of and welded extensions on.
John... 1st, I LOVE your car and the work you've done. Amazing! 2nd, great call on the pneumatic arm for the hood. How is it holding up over time? Is that little thing enough to keep the heavy hood up in a breeze, do you think? And might it be possible to put another one on the passenger's side? Lastly, where did you get that pneumatic rascal and/or what's the part # or size? Thanks!!!
Anna, the strut rod for the hood was a kit I bought. I believe it’s for 73-82 maybe? I had to modify the bracket to fit my hood. It comes in black powder coat, but after it modified it I painted it grey to match everything else. It does hold up very well in moderate breezes, but a strong gust will slam it shut. In order to put one on the other side you would first need to cut a panel out of the fiberglass to put a steel backing plate underneath to have something to mount it to and to reinforce the glass hood so it doesn’t break it in half. I had thought of doing it, but the one does such a good job I decided it wasn’t worth the effort. I think it would twist the hood if you closed it from one or the other corners. You can find it on Corvettemods.com. It’s $179. It’s called 1973-1982 Gas Hood Support Strut. I think I got mine from Eckler’s.
@@C3Mods Holy moly $180 for one of those??? O,O WOW. They sure are screwing us on Corvette parts, I think. You can get two of those, with brackets already attached, for $18 on Amazon. I might do some comparisons and buy a set of those and see if I can fit them to mine lol.
Check Zip Corvette parts or Corvette Central also Corvette Mods. They have them. Around $180ish. I had to modify the bracket to fit my car. They are listed for 73-82 long hoods.
I have a front end stripped down to fiberglass and i am worried about oil leaching out. You stated that gel coat will eliminate this problem. Can you confirm that, so my worries will go away?
One thing I didn’t mention in my video is that you obviously need to clean the bare fiberglass before you put anything over it. I use Toluene. I bought it at Ace hardware. I got a couple gallons and went over the whole car. I used nitrile gloves and a lint free rag to get all the contaminants off the glass as much as possible before gel coating it. And yes, if you gelcoat over properly prepped fiberglass, nothing will leach through. It will take the path of least resistance and work its way out the backside. It’s a lot of work, but worth it in the end.
Also, FYI I painted my car in 2014 and the finish is still flawless! I used a lot of air tools doing the body work that spit oil out the exhaust all over the body and I don’t have any blemishes in the paint.
@@C3Mods After you sprayed the gel coat, did you have to board sand it straight, wet sand? Grit to prep for primer. Did you shoot epoxy primer? Any explanation in the process would be helpful for me. I am going to go with gel, vice epoxy for extra sealing. Will be a while before I get to that stage, still have panels to replace and work.
Yes, I realize that. What I’m referring to is actually the heavy coat of resin that is sprayed onto the molds before the glass strands are sprayed on top of it. I realize it’s the wrong terminology, but it’s become a habit when talking about fiberglass. I’m trying to convey that once you sand beyond that initial layer of resin and expose the glass strands your problems will start to multiply without proper prep work.
It almost seemed like you knew what you were talking about until you said stripped it to the Gelcoat. Corvettes Never came from the factory with Gelcoat on the body.
Yes, I realize that. What I’m referring to is actually the heavy coat of resin that is sprayed onto the molds before the glass strands are sprayed on top of it. I realize it’s the wrong terminology, but it’s become a habit when talking about fiberglass. I’m trying to convey that once you sand beyond that initial layer of resin and expose the glass strands your problems will start to multiply without proper prep work.
