Key points that need to be a part of this process: 1) Be sure that printer colour management is turned off. If you don't do this, the printer will use a manufacturer's profile appropriate for the paper/printer. Since the new profile you are creating now is meant to REPLACE that profile, you want it to be disabled. 2) The printed pages need to dry for some time before scanning. at least half an hour; 24 hours if you have the patience. 3) WIth a properly calibrated monitor, the process should match the printed colours to the monitor colours as exactly as can be achieved given the differences between monitor and printer colour gamuts. Although soft proofing may be helpful to some, the aim of printer calibration is not so much to make soft proofing work better. It is to minimize the difference between monitor and printer images to such an extent that you will likely have no need for soft proofing.
Most help-videos show the spyder-print spectro being moved horizontally during reading the print targets (patches) in strip reader mode. It is much easier to move it vertically (up-down). The page has to be oriented properly with the datacolor logo in the right upper corner. This is how the device help documentation suggests! Give it a try, folks! That little wing on the guide serves a very useful purpose which makes taping the patch-sheet unnecessary. Helps to have a few white blank sheets below the page with the patches being read, too!
How should the printer be set up before printing the test sheet? There seem (in windows at least) to be plenty of options concerning quality, ICM or printer managed etc. Or does the software take care of all that for you?
Hi, great video! thanks for sharing. I do have a question: after the calibration, the color between the printer and what we see on the screen is the same now. But the screen itself...does it need to be calibrated too? Otherwise the color on the screen is off too?
Hi! I have already done the advanced calibration and printed the example image of the Spyder Print program and the colors are correct (also have the spyder pro for the monitor), I've also printed on Photoshop and have no problem, but when I want to print from Lightroom the colors are not the correct ones, any clues? Profile from spyder print, checkSame paper option calibrated, checkICM OFF, checkThe program I use for my photo is lightroomHope you can help me!
metals The paper you print the test patches on must be the same paper you intend to print on. The calibration process must be performed for every ink/printer/paper combination you use. This also means that if you use different brands of paper with the same finish (for example, two different Epson mattes or an Epson matte and a Moab matte), they all must have their own calibration performed. The reason for this is that even papers with the same finish have different white points and inking levels.
Before SpyderPrint 4 (upgraded to 5.2) I had only used the now defunct Monaco EZColor system which relied in the reading of an IT8 target via a (optimally calibrated) scanner. Mine came bundled with an Epson scanner and served me well until it was orphaned by the parent company. It was completely straightforward in use. Recently, I started having problems matching printers to inks to papers and nfell for the brand I knew for monitor calibration: Datacolor. I'm completely apalled! The softwre is quirky, the instructions quirky and the hardware quality "oriental" (bear in mind the EZColor didn't require but your desktop scanner). It helped me refine some OEM combos that didn't require much science; however, throw in a hardball like a set of 3d party inks and unique papers and the system will fall on its face. Furthermore, it crashes! Adding insult to injury, the hardware is ill designed and requires on "training" the user ( Nero, fetch!). I'll check if it's covered by the 30 day satisfaction warranty...
Nope, 3 years later, there is still none. Only Windows inside VirtualBox; not a downright bad solution after all as you don't have to make the profiles too often.
Do heavy matte canvas papers cause any problems when using the print calibration portion of the package? I am considering this solution after being screwed over by X-Rite Pulse ColorElite discontinuing their product and then wanting $900 to upgrade less than 16 months after spending $1500.00 with them. I had some issues with the Pulse ColorElite with thicker canvas. Not sure if it was incident of reflection issues or the calibration system? Thank you in advance.
***** Hi Duncan, I have heard back from Datacolor and they have asked this Could you first find out what the printer is and if there is a RIP driving it (if so which one) or if it’s just a straight print e.g. from Photoshop
I am using the Canon iPF8100 & IPF9100 series printers and there is no RIP technically. I am primarily using either the Canon 16-bit export directly from Photoshop or I am using QIMAGE for batch oriented jobs. Both rely on the native Canon printer driver and not a RIP.
UGH!!! I ordered the full kit yesterday from Amazon based on your prompt feedback and I thought I would take a shot in the dark so to speak. Is there a way I can get a credit voucher from the company if I show them our correspondence? I can provide proof of purchase from Amazon Prime (I'm a member). If not, it will set me back a week or two but I can return the kit to Amazon and order from your link. Getting Datacolor to offer a discount to my order would be far less painfull.. :-) Any help on that would be great. I am also a 1989 graduate of Brooks Institute of Photography and qualify for many student/teacher discounts as I do provide remote education services for them on a fairly regular basis and have an email account and educator credentials from Brooks.
