Cab corners and many patch panel installations can be done with JB Weld or 3M Panel Adhesive as an alternative to welding or rust repair with fiberglass cloth. This video demonstrates that process. / @lakesideautobody
I've repaired several panels in this way. I've used both the JB Weld and two were done with LePage PL9000 construction adhesive, which is a lot less money available in a 300 ml and an 850 ml caulking tube. I used self taping metal screw for all the temporary attachments and drilled all the holes prior to applying the adhesive. . This way the holes are sealed with adhesive when the screws are run in. The seam is recessed while the adhesive is still pliable When the adhesive is set, all the screws are removed so that the attachment is held only by the adhesive bond. Proceed with bondo, primer, color coat and clear coat. The oldest project is now 5 years old and is standing up at least as well as a welded repair patch. You'd be surprised by how many steel and plastic panels on new vehicles are assembled with adhesives, rather than being welded.
I'm used to welding, but the heat from the welder ultimately leads to rust down the line. This repair is far superior if done correctly! Keep in mind that most new cars are using a lot of adhesives in the manufacturing! Adhesive products have greatly improved in recent years! Thanks for the informative post!
It's a cheap, simple alternative to welding and far more effective than building up layers of fiberglass or Bondo when patching. Great to keep an old vehicle looking respectable, but any level of perfection can be achieved since the end result really depends more on the finishing steps that follow the installation of the patch.
You can use JB weld with a butt joint if you use a bonding strip in the back the same way corvette panels are glued together. It will give your panels the level plane needed for finish. Door bottoms as well. Minimal floor pan patches too!! But if you can weld that is by far the best way to go. Great videos! 👍🏻
This is a viable option,on the 88-98 chevys for sure. Welding to the crappy factory sheet metal just starts a new place for rust to start. Wasnt a year and it restarted on my 92. Some guys use countersink rivets.
Actually I believe that this would work great as I have used JB weld on several projects like this and it is very strong once it sets up. I even used it once on an air compressor fitting and it holds up to 175 PSI all day everyday.
Literally was thinking of doing this then thought someone else must have tried it and came on RU-vid to check.. thank you for taking time to make this video just completed my sill / rocker repair today and I'm very impressed so far at the strength of it. Much better than covering it in fiberglass in my opinion. IL make sure to leave feedback in June 2020 to let others know how it's held up to a Scottish winter / MOT. But so far it's solid. Obviously welding is the preferred option but I don't have a welder at the moment really looking forward to seing how this holds up.
Paul Mccully you live in Scotland before I left to come to Canada I lived in England they used salt in Canada too my point is oil the panels it stop the rust I do my car and truck annually the entire car and truck but not exhaust, or manifold or catalytic converters or brakes . I drill 1/2 inch holes in sills rockers and pillars and voids I do doors inner panels fenders trunk or boot and rear quarter panels hood suspension mounts floors with a garden sprayer and use a respirator rated for oil mist
@@nickking1510 great use for old oil, and i agree the subframe has oil on it from an old oil leak at engine and when you wipe it off the metal is litrally brand new under neath good shout,
UPDATE!!! just checked my repairs today after 10 months very impressed how well this has held up. two sections i will be welding new stuff in as i would prefer seam welded on those particular panels BUT THE STILL LOOK GREAT,, but the jb welded part in my wheel arch is staying, its absolutly solid, only sprayed it with bilt hamber zinc primer and its as clean as the day i put it on. in some circumstances i reckon this is better than welding. for example you dont wreck the factory e coat due the heat from welder etc,
After digging out the expanding foam in my project car quarter panels with bread knives, forks, and spoons I came to find a nice thick grey solid line of what looks like jb weld. It complicates things but since it's a project to learn on, I really have nothing to lose trying to fix it. I'm guessing I should either find a replacement panel if possible and weld it in or get creative and shape a panel myself and weld it in. Looks like it's finally time for me to buy a welder and give it a try. I was originally going to use composites to fix it but after seeing a hole in the floor panel, I should just do it the right way and weld a patch to really reenforce the floor area. Thanks for all your videos, I learn from them every time
You're welcome. You will love having a welder - there are a ton of other things you will use it for too. You'll be welding in no time :) Check this vid out for help welding: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1BYqLM_mY1s.html
I've been doing this for the past couple years now, it's way more cost effective than SEM, or, Fusor. JB Weld is about $16, vs.same amount of SEM that costs $45. Also, it seals out moisture, so your glass/bondo doesn't 'pop out' years later. I never liked welding then glassing, because I always saw it "move," and show the seams, some time later. It works well enough to get paid, but then you will see the customer vehicle again at some point, and your work, and even worse THEY WILL SEE IT!
