Hi Jason, I am new to woodworking and my first “inside” project is a cupboard and this was a perfect instruction. You have a very simple and easy to understand style. Thanks a lot
1/32nd of an inch is about 0.8 mm and there are about 25mm per inch (you're not one of the engineers that made that Mars lander that blew up are you?). But on the other hand, metric math is easier and most plywood is actually metric thicknesses.
@@mikeking7470 Actually, I AM an aerospace engineer. Because we work with multiple countries and every other country uses metric, then yes we all use metric. and yea 1/32 is smaller than 1mm but if something needs to be more precise than mm, we could use micrometers (microns) or nano-meters. and since everything is Base 10 you don't need to remember any crazy conversions like imperial would have. 1000μm (microns) is 1mm. need to be more precise than that for some odd reason? 1,000,000nm (nanometers) is 1mm
Thanks, lots of good little tips. I find the "Opening" to be a very misleading description, but maybe that's an industry standard term, seems like it should be "overall width" or something along those lines. The only other thing is I'd be interested when you actually install the face frame how you locate it, since you can't reference an edge due to the overhang. It's obviously important since you later mention the spacing being intended for a plywood spacer for drawer slides.
Jeremy Specce there are industry standards. This is more of a overview to help people with little to no experience understand certain aspects. Thanks! 👍🏻
Could the inside edge of the face frame not be made flush with the cabinet inside wall negating the need for the packing piece for the drawer slides to sit on?
Rodger Quinn There are a couple options. You could just build it without a face frame or you can get these L brackets that they sell that will go on the back of the drawer slide and connect to the back of the cabinet
Yeah I've saw those rear brackets. They're quite good as they allow the rear of the slides to float laterally. Found these as well for the front www.rockler.com/inset-mounting-brackets-for-undermount-slides
I would like to know what to do with raw edges on cabinet ends. I'm trying to figure out what to do with corners. My husband started kitchen cabinets, never to be finished, and I need to see what I can do to finish them without starting all over. I have materials,hardware, etc. He didn't build them correctly i.e. didn't build a carcass. Only sides, bottom s and tops. I think I can make backs with my 1/4" plywood,but need doors, drawers, fixing raw edges. Mind you these cabinets are already in use, have been for 20 something years...partial face frames added to the begining cabinets in 2011....maybe Someday I can finish!
Do you always build the face frame after the cabinet is built? I've seen others build the face frame first. Not sure if one way is better than the other. Also, I've seen others use pocket screws to mount the face frame to the cabinet. Are a few pin nails and glue sturdy enough?
Dan Quilty personally I like to build them after. Kreg stews will work for attaching the frame as wel. The pin nails are just to hold it till I get clamps on it. Glue is definitely strong enough
There is a trick floating around where you blast Brad nails into the corners of the carcass, cut them in half so you have essentially tiny nails sticking out of the front carcass, glue the carcass front and you can then attach the face frame to the front and softly hammer the frame to attach to the nails to hold in place.
Great video! Thanks! one quick question. To attache the drawer slide spacers, do you just glue and screw? Glue and pin? or pocket hole? What is best? Thanks ahead of time
I have watched the video three times. You use the "outside to outside" plus 12 mm to get a measurement for your rails. I don't see where you subtract the width of the stiles from the length of your rails to reflect the "inside to inside" of the stiles. I am 68. I grew up using imperial and remarkably stubborn about using metric, despite how easy it is to use metric. I always believe that anyone that expends the time and effort to post a video should not be hated upon. Particularly the jackasses that give you grief over the "scale" of the cabinet. I have built cabinets of that size to fit in a small space. Good on you for the video.
@@bentswoodworking So if this were a wall cabinet a face frame top overhang would be normal ??..... I'm from New Zealand and face frames on cabinets are not commonplace here.
You could and you couldn’t. Typically upper cabinets are going to have some sort of molding at the top. Extending the face frames allows wood to attach the molding too while maintaining even reveal on the face frame.
The reason I do not like face frames it seems to be a waste of interior space for the drawers. You’ve lost 36 mm of drawer width. The European style cabinet making with no face frame seem more efficient. I’m also a fan and user of Festool’s LR32 Drilling System and system 32mm cabinet building.
Why would any professional want to stick to an old system with imprecise measure? And deal with fractions? most people aren't measuring grain anymore, your system needs to go
I love the channel, but you are losing me with metric. I know of no one in the states over 30 who uses metric. It’s just not what we grew up on. I’m an engineer so I’m completely capable I just don’t see the point of changing. What made you switch?
Cotton Mouth. Because it’s soooo much easier for non-engineers to add/subtract millimeters than to figure out what 1 15/64” plus 5/16” is. Thus, it reduces chance of errors - greatly in my case.
