Good job Paul lots of hours on that one !. Wise move swapping the modules over and repositioning battery. Tidy job as per usual. Your winning on this job. 😃
You could always contact My Mate Vince on his RU-vid channel. He has an old Rolls Royce that he's worked on and is also a bit of an electrical whizz around circuit PCBs and other things.
That board looks like a handy enough repair. Most of the traces are left to solder fresh wire back in. The traces just need to be cleaned and tinned up. Electronic solder flux would help the solder stick and flow much better after it's cleaned. Someone like My Mate Vince could probably do a decent job of it. Neutralising the acid is probably a good idea, else it can return.
I admire your solution methods AND your can-do attitude. It's heartening to see people who don't just give up! Mahalo for an excellent diagnosis and repair video. Meanwhile, you can better enjoy driving your car whilst trying to find (newer and better?) solutions for your passenger-side memory seat. Aloha!
Good vid. Exactly the same setup and module on the Range Rover Classic SE and LSE 1988 to 1994. on my LSE, I just hardwired my switches to the motors, bypassed the box completely. Mirrors don't work (project for another day) but well happy having working seats.
Another excellent episode 👏 I can highly recommend Bowling Engineering in Bolton for fixing ECU's. They are well known in RR circles and have a solid reputation. They've helped and fixed ECUs on my 1996 Bentley Brooklands (so pretty much the same as your RR).
Found that fascinating Paul but you gone way beyond my skill level. Full credit to you. Look forward to seeing what happens to get passenger seat going now.
I enjoy the Rolls Royce content personally I think the car was a bargain. The introduction to the videos always makes me laugh as the presenter reminds me of an axe murderer 😁
I took a look at mine, they're refurbished units from Flying Spares, and several damaged traces have been replaced with copper wire - including several that run on the topside under IC2. Logically that'd be a prime location for damage, you'd expect that capillary action would draw the leaking electrolyte under the IC. Only fixable if you desolder IC2.
you can carefully clean the corrosion from the board with white vinegar on a small paintbrush, and check the continuity of any damaged tracks then flush the damaged area with electrical cleaning spray.The fault on this circuit board will be fairly simple, it is unlikely than any major component has failed. Check the tops of the electrolytic capacitors for any signs of leakage or bulging, and replace any that look dodgy. First port of call for old board repair is to replace ALL the capacitors! get a 12v power supply rigged up and test each relay. Good luck with it! Phil "Phil Whitley, My week this week" on RU-vid
I would not test the relays with any external supply unless they were removed from the board. You would potentially risk damage to the relay driver chips with either incorrect polarity or voltage spikes from the relay coils (the chips I'm referring to are those two chips near the relays made by Toshiba). Chances are the relays are fine and there's perhaps still some hidden damage from the battery leakage affecting either the microcontroller chip (that big one with two rows of staggered pins) or some other part of the circuit . If I was local, I'd offer my services (I've had 44 years in electronics) but I'm relatively far away. However, I'm sure someone could help Paul out.
Hi Paul, great video as always. Just out of interest there is a company based in Cannock, Staffordshire called ACT Drivetrain that can remanufacture various ECU's for most cars. I've never used them, but they do get good reviews on line. They may be able to assist. Especially if Introcar or Flying Spares can't. There's always EBay too, if there's a good 2nd hand one on there!!.
The RR seal on that module, came off Tutankhamen's Tomb? That's what the gang said, as the seal was broken... "That's the warranty gone" after nearly 3000 years... there was a bit of a whiff.... 🤦 But 'Who dares, wins...' 🙂👍
This probably won't help but nothing ventured....I watched Alex from "Legit Street Cars" revive some of the modules out of his Alpina BMW 7 Series which was really informative.
You could do worse than contacting "My Mate Vince" whom has just completed a Rolls Royce restoration, he's a whiz with circuit boards etc and might be able to bring your board back to life.
I would replace that power transistor first. The device with a hole at top and three legs near the battery. It helps to use a desolder station so you don't damage the tracks and pads.
I'd replace a part like that only if you know that it's faulty. Swapping out components is not a good way to fix older hardware, especially when the damage is most likely only to the PCB.
Hi Paul, if you want to send the module to me, I can try and sort it for you (I am an electronics engineer). Likely that the chemicals from the battery has caused conductivity on the PCB which is upsetting the switching/logic levels, as well as possibly rotting tracks under the ICs etc. Let me know. Mark
I dont know whether your aware but you can run the part numbers off the various chips on the web, and you will even get data sheets never mind an ID! The long black IC chips are Toxhiba TD62003 AP which is a 7 channel Darlingtom pair inductive load driver for the relays you see. A relay coil is an inductive load and requires type of component. You may have one of these affected by the corrosion and may wish to try desoldering and fitting a new one which yiou be able to get from Premier Farnell or RS Online A second hand module could be in the same condition as the one you have. A specialist repairer may be expensive, but you may get a fixed quote of somebody.
I'm not sure where this geezer is located. But I could quite easily repair the fault on that PCB for him, as I have all the electronics test gear, plus 10 years experience being an ex TV repair/electronics engineer. I'm located in East Yorkshire. I even use to repair those MG Montego/Maestro Digital display dash boards for one of my local garages back in the day.
@@life_on_cars Okay cheers no problem, my initial prognosis being that the mineral content from that leaked memory battery will have induced a low resistance or partial short circuit across the pins of that 16pin DIL IC, which is a darlington sync driver device. But if that has become damaged, it may have also damaged some further active discreet components connected to it in either series or parallel. If you get stuck, then please give me a shout on here, & I'll do whatever I can to assist with this.
@@life_on_cars There is another straight forward process of elimination you could also try. This being to gently warm up the PCB with a hair drier in situ in the car, (with the cover removed) with the ignition turned on & ready to go, then see if all the functions begin to work once the PCB has been warmed up. The reason for this is something known as ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) which occurs when the electrolytic capacitors break down with age. If functions are found to be restored upon warming up the PCB, then replacement of all the electrolytic capacitors should complete a successful repair.
@@life_on_cars Additionally if you are feeling confident to try, (not a lot to loose if you are careful) would be to replace the 16 pin Darlington IC. Is best to desolder each pin carefully using desoldering braid with some soldering flux, & then gently ease it out of the PCB holes applying further heat, if it still appears to be stuck down at any particular pins, once the pins are desoldered. Also be aware of the orientation of the 16pin device, as you will notice it has a delve in the middle at one end of the device, which denotes pin 1. So make sure you fit the new one the same way round. But if you have an ohms meter, firstly check the resister near to the 16 pin DIL, circuit ref R19, which should read 4.7 ohms, as that may have gone OC (open circuit) or high resistance. Hope this bit of further info may assist you.
100mAh is only a lower capacity battery. They're both 3.6 volts, and the higher capacity would simply keep the settings backed up in the memory for longer.
Hi Paul, I have just repaired both my seat ECU's for my 1990 bentley eight , I am an electronics engineer and have tools to repair the board, contact me and well see what we can do
Don’t scrape the tracks!!!!!!!! Isopropyl wash with a stiff brush, then if the tracks are broken just bridge them, but don’t scrape!!!!!!!!! Urgggggggggh!
find youtuber 'My Mate Vince' he's also an electronics engineer that repaired his seat ECu's and there is a video series on his Rolls covering the repair