So far so good - 2 winters - looks perfect. I'm actually surprised myself as I do like impact resistant panel adhesive usually like this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d21RkqTwRqs.html Sorry about the late reply :)
This was awesome. Subscribed! I didn't even know there was an option besides welding. Focused watching of videos like this on RU-vid make most trade school classes obsolete. 👍
@@LakesideAutobody Yeah, but not all videos are this well done. You have to know the skill AND how to make an interesting video. When I went to subscribe, I realized I was subscribed already, the "straight body lines" video you did with the bottom of the truck door was how I found your channel. Really well done videos! 💙
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet here is chamfering the edge of the overlapping panel. No kidding I don't remember where I read about this technique but I did it on a door bottom panel nine years ago. 22 gauge sheet metal repair piece that I fabricated myself and I was able to put a 1/4" bevel or "scarf" on the overlapping edge of it. Used a side grinder. Overlap was 3/4" JB weld squeezed out and wiped over the joining edges to a width of about 1". Block sanded and smoothed/feathered with lightweight body filler. NOBODY could see the repair when I was done. Nine years later in the rust belt and it still is invisible.
3M panel adhesive ... 03 superduty crewcab , cab corners , inner & outer rocker panels ... went with adhesion to the factory weld points. ( no its not 1" perimeter) just scar the metal real good and rivet accordingly, leaving the rivets . Works exelently , perfect for a 20 year old truck .
This is great news. I have a 1990 Chevy K3500 Extended Cab 1-Ton 4x4 Dually that I have to replace the cab corners on but I have not welded in over almost 40 years since shop class in school, lol. This gives me another alternative that I feel much more comfortable trying. Instead of painting the truck conventionally afterward I will be shooting the entire truck with Raptor tintable bed liner which will also help hide any unevenness in the panel seams and the replacement panels I ordered go all the way up to the horizontal moulding indent in the panel so that will also help hide the transition. Thanks for the tip. Tiem to go pick up some more pop rivets and a couple packs of JB Weld.
@@LakesideAutobody yes they are. I bought this one about a month ago. It is the only Chevy 1-Ton 4x4 Dually registered with the DMV in the state of Hawaii, and it only had 38,000 original miles on it, so it is well worth restoring.
@@LakesideAutobody Exactly. It also has a full length 8' bed on it so I am trying to convince the wife to put my casket in the back and bury me with it, lol.
Jerry,a few years ago,i used bondo glass,from walmart,for metal patches. i did the grinding,overlaping. I mixed,the bondo,putting it on both the patch,and the vehicle. then held the patch to car for about 2 minutes,it sets up quick. I did my sons 73 caddy,Hearst,a tracker,and my jeep wrangler, the bondo glass,comes out a army green color,when mixed,it is water proof,as well. after it dried,i sanded down the bondo,then used the pink bondo,to blend in everything in,then primer and paint. Its been about 2,5 yrs,and the patches are still on,and the cars are outside. And the state of Pa,usually has a lot of moister,outside. snow and rain. 3/9/23 next project is my 66 chevelle.
