Hey David thank you for posting this video, I am using it to fix my Westpoint thingy. One remark though, the pressure sensor should rather be referred as a pressure actuator which opens the gas inlet as well as moves the lever on the micro switch to start the igniter (the small electronic box). The sensor on the outlet is for the display of the temperature not for the pressure. The other sensor near the heat exchanger is to prevent over temperature, what I have read from the Internet is that this one which sends a temperature signal to the micro controller to cut the gas supply by closing the gas solenoid, if it exceeds 65 degrees centigrade. It seems the first design of these things was from Rinnai, correct me if I am wrong.
I had one of these things on a food truck. The relay decided not to work so no propane coming thru. I raised the voltage to 4.5 (an extra battery) then eventually got rid of the batteries altogether buying a dc to dc converter to go from my 12v bank to 4.5v supplying power for this thing. Other than that it was great.
How do you do you convert the batteries to a power supply? I have one I bought a year ago and just set it up. It worked for a week but now it won't work unless I open the battery lid and close it again.
Mine is vented to the outside to the outside. I only use it for showering inside my camper. Co2 monitor raises to 10-12ppm after about 1 min of use. I then open the side windows to add extra ventilation. Touch wood, I haven’t been killed yet.
As some one who survived acute severe carbon monoxide poisoning I can tell you no, you just feel the most incredible tiredness you can imagine, you desperately need to sleep, luckily training said some thing odd go to fresh air now, and that where I was found 2h later, collapsed at the door face looking out, where just by good fortune it was winter and cold air saved my life, This was a logging camp shower house, in a home you may just go to bed and whelp that's it. Only way to know is to have a quality functioning CO detector! (In case any one was wondering how it happened: Some self described genius used a natural gas water heater on Propane (they made a co generator) Natural gas uses a larger orifice then propane so it was insanely over fuelled)
@@DavidMcLuckie ty so am I, but it left its mark, some brain damage to the motor cortex, it is well hidden, just means got to move slower for fine coordination tasks. The after effects are the worst, insane migraine, super dry throat, and a thirst that is nye imaginable! the last thing I can remember was the need to get to fresh air, after that some one hitting me trying to wake me up, then the after effects. Moral of the story, Learn what one is doing, and buy an Fing CO detector! It can and will save your life.
I'm guessing you will need a reasonably good pump to ensure it works correctly. I wonder if one of those cheap whale ones would do the job? I've got one supplying my sink in the van and it's bloody impressive for a wee £11 submersible pump...would be an interesting test though!! Regards Mick
@@DavidMcLuckie I had the one I have running off a Shurflo 7 L/Min 20 Psi 12V no problem! I bought the Heater from Ebay (Latvia) for £52 a couple of years ago. Tested and ran Great! Plan to attach to a back door on my Transit Custom, as you suggested.. The battery power is it's weak point I agree, a 3-5 volt Step Down is a great idea! 👍
So a gas stove in a rv is ok but a hot water heater is danderous , id like to see a carbon monoxide test please,,,,,,,show how much comes off a stove with an oven and this heater , i bet you get 0 on both ,,,, the main issue is it eats oxygen,,,, if you have a window cracked this is fine indoors , also you could vent it as well , but hey go shower outside ,i prefer the privacy of my camper ....
I completely agree. And if I were to make this video again now, that's what I would say. But at the time it was easier to not deal with the backlash of CO death comments by making a big thing of only running it outdoors.
Oh wow, thanks for this video. I'm just about to start taking the casing off mine and see if I can work out why it's not igniting anymore. I've had it a week. It had been going great but one or two occasions it didn't fire. Yesterday.... Nothing. I troubleshot the inlet, outlet, batteries and gas... All fine. Looking forward to your stress test video now, but my glamping guest can't wait weeks for a shower 😬 I'm going to have to get onto the company!
Been using these for a couple of years, only problem I have had was leaving it in the rain with no weather cover 50mm hour rain for 4 hours kills just about anything . Just changed it with a spare unit I had problems solved . Cheap and reliable
I've bought 5 of those type of units, all different Chinese makes, and all have the same problem: too hot. I've put in-line pumps on their respective water inlet pipes, and still they're waaaay too hot. They're all rated for LPG (not natural gas) and I feed 'em LPG. I welcome any informed suggestions on how to get my HW-on-demand units to work well. Years ago, I resided in Asia and installed a half dozen similar units, and they all worked fine. Over here in the USA, they don't work for me. Do they have flow-restrictors built in? I'm miffed.
