Hey ATBOY! You dont miss a part. The item that you talked about at 6:30 just should be built different. The part with teeth should be between those two rings.
Nice work, thank you for the help. I’m out in the garage on a cold night, enjoying a beer…cleaning my Record 10 rear derailleur. Disassembled and your video helped me to reassemble properly.
Excellent video - super helpful in me servicing my 18yr old Chorus derailleur which had seized pivot for the jockey cage. Now working perfectly, good for another 18 years :-)
Thanks for the video. And thanks Brain for the expert comments. I turned the spring 180 D, also get the screw in without any tension on the spring. Also remove the small tension screw on the side completely till the end of the assembly process. Now it sits well with no gap or play. On Campy’s spare parts diagram, there is a part number for the washer RD-RE009. For reference, I have a 2007 Record RD with “RECORD Titanium” printed on the Carbon front plate and front plate of the cage is also carbon.
I’ve rebuilt dozens of the Campy 9 & 10 speed rear derailleurs. About one in ten are finicky when reassembling the P pivot and there appears to be slop (or a space) which results in the cage having some play. What I do is to reassemble the P pivot without applying tension to the spring. Tighten the P pivot bolt completely and ensure there is no slop. Without spring tension it is easy to feel the P pivot is properly seated. Then unscrew the P pivot bolt just enough so the cage can get around the cage stop. Push the cage to the seated position and retighted the P Pivot bolt.
Thanks for the input, I’ve tried all this. The pivot bolt can no longer be tightened. I’ve figured out the issue…while servicing a XTR M900 that also has a pivot bolt that bolts down the cage plate, I notice some slop. Same issue. What’s actually happened, through usage, the bolt has simply grinded down the aluminium cage creating a space. This could be rectified using a very thin washer. Silly I didn’t think of this before.
While all the parts get disassembled, you can sand off any imperfections of the carbon cage plate and carbon front plate. Be careful on the original print letters. Then re-spray 5-7 times of clear coat. You will have a like new RD then.
Also, there can be a slight difference in the diameter of the P pivot spring. Try flipping the spring 180* and installing using the opposite end of the spring.
I also put a lot of Park Tool HPG-1 High Performance Grease with the 2 internal springs just as I did with Shimano pedals to provide good seal from water and debris.
@3:59 the aluminum "stop" for that spring has snapped off on my der. body (!) Garbage! Great video, tho thanks. Guess the 'gap' on yours is not a missing part but usual wear, as discussed below ? Anyway, Give me '70's Campy any day, this new stuff is just a trail of tears for me, I also had a spring bust on my rear brakes. Drat!
The gap is because there's not enough tension on the long spring, and the plate where the adjustment screw locates could be the wrong way, can't remember which way it goes but once I sorted mine for the hole that the spring locates in and proper tension there was no gap.
I rebuilt my derailleur just as you did. Definitely no missing parts, because I now have the same issue you do.... Let me know if you find the cause of the problem and how you solved it....
@@atboy4342 I must be honest, I didn't check. It was functioning perfectly beforehand, just needed a deep clean. I took the whole thing apart , cleaned and re-assembled, without any parts left over. So I'm 100 percent sure, you are not missing anything. Maybe its designed that way, or corrected by spring tension? I'm not sure. I'll keep looking into it too and let you know if I uncover anything.