That's an excellent idea - I can't see why it would fail. I think that would make for a great video. I may just do that on this one truck I've been working on - it's volunteer work so I'm free to do what ever method I want. Thanks for your input Allen - have a good weekend :)
I'm going to try .. on a sample... to concave the area of contact before connecting. At least a little. I love you for making this video ‼👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 SUBSCRIBED ‼👍🏾
You can do it. Just keep at it. If you fail (which I did many times) - watch the videos again - try again and you'll be better. Let me know how it goes. Jerry
I bought a pneumatic tool that puts sn offset in the underlying panel. No need to hammer on the seam. Yay Harbor Freight! Thanks a lot. This makes perfect sense vs trying to weld very thin metal IMHO.😊
I worked in a semi truck autobody shop and they used a two part industrial strength epoxy adhesive. If you didn't wear latex or rubber gloves, it would stick to to your hands for a least a week.
i used panel adhesive 20 yr ago on S10 rocker panels still have the truck rockers are rotted where no adhesive BUT where adhesive was applied the metal is still good and still holding nothing worse than trying to weld marginal metal GREAT VIDEO
Good story... The seam will for sure last longer than the bottom of the new panel. I really feel that glue is probably the best way to go for rust repair. Sometimes though you have to weld. Thanks for the great story - those S10s and Ford Rangers were tough little trucks :)
I recently fixed a broken aluminum heater core inlet, still had 1/2" of the inlet, I pushed a 3" piece of galvanized conduit over it and glued in inside and out with JB Weld marine. I started the process in the freezing cold, I was desperate for heat! coated it 3 times allowing a day or more to cure, then I put the hose back on and I had heat again. I used a 3/4" copper pipe elbow to circumvent the heater core until I could fix it so it's holding so far! JB Weld is awesome! The "hack" you did seems like it might outlast a proper welded fix, simply because you have eliminated the inside weld corrosion problem and sealed everything up. Maybe spray everything inside with Penetrol? something I wanna try as well. But other thing, if there are a lot of holes from a sort of quick weld job, instead of welding up and grinding the holes, maybe just use JB Weld? But maybe the Bondo Glass is good enough without it?
Thanks so much. If you were lap bonding a long panel like a quarter panel for example, are you thinning the patch panel significantly when you grind it down to match the height of the existing panel it's bonded to?
No, you would tap the seams down a bit. In this case I was very careful not to tap too hard as I wasn't sure how the JB would handle it. I believe panel adhesive is more flexible so you would just grind the seams a little and tap them down then fill.
Great video as always i got a spot welding nozzle from eastwood i haven't tried it yet but you can use that without knowing how to weld it fits harbor freight flux core 125 mig welder i got the kit with the pliers
Jerry thank you so much for making all these videos i am learning so much you are the best teacher you can do so many repairs in so many different ways you explain everything parfect i am in the process of flipping vechiels and i see a ton of rusty trucks for sale on line can you do a veideo on how much rust is to much on a frame what rusty trucks are worth fixing and flipping is it worth it keep up the awesome videos
You're welcome - I appreciate the support and I'm glad the videos help you. Good suggestion on how much rust is too much - I'll write that down and try to get one uploaded like that. Trucks are good vehicles to flip. I'll be doing some rust repair vids on trucks this winter coming up so I think you'll enjoy them. Nice talking to you - let me know how your truck flipping is coming along every once in a while :)
Weld because it works every time. For example, sometime you have to manipulate the patch as you go (smacking it down while it's nice and hot from the welding). With glue the patch better fit perfect, and have no butt joints - Just my opinion though - plus I've always MIG welded patches so I'm partial to that method - Good question.