I'm also an engineer and I don't believe you being one is why you're capable of the metric system lol. real numbers added togeter isn't hard to understand. What's 5+6? too hard?
It’s the internet. Ignore the negative comments. You can’t waste time on those people. Ignore them. You’re making great videos that a lot of people will appreciate. Don’t let the negativity of a few ruin it for you. Life is too short.
Nice work on the video its too bad that people gave you negative feedback on the actual size on a demo. Cabinet I'm a big fan of RU-vid and the positive impact they can have on modern society but unfortunately it does appear many channels do get criticized incorrectly by people that cant think for themselves IMO i hope you take that with a grain of salt i have over 20 years experience working in the Architectual Woodworking industry. And our bread and butter was building and installing custom Cabinets in addition to other custom millwork and trim in the Washington DC area and ive seen nothing but quality work and advice from your channel so far in the videos i have watched
Craig Monteforte thank you so much for the kind words. I greatly appreciate it. I don’t worry about the negativity. It bothered me at first but now it doesn’t. I’m just here to help, and I know you can’t please everyone.
Jason, I have been a woodworking hobbyist for many years and I watch a bunch of videos just to pick up a tip here or there. You sir do an excellent job at making these videos. Thank you very much for your efforts.
I like the metric discussion as I am in the US and Imperial is King, though most of the rest of the world uses metric. I have used Imperial in my previous projects but am looking forward to using metric for small projects to get more familiar with metric.
The mm was confusing me but after second watch I’m catching up. Thank you for this, I’m getting ready to make my first cabinet box and I lack the confidence which you’re explanation has been really helpful, thank you 🙏 well
The best video series I have seen on everything you need to know about making and installing cabinets. Thank you Jason for your quality videos and easy to understand instructions.
I genuinely cannot believe you have to explain the cabinet is a small scale version for the purposes of a demo!! Thanks for a great, informative video. Don't worry about a small minority of peanuts
Excellent video, I particularly like your diagrams and explanations of how to design and calculate the dimensions needed. One thing that concerns me is just gluing the face frame - even with clamps, it seems like inconsistency between the face frame and plywood edges could use a little help. Considering the use of pocket screws already, why not a few in the cabinet sides and into the face frame?
Most people don't know, but if you properly apply a good wood glue the bond it creates is stronger than the wood in most cases. When you tear apart two pieces of wood that's been glued together you actually just end up tearing off wood fibers from one of the two pieces before you ever break the glue bond.
@@MillerJustinFS Agreed, if we are talking about gluing one edge or face to another. But in this case if my cabinet is plywood and I'm essentially joining the face frame to a butt joint, I'm not so sure (though probably plenty strong enough in this case).
Penalty Box Woodshop I have found metric to be both easier and more accurate. Don’t worry about all of you imperial stuff, like woodpeckers, I haven’t found it to be an inconvenience cause I don’t use them to measure. Just other things like checking square, drawing straight lines etc. just buy a dual tape measure from fast cap and you will be good. We can discuss it more next Friday 👍🏻
I think everything first attempted should be done in miniature, including building a dry stone wall. Even framing out a doghouse. Good way to make mistakes and learn for the real thing.
Just found your channel. Im Binge watching like it like its game of thrones. I appreciate your non flashy presentation style and the no - horse shit click baity extra long vid for no reason - vids are extremely helpful. Cheers mate
These videos set the standard for how instructional videos should be made. I’m not sure how I found your channel but thankful I did. I truly appreciate your making and posting these excellent videos. Thank you.
To say that I just enjoy your vids (I’m not on the Instagram) would be a great understatement. I’ve actually gained the knowledge that has given me confidence to make my own base cabinets for my dream workshop. Face frame + cabinet. I can do this. Perhaps even some drawers to top it off. My little contractor table saw is going to be pretty busy.
Thanks for the amazing video. I have a quick question. Can I replace my old style trim of my cabinet doors to new style shakar trip. My kitchen cabinet doors are faced frame Thanks
Nice video but i have a question when you puting the face frame on couldn't you make it flush with the inside part as to not waist space where you put the piece of bord to make it flush to add the draw slides.i hope someone answer me because i am about to make this and i would really love to know if this is possible thanks in advance
You could yes but then your face frame would stick out on the sides. You can also buy brackets that attach to the back of the slide and then the bracket attaches to the rear of the cabinet. The front of the slide then attaches to the face frame.
@@bentswoodworking I was wondering the same thing as AnnMarie and I'm not sure what you mean that the face frame would stick out on the sides. If we make the vertical pieces 24mm wide, allowing for a 18mm plywood and a 6mm outside overhang, why won't the "inside" of the face frame be flush with the inside surface of the cabinet side? Actually, I'm following your cabinet series closely because I want to build a couple of cabinets to go under my workbench, one on each end. In which case, I really want me face frame to be 18mm wide to be flush on to both the inside and outside of cabinet (at which point it's really just edge banding, I guess.)
