What difference did you notice with the fuel filter before you changed it? I just had to replace my fuel pump and sending unit. I just need to get around doing the fuel filter.
I just figured it was the original with 61,000 miles and would be restricting flow. You do not want to run an engine too lean. It's easy enough to change with the right tools, although mine was a K&N that I had a Chevy dealer install.
There is a much easier way to go about this namely on how it should be pulled apart. - Two thumb screws hold the air cleaner assembly down, take those out. - Disconnect the MAF and IAT electrical connectors. - Loosen the screw for the intake duct at the throttle body ONLY, NOT AT THE AIR BOX. - Lift the entire air intake assembly out in one piece. - Remove top plate screws and lift off the top plate. - Install your snake oil device and use stud lock on the bolt. - DO NOT use loctite on the top plate cover, use some assembly anti-seize. They will not just come loose. - Tighten to around 4 ft-lbs. - Replace air intake assembly, tighten the screw clamp at the throttle body, and replace thumb screws in air box. - Plug in the MAF and the IAT. It seems to be running quite nice, but sounds to me like you may need to need to pull that throttle body off and clean it, remove the base, and thoroughly clean the IAC path. Clean and lubricate the IAC, or simply just replace it and keep that used one as a spare. While you're at it ditch the coolant flow through the bottom of the throttle body. The base assembly screws are around 4 ft-lbs, use anti seize lube, and the 4 large throttle body bolts are 19 ft-lbs. If you can find a stock factory MAF sensor grab it and put that in there, looks like an aftermarket one in there now. Callaway tested these on the Supernatural 383 LT1s and found they made about 1-2 horsepower difference, which lets be honest, is not a change at all. If it doesn't make a difference to a heavily modded LT1 stroker like that, it aint gonna change a thing on your car. What you're feeling is placebo, if anything at all. Not sure what your rear end ratio is, but it sounded a bit like a 2.59:1 given how wide the gap was between 1st and second, very hard to tell in a video. If you really want to feel a difference, change it to a 3.07 or a 3.31, 3.54 will be ok if you're not doing miles of highway driving. There really is no free lunch on the LT1 that is so simple as just add a little piece and gain anything. GM were not as stupid as people try to make out. Looks like a really nice car though, so take appropriate care of it!! :)
Thanks for your excellent comments. I did not notice the MAF sensor being aftermarket, and will take a look. Your were right the rear end ratio it's 2.59:1. The feel of more power probably just from driving it more and adding some fuel system cleaner. This is my 3rd C4 and my most tame. The other two were 1996's.
@@hemispherecars5616 no problem at all. Ditch that 2.59:1 rear end, LT1s like to rev a bit more than L98s, and LT1s don't like those tall gears like L98s do. 94-96 LT1s are essentially the same, differences are so minor it has no effect on how they will run
Under drive pulley? Use only the lower pulley do NOT use the one on the alternator. I did the airfoil mod and it hardly mattered compared to the pulley. Next I did cat back and it was a HUGE increase in power.
I have a new MSD coil sitting in my closet. I did an Accel coil on my last C4, but going with the MSD since if I ever need an Optispark Distributor it will match and is vented.
Malheureusement, toutes les voitures à essence seront bientôt interdites dans l'UE et aux États-Unis ! En France, ils ont une nouvelle loi interdisant les voitures ICE appelée SCHLABOUBVE et en Suisse la loi HESCHLAVVO ! Dans les pays scandinaves, il y aura bientôt une loi dite SMORVERBIDEN)
That will take a long time in the USA and there is a lot of research here on hydrogen vehicles. Views are changing on vehicle types, but who knows. Thank you for commenting.