Good job there sir, Planing to do the same but for the wheel arch on my ram1500, also will rivet with nut rivets instead of pop rivet, I will also install fender flares on top, will see how it will turn out
again another great video. but I was wondering, why not knock it down before the jb cures, that way it wouldn't crack and it would form to the panel. I wouldn't get to aggressive with the grinder, it might soften the jb with the heat of the grinder. again thank so much for the great videos. gary
God bless you ‼♥️🇹🇹 Okay, i live in Trinidad. Shoping on Amazon for products to restore my Dads' 68 Cresta Vauxhall. Never didcar work before but, I'm very crafty. So, I'm thinking..🤔 and even joking to my son.. i should just adhere the panel with the bonding agent and fasten with bolts or by soldering ... and i 🤣😂😆. Keep waiting to purchase.. wel, wait no more. 🤗🤸🏽♀️
I think that's great. I will eventually have everything you need to know on my channel to paint cars and do some body work. Keep at it, ask tons of ?'s and you'll be a very proud of yourself no matter how it turns out. You get better every day :) Jerry
Great job! I want to try but not sure have the confidence in it too last. Would be an Ideal solution for as project car is in a field with no power point available. How did you get the panels both flat as patch over lapped dent in and fill?
I’m wondering whether this or 3M panel glue would be a better choice for repairs than welding where it is difficult for getting to the back side. Speculating that you may be able to prime/paint or otherwise rust proof the bare metal on the back/inside while it’s open, then proceed with the front metal replacement piece as you did with the gluing.
Here's a video on that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d21RkqTwRqs.html I would say auto body panel adhesive would be the better choice. That being said, I'm still driving this tuck and there have been no issues with this repair yet. Just gave it a real light coat of paint until I paint the whole truck and it has held up just fine - no cracks, no bumps, rust, nothing - just like when it was first done. If it's held up this long almost 2 years, it's going to be fine. Jerry
I've used both and there doesn't seem to be much difference, if at all. The panel adhesive is a bigger container and comes in the handy dual caulk tubes. It's handy, using the caulk gun but the gun is an added cost. In bigger panels, I flange it where possible so I don't have to disturb the metal around the bond.
Thank you for this video. I was wondering if this would work. I have to replace the rocker panels on my 2012 GMC Sierra. I bout the rocker covers and now have to cut out and wire brush out all the rusted metal. What do you suggest as a rust encapsulator for under the panel and the area around the rocker? I may even use spray foam once everything else is done to try to keep mud and sand from getting back up into the crevasses. I live up here in Maine and rust is a never-ending battle and I can not afford a new truck being on disability.
The best solution is to provide sufficient drainage so that the panel can drain and dry out inside. The do this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html Your repair will last a lifetime if you maintain your panels - can't let leaves, needles, dirt, salt, rust chunks build up inside the panels. It needs to look like an old oily valve cover on the inside - that oil will creep around and get everything greasy yet allow for drainage :)
Could you use JB weld to fill in screw/rivet holes, do you think? The area I'm considering using panel bond is in the middle of a panel with nowhere to hide screws or rivet heads. My thought was to use screws or rivets until the panel bond is set, remove the screws or rivets, possibly tap the holes in a little with a punch and fill with JB weld before body work. Seems reasonable to me.
You can do that or just tap the seam down and fill it. You don't have to fill the holes. Remember cars back in the 70-80's were built with tons of holes all the down the side of it to attach the chrome trim. It really won't cause a problem up high on the panel. Rust starts at the bottom where moisture and debris gather :)
It looks great on the outside. What do you do to the bare metal on the inside once your cab corner is sealed off. I believe welding is stronger, but your welds will rust on the backside where you have no access. Have you ever used composite rockers by Never Rust?
I've never used them but that's a great idea for a video. The key to the inside is to make sure the panel can drain and dry. Then after you paint and have put it all together, you can simply squirt some used motor oil in the panel to coat the very bottom of the panel as that's where the rust will begin again. It won't start on the side unless debris and salt water gets trapped in there keeping the side moist. The panels must drain and be allowed to dry. If you notice panels that are open (not enclosed) never rust out. Hope that helps a bit - thanks for the support I'll do a video in a couple of years on how this truck is holding up as it is my car trailer puller and I plan on keeping it - Thanks and have a good week :)
There is a train that runs through town - good ear! As for your trans tunnel, you could use panel adhesive too or even pop rivets with seam sealer between the metal. I once glued a whole metal floor is a van with metal roof adhesive and self tapping screws - it never moved again. No rust worries either as it was a large sheet of galvanized sheet metal. That's a real good option.