Id like to see someone do a test in a rv ,,,,,,run your stove and see how much carbon monoxide it puts in your rv and run this hot water heater and do same test ,,,here is my issue with all you worry warts ,,,,,do you accually think this water heater will kill you if you use it indoors ? If so why doesn't your PROPANE STOVE KILL YOU THEN ? Im sure three burners running on a propane stove put out more carbon monoxide then one water heater ....what takes more time ? Cooking dinner or taking a quick shower hmmmmm did you ever hear of someone dieing from cooking in a rv ?...........ya fear mongering safty pushing worry warts that do no testing always seem to know it all ..........do some true tests if you want to convince people its dangerous to use indoors , the manufacturer says this to save them from fire lawsuits not carbon monoxide , please someone direct me to an article where someone has died useing one of these indoors ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,oh there isnt one hmmmmm in a world full of morons there has to be at least one case ,,,,,,,no ,,,,,,oh must be true , its on the interweb .......
Hi, we have one of these for our glamping shepherd hut. It’s been great up til yesterday, when turning the hot water on inside the hut( boiler is in a sealed metal cupboard outside) the boiler ignites for maybe a second then it goes out. Sparker keeps trying to reignite but it won’t. Any ideas? Phil
We have the same well 2 of them on our camping showers. I’ve seen them heat to over 70 degrees. They seem very difficult to keep to a set temp. If you have the gas low it doesn’t seem to keep the fermo couple hot enough to keep lit.
Assuming I ever get it back, we could see how much of this camper van stuff we could jam on the Landcruiser. Then overland up the campsies and shit in a bucket.
the 25k info on the label means it can heat the water 25 degrees ( on the one i've played with said it was measured in Celsius) above the input temp of the water on minimum gas setting and minimum water flow. different unit/model to the one you have the one i've seen can go as low as 5L per minute
Hi David, thanks for making this great video. Very helpful to understand how the thing actually works. I'm having a trouble with mine. Temp does not get higher than 30ºC even with max gas min water flow. Gas supply is fine. Just put in a new regulator. Any idea what it could be? I'm off grid and using mine with a 12v 4A pump that runs on a car battery. Curious to hear what you think. Thanks
I ended up having to remove the plunger off the solenoid for the propain because its the cheapest POS solenoid they could find from China. I know it's dangerous, but i only use it outside. Also, i used a usb cable and a cellphone charger to power it.
Thanks mate, my water heater just all of a sudden wouldn't light, you can hear the igniter sparking it just won't light, I'm in the process of trying to find out why the gas won't come through, but when I find out I'll you and others know what the problem was. Thanks for the vid it was very informative. Seeya Rob.
I have one of these too; great little heater. It lives in its own sealed room at the back of the van with a flue, ample ventilation and a CO detector, just in case.
@@codepuncher Sorry, but I don't remember the exact measurements, but it's something like there has to be a minimum length of flue between the boiler and the exhaust (so you get a good enough draft to pull out the fumes - this varies from boiler to boiler, I think mine was something like 2-3 feet), also also a minimum distance between the bottom of the exhaust and the roof itself (presumably so you don't burn your paint, mine was around 5 inches), also the exhaust has to be a minimum distance from any open-able windows, doors or other air inlets, so you don't accidentally let fumes into your van. If in doubt, it may be better to pay a gas fitter to do the work, at least that way it's all legit, and there's a lower risk of you accidentally gassing yourself or your loved ones.
This reminds me of those cylindrical hot water geysers people used to have sat over their sinks with that long tap sticking out the side, and also in bathrooms of many decades ago where people used them in a very much sealed room and ended up permenantly "falling asleep" in the bath due to CO poisoning, thank goodness for the balanced flue we have today... :S
@@DavidMcLuckie Yep, there was a programme called "Hidden Killers of the Post-War Home" where they loosely described how people died from bathing in a bathroom full of CO from those gas heaters (which at the time used Town Gas, derived from roasting coal), a very sad way to go... :(
@@DavidMcLuckie Pretty much, it was mostly comprised of various gases, including carbon monoxide, hence the old "head in the oven" ways out people took, you get much the same from making charcoal too (aptly named Wood Gas), especially if you capture the gas for useful purposes, but it's nasty stuff, so best only used outdoors too...
What you called a thermocouple is probably a flame rectification electrode, it sends a very low AC voltage to the electrode and through the flame. the flame rectifies that to DC and returns it via the burner that the control box will see and confirms its alight, if no flame nothing can pass to the burner and it would go to lockout. Much quicker and more reliable than a thermocouple and cannot be bypassed.
Hello!! From Arizona USA. I have the same model Camplux heater as this one. I’m reassembling it after repairing the copper pipe which busted after a severe freeze. Regarding the reattachment of the cover wires to the unit wires. Which go where?? On the cover we have one set which is a blue & black combo and another one yellow and black. On the unit there is one blue and blue and another one which is blue, yellow and black. What attaches to where. Any help would be appreciated. 7:55
I think I make a concealed thin steel box with a (outside) air in and double insulated outlet a bit like combi boilers work. Guess it’s like you say as well, your not using it while sleeping. I see a lot of people yelling about the dangers and carbon monoxide and what not while at the same time they are using a gas hob and oven.
How about using this to heat the water in an inflatable hottub? The 2kw heater in the lazyspa is expensive to run and very slow to bring to temperature. Thoughts?
