Thank you for going over this. Car has left me stranded multiple times as it's my daily. Will be doing that this weekend. If you're ever worried about someone stealing the vette, I recommend installing a fuel kill switch somewhere that is not obvious.
So I watched the VATS video Thanks very helpful. I have a 99 FRC and need to go down the same path. Have you disabled the active handling? If so can you explain how as the parts to keep these systems alive have become discontinued.
I deleted the active handling and the ABS since they are actuated by the same pump. I removed the ABS pump completely and ran new brake lines straight to the wheel. I also added a manual proportioning valve in the rear brake line to make sure the rear didn't lock up first. That left the ABS and BRAKE lights in the dash on so I removed the bulbs from the instrument cluster. Pulled all the fuses that had to do with ABS and eventually pulled all the wiring. The only message I get after removing all this is "service vehicle soon" when I first start it and pushing the reset button makes that go away until the next start.
@@TomPeters-d4x I disconnected everything that hooked to the EBCM including the data line. I did have the lights on the dash but I just removed the bulbs. I didn't get any messages on the DIC about servicing the ABS or traction control.
Is there any reason at all not to just put the resistor in at the BCM? There was an abrupt edit in the beginning where you started to say something about this and then jump-cut to the fuel pump being cut off(?) I have seen a couple videos of people bridging the purple/white & white/black wires at the clip where they connect to the BCM. Also, someone on Corvette Forum recommended I cut those wires leading back to the ignition switch entirely after inserting my resistor at the BCM, so that if for some reason the resistor on the key started working with the sensors in the key tumbler, they wouldn't run in parallel, or cancel each other out, or some damned thing. Any thoughts?
That was an abrupt edit but I was talking about shorting across the theft relay to get it to crank but if the VATS was still unhappy it would shut off fuel. I mentioned putting the resistor at the BCM at 12:30. That is an excellent place to put it if you want and definitely do cut the wires going back to the key. I'm not sure what the wire colors are but I would make sure to look at a wiring schematic before doing it.
Hello, I have a problem with my automatic C5, it starts fine but when I put D and press the accelerator, it turns off, the engine dies, it won't let me move the C5 more than 2 miles.
@@xpsgarageI’m getting this message but, my car won’t even start, I hear the usual click of the relay on the passenger side, but once you turn the key nothings happens and the message of “pull the key 10 seconds appears. I want to mention I replace the steering column with a z06 one that may be my problem or not?😅
@@Spxrc That's kind of weird since that sounds like 2 different problems. The pull key is the column lock and no crank could be VATS. Do you have an LCM5 module installed?