I bought a squeeze tube of 3M panel bond to do the cab corners on my 01 4dr. Ext. Cab. The cab corners are much smaller because of the rear doors. It did work great. I didn’t want to catch the interior on fire. Next I have to do the same repair panel in my Dads 98. I may give the JB Weld a Shit as panel bond is quite expensive.
RedWhiteAndBlueVideo I welded about 50 % and in back of cab I used panel epoxy and then covered all welds on my rockers after a light grinding and cleaning with j b weld the one that takes a day to harden I get it in big tubes in a box about $ 20 Canadian ( don’t use any quick cure epoxy unless it meant for panel bonding . I also used jb long time cure to attach a portion of fender on my 1976 vette some years back no problem no ghost lines in paint
RedWhiteAndBlueVideo lake side is correct oil the repair back side when paint is dry your repair will out last the car then ,better oil entire car doors trunk rockers hood fenders all lines keep it away from exhaust, cat , manifolds . In Ontario because of salt I do my car and truck yearly so does my son
I have a 2004 Tahoe,they all rust at the rear ¼ panels ,would powder coating be a good thing on the new panel and then grind down the areas that need to bond,also I think pounding it befor it hardens would not compromise the bond,,your thoughts...great vids..Dennis
You could try the powder coating the inside of the new panel - sure. As long as your new panel can drain and stay dry on the inside you'll be fine. That's why it rusted in the first place - it just stays moist and fills with debris in there then rusts out. You probably could get away with not even tapping the seam down. Auto sheet metal is literally 6 hairs thick which could easily be hidden or tapered out like a dry wall seam.
I use 3M panel adhesive on my hot rod and custom projects - can't pull it apart with a frame machine, the metal tears but the adhesive holds. Collison repair friend with 30 years in the business uses it whenever possible... told us about it and we use it instead of welding whenever possible.
Everyone does things different and you did a great job but I'd get a flange tool and flange the original metal so the patch doesn't stick up. It's pretty much ready for a little Bondo and then prime.
Would it be worth hammering the seam and rivets down before the jb weld sets? This would mitigate the risk of it cracking by doing it after it sets. I guess the added risk of doing it before is you might create a gap at the seam. What do you think?
Sorry about the late reply - yes you could try that. Or you could use impact resistant adhesive: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d21RkqTwRqs.html
@@LakesideAutobody It's a good idea, but be wary of panel distortion as you do it. If the panel springs away from the body then you would never get it looking right after the JB sets and there is a danger of squeezing too much JB out of the overlap.
I just installed a panel like that ok my Ford van behind the rear wheel cut the panel a bit smaller overlapped but I used silicone and rivers then used fiberglass bondo first by the time I finished cane out very good for a novice but I did not knock down as you show. How do you know how far yo whack it down?
That sort of comes with some practice. Basically there is nothing to worry about. If you didn't hit it hard enough you end up with a few high areas when sanding your filler but that's not a big deal. Just tap those high spots down and mud again. After a while you'll know about how hard to tap in all different types of situations - it's different every time BTW because of a lot of weird variables :)
I think you could go either way. If you ever try it while it's wet let me know if there were any negative results. You can use SEM impact resistant structural adhesive and never worry about it cracking when knocking your seams down. See this vid at 9 : 05 for more on that - www.ebay.com/itm/402721677377?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=402721677377&targetid=
Yes - that would work fine. A lot of shops are now using panel adhesives for rust repair which is great because of it's sealing properties. It does cost more and is a bit more time consuming than welding.
Sorry - I'm not getting what you are asking. The patch panel is put over the to factory panel or original sheet metal. Then you can tap that seam down slightly and fill. Let me know if this makes sense - if not ask more questions - Jerry
I put JB on a windows channel like 4 years ago I just pulled the window it was really green ish and soft I was kind of surprised and not in a good way.