Never understood the logic of having overhang on the outer edge. Just mill the material flush to begin with saves additional work later if flushing up after the fact.
When was the last time you had a set of blueprints with the dimensions in centimeters or millimeters? I've been in construction for over 4o years and I've never seen it. I guess he wants the world to know how intellectual he is.
Whats the benefit of the faceframe almost every American carpenter is using? Don't you loose space for the drawers inside, faceframe overhang. European cabinets are without fraceframe eg. IKEA. Great video as always 💪
If the face frame was built flush with the inside of the cabinet wall, the downside might be that you will be hoping that the wall of the cabinet is true and does not waver from top to bottom therore frame and cabinet wall align perfectly. Also, if you cut the face frame to essentially the width of your cabinet wall thickness plus give it the 6mm overhang as this guy did, then the face frame would look not as robust. I wondered the same question as you did though.
Thanks for this video and all the other useful information you post! I have a unique situation I hope you might have a suggestion for. I have a bathroom vanity that runs from one wall to another. Space between is 58 1/4 inches. So I cannot buy a premade vanity. I thought about building a complete vanity from scratch. But I’m thinking if possible maybe I could just replace the face frame in the existing carcass. The current one has one large cabinet door, two small ones, and only 2 draws. I would like to update it to 3 drawers on each side and one middle cabinet door. Any suggestion on replacing the existing face frame with the new layout? I can’t seem to find any videos on this. I would really appreciate any advice on my situation? Thanks!
I think it could be done but you would need to likely remove the top and build out the interior in place. Also, drawers on the sides could be problematic but to the sinks. Hard to say without seeing it.
I know it's too late. But, I am just wondering how I could figure out if I combine four separated cabinets horizontally but want to make one big front face. Setting aside overhang, if the width of vertical dividers are the same, the opening of the far sides become smaller? Do I make myself understood?
Jason, dubstep hurt ears. Good series though! Do frameless and especially edge banding and what it does / doesn't do for measuring (and when in the process you would edgeband)
Awesome video! It's sad you had to explain the reasoning behind the "not to scale" cabinet assembly. I'm the other dumb, I was thinking you must be a giant.....HAHA!
Ho Bent....Thank you for giving woodworking lover a nicely explained video. I am going through many wood utubers but I like the which are tutorials, yours are one of them. I keep u on high regards for enhancing our ineterst. Pl keep on posting tutorial, I will keep on liking and sharing it. Regards, Syed
Hello Bent Carpentry, I want to thank you for giving the option of measurements in the metric system by not understanding the language, it helps me understand your videos, thank you greetings from Argentina.
I was just wondering about the top to be fitted to the cabinet. Do you make the face frame taller so that the top rail hides the front of the plywood top?
Hi, I've got a kitchen cabinet that was designed to hold a microwave oven. The opening is 22 inches wide. We just bought a new microwave oven but it is 24 inches wide. Although the opening to the cabinet is 22 inches, the cavity is 26 inches wide. Therefore to make it fit I need to remove a portion of the face frame on each side. I don't have any woodworking skills so I would like to know how I can saw off a portion of each side of the face frame. Thank you.
I found the fact you only use glue to hold the face frames very interesting. I am fairly new to woodworking and I did exactly as you did for the two face frame style cabinets I have built (glue, pin nails, clamps). My friend with ~30 years of working in cabinet shops seemed to think only relying on the glue was a bad idea, which in turn has made me concerned for the longevity of to two cabinets I have made. The oldest one is just over 2 years old now and both are holding up with no signs of failure so I am curious if you have ever had problems with glue failure / face frame separation using this method? I am planing on building the cabinets for my kitchen remodel so thanks for sharing you methods!
So far I have not. I usually use dominos for face frames but I know not everyone has a domino. I believe the one I did in the video was glue and pocket holes as well
@@bentswoodworking In this video you only showed using the glue and pin nails. A domino is not an option for me, pocket holes and/or dowels would be my best bet. I would need to make something to test how practical dowels would be for attaching face frames. I would be interested to see how you would cover the side of the cabinet if one end of that cabinet was exposed as a show face. I have seen people just use high grade plywood for the cabinet construction so that it is the show face and I have seen raised panels used. I am not sure what other options there are and how you would meet the face frame for a clean joint.
Lloyd Simmons I thought you were referring to the construction of the face frame in which I did use pocket holes. But now I see you’re talking about attaching the actual face frame to the cabinet carcass. Are used glue and paint nails because I don’t feel anything else is necessary. I did say that I would use clamps to hold it in place until the glue dried and the pin nails are use simply to stop it from shifting while I am trying to get it in clamps. As for an expose side it would just be painted or stained