@@DavidMcLuckie Indeed. To keep the tub at 40 deg c costs approx £10 per day. To bring to temp from say 20 deg can take approx 24 hours. Its a 2kw inline heater in the hottub unit. Holds 800litres.
I was looking at 12 volt RV direction ignition furnace parts/systems. I want to make a direct ignition automatic thermostatic radiant propane heater that is portable running off a small lpg tank and small battery. It looks like the cheapest way to get a 12 volt control/ignition system is to buy one of these and take the parts from and it and mash it up with a buddy heater type head.
I have one like this and a forced air unit they are made by Marey . the draft one needs 4' of stack to draft correctly. I would not use in a truck or trailer. mine is in a shed to go with a washer and drier , works good. i have not changed the batteries in a year. i have the forced air unit in a travel trailer and love it
love this, thakyou soooooo much!!!! so helpfull for my troubleshooting! Incidently...... I actually have one in my camper - for a year or 2 - been working fine - properly flued and all that (removed the fan from the flue as i didnt want to build a rocket engine!) - got a M02 alarm right next to it for safety which has worked in the past - now the water heater is not working (so after fiking about with water input etc and pressure (as I thought this might be the issue) - still cant get it to initiate its sparking mechanism... still investigating.... very helpful! will investigate ignition system with my multimeter...... any thoughts? yes the battery are a big joke, snapped off the same battery clips! but hey - it cost me around 110 quid when i got it - my version is a little different - has a winter/summer knob.... they all pretty much the same from what ive seen..... thanks again buddy!
Im planning on building an "apartment" inside a 19/26 ton boxtruck, with 2000L of water (and grayewater) and everything you'd find inside the modern apartment. I've been thinking of using something like this for my hot water needs. You've given me all the info I need. Gonna put it in a box with a sprinkler inside, just incase
@@jamesemery1 oh thanks I had not considered the blatantly obvious aspect. Surely there are more specific details to the matter. That's a lot of space to sacrifice when many people get along well with vastly less and only needing to empty/fill every couple weeks. Is it a desire to maintain "comfortable" habits which may consume more water? Perhaps remote travel which precludes regular stops? Maybe multiple people living in it? Many reasons may be present beyond just "I'm lazy bro" which would be worth consideration by others. And maybe that's all it is, but it may not be.
@@MastaSquidge maybe the vehicle is static and just used to get around planning permission with the "apartment" being on a movable vehicle so exempt to many planning laws dependent on the country, what ever the reason it doesn't affect anyone but him
Hi! Thanks for this video. I very stupidly installed one with an on/off switch on the shower head. I turned it all on but they shower head was ‘off’ so the water pressure (being tankless) just exploded the unit and water came out everywhere. I since bought a replacement and learned my lesson. My question is, with the old one is there a specific part I could replace or adjust to fix the damage caused so that it works again? The one I have is identical to the one you have. Any advice would be amazing 😁
I think that'll depend on what actually failed. If it's the heat exchanger it's pretty much done, but if it's one of the bolt on parts it might be salvageable.
@@DavidMcLuckie I’ve since managed to find it! It burst one of the ‘c shape’ connectors at the top where the pipe weaved in and out. So looks like I need to replace that. Thanks for replying!
I have the same unit and was really pleased with my Camplux water heater until it started rusting…the exterior paint/ powder coating bubbles and then cracks and peels after a few weeks of usage. The shower head becomes yellow after time too.Pretty gutted really it’s not even 2 yrs old
@@DavidMcLuckie very true David!! They are a great item, I may email Camplux and ask them about the coating- it says on the instructions in simple terms (do not let it get rain on it!) My point being they expect you to mount it outside due to CO2 and heat emissions but it’s NOT weatherproof 😂
The gas burning sounds just like a gas oven or more like the sound of a gas burner in a gas dryer.. Its not loud st all.. Aa mentioned the water makes more noise.. So as loud as the loudest noise your running water can make.. Thats what you'll hear.
Hi there, I have a 8L per minute portable hot shower unit similar to this, with a 8lpm 12 volt water pump and it's got hardly any flow out shower head.Its about a year old and worked fine. Could it be blocked inside or have air pocket somehow? Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Run vinegar thru water heater for 1hour. You can turn heat off. Use pump and recirculate in bucket. I do mine monthly. Calcium builds up from hard water. Also use water filter before the heater. Helps.
I have a 6 litre per minute unit, similar to that one, that has a switch on the bottom. It doesn't have a place to attach a chimney pipe, just a plate to deflect the heat so it doesn't burn a hole in your ceiling. There is a sticker on the front that says "ventilate room when in use". Works well and cost only $60 US.
I got a similar of ebay and i found it was not hot enough for what i wanted so i added copper cpu heat sinks to the inside of it to capture more heat before going to the heat exchanger and added some more insulation works great now, use as and emergency heating for my solar hot water.