@@LakesideAutobody hey bud any word on how well this held up? I'm having real bad luck getting this cheap little flux core chinesium welder dialed in and I was just gonna try this to avoid burning a bunch of holes through my patch panel.
@@MegaDysart This is my main daily driver and have driven it 2 winters with this repair. It's holding up just fine and I will do a update video on this truck when I finish it up. Been real busy with other videos lately but all the repairs on this truck have held up very well for two years now driving in the salt. Look for the update video fairly soon.
There is quite a few products from JB weld which one is the one you used for the repair panel , I want to make sure to use exactly what u used . Thanks for any input .
question. If u had used channeling tool and created a channel on cab corner would that have elimintated the need to "knock it down" and make fitting patch panel more forgiving
Yes you could do that - absolutely. I plan on making a video on rust repairs using a flange tool. You still may have a few tiny high spots but you can just tap those down if they show up through a skim coat of filler to cover the seam. It'll last forever - really.
I use the slow setting "original" formula hence slow dry JB Weld. The secret is clamp, clamp, clamp. Give it 24 hrs. To fully set up and it'll hold forever. Just finished patching a hole in my dad's jeep and it'll probably outlast the vehicle. Use a good fiberglass filler like duraglass over the seems first for extra waterproofing and your good to go on body fillers to finish. I quit welding them in as the heat seems to make them rust out faster than glueing them in.
Thanks a lot for the comment - a lot of body shops are gluing now as opposed to welding. I think that's really the best way if it can be perfected for all situations and patch panels.
Do you have one on doing rocker panels I have a 2001 Chevy S10 pick pick up ZR2 package is a package that I have to do rockers do rockers and it has the 3rd door on the driver's side please please comment back thank you very much this was a very good learning experience hope to see more of your videos
We have used 3M Panel Bond for about 4 years for rust repair on Chevy & GMC trucks. 3M or GM, Ford or Mopar will tell you where to weld & show you where to use panel bond. It is factory approved. Only downfall is curing time. They say 8-19 hours it is more like 24 hours. here is a cut & paste right from their website. 3M™ Panel Bonding Adhesive is intended for use in outer body, nonstructural panel attachment applications, including applications where panels are used in conjunction with welding and/or riveting. So try it if you don't have a welder.
I agree that bonding panels is best for non structural panel attachment. I wouldn't trust its' success for things like rocker panels or a step panel that is going to take a beating.
Ya you will be able to sand off those rivets and not worry about the JBweld letting go of the body metal. I been using JB weld to fix small engine blocks after they blow a rod thru the block and it hold under that kind of pressure and heat so a body panel would be nothing.
Yes. Not only does it hide the seam but the filler is a great buffer between the seam and the finish. None and you'll likely see the seam later on down the road.
I think it would work fine. Another alternative is automotive panel adhesive but it's a bit expensive. www.amazon.com/3M-08115-Panel-Bonding-Adhesive/dp/B000PEW4MI
Did you fab the replacement panel? If so, did you roll the cab corner vertically and then cut and fit to roll the bottom and weld it up? Nice job by the way.
No - that was purchased. One thing to keep in mind is that when I did this for a living there were never any special fab tools in any body shop I worked at. All patches were cut from scrap panels, slapped on, ground clean, knocked down and filled. Nothing fancy. So.... I guess the lesson is that you don't ever have to worry about making the patch perfect - just the filler.
I would think so - they make a filler specifically for that but $. I use body filler and it works fine (small cracks and imperfections). If it's huge, I just replace it.
You may want to try self tappers instead of rivets. Then just back them out. There is really no reason to cut the opening so closely to the panel dimension. I've tried both and the finished panel seems stronger with more of an overlap, unless the fitment over the overlap is really a pain. No matter what, I think everyone that ties what he's showing here will like it if they try it. I'll have to try JB Weld myself. I had been using that pricey panel bonding epoxy. Thanks for the video!
@@johnp82 You don't encase the heads of the screws. Self tappers are tapered, so they'll come out pretty easy. There will be holes, but you're going to need filler for the seam anyway.
I don't know how well the JB Weld will hold up over time, but you should've used an pneumatic flange tool to ensure the panels aligned up. Had you used that tool, you wouldn't need to perform any major body work such as pounding down the edge.
I'm going to do an update video on this truck. I'll try to remember to alert you when I upload it. It's still holding up great to this day - it's my daily driver - two winters now with this repair.
I'm using this method to install a small patch panel to the rocker of a Miata. I am using small screws to hold the panel in place. After the JB weld has fully cured would it be acceptable to grind off the screw heads or should I attempt to remove them all? I really appreciate all your videos and excellent advice.
You can grind them right off. Tap the seam down just a bit - maybe .030". Ask more ?s if needed - this panel is still good today - Pastor of the church bought it - put new trans in it and really loves the truck. I'll be doing another follow up vid on it soon - for now though - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gIS1Tbv7Kvw.html
I have never done slip on rockers but if you're gluing metal to metal, I would say yes. You could also try 3M panel bond but that's a bit more $. Jerry
I'm want to try this. Slightly different. I'm thinking if I flange the repair panel to go behind the existing metal. Sand the inside of the body panel and jb weld the inset flange. I'm hoping this creates a small channel to fill rather than having to blend the whole patch. I'm terrible at Bondo work on large patches. Great video. Have you seen any delamination over time or is this a more permanent fix? I've learned so much from watching your videos. I honestly can't believe it's free! Thank you.
You're welcome. Works great but make sure your flange is at least 1" wide. Here's the video on the longevity - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wRl1QfkrBeY.html - In this vid I cover all repairs done on this truck. Thanks again for you support. Let me know how it goes if you try it :)
I have a crimping tool to mesh panels together and their is no need to pound the panels down. They are called a "KUNTEC Straight Type Pneumatic Punch Flange Tool 5mm Hole for Plastic Metal Drilling Punching Folding"
Since that is not a full frame car I would MIG weld it. If you don't plan on welding it I would go with the SEM and rivets. If you do use JB let me know - that would be interesting if it worked for you - keep me updated :)
@@LakesideAutobody I didn't think to mention it, but it actually it to be my street/strip car with welded in subframe connectors, a narrowed rear frame and a 12 point roll cage.
@@troymecey I see - then in my opinion you would be fine with either - I do think the SEM would actually be cheaper - not sure though how many packages of JB you will need :)
I'm glad you asked :) Here's a follow up video on all the repairs. I'll do another in a few years - I plan on keeping it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gIS1Tbv7Kvw.html
What kind of filler do you typically use? What kind did you use with this project? I’ve only ever used “bondo” from the department store but now days there are so many choices!
Got a idea,when you were trying to find screw holes,maybe strip of masking tape above repair, with arrows written on pointing to were holes are,hope you understand what I'm saying
Glad to hear it. Myself, I think using JB or panel adhesive on floor boards is better than weld because it seals the seam. I once glued in a whole B250 Dodge Van floor with self tapping metal roof screws and panel adhesive and it worked great - no leaks, no worries about rust in the seam, easy. Let me know how your project goes :)
Other manufacturers make two-part epoxy adhesives very similar to JB Weld. I have successfully used LePage PL9000 construction adhesive, which is much cheaper than epoxies. Construction adhesive set up time is at least 24 hours.
In 2010 we had a hailstorm, and I know I put on more than 15 roof skins using at least one tube of 3M 8115 on each skin. That's at least 750 bucks! I'm glad I wasn't paying the material bill, although I basically made a year-and-half pay that year.
Wow - that's a lot of work - that's makin' some $. I just found out the Boeing glues and rivets commercial jets together w/ epoxy so it's a legit method of repair.
@@LakesideAutobody trust me when I say the steel will tear long before the bond of 8115 would break. It's like the old Super Glue ad where they picked up an elephant, except the 8115 could pick up an elephant with a Boeing 747 strapped to him
